The waterfront of Cape Town

Over two weeks in South Africa, we literally ate in the best restaurants in the country. We also had the pleasure of meeting top chefs and having many talented chefs personally cook meals for us.

Every single meal we had was enjoyable, interesting and delicious as we journeyed across the country, from Johannesburg and Sabi Sabi in the North all the way down to the Cape Town area.

Interestingly, when I was asked about my two favorite lunches during our trip, off the top of my head I thought of two of the unlikeliest choices. This doesn’t mean I didn’t like the fancy meals, as I so enjoyed them all.

Cape Town’s best steakhouse

But in about ten seconds I answered that my two favorite meals were a club sandwich at a semi-fastfood joint at Johannesburg’s domestic airport, while killing time and waiting for our flight to Cape Town; and a very spontaneous run-in into a steakhouse restaurant along the waterfront of Cape Town after a morning of sightseeing.

We’d found ourselves one day in the waterfront area of Cape Town after spending the morning at Robbens Island, visiting the maximum security prison where Nelson Mandela, Jacob Zuma and a host of African National Committee (ANC) leaders were once held.

It was just after lunch when we reached the mainland, and instead of returning to our hotel for lunch, we’d decided to do the very touristy thing and look for a decent restaurant along the waterfront.

There are many nice restaurants in this area, I’m sure; but we hadn’t done our homework, and many of them did look like tourist traps — the kind that serve barely edible seafood to clients they know will never be back for seconds because they’re only in Cape Town for two days.

This isn’t one of the tourist traps, but it sure made a nice photo

I had in my mind to have some fish as well, because we were by the waterfront, and to get in some oysters if I could. Simply because I love oysters.

The menu!

But then we passed a rather formal-looking restaurant — or at least it looked more formal than the others so far — named Belthazar’s, making us both automatically think it was a play on the name of the famous New York brasserie. There was probably no significance to the name at all, but that’s what made us think about having lunch here.

Actually, it was I who was more enthusiastic, as I’d passed their restaurant store front and read signs everywhere saying they were the best steakhouse in Cape Town. The signs were posted by them, of course, but it certainly made everything look more convincing.

Freshly-baked bread was served with soft butter and a tomato paste

They also had a serious biltong bar (biltong is the local equivalent of beef jerky), a heavy duty aging room for steaks, and one of the most impressive wine dispenser counters I’ve seen for a restaurant of this size and stature. It certainly didn’t seem to be your typical tourist trap.

Then the clincher was the fact that they had dry aged beef — and I order this whenever and wherever I can, simply because it’s so hard to find except in certain cities in the world.

I had in mind the great and super tasty dry aged beef I used to fly 14+ hours and spend two weeks in New York for, in another lifetime when I had more time and energy for long flights at a drop of a hat.

In New York, I used to always order a big steak and eat half, and then bring the remaining half back to my hotel.

The New York Palace was “home” then, and my suite had a kitchen and a proper dining room. And my idea of bliss was to cook garlic fried rice and refry the leftover steak in just a little fat, and have this for breakfast the next morning at the hotel.

I did this with almost every steak I ordered in New York — no fail. And I don’t go to New York a lot anymore, but I always order dry aged steak whenever I find it on the menu somewhere in the world, hoping to replicate those juicy steaks I used to have in Manhattan. So far, not so good.

Very creamed spinach to accompany our meal

Anyway, back to our very nice lunch at the waterfront in Cape Town.

Our waitress recommended a nice avocado and shrimp starter, and then we shared a 500 gram T-Bone steak that was dry aged, as a main, with creamed spinach and fries.

Again, it was really I who wanted to have this dry aged beef and this was the only cut they had for dry aged beef, unfortunately, and it was just too big for one person to order.

The Boss was nice enough to agree to share this T-Bone steak with me even if he doesn’t really like T-Bone cuts — and perhaps this kindness is why I have such a nice memory of this lunch.

Our dry aged T-Bone steak to share…

Everything was good and I liked my steak especially with the red wine sauce that came with it.

