During my last trip, I stayed at La Esperanza Granada, a boutique estate renowned for its elegance and intimate atmosphere. My junior suite featured a spacious terrace, charming blue and white interiors, and breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains—an unforgettable experience for any traveler seeking luxury in the heart of Andalusia.

In the Heart of the Lecrin Valley

Entering through the gates of the estate felt like stepping into a dream. Surrounded by verdant hills and ancient olive trees, the setting is nothing short of enchanting. Known as the “Valley of Happiness,” the Lecrin Valley is celebrated for its lush landscapes, mild climate, and vibrant wildflowers, making it a serene yet dynamic destination.

The estate’s prime location offers easy access to the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains, the cultural treasures of Granada, and the stunning Costa Tropical. Whether you’re seeking adventure or tranquility, this picturesque region has something for everyone.

La Esperanza Granada is a stunning example of Andalusian architecture, featuring whitewashed walls, terracotta tiles, and elegant arched windows framed by vibrant bougainvillea. Upon arrival, General Manager Napo and his attentive team welcomed me with a chilled glass of lemonade made from fresh lemons picked right in the courtyard—an unforgettable touch of hospitality.

Napo, who has been with La Esperanza Granada since its inception, shared fascinating stories about the hacienda’s creation. These insights added depth to my stay, enhancing my appreciation for its seamless blend of tradition and modern comfort.

La Esperanza Granada: A Luxury Hacienda with a View

I completely fell in love with my junior suite, which exuded authentic Andalusian charm. With tall wooden beams, hand-painted tiles, and thoughtfully designed interiors, it was a perfect blend of elegance and tradition.

Each morning, I sipped coffee on my private terrace, overlooking the valley’s picturesque olive groves. This terrace became my favorite retreat, offering tranquility and stunning views in complete privacy. The suite’s spacious bathroom, featuring a tiled shower and a walk-in closet, added to its luxurious appeal. It truly felt like a retreat within a retreat, with every detail thoughtfully crafted for ultimate comfort and relaxation.

The Natural Beauty of the Lecrin Valley

After breakfast, I explored the hacienda grounds. La Esperanza Granada offers beautifully landscaped gardens, lavender-lined pathways, and a private farm where guests can wander and explore.

Outside the hacienda, the valley’s charm continued. I visited the nearby villages of Saleres, Albunuelas and Melegis. Each one has its own charm, but all had cobbled streets, whitewashed buildings, and tapas bars that offered a taste of local life. In the bars, I met some locals and also some expatriates who had relocated here. They shared stories of their families and traditions, and I began to understand why the Lecrin Valley inspires such love from those who live here.

Pool with a View in Granada

Afternoons at La Esperanza Granada’s infinity pool offered a perfect way to relax. Set against the mountains, the pool overlooked the valley, and I often found myself mesmerized by the scenery. The fragrant air, alive with citrus and lavender, added to the experience. I savored each moment as the warm sun and tranquil surroundings washed over me.

Eating Well in Andalucia

La Esperanza’s dining experience became another highlight of my stay. Each meal felt like a celebration of Andalusian flavors and traditions. One evening, I enjoyed dinner on the terrace, cooked by the private chef and served to me exactly as the sun was setting over the valley.

Dinner began with Spanish tapas: olives, cheeses, and cured meats. This was followed by a savory mille-feuile of cheese, liver pate and figs drizzled with honey. The main course, a black squid ink paella made right in front of me, tasted exquisite. A rich red wine from a nearby winery perfectly complemented the meal.

Reflections on a Luxury Hacienda

Before I realized it, it was time to go. Time had indeed flew by — to use a cliche. As I packed my bags, I felt a deep gratitude for my time at La Esperanza Granada. This estate offers far more than luxurious accommodations; it gives guests a chance to experience Andalusia’s beauty in a most authentic and serene way.

La Esperanza Granada, in the heart of the Lecrin Valley, redefines what it means to escape. I found a true retreat here, where each day offered beauty, tranquility, and inspiration. For those seeking a luxurious, unforgettable experience in Andalusia, La Esperanza Granada opens the door to an experience that stays with you long after you leave. A piece of the Valley of Happiness — which is the meaning of Lecrin in Arabic — lingers, calling you to return.

Read more about the best hotels in Spain

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The idea to purchase a property in Spain came out the blue. It was the height of the COVID pandemic and I was onboard a Japan Airlines flight about to land at Narita Airport in 20 minutes. The virus was ravaging much of Europe and there was no vaccine in sight.

As soon as I reached my home in Tokyo, I went online even before unpacking my bags. I googled “properties for sale in Spain” and made a shortlist of the estates I fancied. I wanted either a beautiful country house or a unique hotel. Luckily, I found a property in the pristine Lecrin Valley in Southern Spain, just 30 minutes from Granada and 90 minutes from Malaga. This easily met these two criteria.

ABOUT THE LECRIN VALLEY

The Lecrin Valley lies amidst some of the most protected lands in the country. It has a strict plot-to-building ratio regulation. However, the former owners somehow received permission to build what is now the largest structure in the entire area.

It sits on a hill amidst five hectares of organic land with the “most beautiful view of Lecrin.” They built a small hotel with a lovely main residence for themselves.

LEAP OF FAITH

Instinctively, I knew that I would never find a similar property elsewhere. My next step then became something of a legend in the luxury hotel industry. Since borders were closed, I bought the property sight unseen. Then, in the first months I renovated most of it remotely via several thousand Whatsapp messages. Today we are a proud member of the L.V.X. Collection of Preferred Hotels and Resorts. We are also now considered one of the best hotels in Granada.

