Steam rises from thermal baths, trams skim the edge of the Danube, and somewhere nearby, the scent of paprika drifts from an open kitchen window. Every path eventually pulled us toward a single destination: a steaming bowl of gulyás, Hungary’s most beloved comfort food.

Here, gulyás is about tradition, warmth, and feeling of being welcomed.

Our search began where the city’s flavors feel most alive.

The Best Goulash in Budapest

Gettó Gulyás

The Jewish Quarter has a pulse that never quite slows. Street art covers aging facades, ruin bars hum with conversation, and café windows glow against the winter dusk. On Wesselényi Street, the sidewalks are narrow and uneven, framed by tall, slightly worn apartment buildings that lean gently into each other, as if sharing secrets. At dusk, light pools in the lower windows and the alley smells faintly of paprika and smoke.

A man leaning in the doorway of a small corner restaurant watched us approach, a cigarette balanced between his fingers.

“You’re going in for the gulyás?” he asked with a grin. “Good. You won’t forget it.”

Satisfaction made to order

Inside, the noise of the neighborhood evaporated. The room felt like a winter refuge — exposed brick walls, vintage lamps, and the soft, rhythmic clink of spoons against ceramic bowls. A server set our order down with quiet confidence.

“This is how we do it on the plains,” she said. “No shortcuts.”

The broth shimmered with paprika and caught the light like stained glass. Csipetke noodles settled into the bottom of the bowl; the beef surrendered the moment the spoon touched it.

A silver-haired woman at the next table leaned toward us.

“Don’t rush,” she said. “Gulyás doesn’t reveal everything at once.”

And it didn’t. It told its story slowly.

Wesselényi utca 18, District VII — Jewish Quarter

Hungarikum Bisztró

The Parliament district is Budapest at its most cinematic. The Danube glints just beyond the imposing Gothic spires; embassy buildings and ministerial halls stand grand and serious, their façades polished like old silver. Yet tucked between all that power and history, on a quiet side street paved in smooth stone, is Hungarikum Bisztró — a restaurant with lace curtains, embroidered tablecloths, and a chalkboard menu that looks handwritten every morning.

When we arrived, a short line had already formed. A couple ahead of us turned and whispered, as if letting us in on something sacred: “We drove from Vienna. This is the best goulash in Budapest. My husband refuses to eat goulash anywhere else.”

Escape to La Esperanza Granada — Andalusia’s most private hacienda for full villa buy-outs

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Home is where the stomach is

Inside, the air was warm with the smell of paprika and roasted onions. The server placed our bowls on the table with reverence.

“This is our national pride,” she said. “If this isn’t good, nothing is.”

The broth here was deeper, rounder — smoky from paprika toasted before simmering. The beef softened at the slightest touch. Bread absorbed the last ribbon of broth like it was sealing a promise.

When the waitress returned, she nodded at the empty bowls.

“You see? Gulyás hates goodbyes.”

Steindl Imre utca 13, District V — Parliament District

Stand25 Bistro

This was our third visit to Stand25 Bistro, home to what many Hungarians consider the best goulash in Budapest. Indeed, it has been excellent each time.

During our previous visits, this popular bistro, where chefs Szulló Szabina & Széll Tamás lead the kitchen, was located inside a food hall just a few steps away from the Hungarian Parliament. It’s a part of the city where you’ll find old Budapest mixed in with something sleek and modern. Glass storefronts sit beside prewar façades, and office workers slip into cafés where chefs hold Michelin stars. Stand25 was in a rather obscure corner in the middle area of the food hall, with an understated entrance — minimalist, clean, confident enough not to announce itself.

Inside was casual but special. Think polished wood, soft lighting, white plates that look more like gallery pieces than tableware. On our last visit, we ordered the same menu as always: French onion soup, goulash and Esterhazy cake. Goulash is served as an appetizer here but portions are big, so we skipped the main course.

The waiter leaned closer, lowering his voice. “Good choices. The goulash is a must,” he said.

The broth glowed with a soft red-gold sheen. Vegetables were cut with geometric precision. Each spoonful unfolded layer by layer — paprika, then sweetness, then depth.

A man sitting at the bar lifted his glass toward us, after observing our giddiness.

“The best goulash in Budapest,” he declared. “Don’t argue.”

We didn’t.

1013 Budapest, Attila út 10

Pozsonyi Kisvendéglő

Újlipótváros felt different from other districts. Located in quieter, more residential neighborhood, it’s the kind of place where greengrocers know their customers by name. Tall trees shade the sidewalks. Mothers push strollers. Bicycles outnumber taxis.

Pozsonyi Kisvendéglő sits on a corner surrounded by bookstores and old apartment blocks with wrought-iron balconies. Through its windows, we could see red-checked tablecloths and handwritten menus propped against pitchers of wildflowers.

Inside, the hum of conversation was low and unhurried. A server approached our table and set down steaming bowls of goulash, assuming we were there precisely for this.

“You look like you need warmth,” he said. “This helps.”

The goulash here has more vegetables and tenderness. Like it was made with a grandmother’s heart.

At the next table, a group of elderly Hungarians played cards. One of them tapped his spoon against the bowl and announced to his friends: “Here lies the meaning of life.”

We believed him.

Radnóti Miklós utca 38, District XIII — Újlipótváros

Before You Order your Goulash

Visitors often assume goulash is a stew. Not here in Hungary. Goulash is a soup — clear, expressive, full of paprika. Pörkölt is the thick, rich stew. One warms you, while the other anchors you. Both deserve their own pilgrimage.

The Perfect Goulash Day in Budapest

• Lunch at Hungarikum Bisztró.
• A walk along the Danube.
• Tram to the Jewish Quarter.
• Dinner at Gettó Gulyás.

Some cities are understood through landmarks. Budapest can be understood through a bowl.

