This is a story about my many holidays in the beautiful city of Istanbul, capital of Turkey. In particular, it’s about my  many visits to the grand Topkapi Palace over the years, and my memories associated with it.

There are some places you just never tire of. For me, the 15th century Topkapi Palace perched on a look-out, on top of a hill in the Old Town of Istanbul, is one of these. It’s a place I have visited more times than I can count. But I still remember the first time I visited Istanbul, even if this was over 20 years ago.

At that time, Istanbul was a beautiful city of ancient markets, palaces, and mosques caught in an amazing time warp. And everyday images were like scenes from the pages of the Bible. I too was a very different person then; young and hungry for adventure.

SWEET RETURN TO ISTANBUL

Ten years later, I found myself back again, in this grand home of the Ottoman sultans; this time with a group of Travelife Magazine readers who had joined our tour of Turkey. Of course, the Topkapi Palace was one of our stops.

Since I’d seen the buildings and the displays before, I spent the morning in the open-air coffee shop overlooking the Bosphorus. From here, I could see the Princes’ Islands in the distance. I remember thinking then about how life must be savored with relish and without hesitation because none of us really know what the future holds.

ABOUT THE TOPKAPI PALACE AND THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE

The Ottoman empire is the perfect example of how neither the past nor the present is a guarantee for the future. Over a cup of Turkish coffee, I sat in the autumn sunshine feeling joyously alive in this historic palace that had witnessed the rise and fall of great civilizations.

More recently, two memorable occasions brought me back to the Topkapi Palace, making me feel like this palace has accompanied me along the chapters of my own life. Each time I pass through its threshold, following in the footsteps of the sultans and his learned men, I have been a little older and wiser; and more grateful for the lucky cards that Life has handed me. I have also been more accepting of the inevitable twists and turns that have accompanied these.

CELEBRATING LIFE IN TURKEY

Two years ago, I spent a milestone birthday in Istanbul, gathering loved ones to stay nearby at the Four Seasons Sultanahmet which, incidentally, is one of my favorite hotels in the world.

For one happy week in Istanbul, we sailed around the Bosphorus on a private yacht, walked the streets of Sultanahmet, and of course revisited the Topkapi Palace. The allure of the Topkapi Palace truly never fades.

LONG WEEKEND IN TURKEY

Then, just the other month, I was back in my beloved Istanbul for a weekend in the Old Town. For three magical days, we revisited and rediscovered all the places that I had already seen perhaps two dozen times before. 

The Topkapi Palace was its usual 500-year-old self: stately, elegant, and graceful. But this time, it was I who had changed. Between these two visits, my life had turned upside down and I now saw everything and everyone with new eyes and fresh perspectives.

EXPERIENCING MINDFULNESS

Suddenly, everything was precious, including a glimpse of the sun shining ever so perfectly on the intricate roof of the sultan’s pleasure pavilion. I also remember clearly the moment I observed the majestic way an ancient tree by the entrance to the harem spread its branches protectively over it.

Of course, I tried to remember the colorful details of the tiles in the grand rooms, the designs of the sultan’s porcelain collection, and the effortless symmetry of every room and building. This is what all visitors to the Topkapi Palace do. But on this most recent trip, what I wanted most was to cherish the moment itself.

THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE

You see, I happily realized that the Topkapi Palace will always be there, serving as a reminder of the greatness of Istanbul and the Ottoman civilization.

But in the future, perhaps I would not be walking its courtyards in the same frame of mind or even with the same companions. I am sure this palace and I will meet again many more times; but the next time I cross its threshold, the world will have changed, as it continuously does, and I along with it. 

And these changes will make all the difference to me. Read more articles about Istanbul in Travelife Magazine.

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For the past few mornings I’ve been enjoying a leisurely breakfast right by the sea at the Four Seasons Bosphorus in Istanbul.

Having been to Istanbul many times, I am doing very little tourist sightseeing on this trip. All I really want to do this time around is to take it easy and to check out the cool new shops, coffee places and restaurants that have sprouted up since I was last here about two years ago.

And to catch up with some friends in Turkey. I’m having dinner with some of them at one of my favourite restaurants in Istanbul tonight.

WHAT TO DO IN ISTANBUL

I just love being in Istanbul. Sometimes I come over, all the way from Asia, just for a weekend of walks, sitting by the Bosphorus and a couple of good meals. The weather is perfect and everywhere is a feast for the senses. It’s a great way to rejuvenate and revitalise one’s self.

