Everyone flies to Hokkaido in the winter to ski. However, it’s actually just as wonderful in the summer. This is when the flowers are in bloom and the trees are a verdant shade of green that represent hope and life. It’s pure happiness to stroll around, enjoying the clear skies and cool weather.

This was how we felt, staying for a few days at the Chalet Mizunara. This is a lovely four-bedroom modern villa that we found via the Elite Havens website. It’s considered one of the nicest rental villas in the neighborhood of Lower Hirafu, an area popular with tourists.

One day, we’d just had brunch and were relaxing in the living room. Niseko Gourmet offers catering for Chalet Mizunara and we’d taken them up for daily brunches and dinners. That particular day, Annie of Niseko Gourmet had made the most delicious chicken rice at my request. We’d eaten way too much and something healthy was in order.

HOME SERVICE MASSAGE IN NISEKO

This was when the idea hit me. I asked Annie: “Is there a good masseuse who can come over?”

What better way to spend the afternoon, than having a relaxing massage several hours after a relaxing meal. Annie had a quick answer. A French lady named Melody actually offered massage treatments for Chalet Mizunara guests. She literally brought a spa with her. She had a large folding massage table, a pile of fluffy towels, and even spa music on demand.

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We read books until Melody arrived with her paraphernalia. Entering the living room, she asked cheerfully: “Where shall we set up for the massage?”

I looked around the villa as there were several options for a massage venue. We even had extra bedrooms to turn into a spa treatment room, if needed. But the second floor terrace suddenly caught my eye. So I said: “Can we have an al fresco massage? On the terrace?”

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The second floor terrace of the Chalet Mizunara is surrounded by greenery so there is enough privacy. Melody replied: “That’s a wonderful idea.” She quickly set up the spa on the terrace and we took turns getting the knots kneaded out of our backs.

Melody turned out to be one of the best massage therapists I’d ever met. She had a sixth sense for aches and pains, and a skilled touch. Furthermore, it was wonderful to lie on a massage bed in the open air hearing the birds chirping around.

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When my 60 minutes of bliss were over, I couldn’t wait to have it all over again. So I quickly booked her for every afternoon of our stay. And then it became a wonderful way of spending our days at the Chalet Mizunara, living a Travelife.

Read more about the best hotels and resorts in Japan in Travelife Magazine.

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The Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono is a massive luxury resort complex. It’s so big that you’ll be forgiven for assuming it has everything a fastidious traveler could want. It has 11 excellent restaurants, after all. Also, it’s gifted with a hotel team that doesn’t seem to have never used the word “no.”

Most of the things we experienced during our stay were absolutely wonderful. Even the experienced traveler in me was slightly surprised. We were in the middle of the COVID-19 pandemic that had brought the world to its knees. How could this hotel still manage to make its guests so happy?

Manpower resources were low for every luxury hotel in Japan at that time. In fact, most hotel teams were operating at 30% to 50% capacity. Nevertheless the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono delivered a wonderful experience befitting, if not over, its fancy price tag. This is not a cheap hotel.

HOW TO FORGET ABOUT THE PANDEMIC

However we enjoyed ourselves so much that we actually forgot about the COVID-19 virus raging in the world outside our cocoon — even just for a few days. For the pandemic-weary, this temporary respite from the coronavirus, as offered by the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono, is expensive. Nevertheless, it is worth every yen.

SWEET SURPRISES AT THE PARK HYATT NISEKO HANAZONO

Sometimes, too, the sweetest delights are the most unexpected. What a treat it was to discover that famous Parisian patissier Pierre Herme actually had an outpost for his cakes and sweets at the hotel. It was so far from civilization as we usually know it. After all, Pierre Herme has been called the “Picasso of Pastry.” Moreover, his shop in Paris along Rue Cambon is a major destination for travelers with deep pockets and a sweet tooth.

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Well, happily, Pierre Herme fans need not travel so far anymore for their fix. He has outlets in Japan, of course. However, this is the only Pierre Herme outlet I know of so far in Hokkaido, land of excellent cream and butter. In addition, the hotel has a sweets counter right in the lobby and it’s filled with the classic cakes that Pierre Herme has become famous for.