OF LUCK AND MADNESS

But let me backtrack to that fateful day in August 2020 when I purchased the property. I entrusted the transaction to a Granada lawyer I had never met and the official turnover of the keys to Pablo, a Spaniard I’d spoken three sentences to at a cocktail party in Manila a year before.

Pablo came from the region of Asturias, which is 882 kilometers away from Granada at the exact other end of Spain. He made the nine-hour drive on my behalf. which was incredibly lucky for me, as I knew no one else in Granada, or in the entire region of Andalucia for that matter. In purchasing this property on whim, you see, I’d basically thrown a dart on the map of Spain and this was where Fate led me.

This is a crazy story especially with COVID-19 thrown in, but it is exactly what happened. In fact, a journalist from the National Geographic Traveler stayed with us recently and listened wide-eyed to my narrative. She then wrote a glowing review with the title: “A hotel born out of madness.”

HOW TO OPEN A HOTEL

The property itself has good bones and the views and experience of nature here can never be understated. However, the process of transforming a country house starting to show its age into a luxury retreat worthy of belonging to one of the most prestigious hotel groups in the world amidst the pandemic required a succession of miracles. Fortunately, these were never in short supply.

It also needed a huge appetite for risk and the kind of positive mindset that’s practically set in stone – two things deeply embedded in my DNA. As my close friends will confirm, when I set out to do something, I have always jumped right in with gusto, eyes on the goal and with little thought for the downside. The word “impossible” does not exist in my vocabulary.

So one door after another simply opened with ease. My acquaintance Pablo coaxed his best friend Napo to also travel from Asturias to join him, and Napo has not left the property since Day 1. He is now the general manger of La Esperanza Granada.

To be continued.

Read more about the best hotels and resorts in the world in Travelife Magazine

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In the beautiful and ancient town of Santiago de Compostela in Spain, we stayed in the Cardinal Suite of the Hostal dos Reis Catolicos, as it is known in Galician. In Spanish, it is called the Hostal Reyes Catolicos. This is the best hotel in Santiago de Compostela. It is also reportedly one of the oldest hotels in the world.

ABOUT THE HOSTAL DOS REIS CATOLICOS

With its vaulted ceilings and fine antiques, the Hostal dos Reis Catolicos is the most elegant hotel as well. It is one of only two five-star parador in Spain. However, the draw for me is its history and its best location right on the town square next to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

THE PARADORES OF SPAIN

A stay in one of the suites is not cheap, but it is worth every euro. Experiencing this historic hotel, a member of the Paradores of Spain, is one of the highlights of visiting Santiago de Compostela. So, yes, please cut down on your restaurant budget or shopping budget on your holiday in Spain. Save up for a stay at the Hostal Dos Reis Catolicos. You must eat in their fine dining restaurant, too, as it is truly lovely and the food is excellent.

HOSPITAL TURNED PILIGRIM HOTEL

The Hostal Dos Reis Catolicos was once a hospital designed with great fervor and attention to details by Queen Isabela, the Catholic Queen of Spain. She designed the hotel together with her favorite architect. If you like design and aesthetics, this simple and graceful building built in the Galician Renaissance style. Filled with medieval period antiques and art, it will just take your breath away.

Queen Isabela is also known for having conquered the Alhambra and the beautiful city of Granada, by the way.

I just loved walking around this hotel as it’s a maze of interconnected buildings and you never know what you will find at the end of a corridor. In fact, I happily got lost several times in this hotel.

THE INTERIORS OF THE HOSTAL REYES CATOLICOS

The interiors of the Hostal Reyes Catolicos are nothing over the top, in terms of design. The interiors are consistent with the atmosphere of this former hospital turned luxury hotel in this pilgrim town.

Everythings is in very good taste and you feel a peace and calmness simply because of its design. The hotel is full of lovely courtyards. Meanwhile, most of the rooms are designed around the courtyards but they look out onto the city.

Except for the main entrance, the Hostal de los Reyes Catholicos is not open to the public. So I’m posting photos to show you the beauty of simplicity in this ancient must-stay hotel.

It’s a hotel from another time, and it’s been beautifully preserved. I honestly can’t think of anywhere else you should stay on a visit to Santiago de Compostela. The experience of staying at the Hostal dos Reis Catolicos is a must.

ABOUT THE CARDINAL SUITE

Meanwhile, the Cardinal Suite we stayed in is the most extraordinary suite in the city. This suite is known for its interiors and its unique hanging balcony. From the balcony, you can enjoy a lovely view and sunset.

There is no other hotel room in Santiago de Compostela with a hanging winter garden. I loved sitting here because we could see the sunset. It was wonderful for morning coffee before breakfast as well.

Yes, it was all 15th century in the suite but the bathroom was a complete suprise. It was a 21st century makeover with a glassed in power shower set-up for two and a very nice bathtub. I was floored by this high-tech bathroom in this very old-fashioned suite. Talk about a perfect combination of history, luxury, elegance and convenience.

Pope John XXIII was just one of the many VVIP guests who reportedly stayed in this same suite at the Hostal de los Reis Catolicos along with countless other VIPs. So I was half expecting a ghost to appear during our stay in this 500-year-old hotel room. Thankfully it was a perfectly peaceful night and the next day we woke up to another beautiful day in Spain.

Read more about beautiful hotels in Spain in Travelife Magazine.

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One early winter morning, we headed out of the lovely city of Cuenca for a day in the remote countryside. We drove for over two hours along winding country roads to have lunch with truffle hunters in a small hamlet in the interior of Spain. I wanted to find out how Spanish truffle hunters live and what they eat.

Casa Chon is located in one of the most remote areas of Europe with the lowest population density. Here, it’s not unusual to drive for miles without seeing anyone at all.