This time too, I really intended for a very relaxed pace of a trip with enough time to catch up on emails and to actually read the newspapers over breakfast. Of course, I am trying to fit in as many spa treatments as possible.

THE RESTAURANTS UNDER GALATA BRIDGE

I’m doing a bit of the tourist stuff that I like as well. The other day my friends and I had lunch under Galata Bridge. This is a big tourist activity, and almost all the fish restaurants here cater to foreigners.

However, I just love sitting right by the sea under the bridge and watching the boats go by. You see all of this amidst the gorgeous views of the oldest neighbourhoods of Istanbul. This is such a unique experience — something you won’t find even from the top luxury hotels.

BREAKFAST AT THE FOUR SEASONS BOSPHORUS

Breakfast at the Four Seasons Bosphorus is certainly a great way to start each day of a holiday in Istanbul.

They have a really interesting selection of food for breakfast at the Aqua Restaurant. This includes Turkish bean soup and all kinds of fish done in a variety of ways.

The fish dishes at breakfast are really delicious. In fact, I haven’t seen such a comprehensive array of fish dishes at breakfast at other luxury hotels in Istanbul.

Two fish dishes stand out at the Four Seasons Bosphorus. One is a shredded salmon dish which is delicious beyond words. The other is marinated freshly-caught anchovies that is always so prettily arranged; it looks like a modern artwork.

I usually eat these with a big plate of buttered Turkish fried rice that the chef kindly makes for me when it wasn’t available in the buffet spread.

TRADITIONAL TURKISH PANCAKES

Then there’s the freshly made traditional Turkish pancakes that are made to order right on the terrace. This is perhaps the highlight of breakfast. It’s a joy to watch the Turkish ladies make this pancake. And the pancakes themselves are incredibly delicious. Sometimes the pancakes are filled with cheese, and sometimes meat is added into the pancake.

Of course, I always end breakfast with a plate of traditional Turkish sweets.

VISITING ISTANBUL’S TOP MUSEUMS

Speaking of art, that’s the other thing on my agenda. One of my favourite museums in Istanbul is of course the Istanbul Modern, so that’s where I’m headed today.

And then I’m checking out an away-from-the-tourist-track neighbourhood full of cool new designer shops and chic boutiques with one-of-a-kind items for sale. My kind of favourite places.

What a wonderful, relaxing week in Turkey, living a never-endingly eventful #Travelife.

The post The secret to a great weekend in Istanbul appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

Today I woke up remembering a happy trip to Tanzania. It involved three unique safaris and one beach holiday in Zanzibar. We chose safaris in the Selous, the Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti.

PLANNING FOR TANZANIA

This holiday in Tanzania really began over a casual conversation over a champagne, mussels and steak dinner while we were in Cape Town late last year. We were at a restaurant called Catharina’s at The Steenberg in Constantia.

By the way, the Steenberg has some of the most beautiful villas I’ve seen near Cape Town. We loved our stay here.

THE BEST SAFARIS IN AFRICA

It was at the end of a very enjoyable two–week trip to South Africa, and right there and then we’d decided to do another trip somewhere in Africa because we’d had such a good time.

“Where shall we go?” We asked each other, and I’m sure all the champagne had an influencing effect on our conversations.

Out of all the countries in Africa we could choose from for another trip to Africa, we’d decided on Tanzania together and then blocked a date for going in our calendars.

Basically, we threw a psychological dart on a map of Africa and decided to go where it landed. On the shortlist were Namibia, Botswana, Tanzania and Kenya. Then we did a bit of bargaining and negotiating regarding the places to include.

THE BEST LODGES IN TANZANIA

When this was done, I set about choosing all the hotels and lodges in Tanzania, as I just love doing this. The Travel Companion was happy to leave this bit to me and focus on where to eat and where to go for sightseeing. This was just like what how we planned our visit to South Africa.

Choosing luxury hotels is one of my ideas of bliss, by the way, aside from an afternoon at a spa, a very good meal with great conversation, and some shopping therapy. I just love checking out hotel and resort websites and booking the ones I like.

I wonder what this should be called? Hotel therapy? I’m pretty OC about hotels because I simply hate staying in lousy hotels.

Meanwhile, his part of the planning was all the domestic logistics, including how to get from point A to point B to point C. This included booking all those tiny planes to go from one safari to another.

