In the middle of a sweltering August afternoon, I landed in Marrakech and stepped into the cool and dimly-lit lobby of the famous La Mamounia. This hotel has intrigued luxury travelers for decades with its legendary status and famous guests. It exudes history, elegance and yet also a vibrant Moroccan spirit. I’ve stayed at La Mamounia several times before but this was the first since the pandemic. For a few days, I was once again part of its storied legacy.

Walking in the Footsteps of Winston Churchill

La Mamounia has been a sanctuary for many notable figures over the years. However, perhaps none has left a more enduring mark than former British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. Known for his love of painting, he often referred to La Mamounia as “the most lovely spot in the whole world.”

Churchill first visited the hotel in the 1930s and returned many times. Often, he brought his easel and paints, eager to capture the beauty of the gardens and the Atlas Mountains beyond. Even now it’s easy to imagine him sitting in the very same gardens I could see from my suite, painting the rows pf flowers and palm trees.

La Mamounia’s gardens have been a central part of its identity since the hotel opened. Spanning nearly 20 acres, it is a lush private world of greenery within the walls of the Marrakech Medina. Orange and olive trees, cacti, roses, and towering palms create a space so serene that it feels miles away from the hustle and bustle.

Somewhere in this garden as well is a small plaque to mark the spot where Churchill used to set up his easel.

The views from the executive suite

My executive suite was a lovely blend of Moroccan craftsmanship and modern elegance. Hand-carved cedarwood screens, intricate zellij tilework in rich shades of cobalt and emerald, and plush velvety furnishings made it feel grand and yet also comforting. Every detail, from the Moroccan silk curtains to the opulent marble bathroom, reflected La Mamounia’s dedication to authentic design. It was a joy to return to this suite every evening.

READ ABOUT ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL HACIENDA HOTELS IN SPAIN

Legendary Hospitality at La Mamounia

However the staff’s hospitality was what really made all the difference to my stay. The team was sincere, confident and professional across the board. For instance, a lady serving us lunch in the lobby told us, who said she’d been working at the hotel for many years, gave some pointers for what to see in the medina.

Meanwhile, my spa therapist for the hotel’s signature Obido facial, which was so good that I booked it twice, taught me how to massage my face. As for the wonderful concierge team, they truly tried their best to get me into the most impossible places in Marrakech.

I’ve stayed in the best hotels in the world. Each member of the La Mamounia team was personally invested in making my experience extraordinary.

Farewell to a great hotel

Leaving La Mamounia was a bittersweet experience. Having stayed nearly a week in such splendor, I was reluctant to check out. The past and present coexist harmoniously at La Mamounia and every detail tells a story. And every member of the hotel team is a storyteller, bringing the warmth of Moroccan hospitality to life in every interaction.

This is not simply another luxurious hotel. It is an experience and a journey into Moroccan heritage that lingers long after the stay is over. No wonder Winston Churchill and countless others — myself included — were and continue to be captivated by its charm.

Read more about Luxury Travel in Morocco in Travelife Magazine

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“Where are you headed next?” Everyone asked me, after a week in Marrakech. I had been staying at the famous La Mamounia which hardly needs an introduction. It is still the perfect base for exploring the city even if newer luxury hotels have appeared. However, finally I reluctantly packed my bags to head for the wilderness.

I replied: “I’m going to the Alone In The World camp of Alcimat.”

Nothing To Google

No matter who I spoke to, they had not heard of this luxury camp in the middle of nowhere. Of course, I became apprehensive. The luxury sector of Morocco is vast and varied but it is nevertheless still a small world. Everyone knows each other or at least has heard of the other.

Upon reaching the Alone In The World camp, which is just under a two-hour drive from Marrakech, I realized why. With a smile and a hint of a giggle, the staff told me that their camp deliberately did not have a website nor any contact details. An online search of Alcimat, the parent company, yielded a handful of lovely photos that hinted at nothing. As for googling “Alone In The World”? All I can say is, “good luck to you.”