THE NATIONAL PARKS OF SPAIN

However, the nature here is simply majestic. All around us were beautiful lakes, mountains and forests. The soil is red earth and the waters are a deep hue of blue. Part of the way was completely covered in snow, and this was pretty too.

Fortunately, the temperature heated up slightly from below zero to two degrees by the time we reached our destination. There was no snow in the hamlet and it was surrounded by autumn colors.

HOW TO BUILD A HOME BY HAND

“The truffle hunter and his wife built their home entirely by hand,” my friend Jorge explained about Casa Chon, as we walked around the property, looking at everything. He added: “In fact, they didn’t use a forklift or any kind of building equipment for this.”

I looked at the truffle hunter who stood there in his jogging outfit, smiling proudly about his handmade home. He said: “I lifted everything myself. I did not even use a forklift.” The homes were made from nearby stones, logs and cement.

Then I looked at the structure they had built, wondering how they had done everything by hand. It was two stories tall, and it consisted of several apartments. They use one apartment for themselves and rent out the others to vacationers wishing to enjoy simple country life at Casa Chon.

A TRUFFLE LUNCH AT CASA CHON

The wife prepared lunch for us. It was a six-course meal with truffles used in various ways. Everything was simple and natural but delicious. The table decor too was colourful — perfect for an Instagram photo. In fact, with its effortless styling, it would have put many a smart restaurant in Spain to shame.

Jorge said to me: “It’s very hard to get things here. The nearest supermarket is around 38 kilometres away. So they must learn to make do with what they have.”

Fortunately, the truffle hunters had no shortage of truffles. So we had simple food, but every dish had a mound of truffles on it. In addition, the wife placed a heap of sliced truffles into a bowl of olive oil.

Then she also placed on the table homemade truffle butter and truffle mayonnaise. For the round of next courses, she made an entire plate deviled eggs topped with truffles. She also made thick pumpkin soup flavoured with truffles.

Everything was absolutely delicious. For example, I am not particularly fond of deviled eggs but I found myself eating most of what was on this large blue plate.

I so enjoyed this day out in the countryside of Spain, so far from civilization and yet in the heart of truffle hunting country. I also got to meet real locals who literally live by the toil of their own hands — whether it is building their home or hunting for their food. They forage and plant or harvest everyday, and nature is their life.

Click here for more stories on life in Spain

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To tell you the truth, The One Hotel in Barcelona seems like quite an ordinary building from the outside. It’s just one block away from the famous Paseig de Gracia boulevard, lined with 19th century modernist style mansions and the best of upscale retailers. It’s also minutes away from Casa Batlo and Casa Mila, two of Gaudi’s best known architectural masterpieces.

In contrast to the stylish exterior flair of its neighbors in the Eixample district, The One seems underwhelming at first sight with its plain facade — there are no colorful tiles or wrought iron balconies here — and streamlined entrance. In fact, a business contact who met me in the lobby to take me to dinner asked me the very same question I had asked myself upon arrival: “I know it’s a five star grand luxe hotel. But is it really nice?”

INNER BEAUTY IN A HOTEL

The answer is a definite yes. The One may be understated from the outside, but inside it is all comfort, good design and luxury. My corner junior suite was a haven of light and space, and most importantly, of good taste. I had to force myself to leave my room to go sightseeing because sitting in bed with a good book — there is a coffee table book on Barcelona on the night table — and a view of the city from four windows seemed like an excellent way to spend the day.

A LAYOUT TO TALK ABOUT

The layout of my suite made for a good conversation at dinner too. For a junior suite, the foyer is way more spacious than most, which is wonderful for luxury travelers who arrive with a lot of luggage. However, most interestingly, you open the door and the first thing you see is the vanity table and sink, which are separate from the shower room and the bathroom. It’s part of the foyer and a necessary visual as you walk into the living room area and bedroom.

In one sense, this is perfect and practical because the traveler on holiday does appreciate the extra space that is not usually available in other hotel bathrooms. So I personally liked the idea of it, especially as the sink area is aesthetically pleasing to the eye with gold fixtures, grey marble and a large mirror that further adds depth to the area.

ANATOMY OF A JUNIOR SUITE

Meanwhile, the living room area and bedroom area are among the best I have seen in Barcelona, for a junior suite. The design is all calm neutrals with a sense of airiness and light — it’s the kind of room everyone will like regardless of style preferences. Furthermore, as always, the devil is in the details — to use a cliche. It had two large flat screen televisions, a beautiful artwork as a headboard, and high tech but simple wiring for lights and curtains that didn’t need an hour to figure out.

The latter is more important than you think, too. In spite of practically living in hotel suites for most of the year, and therefore quite used to hotel room wirings and systems, I have still recently encountered rooms with way too many buttons and switches. I can confirm that it is extremely annoying to be ready to sleep and to be unable to turn off the in-room bar light or the mirror light.

BREAKFAST TO REMEMBER

Further brownie points for this hotel relate to breakfast, which again is quite unlike others. Food is served just off the lobby in a rather simple space as far as luxury hotels go. And there is no lavish breakfast buffet either. Instead, guests are seated in this restaurant — and also in the lobby when there is an overflow — and asked to order from a menu. You can order what you want and in any combination, and the menu is quite appetizing and creatively worded so that it’s tempting to order everything.

For every morning of my stay, I chose a typical pan con tomato made ever so perfectly as only Catalans can do. The bread is hollowed out and crusty on the outside, and topped with fresh slices of Jamon iberico, drizzled with olive oil. I did not expect a simple breakfast worthy of being called a feast, but this is exactly what it was. In fact, breakfast was so deliciously addictive that I ordered two heaping plates of these every morning — calories all but forgotten.