Why Goulash Endures

Goulash is neither about the paprika, nor the beef. Your encounter with this local favorite begins the moment you step in from the cold and warmth finds you.

Some experiences are ladled onto a big bowl right in front of you and it;s gone in half an hour. However the memory stays long after the flight home.

READ MORE ARTICLES ABOUT TRAVELING IN HUNGARY IN TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE

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Before I visited Borago in Santiago, I had to admit my knowledge of Chilean food was limited. I knew the wines well—Cabernets and Carmeneres that had traveled the world—but the cuisine itself was a mystery. If asked, I might have mentioned Chilean sea bass. Yet that name is misleading. It is not bass at all, but Patagonian toothfish from the cold waters near Antarctica. Some reach Chilean shores, though many do not.

THE JOYS OF THE CHILEAN SEA BASS

This fish is coveted by many chefs because it is receptive to a wide variety of seasonings and preparations. It has a great, rich buttery flavor and it’s moist, firm, smooth and tender in texture, with large flakes. You can literally feel and taste its high omega 3 oil content – which is good for the health conscious – and it remains dewy even after cooking.

This fish is coveted by many chefs because it is receptive to a wide variety of seasonings and preparations. It has a great, rich buttery flavor and it’s moist, firm, smooth and tender in texture, with large flakes. You can literally feel and taste its high omega 3 oil content – which is good for the health conscious – and it remains dewy even after cooking.

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(Where vows are framed by mountains and centuries-old olive trees.)

Redefining Chilean Cuisine

Meanwhile, Chilean food sits in a category of its own. It lacks the romance of Argentina’s cuisine or the Japanese-influenced complexity of modern Peru. Argentina has its cult of meat, while Peru speaks fluently in Asian and Andean flavors. Brazil, too, thrives on a melting pot of cultural influences.

Chile, by contrast, has developed more slowly. For years, travelers did not return raving about its cuisine. It was not for lack of ingredients—the country offers remarkable bounty—but rather a tradition that had not yet found its creative expression. However, that picture is changing. Today, thanks to restaurants like Borago, Chilean gastronomy is in a transformational stage. Since Chile’s ascent to the international arena of gastronomy, local chefs have begun to explore and elevate native products in bold new ways.

Chef Rodolfo Guzmán and the Philosophy of Boragó

At the center of this transformation stands Boragó in Santiago, often described as the NOMA of Chile. More than a restaurant, it has become a symbol of the country’s new culinary identity. Its chef, Rodolfo Guzmán, trained at the legendary Mugaritz in San Sebastián, and today he is Chile’s most internationally recognized chef.

Boragó consistently ranks among the top restaurants in Latin America and on the list of the world’s best. It is also one of only two Chilean restaurants to earn this distinction. Yet its reputation is not built on accolades alone. Guzmán has dedicated himself to exploring Chile’s native bounty—wild herbs from the Andes, seaweeds from the Pacific, and fruits foraged in Patagonia.

Every dish reflects that mission. Meals recall ancient techniques, from cooking with hot stones to smoking with native woods. At Boragó, the experience goes beyond fine dining. It is an immersion into the landscapes, history, and traditions that make Chile unique.

From Patagonia to Easter Island: How Boragó Brings Chile to the Table

The chefs of Boragó travel endlessly across Chile, foraging for extraordinary ingredients. Some were completely new to me: rare mushrooms from remote forests, seafood from the icy Patagonian waters, and even occasional treasures from Easter Island. Each dish captures a different corner of Chile’s wild geography.

Chef Rodolfo Guzmán is a humble man, and meeting him was a highlight of my visit. He personally gave me a tour of his kitchen. Unlike so many great restaurant kitchens I have seen over the years, Boragó’s was strikingly quiet. There was no shouting, no tempers—only whispers, focus, and a shared sense of passion. Still, an unmistakable energy filled the room.

Like Noma, the chefs at Boragó serve the dishes themselves. Guzmán included. This makes every course personal, as each chef explains the techniques, ingredients, and inspiration behind the plate.

Boragó in Vitacura: A Sophisticated Start to the Night

Our group arrived promptly for our 8 PM reservation at Boragó. A hostess greeted us with quiet warmth and led us to a table in the center of the main dining room. The restaurant, set in Santiago’s upscale Vitacura district, was sleek and modern yet carried an air of relaxed elegance. Dark woods, soft lighting, and clean lines created a space that felt both sophisticated and approachable.

At first, the room was nearly empty. Dining in Santiago, as in much of Latin America, starts late. For a brief moment, it felt as if we had Boragó to ourselves. The silence was almost luxurious, broken only by the soft clink of glasses and the murmur of staff preparing for the evening ahead. Within half an hour, the mood shifted. Guests began to stream in, their anticipation almost palpable as they made a beeline for their tables. The restaurant came alive, yet without ever losing its poise.

The Endemic Menu at Boragó: Chile on a Plate

As for the eight-course Endemic tasting menu at Boragó, it was bold from the very beginning. The dishes captured the flavors, smells, and textures of the Chilean wilderness.

The evening began with five playful appetizers. We tasted crisp pork skins, a delicate melon jelly infused with golden liqueur, and warm bread paired with a mild “soil” pesto made from dehydrated herbs and squid ink. Each bite arrived in unexpected form—served on rocks, wooden blocks, or tin pails.

On our visit, the menu leaned into Chile’s landscapes. What looked like lumps of dirt turned out to be smoked fish. Black “volcanic rocks” were in fact squid ink dust. These details were more than whimsy; they echoed Chile’s fertile central valley and its many active volcanoes.

Juice Pairing at Boragó: Flavors from the Chilean Wilderness

The Endemic tasting menu at Boragó came with an optional wine pairing. I chose the more unusual juice pairing, a first for me and one of the restaurant’s signatures.