The Insiders of Alone In The World

So apparently one was either in the know about this camp or not. Among those in the know were former French President Nicolas Sarkozy and his singer/ model wife Carla Bruni. They had stayed there. The design team of Yves St Laurent were including in this whispering circle as well, along with a group of very fashionable Russian women. And now, happily, so was I.

I had always dreamed of staying in a camp like this because it is luxury at its most unique. It is neither a desert camp nor a safari camp, although the tented accommodations certainly had an Out of Africa theme.

Amidst vast horizons and endless silence, the heavy duty ensuite tents with vintage interiors and a swimming pool carved from rocks stood as if they had always been there. These blend seamlessly with the surroundings but were as breathtaking as the views,

Initial Impressions

The Alone In The World camp is accessed via a long, winding drive through barren landscapes and stone villages in the Atlas Mountains. Many of the latter were still affected by the last large earthquake.

At the camp, the tents are spread across a rocky ridge, each one positioned with an unobstructed view of the mountain ridge across. The earth here was rugged, a mix of red and rust-colored stones, with only the odd olive tree for a touch of green. Meanwhile, the uneven terrain created a sense of wild, untouched beauty. This was a place shaped by harsh winds and sun, a land etched with history.

READ ABOUT THE LOVELIEST HACIENDA IN SOUTHERN SPAIN

Morocco’s Most Exclusive Camp

The camp is small and understated. Yes, I was literally Alone In The World. Whether you are one guest or twelve, the entire camp and its staff is for you when you book it. As for the camp itself, each tent is simple yet stylish.

The interior accents include Berber rugs, old-fashioned lamps and hanging gas lanterns, and handcrafted cushions with tribal designs. You also find lovely antiques such as old tea pots and useful items from the safari camps of old.

Each tent has a small covered terrace with leather camp chairs for taking in the majesty all around. There is nothing but miles of rocky terrain framed by distant mountains. Nevertheless, you are captivated from the first moment.

I walked to the edge of the swimming pool created with rocks — all mine for my stay — to watch the sunset. There was a slight breeze, carrying the coolness of dusk, and the view before me was staggering. The landscape changed colors as the sun dipped lower. It shifted from amber to deep crimson, then finally to a violet hue that softened the sharp edges of the rocks. I found myself lost in a silence so profound that it felt alive.

Civilization In The Middle of Nowhere

As darkness fell, the rangers beckoned for dinner. The meals are arranged in the main tent, on a large dining table adorned with dripping candelabras. Meanwhile, the menu, which is up to the resident chef, varies according to inspiration, seasonality, and availability. With advance notice, he can whip up practically anything in his small tented kitchen.

The dishes we had were excellent and sophisticated fusion — a marvel, considering our location. None of the usual tagine and couscous unless specifically requested by guests.

That night, the meal ended with the finest desserts in Marrakech. Such civilization in the middle of nowhere and apparently only the best will do for the camp’s guests. In this case, we had French champagne (Ruinart) and fancy desserts. Everything sweet, along with the breads for breakfast, came fresh from the Pierre Herme patisserie at the La Mamounia. The staff purchase these and bring them to the camp on their daily trips.

After dinnerl, I wandered back to my tent to enjoy the depth of the silence around me. I lay on my bed, with just the tent’s opening flap pulled back, letting the cool night air drift in. When I looked outside, the sky was a stunning tapestry of stars. Each one was sharp and bright in the clear desert air. I could see the Milky Way stretching across the sky, a glittering ribbon against the deep darkness. I lay there for what felt like hours, just breathing. My mind was still as my senses became attuned to the quiet rhythm of the night.

Alone In The World But Not Lonely

The next morning, I woke just before dawn to watch the sunrise from the ridge. The air was cool and crisp and there was no one in sight. Not even the staff for breakfast was awake. And as the first light rose over the rocks, I was overwhelmed with emotion. There was beauty all around me and I was Alone In The World. However, I was not at all lonely.