And for dessert, they had an immensely good sticky toffee pudding, which is something we both love. We had this with cream and it really made my day. Again, sticky toffee pudding is just one of those desserts that are so hard to get right in our part of the world.

Absolutely delicious sticky toffee pudding…

Taste-wise, so many other lunches we had were far better. But for some reason, it’s my memory of this lunch that made it so enjoyable for me — and this went beyond dissecting the taste of the food.

And perhaps the best part was yet to come. We stumbled upon a crafts store after lunch that sold prized zebra skins, and so far at a price lower than any we had come across so far. We hadn’t really had much time to shop in our rather crazy schedule, so it was a stroke of luck to find this store.

Coincidentally, they had two zebra skins of roughly the same size and quality, and for exactly the same price. These weren’t cheap, but they weren’t crazy expensive either. So we each bought one as a memory of our two weeks in beautiful South Africa.

And perhaps it’s also a memory of my favorite lunch.

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Last weekend in Cape Town, living a TRAVELIFE, we decided to take a food hamper up Table Mountain at sunset for a little picnic while watching what is supposed to be one of the most gorgeous sunsets in the world.

Seeing the sunset from the top of Table Mountain has long been on my bucket list and I really wanted to be on top of the mountain at this very time, as everyone who has been to Cape Town has told me not to miss the sunset from Table Mountain.

I took this from the car from below the next day. But from the top of Table Mountain, you can see this mountain range in full glory.

Then The Boss had a very nice idea to order a food hamper from our hotel, the Mount Nelson, which is Cape Town’s most historic and famous hotel, and take it up Table Mountain. Luckily, the hotel could prepare a picnic basket with no problems.

They even had a proper menu from which you could order all kinds of easy-to-eat food for your picnic basket.

I guess many of the guests at the Mount Nelson — affectionately called The Nellie by the locals — like ordering picnic hampers for drives or even for boat rides as the hotel has all the paraphernalia for a fancy picnic.

I don’t know if any guest from Mount Nelson so far has brought up a picnic hamper to Table Mountain, but it’s hard to believe that no one else has done so, as it’s such a good idea.

The view of Cape Town from the top of Table Mountain

But the hotel driver who drove us from the Mount Nelson to the Table Mountain cable car terminal, you see, took one look at our picnic hamper when we got into the car and complimented The Boss on his great idea.

Then, as we made our way through Cape Town’s winding roads and up the mountain, the driver said: “I’ve never seen guests bring a picnic hamper up Table Mountain before.“

Well, if we were the first ones to do this, I can certainly recommend this as a Travelife way of enjoying Table Mountain’s sunset. It was so nice to find a spot to see the sunset and to have some food to enjoy the view with.

That’s our favorite Mount Nelson concierge, handing over our picnic basket to take up Table Mountain.

We’d ordered all the sandwiches on the picnic hamper menu for a traditional English afternoon tea — the Mount Nelson is famous for its afternoon tea — and a delicious Greek salad besides. The sandwiches included smoked salmon, cucumber and cream cheese, and chicken sandwiches.

The picnic hamper itself was beautiful — just like the old-fashioned picnic hampers that English people once brought along for a day of sitting by the Thames River, for example.

And when we opened the hamper on a bench, we certainly attracted a lot of attention.

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A South African lady even came over to inspect the picnic hamper closely. She said: “I’ve never seen anything so beautiful.” Indeed, everything was immaculate and so prettily prepared.

Then she asked us: “Where did you get this beautiful picnic basket?”

There were some people sitting around Table Mountain with bags of food as well, but no one had anything close to our beautiful picnic basket.

We answered: “From the Mount Nelson.“

The very grand Mount Nelson Hotel in Cape Town

That seemed to answer everything, as far as the lady was concerned.

“Oh the Mount Nelson,” she exclaimed. “Of course.”

Then she brought over a couple more people to closely inspect our picnic basket. I was certainly amused at the commotion, although a part of me, of course, wanted to be left to eat in peace.

But we so enjoyed this picnic on Table Mountain, gazing at one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world.