Plus all the sightseeing and the restaurant choices because he’s as anal about restaurants as I am about hotels. So between us, we have the best of the world covered.

THE BEST SAFARIS IN TANZANIA

Anyway, for Tanzania, I booked three absolutely amazing safari experiences for a trip focused on the very best of this country in different ways. Give or take a few, of course, because two weeks just wasn’t enough time to stay everywhere I wanted.

There are about two other safari places I would love to do, plus a beautiful resort or two in Zanzibar.

THE BEST RESORTS IN ZANZIBAR

In Zanzibar, which was towards the last leg of our trip, I was planning to book a hotel in Stone Town but we had few luxury options. At that time, the Park Hyatt Zanzibar was just under construction. It’s now open, and this is the best hotel to stay in Zanzibar.

Meanwhile, the fantastic resorts in the beach areas are all very luxurious but these are quite a distance from Stone Town. But we wanted to stay by the beach. So we booked a beautiful resort with a perfect sunset view.

As for the safaris for this trip, lucky me. I got to pick all three safari places, although it was overall a pretty good compromise, as usual.

NGORONGORO: THE MOST UNIQUE SAFARI IN THE WORLD

This safari is the best and most special safari experience in Tanzania, and certainly one of the top in the world. The lodge itself is like a Hollywood set. In fact, you almost expect Meryll Streep and Robert Redford to come walking in to do a scene from the movie Out of Africa.

Meanwhile, the safari viewing is amazing. It involves driving down into the crater of an extinct volcano to see all the animals at the bottom. We did this for several days and our rangers always capped the game drives with a picnic breakfast right at the bottom.

We both had this at the top of our respective bucket lists.

Every single discerning traveler to this part of the world stays here as it’s really world famous for its combination of glamour, luxury and incredible game viewing.

THE MOST REMOTE SAFARI IN THE WORLD

The other safari is something I really wanted to do, although my companion was not so keen because he read somewhere that the game viewing isn’t that great.

Plus, he thought I was more interested in the safari’s spa than in seeing more animals. The spa really was wonderful. I got massages every day while wild animals passed around me.

But this lodge is pretty far out, so he was a good sport about accompanying me here for three days. And it’s still one of the most special places I have ever stayed in in Africa. It’s Africa game viewing at its most pristine — and also at its most surreal luxurious.

There are no conservation rangers or conservation efforts here, so it’s really a free for all as far as the animals are concerned.

This is also why the game viewing here is slightly different compared to the more “civilized safari areas.” One day, you may get very lucky. The next day, you may not.

But that’s truly nature at work without human interference, as far as I’m concerned. And if you’re into safaris, you want to include one like this every now and then.

LUXURY IN THE WILDERNESS

Besides, this is an ultra-luxury safari in one of the most remote places on earth. Talk about a completely surreal experience unlike any other.

It’s located is the Selous which has been called the last wilderness of Africa. Can you imagine what the last wilderness of a wilderness continent is like?

It’s also supposed to be one of the last remaining places on earth where you can go and escape manmade noises. This is still one of my favorite safari experiences ever.

THE MOST FAMOUS SAFARI AREA IN THE WORLD

Finally, the third safari was in a location of my companion’s choice because he wanted to see the Great Migration. And this is where I had to compromise, although not with too much difficulty.

It’s one of the most famous safari locations in the world, and the first choice of most people going on safari in Tanzania. And the safari lodge I’d chosen was possibly at the top of its class right now. It’s quite unlike any other in Africa.

All three safari experiences were best-of-breed and entirely different from each other. So our trip definitely wasn’t just like one never-ending, and never-endingly eventful safari.

THE FAMOUS FISH RESTAURANT IN ZANZIBAR

Finally, I’m posting a photo of a fish restaurant I really wanted to try while we were in Tanzania. It’s at one end of the island of Zanzibar, about one hour from Stone Town by car.

“That looks like a tourist trap,” the Travel Companion said, when I showed him this pretty famous photo. “But if you really want to go, I’ll take you there for your birthday.”

Yes, I was celebrating my birthday in Tanzania, on this holiday. It was wonderful, and Zanzibar was our last stop before flying out.

We ended up not going, though, because we found a really nice restaurant by the sea in Stone Town that served lobsters. Then suddenly, a one-hour drive for lunch at this fish restaurant seemed really far away.