Read more stories about luxury travel experiences in Morocco

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Every morning in Fes, Morocco, we looked forward to a healthy and delicious Moroccan breakfast at the Palais Amani. This jewel of a luxury riad in the heart of the Old City of Fes happens to be my favorite. I stay here each time I am in Fes. 

The Palais Amani is not an over-the-top place, but everything is in very good taste so that you will find nothing wanting.  There is enough space and greenery, and everywhere you look is a feast for the senses.

THE ROOFTOP OF THE PALAIS AMANI

Breakfasts were pretty much served the same way each day. Everything was beautifully presented so I always felt like taking photos before eating. The Moroccan breakfast wasn’t a buffet, unlike in other luxury hotels, and there was never a table groaning with food. Nevertheless, we were never hungry, even if we’re both used to eating a lot at breakfast.

READ ABOUT THE MOST ROMANTIC WEDDING VENUE IN SPAIN

HEALTHY MOROCCAN BREAKFAST

We so enjoyed the breakfasts here, which were different everyday. There was always lots of fresh fruits and a very good quality Moroccan yoghurt which I spooned lots of honey on. The chefs also made us an incredible juice based on fruits in season.

And then we were always served some sort of Arabic or Moroccan soup that seemed so healthy. The soups, made with vegetables and spices, were so good. I always felt like I was starting the morning right, having yoghurt and vegetable soup in my tummy.

FRESHLY BAKED BREADS AND EGGS TO ORDER

The assorted breads were freshly baked somewhere in the medina, and I loved also having these with the local honey.

For a hot meal, it was always eggs done anyway we wanted. And everyday, we always ordered an omelette with everything in it. You’d think an omelette with everything in it would be pretty standard fare, right? Not at the Palais Amani in Fez.

Every day we had a different kind of omelette. Each one was as delicious as the previous one, so that we looked forward to breakfast every morning. Just like we were excited for every wonderful but different day in Morocco, living our never-ending, and never-endingly eventful Travelife.  

Christine Cunanan is the publisher of Travelife Magazine.

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One of my greatest pleasures is to go shopping in the souks in Morocco. The souks are messy and busy, but you never know what treasures you’ll find along the way. Morocco, by the way, is one of my favorite countries because it’s a cacophony of sights, sounds and smells.

One day in the ancient city of Fes, we woke up bright and early for a traditional Moroccan breakfast on a rooftop of the Palais Amani.

This is one of my favorite riads in Fes, and we had an amazing view of the green rooftops of Fes from our breakfast table. We were in the city for a few days on a leisurely schedule, and that day we were set to walk the souk on a shopping trip with a local chef.

We had signed up for a tagine cooking class that morning, you see. So our trip to the souk involved buying a live chicken, stopping by a spices store to get some ground spices, and picking up some vegetables. The souk sells everything, you see, so there is a dry area with all kinds of exotic goods. And there is also a wet area for food.

THE SOUKS OF MOROCCO

In the afternoon, we wandered around the dry area of the souk of Fes, looking for souvenirs and curios. During our walk, we stumbled upon a crafts workshop in the outskirts of town. Here, local craftsmen worked all day painting pottery and attaching intricate wiring on these items as decor.

As soon as I entered, a bright red ceramic pitcher caught my eye. It was just the kind of souvenir I wanted to remind me of this wonderful trip to Morocco.

Again, I have so many things all over my house from my travels, which is kind of nice because it makes for endless dinner conversations. But it also means space is running out so I’ve been pretty careful about adding to my “collection,” especially on my last few trips.

LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT

This red ceramic pitcher caught my eye stood out among a plethora of colorful patterns on tiles, tabletops, plates and just about anything and everything.   Since it was a tourist store, they quoted me a rather high price at first.

Upon hearing the price, I was ready to give up. I’m sure you know the feeling. No matter how attractive or beautiful, some things are just not worth having at too high a price.