And when we finally got down from the mountain just as the sun had set, we headed straight for the very cozy but lively Planet Bar of the Mount Nelson with plans for a nightcap of champagne and oysters.

A pretty nice way to tick off an item on our bucket list, and just another day in our never-ending, and never-endingly eventful Travelife.

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Champagne cocktails right in the bush after our afternoon safari drive at the Sabi Sabi Game Reserve

The other day, on safari in Sabi Sabi, one of South Africa’s top private game reserves offering one of the best safari luxury experiences in the world, a ranger asked us an interesting question while we were having champagne cocktails out in the wilderness, after an afternoon safari drive.

We’d just driven around the game reserve for about 90 minutes, and in that short span of time, we’d seen an amazing diversity of wild animals including giraffes, rhinos and springbok.

Then, our ranger found a nice spot to park and he and our tracker took out tablecloths, champagne glasses and a bottle of bubbly for a sunset drink right in the wilderness.

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Neil, who was one of our two rangers, during our stay, asked the Boss and myself: “Why did you choose Sabi Sabi?”

I guess what he meant was that, being experienced travelers with a yen for adventure and not very many constraints except time, we could have gone anywhere in the world for a luxury safari experience.

There are a couple of great safari experiences around the world, and Sabi Sabi is definitely one of them.

I answered for us as I had been in charge of choosing the best places to stay in South Africa, while the Boss had been in charge of all domestic logistics, restaurants, and sightseeing.

I replied: “I heard you have great animal sightings and excellent service.“

Our great animal tracking team from Sabi Sabi’s Selati Lodge. We went out everyday at 530 AM and 430 PM for about three hours each time.

I also liked the fact that Sabi Sabi has four different kinds of lodges, catering to all preferences, and each has a specific theme that is carried out beautifully. I stayed in the presidential lodge of the Selati Camp and that was simply an amazing Out of Africa experience.


More on this in a later blog entry.

The Sabi Sabi is part of the Greater Kruger National Park in a land area called the Sabi Sands.

This is where all the great safari lodges in this part of South Africa are, and they’re all next to each other, usually simply marked by a dirt road.

Among the top safari camps in Sabi Sands, there’s quite a bit of competition so jeeps from one safari camp don’t cross over into each other’s territories, and everyone knows where the borders are, even if we guests don’t.

So as long as you’re in Sabi Sands, the playing field is pretty even in terms of animal sightings and the animals you see will be pretty much the same.

It’s all a matter of luck, timing, and the talents of the rangers and trackers.

On the former, a lion may be on one game reserve today, but he may be in the next game reserve tomorrow.

On the latter, the talents and dedication of your ranger and tracker make all the difference in the world.

Here’s a view of Sabi Sabi from the air, by the way…

The Boss and I had two wonderful rangers and two excellent trackers, one pair each for each of the two Sabi Sabi lodges we stayed in.

Neil was our ranger during our stay at the Selati Lodge, Sabi Sabi’s intimate and nostalgic 1920s themed lodge.

He was the one who picked us up from Sabi Sabi’s private airstrip when we flew in on a small charter plane from Johannesburg.

I still remember clearly that mixture of amazement and excitement, and anticipation over a wonderful and new adventure, that I had when we flew in from Johannesburg.

Our pilot took us low and advised us to look out our windows in case we saw rhinos or giraffes running around on the game reserve — and beneath me I saw the vast expanse of beautiful Africa.

That’s our ranger Morah,  and our tracker who accompanied us throughout our stay at Sabi Sabi’s Earth Lodge.

Then Morah was our ranger during our stay at Earth Lodge, Sabi Sabi’s futuristic but environmental-friendly lodge with a wow factor.

She took us back to the airstrip on our last day, for our flight back to Johannesburg. That was done in a ten-seater plane, by the way, and we only had one pilot.

The Boss was worried that the really tiny plane would freak me out as I don’t like small enclosed spaces, but I took out my Mac for the one-hour flight and I was fine for the trip.

We took this pretty cool Pilatus plane from Johannesburg direct to Sabi Sabi’s private airstrip

We were so impressed with our rangers and trackers.

