Pécs is a city full of intricate and colorful buildings around a town center that visitors travel to see. Yet there we were, walking away from it in the heat, led by Norbert, our host and a man with a great eye for art. He does not believe in taking cars in his city, and rightly so.

“Everywhere is walking distance in Pécs, and it’s best to see everything on foot,” he told us. Just then, we were on our way to the Zsolnay Museum and Factory, found along the outskirts of Pécs.

Zsolnay porcelain in Pécs

But we were city girls so the trek was the equivalent of our cardio program, made bearable by our excitement to see the masterpieces of Zsolnay. Since our arrival in Pécs, Norbert had been raving about the beauty of Zsolnay porcelain. And now all these discussions had readied us for our visit to this mecca for lovers of Hungarian porcelain.

Among connoisseurs, Zsolnay is a name that is synonymous with the finest aesthetics and craftsmanship of Hungary. And here, the museum of Pécs is ground zero for its glorious past. No other museum has assembled such a collection of pre-1914 (the beginning of World War I) pieces of Zsolnay.

The pieces in the collection are all perfect, by the way, because the man who purchased these pieces insisted on only buying the best and the undamaged. This Hungarian-American collector then bequeathed his pieces to the city of Pécs.

Inside the Zsolnay family home

Today the city has embellished this legacy by turning the neighborhood into a cultural district. Now it is one of the top tourist attractions of Pécs. The city did everything right. They placed the museum in the original Zsolnay home.

Then they promoted the ornate family mausoleum, and revived the workshops so that visitors can observe the process of making a porcelain piece. However, the details of production are so confidential that taking photos is not allowed.

We also found a chocolate store and a stylish company called 1861 that has been making gloves since the 19th century. But of course the museum is the piece de resistance. It is just impossible to find so many exquisite pieces of Zsolnay even in the best antique stores of Budapest.

And even after Norbert’s crash course on the finesse of these works, I was completely unprepared for the onslaught of styles, colors, and inspirations that the Zsolnay family worked with to create masterpieces that still leave people breathless with delight over 100 years later.

The finest antique porcelain in Hungary

I walked through room after room of porcelain encompassing the various periods of Zsolnay. Each one left me more breathless than the last. One room held objects that represented the foray of the family into the art nouveau style.

The use of eosin in porcelain

Then there were pieces that reflected the innovative usage of eosin, a material whose composition is kept completely secret. It gives pieces a deep luster unlike any other.

By the end of my visit, I was in love with Zsolnay and the lost world of 19th century grace it represented. I was even ready to take my commitment one step further by selecting a not inexpensive piece from the factory shop to bring home as a souvenir of Hungary.

After seeing the pre-loved antique pieces of Zsolnay, however, the brand new jars and bowls in the sho seemed lifeless to me. As for me, I was looking for pieces with soul, and not just a trademark at the bottom.

Porcelain business card holders

Norbert observed my quandary, and said, “I have two Zsolnay business card holders which I love.” I did not ask him whether he owned the circa 2019 versions or the antique ones, but his phone does not even have WhatsApp or Viber; so I thought it unlikely that anything in his home would be new.

“I’m looking for character,” I told Norbert, “and I guess that comes with age.” The fact that dozens if not hundreds of pairs of hands had poured water from a Zsolnay pitcher made in the 1880s made all the difference in the feel of a piece to me.

“I’m looking for character in the Zsolnay porcelain I buy, and I guess character comes with age,” I told my host, Norbert.

The best restaurant in Pécs

Our hearts saturated with art, my attention now turned to nourishment for the body, and ironically I wanted simple honest Hungarian food in a city so prettily and ornately embellished as Pécs.

“I would like a very good lunch,” I said to Norbert, who then took us to his favorite bistro. It also happened to be one of the best restaurants in Pécs.

Run by three young men out of the ground floor of an ancient shop house, it is one of the best restaurants in Pécs. Famished, we ordered a tray of cold cuts plus the requisite pork cutlet and then sat down to enjoy the feeling of being in Pécs with a bottle of wine.

A serendipitous moment

On our way back to the hotel, we passed by stylish restaurants, and the Palatinus Hotel. The latter is the most historic hotel in Pécs. This three-star hotel has obviously seen better days, but its past glory is still evident. It’s covered on the outside with Zsolnay tiles. Also, you can still see the art nouveau room where Bela Bartok once performed.