A MATTER OF FATE

Then the Travel Companion came up to me and said: “You’re not getting it?” He’d seen me eyeing this red pitcher, you see, and now I was about to walk away.

I shrugged. I really believe in fate, you see, and how some things will happen or some will not happen. Things that are meant to be will just come to you effortlessly. Or else they are not meant to be. So I generally don’t spend much time over-thinking anything.

So I replied: “I’m going to walk away. If the man goes after me, quoting a good price, that means it’s meant to be mine. But if he lets me walk away, it just means that pitcher is never going to be mine.“

SECOND CHANCES IN LIFE

So we left the showroom and were already walking down the road back to the main area of the souk. I’d already half-forgotten about the pitcher, when the man came running after me, shouting out a price that at the outskirts of my budget.

So the pitcher is really meant to be mine after all, I thought.

READ MORE : TAGINE COOKING LESSONS IN MOROCCO

ONE MORE MEMORY

And with just a little more haggling, the price came down to a comfortable level within my budget. 

This was when I took out my credit card. In my mind, I wasn’t really buying a red pitcher. I was purchasing another memory to remind me of this wonderful trip to Morocco, living a never-ending Travelife.

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What if booking a hotel room and going to the same touristic places is something you are not considering? Maybe you and your group hanker for a different kind of vacation, a unique getaway, or an unforgettable experience.

In this case, glamping is the perfect plan for an authentic autumn holiday, and here are five reasons why.

Comfort and luxury in the great outdoors

Glamping is all about glam and chic camping in nature, that means you get the best of the great outdoors without all the inconveniences. With amenities and decorations similar to those found in a five-star hotel, these unique accommodations are great alternatives to traditional campouts.

Why not opt for a cabin with a hot tub or a rental with an outdoor shower? Just because you are out in the wild, doesn’t mean you can’t pamper yourself. 

Unique accommodations in unique locations

From yurts and treehouses to airstreams and castles, glamping can’t get more authentic.

These accommodations are located in the most beautiful sceneries: national parks, private islands, or secluded oasis are part of the plethora of settings where you can relish the spirit of the wild in style. 

Fresh air and cool nights

The idea of getting away from the hot heated cities, taking in a deep breath of fresh mountain air or enjoying the cool ocean breeze is more than appealing.

Since glamping is all about comfort, you can be sure you’ll stay fresh indoors and you will thank the coolness of the night. What’s more, you can look up at the star-filled sky from the privacy of a spacious deck.

It is eco-friendly

Glamping is great when it comes to the environment. Most accommodations are constructed with eco-friendly materials. Shipping containers, for instance, are recycled and transformed into charming and very unique lodging.

Furthermore, the use of composting toilets, solar power, and working gardens reduces the environmental footprint and helps toward minimizing the impact we have in nature.

Endless adventures

Most glamping accommodations are located in the wild and with so much nature surrounding, outdoor adventures are endless.

There’s whitewater rafting, canoeing, diving, hiking, and biking. Also, there’s wine tasting and wildlife watching. Or you can just relax. There are unlimited option for recreation while on a glamping holiday.

Written by Alexis Vega, SEO Specialist at Glamping Hub.

Read more about glamping around the world in Travelife Magazine.

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On a #Travelife to Morocco, I went shopping in souks and climbed hills in the middle of the desert outside of Ouarzazate. I also bought a Moroccan Berber carpet and learned how to make a chicken tagine at the Palais Amani in Fes. On this trip, one of my best memories was a stay at the Palais Amani.

HOW TO GET TO THE PALAIS AMANI IN FES

To say that the Palais Amani underwhelms at the outset is an understatement. I still remember with not a little trepidation our arrival on the first of my two visits to Morocco last year. We’d driven from Rabat, the capital of Morocco, to the edge of the ancient town of Fez. 