They all love animals with a passion. You can tell if the rangers love what they’re doing or whether they just think it’s a job by the way they keep photos of recent animal sightings on their mobile phones.

You just know you’re in the company of real animal lovers if they’re showing you photos of baby impalahs or colorful birds on their phone.

The table setting at Selati Lodge in Sabi Sabi in South Africa

The rangers, like almost everyone we met in the staff during our stay, paid keen attention to the quirks and preferences of each guest.

And in our case, we stayed at the smaller and more personalized Sabi Sabi lodges so we really got to know our rangers, and they got to know us.

The Boss and I both like Rooibos tea with no sugar or milk for breakfast, for instance, and just about whenever tea is offered; and I think we were only asked once about how we liked our tea, and from then on it was always served the way we liked it — one pot to share, with no milk or sugar.

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Of course, perhaps the most important reason for having excellent, top-notch rangers is the safety factor.


Your life depends on the instincts, discipline and courage of your ranger when you’re out in the bush; and both our rangers were just amazingly dedicated and professional.

A four-course dinner by lamplight at Sabi Sabi’s Selati Lodge

One night at Selati Lodge, for instance, we were all having dinner on the terrace on a long and beautifully set-up table, just like a fancy dinner table.

The Boss and I were seated across Neil — your ranger usually joins you for dinner — and we were having a wonderful meal when suddenly a lion roared in the distance.

Neil immediately ssaid: “Ssshh. Can you hear the lion roar? That’s 300 meters away.”

What a sound it made.

It also made our hearts beat faster as up till then, we were 36 hours into the Sabi Sabi safari experience and we’d already seen the Big 4 plus so much more.

This is very unusual, by the way, and we were extremely lucky. It had been a dry spell for lions recently and two couples from Selati Lodge had gone home without seeing the lion.

But if you know the Boss and I, we both don’t stop at just “okay.”

We wanted to see the Big 5 — and we wanted to see the lion.

Neil quietly got up from dinner.

Then while we were enjoying simple but lovely dishes like duck confit and steak, he’d jumped on his jeep and headed straight out into the darkness and the cold to hunt down that lion.

Dinner at Selati Lodge of Sabi Sabi

The Boss and I saw the headlights of his jeep in the distance, from the dining table.

I said to The Boss: “Look at Neil. He didn’t have to do this. He could have said, ‘Right. We’re having dinner, but let’s try and wake up early to see that lion tomorrow.”

Instead Neil came back, all flushed and excited.

He said to us: “If you’d like to see that lion, we can do so so now after the main course and you can have your dessert afterwards.”

We’re big on dessert, and on that menu that night was Malva pudding, a local specialty that had been on the wishlist of The Boss ever since David Higgs, one of South Africa’s top chefs and right at the helm of the new restaurant Five Hundred in Johannesburg, had served us malva pudding topped with foie gras for dinner in Johannesburg, a few days before our safari.

The Boss then said: “Let’s have our malva pudding before going out to see the lion.”

Yeah. Of course the lion would be willing to wait for us outside while we had dessert.

I replied: “Are we on safari to eat malva pudding or to see a lion?“

That’s a photo of our tracker and Neil at the wheel, and we’re seated at the back of the jeep. And we’re racing after a lion in the dark!

That kind of put things into perspective for him.

So we jumped into the jeep, bundled up, and had a good half hour up close and personal with a beautiful lion.

If Neil hadn’t been so dedicated — I’m sure he’d had a very long day and was dead tired ––  we might not have seen the lion at all during our Sabi Sabi stay.

Selati Lodge of Sabi Sabi in South Africa

Needless to say, the Boss and I returned to Selati Lodge feeling on top of the world. We were so happy.

What an exhilarating feeling it is to have completed seeing all the wild animals on your wish-list, in their natural habitat.

The Boss then said to me: “I can now understand why some people get addicted to the safari experience.”

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Wow. This was a terribly big statement from a guy who almost never ever admits to being floored by anything. 

But, of course, he’s on a Travelife so that makes all the difference in the world. Indeed, no one travels quite like us. Or writes like us. And that’s why we’re always going to be #1.