SERENDIPITY AND AN ANTIQUE STORE IN PECS

Then entirely by chance we saw an antique store, messy on the outside and so dark inside that we initially hesitated to enter. However, several shiny objects caught our eye so we decided to tiptoe in. This was how we found ourselves face-to-face with bespectacled old man behind a wooden desk, observing us inquiringly. He most likely assumed we thought his store was a thrift shop.

RELATED CONTENT: Buying local porcelain at a weekend market in Hungary

But it was a proper antique store, and by the window two exquisite Zsolnay vases stood. These were the kind of 19th century pieces I wanted. One was short and squat with filigreed handles, while the other was tall and graceful with cut-outs at the edges. Both were painted with flowers as faint and delicate as watercolors lined with gold.

BUYING PORCELAIN IN HUNGARY

The negotiations in a mixture of English and hand signals, took 30 minutes. During this time, the proprietor’s cousin, who learned English as a college student, rushed over to smoothen out the international relations.

Then she explained: “My cousin gets these pieces from families around Pécs. They usually keep these for generations until finally they need the money. But these kinds of old flawless Zsolnay are so rare that you will probably never see another one again.”

Even before she said this, I already made up my mind to take these pieces of Hungary back home with me. I already knew that these would add just the right dash of elegance on the sideboard of my dining room.

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Swiss-born Anton Mosimann has lived in London for over 40 years, receiving the Order of the British Empire (OBE) along the way. His passion for food and his zest for life continues to fuel his creativity, evident in his culinary masterpieces.

COOKING FOR ROYALTY

He has cooked for Queen Elizabeth II herself, and her family, including the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. His Mosimann’s Club remains one of London’s most prestigious dining establishments.

Last year, the Mosimann Collection was launched at the César Ritz Colleges in Le Bouveret, Switzerland. Chef Anton’s private collection is composed of thousands of interesting culinary curio such as rare cookbooks, unusual kitchen utensils, royal menu cards and works of art. The collection also chronicles his life and serves as a valuable resource and an inspiration to the many students of the Swiss Education Group.

WHERE TO EAT IN LONDON

Read his top recommendations for London’s hot spots.

My LAST BEST MEAL in London was chicken feet at Plum Valley. It’s a Chinese restaurant where they serve two kinds of chicken feet. One is Thai style, off the bone, and I love it. The other one is in a black bean sauce. I prefer the Thai style because it’s a bit spicy.    

MY FAVORITE MARKETS for grocery shopping are Borough Market and
the Pimlico Road Farmers’ Market, which is in my neighborhood.   I usually take my wife on A ROMANTIC DATE at the Ritz Hotel.

My LATEST FOOD DISCOVERY in London is Vietnamese street food
on Wardour Street. I love Vietnamese street food.  

The MOST PICTURESQUE SPOT in all of London is Buckingham Palace. It’s still exciting, even though I’ve been there many times.   I FIND INSPIRATION FOR MY CULINARY CREATIONS in Soho where there are some very exciting international food, mainly Oriental cuisine. The Chinese Market in Soho also sells things you don’t find anywhere else.

RELAXING IN LONDON

After a long day, I LIKETO UNWIND AND RECHARGE by going running in Hyde Park. And then there will be a glass of Mosimann champagne at home.   A LOVELY DAY IN LONDON should be spent going to the wonderful art galleries and food market on Cork Street. Very often I get a coffee for my wife there on a Saturday morning – she loves caramel macchiato.  

The BEST PLACES FOR A CERTIFIED FOODIE to explore are the fantastic
markets. Food halls in London like Harrods are exciting, even to just to look around and smell. Selfridges and Harvey Nichols are good, too.  

I NEVER GET TIRED OF going to musicals. I’m a great fan. I’ve seen “Cats” and “Mama Mia” a few times. I also recently saw the Cirque du Soleil at the Royal Albert Hall and I loved it.  

TRAVELERS SHOULD VISIT the wonderful Covent Garden and do the pop tours. There are a lot of museums and so many things to see. But I don’t recommend doing everything in one day. Take your time, and come back again if necessary. Enjoy the experience and don’t rush it.

Read more about where to go in London in Travelife Magazine.