We passed by the palace of the King and skirted the walls of the medina before alighting in a parking lot full of wheelbarrows of food and dry goods. There were also vehicles in various states of disrepair, and masses of people – from rambunctious teenagers playing ball games to old ladies hawking homemade sweets.

And then we had to trudge up a narrow alleyway used by donkeys and pockmarked with stones, entering this via a steep staircase sandwiched by a budget hostel with a television blaring on the top floor and an equally cheap-looking café serving the ubiquitous chicken tagine. This was the way to the Palais Amani.

A BEAUTIFUL RIAD IN FES

It wasn’t quite the setting I’d imagined for a stylish boutique hotel in exotic Fez. In fact, my companion had very clearly asked me with unhappy undertones, as we navigated an unpicturesque passageway and walked along an equally spartan corridor towards our destination: “What kind of hotel have you booked?”

WHAT LIES BEHIND

Fortunately, I chose to ignore this rhetorical question and to simply let the hotel I’d booked eventually speak for itself.

Like many of the best experiences of Morocco, the beauty of Palais Amani lies hidden behind its heavy wooden doors. A dozen steps past these doors inside was a lovely 600-square meter garden. 

This was palatial, considering we were inside the medina of Fez. It’s a setting of greenery, dancing fountains and intricately tiled walls. In fact, the entire riad spoke  of a graceful past as the well-loved home of a prosperous family.

Palais Amani is the biggest authentic riad in Fez. But it’s also charming in an intimate way. I was instantly enchanted by the low-key and easy elegance of this hotel.

UNIQUE HOTEL ROOM IN FEZ

Our room was very interesting, as well. I’m sure it was the best suite in the riad because it occupied one whole wing of the second floor. We entered via a living room into a bedroom.

The bedroom had two separate dressing rooms and five large floor-to-ceiling windows with French-style balustrades that overlooked the garden. The bathroom was in a lovely room that was as large as a home in Fez itself.

LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT IN MOROCCO

It was definitely love at first sight, for me and this suite. We spent many happy days here at Palais Amani, discovering the best attractions in Fez. This is the kind of city one either loves or hates, and I loved it.

A major UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s a busy jumble of dark corners and nearly 10,000 alleyways. Most of the alleys are chaotic by day, and almost deathly quiet at night. There are  no in-betweens. But if you are charmed by this city of contrasts that is still stuck in time somewhere between the 13th and 15th centuries, this feeling about Fez will stay with you forever like an image from a fairytale.

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Read about the new MGallery in Kyoto

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Orange juice and croissants for breakfast in the garden of The Selman Marrakech — with champion horses for company

So there we were on my birthday, celebrating with a little R&R in a beautiful private riad on the grounds of the Selman Hotel in Marrakech, after almost every one of my 35 friends had returned home from close to two weeks of living a #Travelife all over Morocco. 

We’d taken this beautiful private riad at The Selman Marrakech that supposedly was also occupied by the actor Tom Cruise for something like three weeks, during the filming of Mission Impossible 5.

Our private riad at The Selman in Marrakech

We even had the same butler team that was assigned to Tom Cruise for his stay — and weren’t they just excellent. Most private riads come with a full-time personal butler, and I’ve been lucky with my butlers in Morocco so far, as they’ve all been wonderful and ever so professional.

But the Tom Cruise team of butlers at the Selman wins hands down.

When we checked in, I invited some friends over to our riad for some champagne before dinner, so I called the butler and said: “Can you please prepare the house as I’m having some friends over?“

That’s my butler, waiting for the guests to arrive at the entrance to our private riad…

Just like that.

And then I went over to the gazebo at the other end of my private garden with a pot of mint tea to read a book on interior design in Lebanon and try and get better WiFi on my iPad.

Meanwhile, out came the candles all over the house, the lanterns by the swimming pool, the champagne and even a lovely multi-tiered platter of sweets. Like clockwork, and ever so silently that I was oblivious to preparations.

So that when my friends came over to pop the bottle with me, everything looked positively magical.