Of course, there are the classic assorted macarons that every Pierre Herme fan know very well. What makes the Pierre Herme counter at the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono very special, however, is the extraordinary variety of cakes and tarts.

THE PIERRE HERME SOFT CREAM SUNDAE

Every cake that made Pierre Herme famous was available at the hotel when we were there. Best of all, the Pierre Herme soft cream sundae, made with pure Hokkaido milk and cream and garnished with summer berries and syrup.

This soft cream sundae, which is so characteristic of Hokkaido and yet also of the best of Pierre Herme, was so good. So I actually ordered it two days in a row. I even managed to get it delivered to the suite so I could sit in the corner living room with beautiful views of the Mount Yotei, having my sundae. II was ever so happy to disregard calories and simply live a delicious Travelife.

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The joys of renting a holiday villa with a housekeeper and a caterer should never be underestimated. It’s nice to go to somewhere new for an adventure, while basing yourself in a lovely house. However, having meals prepared every day by a professional team, who will also clean up afterwards, enables everyone to truly relax.

RENTING A VILLA IN HOKKAIDO

We booked the Chalet Mizunara of Elite Havens Luxury Villa Rentals and Management at the end of our two-week stay in Hokkaido amidst the COVID-19 pandemic. It’s a lovely four-bedroom house in the area of Hirafu, which is popular among tourists.

The villa comes with housekeeping services and prepared meals are offered as an option, which we gladly took. So every day, we had the delicious task of choosing what we wanted for breakfast and dinner from a wide variety offered by the Niseko Gourmet Catering company.

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Upon arrival, for instance, we suddenly were inspired to eat crab. Hokkaido is famous for its crab, after all. So I messaged the Elite Havens team: “Can we hire a chef to prepare Hokkaido crab for us for dinner on our first night?”

As it was short notice, the chefs of Niseko Gourmet were already all booked for catering jobs at other villas. However, Therese of the Elite Havens team replied: “We can’t send any of our chefs as they’ve all got other jobs that night. But we can send over Hokkaido crab and seafood for shabu shabu. We’ll bring it over and set everything up. How does that sound?”

It sounded perfect. So we arrived at the villa mid-afternoon and at 6 PM, the Niseko Gourmet team was at the Mizunara Chalet to set the table and prepare the food. All we had to do was sit and eat. And, of course, it was delicious.

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CHICKEN RICE FOR BREAKFAST

That same night, before leaving us, Annie from Niseko Gourmet asked me: “What would you like for breakfast?”

I replied, on a sudden inspiration: “Chicken rice, please!”

This is one of the choices on offer for breakfast and it happens to be one of my favorite foods in the world.

Well, when we woke up the next day, Annie was already busy in the kitchen preparing our chicken rice breakfast. She brought all the ingredients in a large box and made our food from scratch.

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WHAT’S COOKING IN THE KITCHEN

Before going out on a short walk around Hirafu, I peeked at what she was cooking. Chicken was boiling in a large pot and fragrant rice was already in the rice cooker. There was even roast pork in the oven as an extra dish.

When we returned to Mizunara Chalet, our breakfast was ready. It was brunch, really. And it was among the best chicken rice I’ve ever tasted. As for renting a holiday villa with delicious food prepared for you every day, well, that is true luxury as far as I’m concerned.

Read more about the best hotels and resorts in Japan in Travelife Magazine.

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On holiday for two weeks in beautiful Hokkaido, we ended our stay with several days at the Chalet Mizunara of Elite Havens Luxury Villa Rentals and Management. Located in a quiet street of vacation homes in Lower Hirafu, it’s a lovely four bedroom house that’s ever so relaxing.

ABOUT CHALET MIZUNARA IN NISEKO OF ELITE HAVENS

Meanwhile, the Chalet Mizunara is an attractive contemporary house. It’s all concrete, polished wood and steel so it has an industrial but warm feel. Most guests reportedly like it immediately. We certainly did.

In the summer, guests can enjoy views of greenery from the terraces and big picture windows. Meanwhile, in the winter, when the big tree behind the house sheds its leaves, guests are treated to a majestic view of Mount Yotei. As far as residents in Niseko are concerned, this is the million yen view that separates premium properties from ordinary ones.