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A Destination in its Own Right: Kyoto Train Station

This striking steel and glass structure is an Instagram-worthy attraction in its own right. It also boasts a 15th-floor observation deck, several performance spaces, a multitude of restaurants, and a department store. From the station you can hail an English-speaking taxi driver to help you explore further afield too.

Forest-bathing in Arashiyama Bamboo Grove by day

Autumn is a great time to visit Kyoto as the weather tends to be warm and dry. This is also the best season to try shinrin-yoku (forest-bathing); the Japanese art of spending time in nature to reduce stress and increase a sense of wellbeing. Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is spectacular, as the bamboo stalks reach to the sky and surrounds in a boundless way.

Then Take a Stroll Around Gion at Night

Gion is Kyoto’s entertainment and famed geisha district, which is a mix of the historically beautiful and modern architecture. In Gion, modern entertainment establishments mix with traditional 17th-century teahouses.

The district has beautiful streets like Shimbashi illuminated at night; and if you are lucky you may spot a geiko or maiko in this area. While they’re known as geishas in Tokyo, in Kyoto the correct term is geiko, which means “women of art”. Geiko spend at least five years in training as an apprentice – also known as a maiko – to perfect their abilities, including to play musical instruments, dance, and host games for guests.

Visit a Temple

With 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, over 1600 Buddhist temples and over 400 Shinto shrines (Shinto is a unique ancient Japanese faith system), Kyoto is one of the world’s most culturally rich cities.

Kyoto Traveler’s Inn is well-suited for those who want to see the cultural sites of Kyoto since many of the city’s shrines and temples are located within walking distance from the hotel. These include the Shoren-in Temple, Ginkakuji, Heian Jingu Shrine and the Yasaka Shrine. The Yasaka Shrine is one of the most famous shrines in Kyoto and accessible in just 15 minutes by foot.

Explore Kyoto’s Pantry: Nishiki Market

Enjoying the cuisine in Japan is an important part of any trip there, so a great Kyoto institution to explore is Nishiki Market in downtown Kyoto. There you will find a vast array of foods on display and to try, and the engaging market stall holders will make new visitors to the market feel very welcome.

The post The top 5 places to see in Kyoto appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

Nikko is a natural wonderland of color during autumn. Perched at an altitude of 1400 meters, it’s quite cold. So it is one of the earliest areas in Japan to experience the seasonal changes. These include the dramatic autumn red colors and the cherry blossoms.

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Read about the best restaurant in Japan

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The Akechidaira Ropeway and Kegon Falls

At the top of Nikko’s iconic Irohazaka Winding Road is the Akechidaira Ropeway. Visitors glide through the air on the aerial tramway. On all sides, they are surrounded by natural glory as they travel towards the Akechidaira Ropeway Observation Deck.

From the cable car, visitors can enjoy a panoramic view. They can see the Kegon Falls, Lake Chuzenji and Mt. Nantaisan. The entire scenery looks like a painting. The fiery autumn leaves of Nikko’s Akechidaira is the perfect shot of autumn.

Seasonal Specialties with Local Ingredients in Nikko

Autumn is one of the best seasons to sample what Nikko has to offer. It has many luxurious hotels and some of them have hot springs baths.

The city also has many famous restaurants. Several famous Nikko’s restaurants serve organic dishes created with natural ingredients. For example, Gyoshintei restaurant serves traditional vegetarian Shojin cuisine. This type of cooking is based on Nikko’s 1200-year history.

Meanwhile, Shizensaryo Meguri is a popular café. It was once a traditional home from the Taisho era. Today Shizensaryo Meguri features seasonal vegetable and fruit dishes. So it is a great place for those who wish to avoid meat.

The most luxurious resort hotel in Nikko is the Chuzenji Kanaya Hotel. It’s 140 years old and it’s famous for its food. The cooking is traditional but with a hint of Western influence. It also has a hot springs bath.

Many people consider a stay at the Chuzenji Kanaya Hotel as part of their autumn rituals.

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But over 3 million people visit each year from all over the United States and the world. So it’s not unusual to hear a variety of languages and accents when you’re walking around town.

VISITING GETTYSBURG, PENNSYLVANIA

Visitors flock here because of its history. It’s connected to the fierce 1863 battle of the American Civil War that left over 50,000 casualties and tore the country in two. Gettysburg has become a symbol of both tragedy and hope.