The gazebo at the end of my private garden at the Hotel Selman

Everyone oohed and aahed over this riad.

The butlers did dozens of things like this for me during our stay, to make the whole experience seamless and quite unforgettable. And when it was time to go home, they packed every breakable object I’d bought in Morocco in bubble wrap so that every single thing made it back home without a scratch.

This private riad of the Selman is certainly the most beautiful place I’d stayed in for 2015, as well as among the most beautiful private riads I’d stayed in in Morocco — and that’s saying a lot.

I’ve stayed in most of Morocco’s loveliest and most interesting places by now so I can write a guidebook on the best places to stay in five minutes. There are a handful, and each with its own strong points.

The Selman gets overall top points from me just because they have the best private riads I’ve seen so far. There’s enough space, enough decor, enough style and yet also enough calm so that everything is not one explosion of color and lines.

Anyway it was the day after my birthday, and Mr. Y said to me: “I’ve arranged a special breakfast today.“

Every day actually has a pretty special breakfast in my never-ending Travelife, if I have to tell the truth. And yes, I realise that I’m one of the luckiest people I know.

The day before, we’d had the full Moroccan breakfast via room service served in the grand pergola at the end of our private garden.

I had my favourite Moroccan eggs with meat and sauce, those delicious light pancakes with raw honey, and lots of argan oil sprinkled everywhere for anti-oxidants.

Then, for effect, our butler served my favourite Moroccan mint tea sans sugar with lots of flourish. It sure makes drinking mint tea a whole lot better. I’m sure he impressed Tom Cruise too with these special effects, in this very same lovely riad.

But that day, our butler picked us up with the golf cart and then he took us to a clearing right in front the main building. Here, he’d set up carpets all over the grass and a table heaping with breakfast goodies.

It was definitely the breakfast to impress.

Then, the main attraction arrived — and it wasn’t the food. We had prize-winning Arabian horses, who incidentally are ensconced in five-star horse lodgings nearby, perform a private show for us.

Talk about beautiful animals in a beautiful hotel.

What a wonderful post-birthday treat, and rather surreal but nice. Even for a never-ending Travelife.

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By the time we finally reached Ouarzazate, Morocco’s last frontier of civilization before the great Sahara desert and its vast plains of nothingness, I’d become positively car sick, mainly because of the countless hairpin turns we’d had to endure to cross the High Atlas Mountains from Marrakech.

This desolate area of Morocco is not for the fainthearted, but if you are willing to attempt the journey, you will be rewarded at the end by the spectacular vision of Ait Ben Haddou, Morocco’s most beautiful kasbah and the backdrop for many iconic period films on the deserts of Arabia. There is no other fortress as dramatic as this in the world, so this alone is worth the long drive.

THE ULTIMATE DESTINATION

For the discerning traveler, there is also the added carrot stick of staying at Dar Ahlam, a true destination hotel for those who think they’ve already been there and done that.

Approximately 40 kilometers from Ouarzazate, it’s a modern and luxurious version of a kasbah, rising surrealistically out of the middle of a windswept land of sand with a hundred – if not a thousand and one – crumbling kasbahs.

However, this is where the similarities end, as Dar Ahlam may be a 19th century mud brick kasbah in the middle of absolutely nowhere, but it’s been renovated by local craftsmen in the most authentic way to offer guests a traditional experience coupled with unimaginable five-star comfort.

PARIS IN MOROCCO

At least this was how I felt as, dusty from the drive, I walked through its stark entrance and navigated the initially dark entrance corridors to eventually emerge into a light-filled living room straight out of a Parisian interior design magazine.

Here, we sat down to enjoy champagne and sweets from Pierre Herme, listening to lounge music and marveling at the sudden easy elegance of everything. Where were we? The 16th arrondissement of Paris? We could have been well forgiven for thinking so.

Meanwhile, our suites in Dar Ahlam’s gardens, right next to the organic vegetable plot, were lovely combinations of Western aesthetics and Islamic décor and details.