Each juice drew from Chile’s wilderness. Some were made with wild herbs foraged deep inside the country. Others came from evergreen shrubs, salt-marsh plants, or berries gathered high in the Andes. The combinations were unexpected yet remarkably balanced.

Served in elegant wine glasses, the juices looked every bit as refined as fine vintages. Their colors gleamed in the light, and their flavors often echoed the dishes on the plate. The sommelier guided the experience with quiet expertise, turning each glass into an additional layer of flavor and story.

Highlights from Our Boragó Tasting Menu

At Boragó, the menu changes almost daily, so there is little point in focusing on specific dishes. Still, a few from our evening deserve mention.

We began with a newly foraged variety of purslane, unusual in flavor and served on the edge of a rock plate straight from the grill, paired with yogurt. Another highlight was the cremoso de Isla Negra: a squid ink cracker dotted with goat cheese and balanced on fresh sea asparagus. It was as beautiful to look at as it was to taste.

Later came huevos a rescoldo—a slow-cooked egg covered in ash, from a rare breed of chicken that lays silky blue eggs richer than the usual. The kitchen also presented a veal dish, simmered in its own milk for 40 hours until meltingly tender.

However, the dish that stood out most was the congrio frito. A crisp fried fish fillet arrived coated in ash, with a shimmering seaweed dashi poured over it at the table. The result was an entrée both rustic and refined, and the most unforgettable bite of the night.

Inventive Desserts at Boragó: From Atacama to Frozen Glaciers

The medley of desserts at Boragó was as inventive as the courses before it. We began with the rica rica de Atacama: a cookie paired with rica rica–flavored ice cream, cracked to resemble the parched earth of the Atacama Desert. Despite its appearance, the texture was soft and chewy, delivering a delightful surprise. Rica rica itself is a strongly aromatic herb, long used as a local remedy for upset stomachs. Its flavor is bright, citrusy, and reminiscent of lemon verbena—an unexpected yet brilliant way to close the savory portion of the menu.

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The Joy of Frozen Desserts

The finale was nothing short of theatrical. Chef Rodolfo Guzmán appeared with a plate of mint meringues, aptly named frozen glaciers. Infused with liquid nitrogen, they were still smoking as they reached the table.

We were instructed to pop them into our mouths immediately—though I couldn’t resist sneaking a photo first. The result was hilarious and unforgettable: the meringues melted instantly, turning my breath icy and sending white smoke curling from my nostrils like a fire-breathing dragon.

The Boragó Experience in Santiago

Dining at Boragó is unique precisely because it offers flavors and ingredients that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. With its bold creativity and sophisticated use of Chilean products, Boragó reflects the spirit of a new Santiago—cosmopolitan yet rooted in its land. It is not just a restaurant, but the ultimate out-of-the-box dining experience in Chile, and one of the most compelling in all of Latin America.

BORAGO

Read more about the finest restaurants in the world in Travelife Magazine.

Photos courtesy of Borago Restaurant

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Yes, that was the exact phrase a foodie friend had said to me that fateful afternoon in Granada last spring, over lunch in a stylish apartment along the Recogidas street of the city, just past the intersection of Camino de Ronda. In fact, his exact words were: “When you are in Seville someday soon, you must eat at Manzil because this will the best new restaurant in Seville.”

In fact, he added: “I’m quite sure it will be the next restaurant to receive a Michelin star.”

This left me sufficiently intrigued. Then as fate would have it, I found myself in Seville on business that very same weekend. The trip was completely unplanned and unexpected, but the name Manzil was still in my head so of course it was our first choice for a good meal in Seville.

LUNCH WAS MEANT TO BE

Manzil was barely a month old when we were there so reservations were not so difficult. But neither was it empty. In fact, for a new restaurant run by a chef without a track record in Seville, it was actually quite full. Several tables in the main area were occupied and there was a lively party in the private room.

The restaurant is decorated in an eclectic way with a rather formal entrance and vestibule, playful pen-and-ink type sketches and a theme of blue as background for the tables set in the Scandinavia style: no fuss, and as minimal and streamlined as possible.

I booked the equivalent of the Chef’s Table because I love to see chefs at work. I’m not sure if it really is the official Chef’s Table, but it certainly gave us a wonderful view of Chef Juan Andres Morilla and his team creating an array of tantalizing dishes.

Our first course was a nice nod to the pre-lunch vermut tradition so beloved in Andalucia. We were asked to stand up from our table and literally hang around the plating station as if we were at our neighborhood bar on a weekday, playing hooky from work. What fun this was, especially with a vermouth in hand.

In keeping with custom, two glasses of vermouth awaited us along with a stylish tray of three bite-sized tapas: tiny croissants laced with anchovies, incredibly flavorful olives, and a single piping hot croqueta each made of codfish.

Everything was beautiful and just right, and I could not make up my mind which I liked best. All I knew is that I wanted seconds or thirds. But it certainly set the tone for the rest of the afternoon. We were only enjoying the appetizers and already it felt like the weekend had started.

BEEF TARTARE ON A STEAMED BUN

The next course was a testament to Chef Juan Andres’ skills in my opinion, as I do not usually eat beef tartare. But when his team set a pretty plate of it in front of me, lying like a jewel on top of tiny steamed Chinese bun, I had to eat it — and I enjoyed it thoroughly. The steamed Chinese bun was a particularly nice touch as — who expects to have it with beef tartare, after all?

THE SEA AND THE EARTH ON A PLATE

Then came a simple dish that was perhaps one of my favorites because, symbolically, it felt like a fusion of everything interesting in life. A raw oyster and a slice of raw white fish cut sashimi style were arranged very prettily on a white plate amidst a pureed sauce of vegetables and spices that reminded me of the sands of Arabia. It was a nice combination of sea and soil, as well as East and West.