So it’s still on my #Travelife bucket list, which of course never ends. This gives me something to look forward to on my next visit to Tanzania. Read more articles about safaris in Africa in Travelife Magazine.

The post The best safaris in Tanzania appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

Years ago, I went sightseeing in Turkey with the guide of Mel Gibson. We began in Istanbul and then journeyed onwards to Izmir. Then we visited the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Ephesus and the wondrous white crystalline formations of Pamukkale.

It was a most interesting journey of exploration and discovery. We so enjoyed our holiday and this was mainly because of our guide.

FLYING TO IZMIR

After visiting the major sights of Istanbul, we took the early morning Turkish Airlines flight from Istanbul to Izmir, the third largest city. This was the gateway for our visit to Ephesus and Pamukkale. At the airport, we were welcomed by Marti, our private guide in Izmir, and we set out for a one-week holiday, sightseeing in Turkey.

We basically wanted a crash course on antiquities and the ancient world, sightseeing of Turkey. So when I contacted the tour agency in Izmir, I specifically asked for a local guide with a good sense of culture, knowledge and patience to answer our many questions.

WORKING PART-TIME AS A GUIDE

Marti told us he was a college history lecturer who worked as a guide in his spare time. He had a good sense of humor, kind eyes and strong sunburnt arms. He constantly claimed that his arms were black from digging artifacts at the height of summer. Marti fit my wish-list for a private tour guide for sightseeing in Turkey.

He certainly knew how to faze us from the outset.

MEL GIBSON AND THE PASSION OF CHRIST

When he met us at the airport, he said: “I took Mel Gibson around Turkey for a month when he was researching for the movie ‘The Passion of Christ.’ This was when I was on leave from teaching at the university and not conducting archeological digs.”

If he said this to impress us, it worked.

DIGGING FOR STATUES

Later on, at a local museum not far from Ephesus, he pointed to a tiny, delicate gold statue of a plump woman holding a jar. Then he said with obvious pride: “I dug this with my bare hands two summers ago.”

In another museum, he walked straight to a broken jar of white clay as if this was a long-lost friend. I could have sworn he was teary-eyed.

Read about a journey across South Africa on The Blue Train

“I still remember how I discovered this,” he said. “I had been digging all day and I was already tired and ready to give up.

He continued: “Then my hands felt something hard and round in the soil. I was so excited. But at the same time I had to remember to control myself, in case I damaged some part in the process. When I finally saw this jar, I felt it was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen.”

SIGHTSEEING IN TURKEY

In Ephesus, Marti took us to the Library of Celsus and the ruins of the Temple of Artemis. It was a scorchingly hot day but he wove fantastic tales around each set of fallen columns or broken statues.

We were compelled – or rather, enthralled – to keep on sightseeing. Every ancient site had a story, and Marti resurrected each one with the expert touch of a magician.

A JEWELRY SHOP IN IZMIR

However, Marti reserved the best tale for last. On the last day of our holiday sightseeing in Turkey, he suddenly turned around from the front seat of the car with a quizzical look.

“Do you like jewelry?” He asked me. Without waiting for an answer, he continued: “Because you are such nice people, I’d like to take you to the place where I bought my wedding ring.”

Read about one of the loveliest private villas in Vietnam

He continued: “We’ve been going here for years. And each year since we were married, my wife has saved up and bought a piece of jewelry here. Because it’s such a special place for us, she told me: ‘Marti, don’t bring tourists to my favorite jewellery store. Just bring friends.’ ”

It certainly sounded like a line. But after a happy week of wondrous stories, we willingly gave him the benefit of the doubt.

WELCOME WITH TURKISH APPLE TEA

Almost on cue, the driver did a sharp right turn and we found ourselves in front of a two-storey jewelry emporium just outside Ephesus. Very friendly people rushed out to greet us as soon as the van stopped. Many glasses of Turkish apple tea later, we left the store with some packages and a slightly used credit card.

“You will not regret it,” Marti told us back in the van, beaming back at me like a proud father. He certainly seemed to be in a good mood.

He said: “This will be your wonderful memory of your Turkish holiday.” It certainly was. Even now, each time I wear my necklace, I still remember our wonderful time on holiday, sightseeing in Turkey.

HOW MUCH TO TIP THE GUIDE OF MEL GIBSON

When it was time to say goodbye, the question of tips came up. How much exactly do you tip someone who has guided a Hollywood superstar and who practically dug up most of Ephesus with his bare hands?