There were other items on the breakfast menu too. Standard breakfast fare like yoghurt, fruits, eggs and pastry baskets. However this pan con tomate stole my heart.

Speaking of my heart, I would stay here again in a heartbeat. In fact, we’re already booking some of our Travelife Magazine readers at The One Barcelona for a food trip to the Catalunya in the spring of 2023.

READ MORE ABOUT CATALUNYA IN TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE

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Why Spain for a Golden Visa?

Spain is top of mind for most – if not all – Filipino clients due to the colonial heritage of the Philippines and its intertwined history with Spain. There are several ways to become a Spaniard — you can show evidence of your lineage, marry a Spaniard or legally spend enough time in Spain.

What is a Golden Visa?

However, the Spanish residency-by-investment program (aka Golden Visa) essentially grants a right to legally reside in Spain in exchange for an investment into a property (or properties) worth a minimum of EUR 500,000. 

By extension, a Spanish Golden Visa holder (and all qualifying family members) may opt to work and study in Spain without the need to further secure an additional work or study permits.

The Spanish Golden Visa also offers a certain mobility within other Schengen countries under normal circumstances. Migration and mobility policies do not necessarily apply during the time of COVID19 and other pandemics. 

The Golden Visa is notably popular in the Philippines. It provides a path for Filipinos to obtain citizenship after two years and therefore secure a Spanish passport. However, careful consideration should be given to applicants looking at the Golden Visa as a path to citizenship.

– Samuel Harvey, Director of Business Development

What are the advantages of getting a Golden Visa for Spain, compared to getting one from neighboring Portugal?

The main factors which differentiate the Spanish and Portuguese programs are residency, options for investment and the citizenship path. 

RESIDENCY REQUIREMENTS: SPAIN vs PORTUGAL

Portugal has a residency requirement of roughly a week per year in order to maintain the Golden Visa. Meanwhile Spain doesn’t have a residency requirement. A point for Spain. Click here to contact the Harvey Law Group.

Options for a Golden Visa

Spain in mainly popular for its real estate investment option, whilst Portugal offers multiple investment options for potential investors. A point for Portugal. 

The most popular options among our clients for a Portugal visa include: 

• Minimum investment of EUR 350,000 into an investment fund
• Minimum investment of EUR 350,000 into a qualifying real estate property in need of refurbishment 
• Minimum investment of EUR 500,000 into at least one real estate property
• Commitment of EUR 175,000 into an incubation program under the Start-up Visa program.

Path to Citizenship

Portugal also provides a route to citizenship after five (5) years. On the other hand, for non-colonized countries, Spain is also open for citizenship but only after 10 years. Filipinos and citizens of other countries once colonized by Spain may be able to receive a Spanish passport as early as two years after receiving the first residency visa. 

Once citizenship is secured, according to the latest data from IATA, Spain has a slight advantage regarding its passport strength since it currently provides visa-free access to 188 jurisdictions. Meanwhile Portugal has access to 186 jurisdictions. 

What are the major hurdles for a Golden Visa from Spain?

There is no hurdle in applying for the Golden Visa so to speak. However, there is a note to be made about the misconceptions that several Filipinos have on the differences between what the Golden Visa is, the path to citizenship, and the requirements (and potential impact) of becoming a Spaniard on one’s wealth situation.

The Spanish Golden Visa is fairly straightforward. It has neither residency, language nor test requirements. Renewing this Golden Visa every two to five years is simple and the fees are minimal. As long as the applicant maintains the investment and continues to respect the initial requirements, the Golden Visa can be renewed. Click here to contact the Harvey Law Group.

How do I acquire Spanish citizenship?

The path to citizenship is a different story. To qualify for citizenship in Spain, one must speak Spanish. The applicant must also demonstrate proficiency on Spanish culture and history in Spanish via an examination.

Nationals from non-colonized countries may need to relinquish their former citizenship and application will probably take ten years. Filipinos will need two to three years and they can retain their Filipino citizenship. 

What is the approximate total outlay for a successful Golden Visa from Spain?

There is no ‘one size fits all’ as the total outlay varies depending on the family constitution, as well as the property type and location. If the minimum investment is set at EUR 500,000, the investor should expect to pay an additional EUR 50,000 to 75,000. This is for the various taxes and fees associated with the property.

In addition, there are third party disbursements such as government and application fees, alongside professional legal fees. Total outlay will be a minimum of EUR 575,000 to EUR 600,000. 

How long will the Golden Visa process take?

This varies depending on whether the applicant will (or can) visit Spain or not. Average processing time is between one to four months. I also wish to stress that HLG is still able to process all applications remotely, amidst the current pandemic.

Indeed, all meetings with our counterpart in Spain, the selection and purchase of property, the completion of the Golden Visa application, and even a preselection of schools for their children, can be done remotely and through digital means via our firm.  Click here to contact the Harvey Law Group.

Can everyone apply for a Spanish Golden Visa?

The program is restricted to non-EU/EEA nationals. Also, those with past criminal convictions, unpaid debts to Spanish authorities, and record of illegal entry or stay in Spain cannot apply. Politically Exposed Persons (PEP) also require a thorough and extensive legal assessment.

What happens to the Golden Visa if an investor wants to sell the property?

The Spanish Golden Visa is reliant on the property so an investor cannot sell the property before converting the residency permit into a permanent residency status or citizenship in Spain. Once the investor attains either of those status, he or she may dispose of the property without any impact on their immigrant status in Spain.

Would you recommend the Spanish Golden Visa to your clients?