NOT YOUR EVERYDAY GARDEN VARIETY

The salad that came next — I am assuming it was a salad — was equally intriguing. Chunks of cauliflowers, cucumbers, and berries were laid out prettily on a clear bowl so that the colors might pop out. Then, just as I was about to fork over a mouthful, one of the waitstaff came over with a small pitcher of green juice that reminded me of the liquid dinners I used to have at a spa in Thailand. He poured the entire pitcher onto the bowl, thus giving it the most authentic feeling of a fresh forest with all its intermingling tastes and sensations.

COMBINATIONS TO REMEMBER FOR A LONG TIME

What came next, I will certainly remember for a very long time because the next two two dishes consisted of ingredients I do not usually associate together. With the exception of the beef, I normally I do not eat them either.

First came two simple plates — Chef Juan Andres is obviously very much influenced by the aesthetics of Scandinavia and Japan, which incidentally are quite similar. One with a luscious slice of beef adorned only with small carrots and hazelnuts, and the other with a slice of cooked tuna and a boiled shrimp.

As is common in Spain, the beef had very little fat as Spaniards like the meaty flavor and chewiness of lean meat. This is the exact opposite of what I usually enjoy so my expectations for this dish were not high.

However, lo and behold. Thanks to Chef Juan Andres, I discovered the joys of lean Spanish meat cooked rare and served with few trappings. It was indeed a joy to chew and to taste, and even now as I write this 9000 kilometers away, I suddenly have the urge for a good lean steak.

DUCK AS A CONVERSATION STOPPER

Then came the piece de resistance. And I mean this in every way for I neither like duck very much — it is not the first thing I will choose on the menu — nor do I jump up and down at the thought of duck prepared rare. However, the smiling confidence of the chef when he came over with our main course left me with no other option than to try this dish he’d worked so hard on.

What luck that his charm had persuaded me to lift my fork to my mouth instead of trying to shove an uneaten plate of food to one side as part of some form of camouflage. Every dish we tried was remarkable but this was definitely the dark horse that won the derby.

Chopped and seasoned duck meat, very raw, lay opposite a rice cracker wrapper flavored with lots of soy sauce and with more duck meat inside. The idea was to eat the duck meat and the rice cracker wrapper together so that one felt the genuine raw flavors of the duck adequately while having this same rawness cushioned by the comfort of soy sauce and the sensation of crispness.

READ ABOUT LUNCH AT EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA

Even now, I am wishing I could fly to Seville to have again this dish that once not too long ago I never would have liked. How many people might be able to say: “I would like to fly to Seville to have raw duck once more?” Very few can say so, I am assuming, unless they have had a meal at Manzil.

SHARP AND SWEET TO END

After this highlight, the desserts were almost an afterthought for me, but not rightly so. We had a lemon curd sorbet with remnants of crusts to cleanse the palate and a treat of a caramel wafer sandwiched between chocolate ice cream and a chocolate cookie. Both simply done and served without fanfare, but ever so refined in taste and concept.

ABOUT CHEF JUAN ANDRES MORILLA

After enjoying this meal at his new restaurant, it occurred to me that Chef Juan Andres is the exactly the kind of creative who everyone will love. He pushes the boundaries just enough to open your world but without making you feel uncomfortable. Our lunch was long and enjoyable, and so worth the trip to Seville on the kind of rainy weekend that made sightseeing impossible. In this sense, Manzil was the perfect refuge,

Chef Juan Andres is not even a Seville native, by the way. He moved from Granada to make his mark in this larger culinary scene, and it seems that he is perfect exactly where he is right now.

Restaurante Manzil. Calle Alfonso XII, Seville. Telephone :  +34 854 74 59 06

THE VERDICT

The tasting menu is wonderful and the restaurant ambiance is friendly and welcoming.

Great value for money. Go before it gets its Michelin star and the world discovers it.

READ ABOUT ONE OF SPAIN’S BEST NEW HOTELS

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AWARD-WINNING COOKING

Goldie is the very stylish restaurant of the four-star boutique Hotel Nautilus, and it’s claim to fame is that it’s run by a young, handsome and charming Czech chef who has won many culinary prizes for his prowess.

Martin Svatek is a member of the Czech Republic’s national culinary team, and he often acts as a culinary ambassador of goodwill for the country, bringing the gastronomic delights of the Czech Republic to other countries. As soon as we walked in, we knew were in for a unique culinary experience.

The restaurant itself is very nicely done up with simple furniture and modern artworks – just the right kind of atmosphere for the most elegant restaurant in this part of the country. Martin came out to welcome us and to talk us through his menu of Czech specialties and Western meals.

Of course we wanted to try the local specialties as we can have award-winning Western meals everywhere else in the world – and here at Goldie, the Czech specialties are rabbit, duck and trout, all locally sourced and personally prepared by Martin himself.

A TRADITIONAL CZECH FAMILY RECIPE

Mushroom soup based on a family recipe

A and I ordered the duck while S had the rabbit, which is supposed to be the restaurant’s piece de resistance. And to start, we tried Martin’s fresh mushroom soup.

Martin told us about his mushroom soup: “That’s my grandmother’s recipe. I’ve been doing it with a slightly different version here in this restaurant for the last eight years.”

This is a pate appetizer that was also very good.

The mushrooms had been picked fresh. Have I told you how Czechs just love wandering into forests and picking mushrooms for a fresh meal at lunch and dinner? It seems to be a well-loved past-time here. Even our guide talks about mushroom-picking everytime we drive through a forest – and one of these days she’s promised to stop in a forest and give us a basic lesson on mushroom picking.

Martin’s version of mushroom soup was very nice, but heavy on the cream. I usually like mine lighter, but this was indeed very good. I asked him what he put in it, and he said: “Chicken stock, cream, celery root and a whole lot of other vegetables.”