Somewhat compelled to match our appreciation for an educational and entertaining week to his impressive qualifications and to what we imagined might have been Mel Gibson’s Hollywood-sized tip, we gave a tip that was perhaps larger than necessary.

Back at our hotel, Marti received our parting gift with profuse thanks and left. We then stood by the front entrance waving enthusiastically until he was finally out of sight.

COMMENTS BY THE HOTEL DOORMAN

“Did you have a good time here?” The hotel doorman asked. He’d been silently observing our fond farewells the entire time.

“Oh yes,” I answered. “We had a great guide. He took Mel Gibson around for a month when he was researching for his movie The Passion of Christ here.”

I don’t know why I said this, but I felt this would prove what a good guide — and what a great time — we had.

The doorman smiled at me patiently, as if we were sharing a joke. “Oh, did he say it was Mel Gibson this time?”

Get your copy of the latest issue of Travelife Magazine at bookstores and magazine stands now. And read more about sightseeing in Turkey in Travelife Magazine.

The post Sightseeing in Turkey with the Mel Gibson’s guide appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

At the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul

The Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus sits regally like a beautiful lady of the Ottoman Empire, practically a destination in itself, especially for frequent travelers to Istanbul like myself who wish to revisit the city in relaxed style.

I’d been to Turkey many times before; so on this particular trip, all I wanted to do was walk around the old neighborhoods of Galata and Karakoy discovering quirky shops and cool cafes, visit the Istanbul Modern, and then spend the rest of the time on R&R right by one of the most strategic waterways in the world.

At the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul

The convenient location of Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus, near  historic sights of Bosphorus and also comfortably away from the hustle and bustle, is most ideal for a relaxing holiday in Istanbul.

At the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul

For my stay at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus, I chose a second floor Palace Bosphorus room which is one of the most attractive rooms in the hotel. Located in the historic main building, a 19th century former Ottoman palace, it still had remnants of its grand old self, with unusually high ceilings and old-fashioned windows facing the Bosphorus so that I could see the Asian side of Istanbul and the Maiden tower in the distance.

Meanwhile the interiors were classic Turkish turn-of-the-century in feel – dark furniture and plush fabrics – although with all the magical gadgets of modern technology.

Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Bosphorus

Within this oasis, one of my favorite rituals was eating at the delicious breakfast buffet at Aqua, the contemporary Italian restaurant of Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Bosphorus. 

It has a wonderful breakfast buffet, all kinds of fresh juices including my all-time favorite fresh pomegranate juice, full of anti-oxidants, and there’s a lovely Turkish lady who makes a Turkish specialty of beef and flour pancake nearby. I always order this Turkish pancake and ask her to put a little chili in.

Breakfast at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Bosphorus

I began my days in a wonderfully languid fashion at this sleek but cheerful venue, with freshly pressed pomegranate juice and a typical Turkish breakfast of assorted cheeses, clotted cream, olives, honey and breads.

Baklava at the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul

The spa had a wide range of treatments but I just had to book the Turkish hammam experience on one of these spa days, of course. 

This Turkish hammam experience began with a short steam treatment followed by a body scrub, foaming wash and massage that ended just in time for afternoon tea in the hotel gardens where tables are set up right next to the sea so that on a beautifully sunny afternoon this was just about the best place to be in Istanbul.

At the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul

Then, just like the pace of everything else in Istanbul, a city full of moments worth savoring slowly that slip by all too quickly, we were soon reluctantly calling it a day. All the while sitting at the same spot outdoors, afternoon tea seamlessly turned into sunset cocktails; and then darkness crept in and we walked back to Aqua for an authentic Italian dinner of pasta, steaks and gelato cooked by Istanbul’s best Italian chef.

At the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul

We’d been so mesmerized by our VIP seat on the grand show that is life on the Bosphorus – one of the greatest attractions of Istanbul – that, ironically, the hours had ever so wonderfully slipped by unnoticed. And this is how it was everyday for the rest of our stay as well, until it was time to say goodbye to Istanbul and to the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus.

The post A relaxing holiday at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Bosphorus appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

In Istanbul, onboard the most perfect yacht for 2 (or 20 or 30!) chartered from LuxuryIstanbul.com

THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN ISTANBUL INCLUDE

ASITANE 

AND MEZE BY LEMON TREE

WHERE TO CHARTER A YACHT IN ISTANBUL

SAILING AROUND THE GOLDEN HORN

DISCOVERING A COLLECTION OF

VINTAGE CARS AND VINTAGE BOATS

IN ISTANBUL

The post How to charter a yacht in Istanbul and about vintage cars appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

It takes more than facts & figures to make a great tour guide.