In a stylish recreation of what seemed to me the embodiment of a contemporary Arabian fantasy, we had swaths of gauzy fabric adorning the walls or hanging from the ceilings, intricate inlaid furniture in

the lounge area, and a beautiful hand-hammered giant brass tray perched on a stand, laden with sweets, bottles of liqueur and anything else we might have wanted for a comfortable stay.

EXPERIENCING 1001 ARABIAN NIGHTS

Unfortunately, we had little time to enjoy these delights, as we had to leave again as quickly as we had arrived and walked through the property. Having flown to North Africa and from Marrakech come this very long way, we wanted to explore the countryside of sand dunes and 1000 kasbahs along a road that begins in the north of Morocco and that eventually – we were told – finds its way to the Silk Route in Asia. Late afternoon was the perfect time to do it.

What an unforgettable experience this was. We got into a 4WD that bobbed up and down with fervor through a large oasis until we reached the remains of a road that once saw the passing of hundreds of caravans involved in trade between the East and West. We drove past one kasbah after another, some obviously abandoned for years, several reinvented as coffee shops and simple restaurants, and others rebuilt as lodgings for adventure tourism.

“We can stop wherever you wish,” our guide said, “or I can bring you to some of my favorites.”

One kasbah we visited offered a glimpse of life a century ago via well-preserved receiving rooms lined wall-to-wall with fraying Berber carpets and an ancient kitchen that looked like it was still in use. Another advertised clean beds and decent meals for hardy travelers, while still another stood in a grove of palm trees, looking like it was about to crumble and disappear.

COCKTAILS IN THE DESERT

After an afternoon of explorations, we drove out to a hill in the dessert that afforded a panoramic 360-degree view of the environs of Skoura. This was as close to the Sahara desert as we were getting on this trip, but it was good enough. What I had seen so far in the equivalent of a Moroccan outback was even better than what I had imagined, standing on top of that world with the sun closing in, living a Travelife.

A lovely surprise awaited us as well. The staff of Dar Ahlam had gone ahead and prepared cocktails and afternoon tea for us, so that when we reached this point, there were two waiters all smiles and yet standing ever so formally at the end of a path lined with brass lanterns; and champagne flutes, tea cups and a vintage pot spread out on a Berber carpet, with tea leaves and fresh sprigs of mint on a tray nearby.

I could have sat there for hours, drinking cup after cup of tea, soaking in the most unreal atmosphere of Morocco at its beautiful wildest. This was, after all, what I had traveled to the ends of the earth for – and now, I knew that the efforts had been worth it.

This is not the end of the story, however. For when we returned to Dar Ahlam, the staff had arranged a lovely al fresco dinner on the rooftop, where we dined seated on Berber carpets amidst the glow of dozens of lanterns. The ubiquitious Moroccan lamb tagine made its appearance on the low wooden table, of course, and it was delicious. But at that point, the food was almost immaterial because we were under the stars on a beautiful evening, in a place that was simply out of this world.

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That’s our car, waiting to be loaded with a ton of luggage on the day we flew out of Morocco…

One of the things on my bucket list for our holiday in Morocco, living a Travelife, was a trip to Ouarzazate and a stay at the lovely Dar Ahlam, a Relais & Chateaux property once named one of the most beautiful villas in the world.

At the lovely Dar Ahlam

Again, I’d been to Morocco twelve years ago, but I hadn’t had time then to visit Ouarzazate, as it really is quite far.

It’s about a five-hour drive from Marrakech if you don’t stop, and you’ve got to cross the Atlas Mountains, which involves a never-ending series of steep and dizzying hairpin turns.

Scroll down to read more…

But when you finally reach the area of Ouarzazate, you realize everything is worth it — especially if you get to see Ait Ben Haddou and then stay over at Dar Ahlam.

Ait Ben Haddou is one of the loveliest kasbah in Africa.