The Spanish program is popular but all programs have their own set of pros and cons. We base our recommendation on the needs and requirements of applicants. It’s our role as legal advisers to give all information to the applicant, to enable him or her to make an informed decision. 

Why should I choose HLG to help apply for the Spanish Golden Visa? 

Our professional duties are to the client. We have seen many ‘consultants’, ‘advisors’ and other questionable individuals presenting the Golden Visa in Spain as an outright ‘Citizenship-by-Investment Program’ or as an easy process to get citizenship.

This is not a true representation of the program. Hiring a non-professional or failing to consider key factors could result in unfortunate financial losses in addition to a potential immigration ban of up to 10 years. Click here to contact the Harvey Law Group.

“Each client should carefully undertake due diligence on both the investment and the service provider. They should also seek professional opinion on the potential tax exposure in both their current country of residency and in Spain. 

“As a law firm, HLG carries out the necessary due diligence and manages the whole process from start to finish. Our integrity is paramount, and we are prepared to go the extra mile for our clients to make sure the chosen program is the right one for them.” 

Harvey Law Group  (HLG) was founded by Jean-Francois Harvey in 1992. Headquartered in Hong Kong, the firm now has over 20 offices worldwide. It has proven expertise on residency, permanent residency, and citizenship by investment. 

Considered a pioneer in the industry, it has advised countless individuals and families on acquiring a second passport. It has also counselled foreign governments on their immigration laws and regulations. 

READ MORE ABOUT CITIZENSHIP BY INVESTMENT & SECOND PASSPORT OPTIONS AROUND THE WORLD

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My last gastronomic meal before COVID19 changed the world forever was lunch at the famous restaurant El Celler de Can Roca. It was just days before the coronavirus hit Spain like a meteor and there I was in the town of Girona, about 90 minutes from Barcelona, oblivious to the disaster about to descend. This was my second visit to the Roca brothers and I was eager to sample their winter menu.

We arrived at 1 PM, on time just like all the other diners that day. The waiting list for a reservation at El Celler de Can Roca is generally about 15 months, and the feeling for many is like winning the lottery. So everyone looked excited and pleased at having secured one of the most coveted restaurant tables in the world. Not a few, like me, had even flown halfway around the world for this experience.

IS THIS THE LONGEST LUNCH IN THE WORLD?

Our lunch that day lasted seven and-a-half hours, including digestifs in the lounge. I personally thought that was a world record, and yet we were only the second to the last to leave the restaurant. When we headed out the door at 745 PM, one group that had been seated next to us at lunch was still at the bar. None of them were showing signs of leaving.

In all, we had 23 dishes, including appetizers and petit fours. To complement this spectacular meal, the restaurant sommelier recommended we order their wine pairing, which resulted in a day of about 27 different wines and spirits.

Interestingly, with so much alcohol in my system, I expected a massive hangover the next morning; but there was not even a faint hint of one. This may be part of the deft touch of Josep Roca who curates everything poured into a glass here.

A WORLD WITH NO PROBLEMS

Both visits to El Celler de Can Roca have been unforgettable in every sense. People travel from far and wide to this temple of gastronomy expecting to taste a series of delicious Instagram-worthy dishes.

It’s only later that they realize how the seven hours they spent here was actually way more than about food. In truth, it is a chance to see how dreams and blissful fantasies become reality even for a moment. No matter who the diners are and where they have come from, nothing will prepare them for a meal at El Celler de Can Roca. It is spectacular in every sense.

This is a gourmet experience and a wine experience, as well as a complete multi-sensory one. It’s a ticket into another world where everything is perfect and all you need to do is sit back and enjoy.

I’ve eaten in so many of the world’s best restaurants, yet this feeling of joy that accompanies the meal is unique to only a few. And I experienced it on both visits to El Celler de Can Roca. When I passed through the door of the restaurant, I literally left my troubles and the ordinary world behind — right next to the umbrella stand perhaps. Especially this meal last January 22, which I count as one of my happiest days for 2020 so far.

WHERE TIME STANDS STILL

What is the feeling of being in another world like? For one thing, time stands still and you are suspended in a happy animation, in a place where problems do not exist — at least at the table. Suddenly everything feels perfect but one doesn’t know exactly why. It’s enough to understand that you are exactly where you should be and nowhere else.

You are both witness to a theater of gastronomy and also participant. This is how you manage to sit through a seven-hour meal and feel like it is only 60 minutes.

THE TRULY WONDERFUL COOKING AT EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA

The restaurant vibe itself is polished, streamlined and modern. It was storming outside that day — the heaviest rains in Girona in recent history actually — but we felt nothing at all, even if we sat next to floor-to-ceiling windows on both sides.

You might be wondering at this point: what exactly is served at a restaurant officially called “the best restaurant in the world” several times? Well, here’s the menu for January 22 at El Celler de Can Roca.

The appetisers and main courses were prepared by Chef Joan Roca while the desserts were made by his brother Jordi Roca. Meanwhile, the wines were chosen by Josep Roca.

Josep Roca and Joan Roca were at the restaurant that day, and they both came over to say hello. The last time I’d seen Joan Roca was at the presidential palace in the Philippines for the opening of Madrid Fusion Manila, a food festival that involved some of the most famous chefs in Spain.

THE WORLD THEN AND NOW.

Since that perfectly delicious day last January, in a span of several months the world has suddenly become a most imperfect place. The global status quo has changed and not for the better. And if I understood then what I know now, perhaps I would have savored the sweet finish of the wines a little longer. 

READ ABOUT THE MOST ROMANTIC WEDDING VENUE IN SPAIN

Or maybe more diligently memorized the way half a dozen ingredients were combined so nicely into a bite-sized dish that still retained every flavor. Remembering beautiful details like these help make the vicissitudes of life more bearable, after all.