CABBAGE WITH EVERY MEAL

This was my duck…

Then came the duck. What a wonderful duck that was. We all stopped talking for a moment to concentrate on the food as we were in raptures over the duck. Meanwhile, my companion said her rabbit was the best she’s ever had. As this is Czech cuisine, our rabbit came crispy on the outside and tender and tasty inside, and on a bed of spiced red cabbage and spiced potato dumplings that seem mandatory in every Czech main dish.

This was S’s rabbit…

After the main course, Martin took us to his spotless kitchen to see how everything is prepared. He had two large vats of soup stock boiling, and he said this would be boiling for about two days. One pot had duck bones and duck meat in it, while the other had beef and vegetables. I almost couldn’t believe that these would go just to soup stock — they certainly looked good enough to eat.

We also watched him prepare our desserts. I’ve been quite good about desserts on this trip, and usually I’ve only had a little bit after dinner. But as the food so far had been very good, I declared to everyone that I was having my own dessert. So I ordered Martin’s favorite chocolate ball dessert which came with mascarpone cream and ice cream.

We all declared that this was the best meal so far in 2.5 days of eating in the Czech Republic, although I must point out that everyday we’ve had very good food so far for dinner as well.

THE BEST OF CZECH FOOD

I’ve deliberately stuck to Czech food for this trip although we’re trying everything from the fanciest places in the country to provincial taverns in the middle of nowhere. My only requirement is that they be “best of breed,” meaning the very best meal wherever we are. It doesn’t matter what kind of restaurants they are as long as we get to have very good food.

This was certainly one of my most memorable meals over countless visits to the Czech Republic to unearth its wonderful food culture.

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One hot summer day, we traveled thousands of kilometer for a barbecue to remember at Yanagiya. We flew to the city of Nagoya in central Japan and stayed overnight, to take a local train for one hour to a small town in Gifu Prefecture. Here, a van waited to take us on a half-hour drive through rice fields and narrow streets for lunch at a farmhouse on top of a hill.

Yanagiya is a restaurant so deeply in the Japanese countryside that it looks like just another village house. Yet it isn’t.

ROAD TO FAME

For years now, in spite of its location and its rather formidable price tag, Yanagiya is the top restaurant in Japan, according to Tabelog, a well-respected dining website followed by serious food enthusiasts. Thus, many call this the best restaurant in the world since Japan has the most stringent dining standards on the planet.

Arriving with great expectations, we took our shoes off. And then we followed a lady in a yukata into one of the private tatami rooms where a seating for four is set up around an open-fire pit.

SIMPLE IS HARD WORK

Yanagiya may look disarmingly simple at first glance. But the family that runs it knows how to create impact; and this may partly explain how a seemingly ordinary country restaurant created a buzz on the international stage. Even Rene Redzepi of Noma has done the long trek to this holy grail of dining.

Meanwhile, foreign foodies continue to despair over the difficulty of getting reservations; the restaurant rarely takes calls, and even more rarely accepts new customers without an introduction. All this elusiveness, combined with an artfully created artless meal, has resulted in world fame.

BARBECUE TO REMEMBER

So in the irori (an open-fire sand pit), they coated eight river fish on sticks with salt, then staked it into the ground. This provided an interesting contrast as farmhouses with irori are symbols of old world Japan.

Then the youngest son of the family came in to begin cooking our meal — or rather, curating our experience.

“My grandfather started our restaurant business,” he said, not looking up and all the while expertly turning the fish so that these all cooked equally. “But it was my father who began the irori tradition. One of our customers at a local bank suggested this to him.”

THE ART OF APPRECIATION

The river fish, a Japanese favorite called ayu, was grilled perfectly. This summer delicacy includes a pungent sauce of herbs and vinegar and then eaten from head down.

In line with Japan’s wabi sabi philosophy, the taste of ayu is so subtle that many locals expect foreign diners to miss its merits; but our band of hardy diners enjoyed every morsel. That day, we ate ayu in three ways including deep-fried in a tempura batter. Everything was delicious.

NATURE IN FRONT OF US

However, the piece de resistance is grilled game, which Yanagiya is famous for. Yanagiya sources its wild meat from the forests and mountains of Gifu. They only purchase the remains of animals that have been killed cleanly. This means focusing only on those shot in the head so that the blood of wounds does not spill over and taint the natural flavor of the meat.

Don’t underestimate the results of this choice; the game meat we ate was the very best. There was no aftertaste; in fact, the meat was way better than beef.

It was summer when we visited so the game was mostly wild boar and venison, which are perfect options for novice game aficionados like myself. I ate everything and I could even have ordered another round of the venison because it was that good.

SEAMLESS MEAL, HAPPY ENDING

However, everything operates like clockwork at Yanagiya, leaving no room for error, change, or extra orders. So the meal ended at exactly 3 PM, which is when the entrepreneurial family assembles outside to wave everyone off and the van takes diners back to the train station.

Interestingly, Yanagiya didn’t serve a proper dessert save for some kind of small sweet at the end. So everyone headed straight for the mini-grocery at the train station to buy a US$1 ice cream to cap three hours of salty, flavorful, and wonderful at the best restaurant in the world. 

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One summer not too long ago, we traveled to one end of the earth to sample the best lobsters in a simple wooden shack in a tiny town.

DRIVING AROUND ICELAND

Eager to explore the extreme countryside on a trip to Iceland, we drove along a desolate coastline about two hours out of Reykjavik. This area was made even more dramatic by endless craters  over the horizon, created over time by the inflows of lava from one volcanic eruption after another.

The result was a surreal 360-degree landscape. The barren earth looked like the surface of the moon on one side. Meanwhile, on the other, the gusty winds created ripples on an otherwise calm sea. 