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On Saturday morning, we landed very early in Johannesburg on a flight from Hong Kong. Everything was smooth and seamless, as a TRAVELIFE usually is.

Our friendly driver from the Westcliff Hotel, Johannesburg’s iconic and well-loved hotel, was at the arrivals lounge with a big sign bearing the name of The Boss.

Within minutes we were in the car, on the highway and proceeding towards the Westcliff via some of the most beautiful neighborhoods in Johannesburg.

When we got to the Westcliff, our rooms were ready and so we took a golf cart to Building #2, which is one of the highest buildings on the Westcliff estate and with a beautiful view.

The Westcliff has long been Johannesburg’s grand dame of a hotel, famous for its picturesque surroundings and for its very palatial environment. All the rooms are housed in pink buildings on this hilly estate, and you need a golf cart to get around because it’s so large.

But that just adds to its charm, as it’s like entering a very special world, even when you’re just going from the reception building to your room.

I loved my corner suite which had windows opening on all sides, and a large terrace with tables and a view that I spent too little time in, as we also wanted to see as much of Johannesburg as possible.

But when I first entered my suite, I flung open the terrace doors and went outside to take in the view of greenery and blooming jacaranda trees.

Wow, I told myself. I’m finally in South Africa.

Inside, my suite was decorated in a very classic style, with comfortable furnishings and the kind of details and lovely touches that the Orient Express Hotels group is famous for, the world over.

I had lovely flowers in my room and all kinds of original organic African toiletries in the bathroom. Everything was carefully thought over.

The television, for example, was hidden inside a console cabinet where I could place my books and my gadgets in the daytime. And just before sleeping, if I wanted to watch TV, all I had to do was push a button and the console would rise and the TV would appear magically in front of my bed.

That very day, after a full eight hours or so of going all over Johannesburg, The Boss and I had champagne by the infinity pool at sunset with the hotel general manager.


What a lovely place this is to pass the sunset hour as you can see the sky turn orange and pink in front of you, while you are surrounded by greenery and peace.

I was completely captivated by this, and it was very enjoyable to sit here talking over glasses and glasses of champagne.
I don’t know why but we’ve been in South Africa for just over 56 hours now – less than three days, really – but already it’s felt like a month.

I’m sure The Boss will say this is because of the company, as he’s been feeding me with interesting information about life in the bush ever since we set foot here.

From him, I’ve learned the most useful information that I’m sure will be very handy for life in Manila: like what to do in case you bump into a raging elephant, how not to stand between a hippo and the water, and which side of a zebra to stand next to.

I asked him a couple of times: “Where on earth do you get all this information?”

Then I teased him: “Did you buy some safari handbook and read up on it before the trip, just to impress me?”

We were both in South Africa for the first time, after all. And on safari at the Sabi Sabi, one of the top game reserves and safari experiences in South Africa and in the world, for the very first time as well.

With his usual confidence about everything in the world, he replied: “Stock knowledge. Intuitive information 101.“

Not in my world. So I replied: “Obviously we went to different schools.” No need to tell you which school was better.

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But anyway, The Boss does sound so convincing about his Safari 101 knowledge, that earlier a ranger overhearing our conversation in the jeep actually asked him how many times he’d been on safari since he seemed to know everything already.

No need to tell you what happened after that. Of course, The Boss gave me a big I-told-you-so look.

By the way, I’ve lost track of how many glasses of champagne we’ve had, but I’m certain we’ve had a lot. And if I think about all that awaits us in the Cape Town area as well next week, I’m so sure that this is just an inkling of things to come.

Is it me wanting champagne on our pretty amazing trip around South Africa? Or do South Africans just enjoy champagne so much and we’re just going along for the ride?

We’ve started and ended every evening so far with champagne. We had champagne after our hot-air balloon ride as well. And even on safari, in the middle of absolutely nowhere, we’re having champagne at sunset every single day. But of course, we’re at the luxurious Sabi Sabi, so here champagne at sunset is almost de rigeur.