But I was too busy being happy and too happy being fed to digress from emotions to analysis. This is what a meal at the world’s best restaurant does to you. It serves you bliss on a plate. Or, more accurately, bliss on 23 plates.

THE MENU AT EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA

The meal began with THE WORLD

For this first course, a globe was set in front of us — one for each. In hindsight, how prophetic this turned out to be. There we were literally with the whole world in front of us, not knowing we were looking at it the way we knew it, for the last time. It was served to us on a plate and then quickly taken away. But I digress from the glorious food.

Each globe had arms containing canapés inspired by some countries that the Roca brothers recently traveled to. Everything was delicious and each really reminded me of the country mentioned.

There was a tiny taco seasoned with mango, onion and coriander to represent Mexico; and a canapé of Middle East spices shaped in the form of a Giza pyramid to show Egypt. The arm for Turkey had a slice of lamb with yoghurt and cucumber, while a piece of raw octopus topped with ginger represented Japan.

However, the big surprise here was figuring out how to open the globe. You see, inside the globe was another delectable appetiser and we could only eat this by solving the puzzle. Eventually we found the solution. Each arm holding an appetiser had to align with the country on the map. When everything is aligned, the globe opens.

Mexico : Jicama taco, mango, onion, lemon, achiote and coriander

Japan : Octopus with ginger

Egypt : Giza pyramid

Turkey : Lamb, yoghurt, cucumber, onions with mint

Peru : Chili crab

Memories of a bar in the suburbs of Girona

This dish was basically a 3D art installation, too beautiful to eat. It was the paper version of a 1960s tapas bar — yes, the old-fashioned kind of Spanish hangout before tapas became so hip and stylish. We imagined that this was a childhood memory of the Roca brothers, perhaps a place a neighbour owned or one their parents took them to when they were growing up.

This 3D paper diorama arrived complete with black and white photos of the chef and waiter standing behind the counter. Inside this installation, Joan Roca placed assorted tiny treats from another era : meat cannelloni, a truffled brioche, a fried black olive and a cassava flower grilled in butter. No one eats tapas like these anymore except perhaps in the most rural places of Spain.

We felt like we were playing with a doll house although this could easily have been a piece in a modern art gallery.

Squids, kidneys and sherry. Gentian and orange bonbon. Montse’s meat cannelloni. Delicious Cassava flower grilled with a beurre blanc sauce and roe of mullet, caviar and salmon. Green olive’s ice cream, and black olive tempura. Cabbage, truffle and anchovies. Tartufo meringue. Truffled brioche.

Vegetable surf and turf. Seaweeds and spring herbs and flowers orange salad

Sweet potato puree, carrot puree, saffron and vinegar, yuzu marmalade, carrot sauce, tangerine, apple, orange juice, ginger, sriracha sauce, grilled mango, yellow beetroot, salad of chicory, Jerusalem artichoke and mango, air of piparra, bottarga and sea urchin

Spring pickles with walnut romesco sauce.

Mackerel ajoblanco : Mousse of ajoblanco and mackerel skin, lemon puree, capers, succulent leaf, fino wine jelly and mackerel soup

Charcoal-grilled calcot with hazelnuts, black sesame, nori seaweed and calcot oil

Pumpkin with smoked eel. Light pumpkin seed milk and dark pumpkin seed milk, pumpkin oil, fried pumpkin seeds, pumpkin juice, confit lemon and orange peel, bell pepper

Prawn marinated with rice vinegar, head juice, crispy prawn legs and seaweed veloute

Langoustine with sobrassada sauce, langoustine velour and parsley jelly

Semi-cured hake, juice of its bones, asparagus and rocket pesto, grilled piparras and rocket oil

Steamed freshly-caught whole fish stuffed with seaweeds and sea anemones

Iberian suckling pig satin with kabu turnip in red wine and juniper berry chantilly

Squab pithivier with spinach and truffles, squab sauce and chlorophyll spinach sauce

DESSERTS AT EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA

Petrichor : Distilled earth, pine syrup ice cream, carob cookie, fir dust and cocoa biscuit

White flower : Elderberry, acacia, orange blossom, soursop, lychee and green apple

Cocoa bean : Cocoa bean cream with chocolate mousse and an infusion of cocoa bean husk. This is made in the El Celler de Can Roca chocolate workshop with cocoa beans from the indigenous community of the Arhuaco in the Sierra Nevada in Northern Colombia

THE WINES AT EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA

The following wines, spirits and coffee choices accompanied our lunch. Each course was thoughtfully paired with a drink. After the meal, we also tasted home-made liquor in the lounge.

Jacques Lassaigne “Les Vignes de Montgueux” A.O.C. Champagne

Albet i Noya El Celler Brut Rva D.O. Classic Penedes

La Garrofera Cervesa Rupestre Ars Natura Liquida

Mestres Mas Via 00 D.O. Cava

Adina 16 D.O. Rias Baixas

Cueva by Mariano Orange 18 Valencia

Vamos, Vamos! 18 Conca de Barbera

Manto de la Riva 17 Vino de Jerez

Blanc Sorra 15 D.O. Emporda

Georg Breuer Nonnenberg 13 Rheingau

Parfas 09 D.O. Penedes

Heymann-Lowenstein Uhlen “L” Terroir Roth Lay 15 VDP Mosel

Finca l’arcata 17 D.O. Montsant

Ossian 17 Vino de la Tierra Castilla y Leon

Vina Tondonia Rosat 08 D.O. Ca. Rioja

Escombro 18 D.O. Yecla

Pintia 04 D.o. Toro

Joh. Jos. Prum Zeltinger Graacher Himmelreich 10 Spaltete V.D.P. Mosel

Sake Katsuyama from Miyagi

Cafe Colombia ; Finca la Colombia, Ciudad Bolivar, Antioquia

Catalina Vasquez Variedad Caturra

Perez Barquero la Canada VORS Montilla Moriles

Read more about the best restaurants in the world in Travelife Magazine.