Turkey is one of my favorite destinations.

Once, after a Silversea cruise from Istanbul to the Ukraine, we went to see the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Ephesus and the wondrous, sparkingly white crystalline formations at Pamukkale.

We took an early morning flight from Istanbul to Izmir, Turkey’s third-largest city and the gateway for our explorations.

Scroll down to read more…

A PRIVATE GUIDE FOR A WEEK

At the airport, we were welcomed by Marti, our private guide for a week of touring around the region.

We basically wanted a crash course on antiquities and Turkey’s ancient world, so I had specifically asked for someone with a good sense of culture, enough knowledge and patience to answer our many questions.

An elderly college history lecturer with a good sense of humor, kind eyes and strong arms that he constantly claimed were sunburnt almost black from digging artifacts at the height of summer, Marti fit my wish-list for a tour guide exactly.

“I took Mel Gibson around Turkey for a month when he was researching for the movie ‘The Passion of Christ,’” he casually told us at the airport, by way of introduction, as we stood in the driveway waiting for our van.

He added: “This was when I was on leave from teaching at the university and not conducting archeological digs.”

If this was designed to impress, it worked.

And somehow, I remember making a mental note to myself to make sure we somewhat measured up to what I imagined was Mel Gibson’s tips.

In another museum, he walked straight to a broken jar of white clay as if this was a long-lost friend.

I could have sworn he was teary-eyed.

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“I still remember how I discovered this,” he said.

Then he continued: “I had been digging all day and I was already tired and ready to give up, when my hands felt something hard and round in the soil. I was so excited, but at the same time I had to remember to control myself, in case I damaged some part in the process.”

He added: “When I finally saw this jar, I felt it was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen.”

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE MEMORIES

THE BEST IS ALWAYS LAST

“Do you like jewelry?” He asked me.

Of course I did.

Without waiting for an answer, however, he continued: “Because you are such nice people, I’d like to take you to the place where I bought my wedding ring.”

Then he added: “We’ve been going here for years, and each year since we were married, my wife has saved up and bought a piece of jewelry here. Because it’s such a special place for us, she told me: ‘Marti, don’t bring tourists to my favorite store. Just bring friends.’ ”

It certainly sounded like a line.

But after a happy week of wondrous stories, we willingly gave him the benefit of the doubt.

THE ONE THAT DIDN’T GET AWAY

Almost on cue, the driver did a sharp right turn and we found ourselves in front of a two-storey jewelry emporium with very friendly people who rushed out to greet us as soon as the van stopped.

Many glasses of Turkish apple tea later, we left the store with some packages and a slightly used credit card.

THE MILLION LIRA QUESTION

When it was time to say goodbye, the question of tips came up.

What exactly do you tip someone who has guided a Hollywood superstar and who practically dug up most of Ephesus with his bare hands?

Somewhat compelled to match our appreciation for an educational and entertaining week to his impressive qualifications and to what we imagined might have been Mel Gibson’s Hollywood-sized tip, we gave an amount perhaps larger than necessary.

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The post How much would you tip Mel Gibson’s Turkish guide? appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

I’ve been to Istanbul countless times over the past 20 years. On one of those trips, I took 70 readers of Travelife Magazine on a great adventure to Turkey.

Many of them have joined us again for other trips to other parts of the world.

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TURKEY 20 YEARS AGO

For visits to Istanbul, I usually like staying in hotels that are out of the tourist route but at the same time convenient for it. 


I’d stayed in all the grand hotels, including the most luxurious one (Ciragan Palace) and the most historic one way before it was renovated and re-opened (Pera Palas).

I’ve also stayed in the newest super luxury hotel along the Bosphorus (Shangri-la Bosphorus).

All of these stays have been memorable.

But, yes, on my very first visit to Turkey almost 20 years ago, I stayed at the historic and amazing — the truly unforgettable — Pera Palas Hotel.

STRAIGHT OUT OF THE BIBLE

I can’t ever forget that stay.

There were so few foreigners in Istanbul then, and it was far from a modern city.

In fact, arriving in Istanbul then was like opening a page of the Bible and walking straight into it.

That trip blew my mind away in a manner I can’t even begin to describe.