A QUIET TOWN AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD

However, hunger pangs eventually set in after hours of driving. As luck would have it, however, we ended up in a tiny town. It was basically one quiet street with brightly colored wooden houses interspersed with pocket gardens and old-fashioned picket fences.

In another universe, this would be a regular street in a slight time warp — perhaps in the 1960s. But in that part of Iceland, this was actually a significant outpost of civilization. And the restaurant we found looked like the hub of social activity for miles. There was nothing much else except for a tin shack that sold cold drinks and chocolate bars.

WHERE TO EAT LOBSTERS IN ICELAND

The restaurant at the end of town was simple and clean. As Icelanders like to drink, it had an extensive bar that took up half the room. There were also several long tables with wooden benches, and token shells and a fisherman’s net adorned the bright red wall.

LUNCH BY THE SEA IN ICELAND

However that lunch will forever remain in my memory as the time I tasted the best lobsters I have ever had in my #Travelife. Fresh off the fishing boat, these were cooked with a slap and a dash in butter, garlic and chopped herbs.

Then the cook dished these into a tin pail, accompanied by potatoes, a basket of bread and little plates of marinated cucumbers and tomatoes picked just that morning from the owner’s greenhouse.

The lobsters were small and sweet, and ever so tasty. So all conversation at our table stopped while we pried the flesh off the shells.  We needed no words between us, as we understood very clearly that this was a meal unlike any other in the world.

We savored it solo and slowly, so as to remember every morsel and every moment for a very long time. 

Read more about traveling around Iceland in Travelife Magazine.

THE BEST PLACE TO GET MARRIED IN SPAIN

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The people of Argentina have an infectious pride when it comes to their food, and the time spent chatting over meals sets the stage for some truly special eating experiences. You don’t get the typical South American spices in Argentina as food is served “au naturel.” In fact, critics have described Argentine cuisine as conservative, but this is the way the Argentines love their food.

IT’S ALL IN THE ARGENTINA MEAT

Beef dishes exhibit the undeniable quality of Argentina reared meat; and when combined with the surprising simplicity of its preparations, with seasoning rarely more than salt and pepper, it rightfully deserves its lofty reputation. You just need to remember a few key words: jugoso (very rare), a ounto (medium rare), or bien cocido (well done).  

The cuts in Argentina are thicker than elsewhere in the world. And the focus is on places that source their meat from grass-fed cattle.  In contrast to the common beef from the grain-fed cows, Argentina beef has better taste and is easier to digest.  

Argentine beef is normally charcoal-grilled on a parilla. Most are flavorful on their own, but this doesn’t prevent restaurants from offering chimichurri sauce to complement the meat. Although if the meat is good, this sauce isn’t necessary. The servings in Argentina are huge, but it isn’t a faux pax to share with several people.

WHERE TO GO FOR BEEF IN ARGENTINA

For those looking to get their Atkins diets up and running, I would suggest a visit to an estancia outside Buenos Aires in Argentina, as well as to one of the many parillas operating in the city.

If you have time for just one steak dinner in Buenos Aires, head to La Cabrera in the Palermo Viejo district. Much has already been written about this parilla and it has become very popular after being highly recommended by many guidebooks, so the ensuing tourist rush to eat here has been phenomenal. 

STILL THE SAME PLACE

Fortunately, it has managed to elude the downward spiral many such places with newfound fame usually encounter. In fact, a steady stream of portenos – as the locals are called – continue to favor this place, so the quality has been preserved and waitstaff continue. 

Their tradition of service and attention. If you come early (before 10 PM), in all likelihood English will be the dominant spoken word. The atmosphere changes during the later hours when the locals arrive, and Spanish once again fills the air. 

The other shocker is the bill. With a looming economic crisis and a severe shortage of dollars, most restaurants in Buenos Aires are open to negotiating the exchange rate for cash transactions, and it isn’t uncommon to receive a rate 70% above official bank guidelines. Dinner that evening for five hungry people set us back less than half the amount it would cost for a similar meal in Paris for one person.

In any case, there is always a long line outside, with some diners holding champagne glasses, and others working up an appetite while patiently waiting, with the wafting smells of grilled beef making the time seem interminable. 

Don’t let all this waiting turn you off, though. The sidewalks outside La Cabrera are a great place to people-watch, with sharply dressed locals and more casually attired foreigners chatting. In fact, this place is so in vogue that the proprietor has had to open another one a few doors away, identical in experience to the original.

THE LA CABRERA EXPERIENCE

At La Cabrera, the crisp white table cloths are laid out but without the usual stuffy feeling.  In fact, it is slightly cramped and a bit noisy.  Each order comes with about a dozen side orders, ranging from mashed potatoes with Dijon mustard, tapenade, garlic cloves in red wine, pureed broccoli or squash, apple sauce, tartar sauce, lentils, corn, and avocado mash, just to name a few. 

All these constitute a meal in itself, and yet you also have a choice of about two dozen different cuts of meat. When in doubt, however, the bifo de ojo or rib eye is always a good choice.  

Starters are completely unnecessary, although we did try to “counterbalance” the steak with generous orders of arugula salad and tomatoes.  A cursory look around told me that most tables opted for La Cabrera’s legendary starters of chorizo or goat’s cheese provolone. The service was slick, despite the broken English of the waitstaff and our halting Spanish.

TASTE THE DIFFERENCE

But the beef is clearly the star of the show. Argentine cows eat grass, the diet they were born to eat, making them healthier. The steaks are leaner than the grain-fed variety, but they are just as juicy as any and with a better flavor profile which was very noticeable and which I attributed to the cow’s natural diet. It had a beefier, “heartier,” and more intense taste. 

