How an annual wellness trip turned into a treasure hunt for antiques and stories
Hungary: The Trip That Became a Tradition
Hungary had never been part of the plan — until it quietly became a tradition. What began years ago as a spontaneous detour turned into an annual pilgrimage, the kind of journey we kept returning to because it nourished something quiet and essential in us. Each visit revealed a new delight: a hilltop castle discovered at sunset, a vineyard pouring wine as the lake turned silver, a centuries-old thermal bath sending up steam into the cold morning air.
Yet the moments that lingered longest were always the accidents — the discoveries that happened when we stopped trying to find something and simply allowed ourselves to arrive. One of those serendipitous turns led us to Hévíz — pronounced Hey-veez — a small spa town in western Hungary where thermal waters warmed the bones, time unraveled gracefully, and hidden treasures waited for anyone willing to wander.
Hévíz: A Thermal Lake Like No Other
The town is famous for the Hévíz Lake Bath, a thermal lake which is really a vast pool of mineral-rich water fed by a natural spring deep underground. Locals claim the water heals joints and nerves; swimmers say it heals the spirit. People travel from across Hungary, and from the rest of Europe, just to float beneath its rising steam and watch lilies glide across the surface.
It is said to be the largest biologically active natural thermal lake in the world, and that alone was reason enough for us to make the journey. We came to bathe in the healing waters and experience what it felt like to swim in a lake that never cools, even in winter.
A Detour We Didn’t Expect
On our first morning, just after breakfast, our guide paused with a casual suggestion.
“There’s a Saturday market before the lake,” she said. “Would you like to stop by?”
We didn’t even try to hide our enthusiasm. Of course we did.
Discover La Esperanza Granada — a private hacienda available for exclusive villa buy-outs, weddings, and retreats
(This is where we retreat when we need beauty, privacy, and uninterrupted inspiration.)
The Weekend Market of Hévíz
A small parking lot, a world of hidden stories.
The market took place in an ordinary parking lot — a space you might overlook if you didn’t know what was waiting. But the moment we stepped in, the atmosphere shifted. Pickup trucks and vans were parked in neat rows, their back doors swung open like stage curtains as sellers began arranging their wares.
Tables appeared like magic, covered with porcelain teacups, silver spoons, pocket watches, embroidered linens, and lace tablecloths. Every item looked as though it carried someone’s wedding, childhood, or memory within it. For two people who love antiques, this felt like a heartbeat-quickening surprise.
Flea Markets in Hungary: A Local Ritual
Weekend markets are a hobby for many Hungarians. Every Saturday, across towns and villages, locals spill into open squares to browse and bargain while sipping coffee from paper cups. Some come to search for treasures. Others simply come to talk, to wander, and to feel connected.
Hungary takes flea markets seriously. And after this trip, so do we.
Treasure Hunting Between the Tables
Porcelain. Silver. Stories whispered in objects.
Some sellers were professionals who could recite the history of porcelain factories from memory. Others were hobbyists clearing out their homes, hoping that someone else might fall in love with the things they no longer needed.
One table displayed porcelain planter boxes — creamy white, with delicate painted flowers. I wanted them desperately. But they were too big to bring home, so I admired them from a respectful distance, reminding myself that longing can be part of the pleasure.
Fortunately, something else appeared — something smaller, but irresistible.
The Candy Dish That Almost Got Away
At another stall, a glass candy dish caught the morning light. The color was deep amber, like brandy swirling in a crystal glass. I picked it up, and the seller watched me with a knowing smile.
The first price was 15,000 forint.
A quiet negotiation dance began — small numbers whispered back and forth, friendly but firm. We settled on 10,000 forint, a price that felt fair to both of us.
Just as I agreed, another woman appeared beside me. “Are you buying that?” she asked. “Because if not, I will.”
She looked ready to pay the original price.
I smiled, held the dish a little closer, and said, “Yes. I’m buying it.”
That settled it.
A Souvenir With a Soul
Some memories don’t fit in a suitcase. This one did.
The candy dish sits in my living room now, catching the afternoon light just as it did that morning in Hévíz. I could have brought home something predictable — a postcard, a fridge magnet, something mass-produced and forgettable.
Instead, I carried back a piece of someone else’s history, something that had lived another life before mine. A souvenir with a story. A reminder that the best discoveries are the ones we never planned.
What You Must Do in Hévíz
- Float in the warm lake.
- Let the steam rise around your face.
- And if it’s a Saturday — wander the market.
Because in Hungary, treasure appears when you least expect it.