THE GETTYSBURG ADDRESS

That hope came in the form of Abraham Lincoln, who chose this Pennsylvania town as a place to reunite the country through his immortal words. The Gettysburg Address is a simple, two-minute speech that has become one of the world’s most remembered speeches.

HOW TO GET TO THERE

It’s best to rent a car from Washington, Philadelphia or New York and then to drive across rural Pennsylvania. Along the way you will see bank barns, corn fields and a unique culture.

WHAT TO DO 

Visitors will find a town steeped in history, with an authentic American experience: cozy inns, historic restaurants, ice cream parlors and boutiques. Most of the establishments are owned and run by locals.  There are many tours to choose from – both historic tours and haunted tours. Meanwhile, museums welcome visitors eager to learn about the tragedy and triumph that happened in here.

North of the town are 20,000 acres of apple trees. This is one of the largest apple-growing regions in the United States. Farmers’ markets, orchards and wineries are drawing visitors from the town and bringing them out into the hills for a unique blend of Pennsylvania culinary experiences.

This great combination of history, culture, charm, food and nature makes this a wonderful destination.

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SCUBA DIVING FOR BEGINNERS IN SOMABAY

For beginners, Somabay offers an array of PADI diving courses and the world famous house reef is accessible via a 420 meter long jetty that stretches out into the ocean. Here, divers can expect to see an abundance of marine life including emperor angelfish, stingrays, frogfish, clownfish and trigger fish, without leaving the peninsula of Somabay.

DIVING IN THE RED SEA, IN THE FAMOUS SALEM EXPRESS

For the more experienced diver, there are many hidden mysteries buried within the Red Sea that are waiting to be explored. One of the most renowned, the Salem Express, lies on the floor of the Red Sea at 29 meters, providing an eerie yet exciting diving experience.

With much of the structure of the ship still intact, it provides an incredible opportunity for experienced divers to explore a 20th century wreck.  Located just off Port Safaga, near the Hundman Reef, the Salem Express is easily accessible and just a short boat ride from Somabay as are other popular sites including Hal Hal, Shaab Shehr, The Tubyas and The Gamuls.

HOW TO GET TO SOMABAY

Somabay is conveniently located 45 kilometers from Hurghada International Airport in the Red Sea area of Egypt which receives a large number of direct flights from the United Kingdom.  Just a four-hour flight from Central Europe, these luxurious accommodations, dazzling beaches, clear blue skies and refreshing sea waters of Somabay are within easy reach – with no jet lag!

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(Hokadote morning market)

What you’ll need 

Visa requirements: Most Asian passport holders will need a Japanese visa to visit Hakodate.

Time difference: Japan is one hour ahead of Southeast Asia.

Getting there

Japan Airlines, All Nippon Airways, and Philippine Airlines are some of the airlines that fly to Tokyo via Haneda or Narita airports. From there, take a 90-minute domestic flight to Hakodate Airport.

Alternatively, visitors can take a train ride Tokyo to Hakodate via the Hokkaido Shinkansen service, making the region and its nearby towns more accessible for tourists. Kikonai station, the first stop in Hokkaido, is a quaint yet serene town where guests can try juicy Hakodate beef.

When to go

Hakodate is lovely to visit all year round, particularly to see the famed Mt. Hakodate night view. However, the best time to go is from April through September when the climate is warmer.

(The famed Mt. Hakodate night view)

Where to stay

Four Points by Sheraton Hakodate 

Formerly the Loisir Hotel Hakodate, this ideally located Western-style hotel is right across the JR Hakodate Station and the Daimon Yokocho, the best place to try Hakodate’s famous seafood donburi bowls. Behind it is the well-known Hakodate Morning Market that comes alive as early as daybreak. Don’t miss Shabu Shabu Kirari for a taste of premium Hokkaido beef. | premierhotel-group.com/hakodate

La Jolie Motomachi by WBF

This chic and stylish boutique hotel conveniently located in the Motomachi District boasts of 29 designer rooms that reflect the same charming Western-Japanese sensibilities of Hakodate. Egyptian cotton beddings and antique décor paired with modern comforts ensure a comfortingly homey yet pampered stay for guests. A tram stop is also just a minute’s walk away.  | hotelwbf.com/lj-motomachi

La Vista Hakodate Bay V

This upscale hotel falls right smack between many of Hakodate’s most interesting attractions. It’s just a three-minute walk to the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses, and a few blocks further northeast leads to Hakodate Morning Market. Towards the southwest is Motomachi District and access to the Mt. Hakodate Ropeway. | hotespa.net