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There are many options for destination weddings and romantic hotels in Andalusia. However, the hotel La Esperanza, built on a hill overlooking the whole valley, offers complete privacy and a most unique setting for a holiday, a wedding or any special occasion.

La Esperanza in the Lecrin Valley of Andalucia is now open for villa rentals, weddings and special events. It is 35 minutes from Granada and 90 minutes from Malaga.

La Esperanza is a magnificent hacienda in the Spanish Mission style. Set on 4.5 hectares of private flower gardens and forests of organic fruit trees and almond trees, it offers a lovely escape to nature in style.

Click here to contact La Esperanza

Only 35 minutes from Granada and 90 minutes from Malaga, it is also a boutique hotel and a fully serviced holiday rental villa with a housekeeping team on call. A private chef and sommelier, masseuse and acupuncturist are also available for villa rentals.

The hotel also offers private guided tours by car of Granada and the white hill towns of the Lecrin Valley. Since the region is famous for its Andalucian horses, guests can also explore the valley on horses or learn to ride at nearby schools. For those who wish to try their hand at Spanish cooking, flamenco and yoga — professional teachers can visit the villa to share their skills right on the premises.

WEDDINGS AT LA ESPERANZA

Prospective brides will love the courtyard of La Esperanza. Large and airy, it’s a romantic venue for outdoor wedding dinners and events under the stars. It has a star-shaped fountain inspired by the Alhambra of Granada and lemon trees around the courtyard, with towers at both ends. Its front tower is perfect for wedding pictorials.

Moreover, the hotel has a lovely hall for intimate celebrations. 109 square meters in size, it offers a loge for performances or a viewing gallery, a stone fireplace at one end and excellent acoustics for musical soirées. Pianists will enjoy playing on the 1903 Bechstein grand piano, in perfect condition, in the hall.

Click here to contact La Esperanza

PRIVATE EVENTS AT LA ESPERANZA

For large events, organisers can combine the events hall and the courtyard with the estate’s manicured gardens. Also, grand weddings and public events like opera performances can be staged in front of the hotel.

Unique among other boutique hotels, La Esperanza is set a far distance from any public road for complete privacy. Catering services can be arranged and adequate parking is available on the property.

ABOUT THE HOTEL

La Esperanza is light and airy. It benefits from morning sun and provides shade in the afternoon. With cool winds blowing in at night from the Sierra Nevada, evenings can be comfortably chilly. So guests can relax in front of the fireplace in the lobby lounge or on the terrace.

The hotel currently has seven rooms, all unique with vaulted ceilings in the Andalucian style. Currently, two more rooms are under construction in the guest wing. Also, plans are being made for luxury glamping yurts on the estate’s extensive grounds.

Click here to contact La Esperanza

RENT A LUXURY VILLA IN SPAIN

A lush paradise in an unspoilt valley, guests will enjoy having run of the house of this private hacienda. As a result, it’s full of walking trails amidst flowering bushes, fruit trees and pine trees. The pine trees ensure that the estate is green and lush all year-round.

Moreover, guests who wish to relax will find fireplaces, seating areas, and outdoor lounge chairs all around the property . These are perfect for reading, writing, painting, meditation or practicing yoga. The property also has a heated infinity swimming pool.

ROOMS AT LA ESPERANZA

It has four ensuite double rooms in the guest wing of the property. These have private patios overlooking the Rio Albunuelos Valley and direct access to the central courtyard. Designed in a distinct Andalucian style, each room boasts of traditional archways and stylish country interiors. Also, one room has been designed for disabled access.

Click here to contact La Esperanza

SUITES AT LA ESPERANZA

In addition, the hotel has two special suites.

LA MAJESTUOUSA is an ensuite double bedroom with its own sitting room and library. It has direct access to the courtyard. Meanwhile, the grand suite LA FELIZ offers majestic 180-degree views of the Lecrin Valley and snow capped mountains in the winter. It has its own dressing room and bathroom with a view. Also, double doors open onto a Juliet balcony overlooking a walled garden.

WORKSHOPS IN SPAIN

The property is a haven for creatives. With nature and serenity in abudance, it is the perfect safe venue for destination activities. This is ideal for destination workshops for yoga, painting, creative writing, and learning the flamenco. At the same time, the beautiful cities of Granada and Malaga are only short distances away. So culture and gastronomy are at your doorstep.

Granada is famous for the Alhambra, many buildings of Moorish architecture, tapas bars and the flamenco. Moreover, you will enjoy simply getting lost in this beautiful city. It’s easy to spend the whole day exploring. And when you’re through, our resident chef/ sommelier and spa therapist await your return to La Esperanza.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

• Granada
• Malaga
• The famous white hill towns of the Lecrin Valley including Albuñuelas, Chite, Durcal and Lecrin
• Skiing in the Sierra Nevada mountains
• The wide beaches of La Herradura, Playa la Rijana, Playa de Velilla and Playa de la Guardia
• Santa Clara Golf Club
• Granada Golf Club
• Los Moriscos Club de Golf
• A.D.E. La Laguna Riding Center

Read more about the Lecrin Valley of Andalucia here

OTHER AMENITIES AT LA ESPERANZA

• Underfloor heating and radiator heating in the winter.
• Fast broadband internet throughout the property.
• Streaming of international television via the internet and UK Sky viewing via satellite.
• Double glazing throughout for sound and cold. 
• Two beautifully fitted kitchens in the Andalucian style. 