It’s really breathtakingly beautiful to see especially from afar, but so few travelers to Morocco actually get to see it because it’s a real pain to get there.

PROBABLY THE BEST CAR & DRIVER

IN MOROCCO

Fortunately, the Travel Companion had contracted the best driver in Morocco and also the best car in Morocco.

Our driver was very professional and careful in his driving. He appeared at our hotel everyday impeccably dressed in a well-cut suit and he was on time to the second.

And not once in all our comings and goings everywhere around his country did we have to stand around on a street corner, for instance, and wonder where he’d gone.

He was always waiting for us, or on the lookout for us — wherever we were, in our never-ending Travelife in Morocco.

The one & only Dar Ahlam, a Relais & Chateaux property in Morocco

WELL-READ AND WELL-EDUCATED

He was also extremely well-educated and well-read — in fact, almost shockingly so.

He spoke something like five languages.

And, in between lulls in our chatter with each other, which of course didn’t include him, he quoted to the Travel Companion and myself from the works of Islamic and Western philosophers and poets.

He also talked to us about everything: from current affairs topics in Le Monde, the choice read for intellectual Parisians, to the novels of Gabriel Garcia Marquez.

Just like me, Garcia Marquez was one of his favorite novelists.

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WHAT A DIFFERENCE A COUNTRY MAKES

In a First World country, he might have been a university professor or a journalist for a respected newspaper.

But in Morocco, there he was, driving a Benz for two rather exacting travelers with very definite ideas about what they liked and what they hated — especially one of them, and that wasn’t me.

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This made me think about the roles that luck, opportunity and geography play in people’s lives, all things being equal.

Either way, we were extremely lucky to have him driving us around Morocco, from one end of the country to another, living a never-ending, and never-endingly eventful Travelife.

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The other night in Marrakech, living a Travelife, we had dinner at the La Mammounia, which is one of the great, historical hotels of the world and certainly the grand dame of North Africa.

We were supposed to eat at the Moroccan restaurant of La Mammounia, partly to continue our quest to sample the best of Moroccan cuisine, and partly to see this famous hotel after its grand renovation.

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A FACELIFT FOR LA MAMMOUNIA

I’d stayed here twelve years ago, you see, when it was still a lovely and light-filled art deco hotel full of history, and before a French designer overhauled it into a rather dark hotel with plush interiors.

But that afternoon, after a Moroccan lunch at Al Fassia, a famous local restaurant, we decided to eat at the Italian restaurant of La Mamounia instead.

At Al Fassia, we’d had tagine again for the nth time, as we wanted to compare the different ways that Morocco’s best restaurants made tagine.

Besides, all Moroccan restaurants have quite a limited menu, so tagine always figures prominently in it.

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TAGINE EVERYDAY IN MOROCCO

We’d been having Moroccan food practically every day so far, and we’d had tagine in almost every Moroccan place we’d been to, to sample the different varieties.

So after our nth tagine, the Travel Companion had said: “I’m all tagine-d out.“

I felt exactly the same way, so it wasn’t a difficult decision to change our booking to La Mammounia’s Italian restaurant instead.

The food at La Mammounia was so-so for the Travel Companion. And even for me, it was just okay. I had a pasta with smoked cheese to start, and then a grilled fish as a main course.

And then we’d shared a dessert of chocolate mousse.

The first course that night

THE FAMOUS GARDENS OF LA MAMMOUNIA

But for some reason I really enjoyed this dinner, as the evening was very fine and we sat on the terrace watching the last glows of sunset fall on the famous gardens of La Mammounia and listening to the sounds of the birds and the distant buzz of Marrakech’s Jnaa al Fnaa square.

The La Mammounia gardens are the very same gardens where Winston Churchill once spent time in, painting watercolors, by the way.

And pretty soon the terrace filled up with other people having dinner, all looking like they were having a good time, on their own versions of a never-ending, and never-endingly eventful Travelife.

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