Wakamatsu Hot Spring Resort 

Expect the highest level of Japanese service in a ryokan as rich in history as this. From its charming façade to its subdued interiors, its 24 rooms – each with its own view of the Tsugaru Straits – have been carefully designed to create the most tranquil environment for guests. | wakamatsuryokan.com/hakodate

Yunokawa Prince Hotel Nagisatei 

This ryokan-style accommodation facing Tsugaru Strait is best for travelers seeking a change of scenery and an alternative option in Hakodate. Experience an authentic tatami room with an open-air bath and enjoy a Japanese buffet with an open kitchen that serves freshly-made tempura. |  nagisatei.info

Bourou Noguchi Hakodate 

With the highest open-air bath in Yunokawa, this luxury ryokan provides an unmatched breathtaking view of the city, Mt. Hakodate, and Tsugaru Strait. Some rooms have private hot spring baths with a panoramic view. The spring waters here are made up of sodium calcium and chloride that are good for guests suffering from joint pain, rheumatism, and fatigue. A Japanese garden, library, and billiard room provide guests with entertainment and leisure options. | bourou-hakodate.com

Where to eat 

Uni Murakami

This small restaurant at the end of the Hakodate Morning Market lane, serves the best sea urchin rice bowl dishes. Diners can also choose a combination uni don with other seafood such as scallops or salmon roe, for variety. Make sure to come early or make reservations, as seats are limited, and to avoid a long wait. | uni-murakami.com

(Fresh seafood rice bowl0

Daimon Yokocho

For the best donburi selection, head to Donburi Yokocho Market that’s just a minute’s walk from the JR Hakodate Station. Over 20 restaurants offer various kinds of donburi (rice toppings) using only the freshest seafood such as squid, sea urchin, salmon, scallop, shrimp, and more. This is sushi heaven at its finest that no seafood lover should miss. | donburiyokocho.com

Pastry Snaffles

These guys make the lightest, fluffiest “catch cakes,” the Snaffles’ version of a cheesecake made of Hokkaido milk, cream cheese, and eggs. Make sure to bring home some of these treats in its original cheese or chocolate flavors, along with cheese tarts or “snow ball” pastries. | snaffles.jp

Restaurant Yano

Make time to visit this dining destination when visiting Matsumae Castle. This restaurant right across Matsumae park serves a unique bluefish tuna bento set. The tuna, freshly caught each morning, is prepared in several different ways, to highlight its best qualities and flavors. The bento set is served with Hokkaido rice, miso soup with local kelp, and pickled Matsumae squid. | matsumae-yano.com

Hakodate Beer Hall

Stay warm with a mug of Sapporo beer and a hearty meal from this place that looks as great as its food and beer selections are varied. Food selections range from local specialties to Western cuisine such as beef and potato stews, and it’s interestingly located at the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse.

(Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse)

Shabu Shabu Kirari

Take a break from seafood with a traditional Japanese shabu shabu at at the Four Points by Sheraton Hakodate. Generous servings of premium Hokkaido beef and seasonal vegetables are cooked at your table in a flavorful broth which makes this a must-try experience in Hakodate.

What to do

Go on a day trip to get up close and personal with nature.

Get closer to Mother Nature at Onuma Park , just 30 minutes away north of Hakodate. The park at the foot of Mt. Komagatake has two lakes where you can take boat tours or rent a bike to explore the various lakes and small islands. Other activities to do at Onuma Park are horseback riding, canoeing, and snowshoeing in winter | onumakouen.com

Get to know a yokozuna

Visit the Chiyonoyama & Chiyonofuji Memorial Hall at Fukushima Town, a sumo wrestling museum dedicated to two of Hokkaido’s renowned yokozuna (highest ranked sumo wrestling champions). The museum chronicles their lives and careers, and showcases their awards and accolades. A dojo at the back of the museum is sometimes open for public viewing, and if you’re lucky, you might even catch some young sumo wrestlers training or competing there around August. | town.fukushima.hokkaido.jp

(Mt. Komagatake)

And with that, you’re now ready to visit Hokadote. What did you think of this travel guide? Did we miss anything spectacular? What other destinations would you like to learn more about? Let us know in the comments section, or leave us a message on our official Facebook page.

Happy travel planning!

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