DINNER AT LA CABRERA

It’s always odd to me when people complain about the taste of grass-feed beef. This is how beef should taste, as the cows eat what they should eat. Many places don’t have that kind of delicious steak, but the bifo de ojo at La Cabrera was perfect.  

ARGENTINA’S HEARTLAND

The pampas are also worth visiting for a day trip. These are fertile evergreen grasslands that constitute Argentina’s most successful agricultural region.

There are some good estancias (haciendas) in and around the pampas; and many within a two-hour drive from Buenos Aires and definitely worth the effort. Watch the gauchos display their wares, sample authentic empanadas with wine, and then try the asado (barbecue). 

At an asado, the gauchos will feed you sausages and ribs, and often everything else but the lungs and the heart of the cow. And at least you know where your animals are coming from, what they are eating and how they arrive on your plate. 

EVERYTHING IS ON THE GRILL

An asado lunch at an estancia is not just a meal but a cultural initiation. Few things are as quintessentially Argentine as this sacred ritual of Argentine families that goes well beyond steaks to include other cuts of beef, sausages, offal, pork and chicken. Argentines clearly have none of the squeamishness of other nationalities over less desirable cuts of meat.

At an asado, the gauchos are in charge of the grill. This also includes the placing of charcoal underneath and the using of sea salt. They prefer to season before cooking and to keep the temperature low so cooking is slow. 

They will feed you sausages and ribs, and often everything else but the lungs and the heart of the cow. And, at least at an asado in an estancia, you know where your animals are coming from, what they are eating and how they arrive on your plate. 

While you’re there, you can even watch the cattle wander free in these naturally occurring grasslands and taste the difference. Happy cows make for healthier and tastier beef. 

Then, after all that beef, wine and the gauchos, there is still tango, soccer and Evita to discover. What an amazing place.

Text by JEROME VELASCO.

Read more about Argentina in Travelife Magazine.

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Some years back, I flew all the way from Asia to Los Angeles to board the Regent Seven Seas Explorer cruise ship on its inaugural weekend cruise to Mexico. I flew to LA via Taipei on EVA Airways on a Thursday and by Monday night I was back at LAX again to return to Asia.

The cruise itself was for two nights, from Saturday to Monday morning. Literally a quickie trip to Mexico. After that weekend sail, at the Port of Los Angeles on that Monday morning, we got off the pretty jaw-dropping Regent Seven Seas Explorer cruise ship at 8 AM and headed straight for our hotel just off Beverly Hills.

We were flying back to Asia at midnight so we checked into an IHG hotel downtown to take a nap and freshen up before the long flight back home. I also wanted to get some shopping done as LA is retail central after all. So after dropping our bags at the hotel, off we went to an upscale mall nearby to check out the sales.

I LOST THAT SHOPPING FEELING

Interestingly, I didn’t buy anything. Perhaps it had something to do with my first ever visit to a Target store just before boarding the ship. Suddenly, everything seemed expensive elsewhere. I also had a pretty miraculous epiphany then, realizing I needed for nothing and I actually had everything I honestly wanted. The rest of the stuff on my wishlist are things money can’t buy. Things you can’t find in a shopping mall.

Returning to the hotel, my companion asked: “What shall we do for lunch?”

A REALLY GOOD BURGER FOR LUNCH

It was 2 PM and all I could think about was getting a very good burger. I don’t really eat burgers, but we were in Los Angeles, after all. And isn’t that what people do when they’re in LA? My first choice was In ‘N Out. Not fancy at all but certainly iconic California since you can’t find In ‘N Out anywhere else. . Of course we had to go.

IN ‘N OUT IS A POPULAR HAMBURGER CHAIN FOUNDED BY HARRY AND ESTHER SNYDER IN CALIFORNIA IN 1948.

However, our hotel concierge said: “The nearest one is about 15 to 20 minutes by hotel car.”

Well, we were leaving in a few hours and I didn’t really want to spend any time in a car, having just spent a weekend in a ship and way too many hours in airplanes. All of 36 hours in LA and 24 hours in Mexico and then back on a plane for Asia. So I said: “Forget it. Let’s just do room service burgers.”

ROOM SERVICE SURPRISES

I had very low expectations for the room service burger, especially as the concierge didn’t even bother to mention it. But we were hungry and lazy. So we returned to the room, picked up the phone to order the burgers, and then turned on the TV. When the burgers eventually came, I was speechless. They were incredibly good even if they cost a small fortune compared to the fast food burgers.

THE BEST BURGER IN LA

In fact, I would venture to say that this particular room service burger was probably the best burger I’ve ever had. It was cooked perfectly medium rare, and it had ranch dressing, cheddar cheese, and super crispy bacon. And everything was arranged very nicely on a slightly sweet brioche bun. Again, neither am I a burger person nor a bread person. But it’s a testatment to how good the burger was that I ate everything.

SAVING THE BEST SURPRISE FOR LAST

However, it was only when we checked out of our hotel at 8 PM to head for LAX airport that I realized we had really just had the best burgers in Los Angeles. At the front desk, as we handed back the room keys, I mentioned to Dan, the guy at the counter, that the hot water tap in the bathtub hadn’t been working so I’d had to use the shower instead of having a long hot bath before flying.

Dan then asked me: “Did you report it?”

I replied: “Nope. I couldn’t be bothered.” Then I added: “We only used the room for eight hours, some of it spent checking out a shopping mall, so I didn’t want workmen repairing a faucet for half of that time.”

Besides it wasn’t really a big deal, but I thought I’d mention it for the next guest. Then what do you know? Dan the Man said: “Well, the least I can do is comp your room service bill to make up for the inconvenience.” Wow. The best things in life really are free after all.