Read more about destination weddings in Spain in Travelife Magazine.

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One of the nicest places I stayed in for 2019 was the Parador de Cuenca in the province of Castilla La Mancha. It’s not a luxurious hotel in the typical sense. However the hotel is furnished in very good taste. It has the kind of atmosphere you will never forget.

THE LOCATION OF THE PARADOR DE CUENCA

One of the best things about the Parador de Cuenca is its location. It’s slightly away from the city of Cuenca, but it’s across an old river bed from the old town. Opposite the parador are the famous hanging houses of Cuenca, which are probably the top attraction of the city.

I was breathless with wonder when I got out of the car and saw the view of the old town of Cuenca from the hotel driveway for the first time. I arrived just as the sun was setting, and the sun cast a golden sheen on the town.

A ROOM WITH A VIEW IN SPAIN

Luck was with me that day. I got a room with this exact same view, and I never got tired of gazing out. In fact, my room had a ledge and I often sat on this ledge reading a book or writing in my diary while looking at the view.

In the morning, I loved opening the heavy wooden windows and seeing the old town of Cuenca in all its morning glory.

ABOUT THE CONVENT OF SAN PABLO

The Parador de Cuenca is a hotel created from the Convent of San Pablo, one of the most famous monuments in the city. It’s situated on a ridge overlooking the River Huecar, and it is connected to the old town via a footbridge. This current footbridge was built in 1903 to replace an old stone bridge that had been connecting the convent to the old town until it fell down in 1895.

The Convent of San Pablo itself was built in 1523 on top of a small ancient monastery. The two most important architects in Cuenca created a convent and church in the Gothic style.

Focus on Spain : MEETING THE KING OF TRUFFLES OF SPAIN

THE INTERIORS OF THE PARADOR

Much of the ancient church still remains. However the interiors have been upgraded to suit a luxury hotel in Spain. I love the way the ancient stonework and black-and-white tiles are combined with contemporary furniture and modern art.

The widow of a famous local artist, Julian Casado, donated some of his most important works to the Parador de Cuenca. Today guests can admire his works all around the courtyard lobby of the parador.

Focus on Spain : LUNCH WITH SPANISH TRUFFLE HUNTERS

BREAKFAST IN A CONVENT

I also like the breakfast room here. I’m guessing it was once the refectory as it has high vaulted ceilings, impressive frescoes and elaborate stonework on the sides. It’s a beautiful room to start the day in, especially as the Parador de Cuenca makes excellent churros con chocolate.

Read more about the beautiful hotels in Spain in Travelife Magazine.

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We were walking around a tiny hamlet of Mora de Rubielos in the interior of beautiful Spain one late afternoon last month. This is supposed to be one of the prettiest little towns in the country, or what the Spaniards describe as “los bonitos pueblos del interior de España,” so I was eager to see the town squares and the buildings.

It really is a lovely little town few foreigners have heard of. It’s also the epicentre for the truffle industry of Spain, which experts say is the biggest in the world. Just after we’d passed the church square, my companion said on the spur of the moment: “Let’s climb to the top of that mountain for an amazing view. It’ll be fun.”

ARAGON: THE REAL SPAIN

There is a mountain right next to the town and locals climb this for exercise. The 14 Stations of the Cross are also installed along the ridge, so many people from around the region come here during Holy Week to complete their prayers.

The view from the top, where there is an ancient look-out tower, is supposed to be breathtaking. There are few foreign tourists in the regions of Castilla-La Mancha and Aragon, by the way. Most travelers bypass these places to head to the major cities outside Madrid like Barcelona, Seville or Toledo.

This is probably why Castilla-La Mancha and Aragon are often referred to by locals as the “real Spain.” They are way off the grid in every sense, so the town are all about real life. Tourists are few and far between. 

I stayed in a lovely suite in the best hotel in Mora de Rubielos, for instance, with an impressive spa and a great truffle restaurant; and the receptionist said to me: “I think we had an Asian tourist once, a few years ago.”

THE MOUNTAINS OF SPAIN. AND OF LIFE.

Anyhow, back to the mountain next to Mora de Rubielos. This mountain was quite symbolic, as all of that day I was thinking of metaphorical mountains to climb in my life.

Then, so very suddenly, I was ending the day with a real mammoth of a mountain in front of me. There truly are no accidents in life. This was certainly the push I needed to tackle this mountain, along with the symbolic mountains of my life.

It was just at that border between autumn and winter when I visited, and that particular day brought freezing temperatures but clear skies. And just as my companion proposed a climb, we were quickly heading into night and the strong winds easily brought everything down by five degrees or more in three seconds flat.

If you’ve already been to the major cities of Spain, perhaps it’s time to explore “los bonitos pueblos del interior de España.” And to climb that mountain in your life.

CARPE DIEM IN MORA DE RUBIELOS

But my companion was insistent. She said: “We must do it. When else will you have the chance? Carpe Diem.”

So we climbed the mountain in freezing winter weather. It was tough but obviously not impossible. Some of the locals were climbing this same mountain every day, in fact.

So we hiked up slowly, pausing to take photos every so often. And at the top, we were rewarded with views of this extraordinary hamlet, with its charming streets, exquisite original wooden architecture, and this massive medieval castle. And, of course, it’s famous truffles industry.

RELATED CONTENT: Hunting truffles with the King of Truffles in Spain

If you’ve already been to the major cities of Spain, perhaps it’s time to explore “los bonitos pueblos del interior de España.” And to climb that mountain in your life.

Read more about traveling in Spain in Travelife Magazine.

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