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THE HOTEL WHERE AGATHA CHRISTIE STAYED

And I still remember how we took a car from the airport and rode up to the Pera Palas, just as a wedding party in all sorts of amazing dress was coming out.

The scene was just like something from an Agatha Christie novel.

And incidentally, Agatha Christie stayed at the Pera Palas and wrote part of her thrillers here.

Unfortunately, Agatha Christie’s room was turned into a museum so guests could not book this room.

So instead we were given Zsa Zsa Gabor’s favorite suite, which was rather nice as well.

THE FANCIEST DINING ROOM IN ISTANBUL

The very fancy dining room of the Pera Palas was then the place to be in, for local Istanbul society.

I still remember how it had a two-storey high room, glittering chandeliers, masses of flowers everywhere, and very old-fashioned service.

There was also an antique elevator which actually worked, and it had an attendant inside and chairs for guests to sit as they were ferried up to their rooms.

It was all quite amazing.

And, in that beautiful dining room, my friend and I were forever the topics of discussion among the other diners, as there were no other Asians around but us.

Yes, even way back then, I was already living a never-ending, and never-endingly eventful Travelife.

The post Memories of the old Pera Palas hotel in Istanbul, where Agatha Christie once stayed. appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

It takes more than facts & figures to make a great tour guide.

Turkey is one of my favorite destinations.

Once, after a Silversea cruise from Istanbul to the Ukraine, we went to see the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Ephesus and the wondrous, sparkingly white crystalline formations at Pamukkale.

We took an early morning flight from Istanbul to Izmir, Turkey’s third-largest city and the gateway for our explorations.

Scroll down to read more…

SEE YOU AT 

THE TRAVELIFE ROCKWELL TRAVEL FAIR

January 17 – 19, 2014

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A PRIVATE GUIDE FOR A WEEK

At the airport, we were welcomed by Marti, our private guide for a week of touring around the region.

We basically wanted a crash course on antiquities and Turkey’s ancient world, so I had specifically asked for someone with a good sense of culture, enough knowledge and patience to answer our many questions.

An elderly college history lecturer with a good sense of humor, kind eyes and strong arms that he constantly claimed were sunburnt almost black from digging artifacts at the height of summer, Marti fit my wish-list for a tour guide exactly.

“I took Mel Gibson around Turkey for a month when he was researching for the movie ‘The Passion of Christ,’” he casually told us at the airport, by way of introduction, as we stood in the driveway waiting for our van. “This was when I was on leave from teaching at the university and not conducting archeological digs.”

If this was designed to impress, it worked.

And somehow, I remember making a mental note to myself to make sure we somewhat measured up to what I imagined was Mel Gibson’s tips.

In another museum, he walked straight to a broken jar of white clay as if this was a long-lost friend.

I could have sworn he was teary-eyed.

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“I still remember how I discovered this,” he said. “I had been digging all day and I was already tired and ready to give up, when my hands felt something hard and round in the soil. I was so excited, but at the same time I had to remember to control myself, in case I damaged some part in the process. When I finally saw this jar, I felt it was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen.”

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE MEMORIES

THE BEST IS ALWAYS LAST

“Do you like jewelry?” He asked me. Of course I did.

Without waiting for an answer, however, he continued: “Because you are such nice people, I’d like to take you to the place where I bought my wedding ring.”

Then he added: “We’ve been going here for years, and each year since we were married, my wife has saved up and bought a piece of jewelry here. Because it’s such a special place for us, she told me: ‘Marti, don’t bring tourists to my favorite store. Just bring friends.’ ”

It certainly sounded like a line.

But after a happy week of wondrous stories, we willingly gave him the benefit of the doubt.

THE ONE THAT DIDN’T GET AWAY

Almost on cue, the driver did a sharp right turn and we found ourselves in front of a two-storey jewelry emporium with very friendly people who rushed out to greet us as soon as the van stopped.

Many glasses of Turkish apple tea later, we left the store with some packages and a slightly used credit card.

THE MILLION LIRA QUESTION

When it was time to say goodbye, the question of tips came up.

What exactly do you tip someone who has guided a Hollywood superstar and who practically dug up most of Ephesus with his bare hands?

Somewhat compelled to match our appreciation for an educational and entertaining week to his impressive qualifications and to what we imagined might have been Mel Gibson’s Hollywood-sized tip, we gave an amount perhaps larger than necessary.

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