READ ABOUT FINE DINING IN JAPAN AMIDST COVID19

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Niseko is world-famous for its powder snow and luxury ski resorts, but when it comes to dining, one name rises above them all: Molière Montagne at the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono. Widely regarded as the best restaurant in Niseko, it brings the prestige of French haute cuisine to the snowy mountains of Hokkaido.

Created by the team behind Sapporo’s legendary three-Michelin-starred Molière, this outpost combines world-class technique with the seasonal bounty of Hokkaido — seafood from icy northern waters, mountain vegetables, and pristine dairy from local farms. The result is more than a meal: it’s a culinary performance that has redefined what fine dining in Niseko can be.

Molière Montaigne : Fine Dining in Niseko

The stage for this gastronomic experience could not be more spectacular. Nestled in the snow-covered mountains of Niseko, the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono exudes understated luxury. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame views of white slopes and pine forests, while the interiors balance sleek, modern lines with natural textures that reflect Hokkaido’s landscape.

It’s the kind of backdrop that elevates every course, where fine dining becomes inseparable from place. At Molière Montagne, the restaurant feels both cosmopolitan and deeply rooted in its alpine surroundings.

Chef Hiroshi Nakamichi’s Restaurant at the Park Hyatt Niseko

We dined at Molière Montagne, the newest venture of Michelin three-star chef Hiroshi Nakamichi, one of Japan’s most respected culinary figures. Known for elevating Hokkaido’s local ingredients to international acclaim, Nakamichi has created a restaurant in Niseko that mirrors his philosophy: refined, original, and deeply tied to the land.

This sister restaurant to Sapporo’s iconic Molière brings his artistry into the heart of Niseko’s luxury resort scene. Under his vision, the Niseko outpost has already become a destination in itself, attracting food lovers who travel as much for the cuisine as for the snow.

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Fine Dining in Niseko

Our meal began with an array of artful appetizers, each plate crafted to delight both the eye and palate. The presentation was so striking that for a moment, no one at the table wanted to disturb it.

Then came the first showstopper: an entire shellfish cloaked in a crust of black squid, its dramatic appearance matched by its rich, oceanic flavors. Conversation stopped as we took the first bite, each of us immersed in the sheer brilliance of the dish.

Next, Nakamichi sent out a plate that embodies his style: grilled pork on the bone, served on a bed of fresh tree branches. The smoky aroma of pine mingled with the tender meat, creating a dish that was not only delicious but evocative of Hokkaido’s forests.

Every course balanced precision with imagination. Western in technique yet Japanese in sensibility, Nakamichi’s cooking transcends categories, making Molière Montagne unlike any other restaurant in Niseko.

About Chef Nakamichi of Hokkaido

The food was excellent as it has always been. Chef Nakamichi is known for using the best ingredients from around Hokkaido, but in a most original way. His cooking is neither quite Western nor Japanese, although the original Moliere in Sapporo is known as a French restaurant. After receiving three Michelin stars, I believe Chef Nakamichi’s cooking evolved superbly.

We began with an assortment of Instagram-worthy appetisers and then went on to two main courses — both so good that all conversation stopped at the table. To start we each had an entire shellfish covered in a crust of black squid.

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Signature Dishes of Moliere

The chef then sent us a dish charateristic of Nakamichi: grilled meat — this time juicy pork on bone — arrived, arranged tantalizingly on a bed of fresh tree branches.

He also made the famous cheese with berries dessert of Chef Nakamichi at the end of the evening. I’ve eaten this dessert at the Sapporo restaurant so many times. Seeing this again felt like a sign that normal times are not too far off.

Dining at Molière Montagne at the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono is more than a luxurious meal. It is a seamless blend of artistry, atmosphere, and terroir, shaped by Chef Hiroshi Nakamichi’s singular vision. Every dish tells the story of Hokkaido — its seas, its mountains, its seasons — yet carries the refinement of global haute cuisine.

Few restaurants manage to capture both place and perfection with such ease. That is why Molière is not just a dining option in Niseko; it is the best restaurant in Niseko, and one of the most memorable fine dining experiences in all of Japan.

Read more about the best hotels in Hokkaido in Travelife Magazine

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I had decided on the spur of the moment to go back to Vietnam to eat my way through Saigon. It was hot and sultry in late August, and I was in a state of constant dripping-dampness. It was a tad bothersome, but what the heck, we eat humidity for breakfast in the Philippines.

The flavours of Vietnam

As humid as Vietnam is at this time of the year, the food and flavors are always fresh everywhere you eat. Vietnam is a great Asian street food country in the vein of Taiwan, Singapore, and Thailand. 

In fact, I think Vietnamese cuisine is all about street food, the only difference being the relative comfort and price of the eating venues you choose.

Where to eat street food in Saigon

You could be in a relatively expensive air-conditioned Brad Pitt-frequented restaurant; or you could be on sidewalks or in markets, standing or seated on low colored plastic chairs or folding metal stools, spending mere shekels for a thoroughly satisfying meal.

Yes, they do have Western restaurants and fast food joints in Saigon, but these would be an absolute waste of calorie-count unless you are in desperate need of a pizza or mediocre French food.

When in Vietnam on a food trip, you must eat as the Vietnamese do. You will not go wrong with the multitude of freshly-cooked seafood, grilled chicken or pork, meat-laced pho, or sun-ripened fruits and farm-fresh
vegetables, all of which are outstanding.

BEST STREET FOOD PLACES IN SAIGON

• Ben Thanh Market
• Binh Tay Market
• Banh Xeo 46A
• Phan Van Han Street
• Vin Khanh Street
• Quan Thuy

Conscious of time but not of our waistlines, we made it a point to stop anywhere the food smelled and looked good: sidewalk vendors with food carts or baskets, any kind of market, and of course, night markets, food streets, and restaurants.

Lucky for us, every place we tasted was worth discovering. Read more about traveling around Vietnam in Travelife Magazine.

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