Either way, I’m not complaining. It’s certainly a fantastic way to end every day in a never-endingly, and never-endingly eventful Travelife.

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Last September, at over 20,000 feet up in the air, somewhere between Bahrain and Jordan, living a TRAVELIFE, our upcoming trip to South Africa was in the stages of being confirmed.

Yes, it was a real Travelife in every sense of the word.

I was on board Gulf Air and they had WiFi in the air, and so I was  exchanging emails with this friend coming along with me to South Africa, who was in Manila — and who I’ll simply refer to from now on as The Boss.

Anyway, I remember that The Boss and I had been exchanging emails from up in the air, when another email suddenly popped up in my In Box from Cape Town, confirming a lunch invitation for us with the managing director of one of South Africa’s most prestigious and lovely vineyards.

The Boss and I had divided the trip planning, you see, according to our respective specialties and interests – hotels and vineyards for me; and restaurants, sightseeing and all domestic logistics for him.

Not sure if domestic logistics is really up his alley, but I’d sent this over to his corner anyway.

And this vineyard was on my assignment list as I was the one who wanted to visit this beautiful winery. Now I could call it a day.

So I sent The Boss a message from the airplane last September: “Now that everything’s been confirmed, should we turn this trip over to our assistants so they can coordinate with each other about the remaining pesky details?”

I meant visas, airline tickets, and other matters outside of the itinerary, and they all know each other anyway.

The itinerary had been the fun part of the planning — but that was basically done.

The Boss thought this was a good idea too, as neither of us has enough hours in a day to be filling up forms. We’d decided all the important stuff – a.k.a. the fun stuff — already.

We’re both Type A personalities but so far I think we’ve had great teamwork for this trip.

Maybe because we both run our own companies, we’d attacked this South Africa project in a very efficient management way and with a “shared docs” kind of system.

Pretty seamless joint planning.

And although we have quite different likes in terms of food and things to do, we both appreciate best-of-breed experiences so there’s synergy here in wanting to experience the best of South Africa – whatever that is.

As far as I can remember, we didn’t have problems with any part of the trip decision-making at all, even if we’re both used to being The Boss. He seemed content to leave me to iron my stuff out and I was happy to let him worry about his part of the trip.

Still not sure about that small charter plane with only 20 kgs of soft luggage to Kruger National Park, though; but he’s already booked the tickets so I guess there’s nothing I can do but downsize my luggage.

Then today, in Manila again living a TRAVELIFE, we were on BBM exchanging last-minute details about our trip.

It was the first time we’d discussed the details again in a while.

I’d messaged him: “Send me your inputs and I’ll get them into the final itinerary. My side of the trip is done. Complete. Finished. Perfect.” I’d even placed a smiley face after this BBM for emphasis.

He answered back: “I’ll add my inputs when I receive the latest completed, finished, perfect schedule.”

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Then I remembered something.

There was actually one change that I’d forgotten to mention. We’re having dinner by ourselves almost every night except for one evening, when I’d arranged for us to have a meal with two industry contacts. I hadn’t told him yet about this.

To explain this dinner for four, I’d said: “Anyhow, I figure we’ll be tired of talking to each other for eight hours by then.”

Our schedule that day, you see, involves about eight hours of sightseeing, which he’d planned and arranged entirely on his own. And then this was going to be followed by this dinner for four that I’d arranged in one of South Africa’s fanciest restaurants.

And then I mischievously added: “Or at least I’ll be tired of you.“

Again, I ended this with a smiley face so he would know I was half-joking.

Not one to back down from a challenge either, The Boss had retorted: “I may tire of you in eight minutes. So be careful.”

I should’ve stopped there, but I just couldn’t help myself. It was the perfect opportunity to give him a “Gotcha.”

I sweetly replied: “I’ll be careful.”

Then I sent him the punch: “By the way, I got tired of you about eight months ago, so at least there’s no downside for you, going forward. Just so you know.”

And then I added a smiley face again, just in case he assumed I was joking.

It certainly looks like it’s going to be an interesting Travelife of a trip…

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