A HOUSE DESIGNED FOR SNOW

From the outside, the villa looks like a simple box-like structure. The kind you’d expect to see in Niseko. Because of its extreme winter climate, the walls are thick for heat insulation and these have the added bonus of being cool in the summer. Meanwhile, the overall shape of the house is functional for heavy snowfall.

LAYOUT OF CHALET MIZUNARA

However, when you enter, it is anything but simple. For one thing, every living space is on a different level. There are two bedrooms and utility rooms on the ground floor, and guests usually enter from a double door entrance on the first floor.

From the entrance foyer, it’s a flight of stairs up to the living room and the first terrace. Then there’s a sitting area with book shelves and a fireplace two steps up. Meanwhile, the kitchen and the long dining table are on another level.

HOUSE WITH A VIEW OF MOUNT YOTEI

Two ensuite master bedrooms occupy the top floor and share a massive terrace with the best views of Mount Yotei in the winter. Each has a spacious bathroom with a deep built-in bathtub that’s a cross between a Japanese-style soaking tub and an oversized Western-style bathtub.

The design throughout Chalet Mizunara is stylish and yet practical. Everything has muted colors and clean lines so the effect is quite relaxing.

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It’s also constructed to house large families comfortably. For one thing, there are enough bathrooms for everyone. This feature should not be underestimated by holiday makers when choosing the best villa to book in Niseko. In general, bathrooms are always in short supply when everyone is in a rush to head for the ski slopes at the same time.

THE IMPORTANCE OF BATHROOMS

The situation is especially acute in Japanese-style homes. The idea of ensuite bathrooms plus extra bathrooms for the common areas is very much a Western concept so please make sure to ask about the number of bathrooms when renting.

There are also enough nooks and crannies at Chalet Mizunara so that every guest can find some peace and quiet without others getting in the way. I suppose this is the beauty of the multi-level construction.

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Again, this feature is especially vital for villa rentals in Hokkaido in the winter. You see, amidst the extreme cold of Hokkaido, you’re basically confined to your villa unless you are out skiing or doing adventure sports.

Meanwhile, the Chalet Mizunara is perfect in the summer. You can open all the windows and terrace doors to allow in the breeze, and everywhere you look is a fresh green. The birds are chirping, the flowers are blooming and every day is just wonderful.

Read more about the best places to stay in Hokkaido in Travelife Magazine.

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Niseko is world-famous for its powder snow and luxury ski resorts, but when it comes to dining, one name rises above them all: Molière Montagne at the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono. Widely regarded as the best restaurant in Niseko, it brings the prestige of French haute cuisine to the snowy mountains of Hokkaido.

Created by the team behind Sapporo’s legendary three-Michelin-starred Molière, this outpost combines world-class technique with the seasonal bounty of Hokkaido — seafood from icy northern waters, mountain vegetables, and pristine dairy from local farms. The result is more than a meal: it’s a culinary performance that has redefined what fine dining in Niseko can be.

Molière Montaigne : Fine Dining in Niseko

The stage for this gastronomic experience could not be more spectacular. Nestled in the snow-covered mountains of Niseko, the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono exudes understated luxury. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame views of white slopes and pine forests, while the interiors balance sleek, modern lines with natural textures that reflect Hokkaido’s landscape.

It’s the kind of backdrop that elevates every course, where fine dining becomes inseparable from place. At Molière Montagne, the restaurant feels both cosmopolitan and deeply rooted in its alpine surroundings.

Chef Hiroshi Nakamichi’s Restaurant at the Park Hyatt Niseko

We dined at Molière Montagne, the newest venture of Michelin three-star chef Hiroshi Nakamichi, one of Japan’s most respected culinary figures. Known for elevating Hokkaido’s local ingredients to international acclaim, Nakamichi has created a restaurant in Niseko that mirrors his philosophy: refined, original, and deeply tied to the land.

This sister restaurant to Sapporo’s iconic Molière brings his artistry into the heart of Niseko’s luxury resort scene. Under his vision, the Niseko outpost has already become a destination in itself, attracting food lovers who travel as much for the cuisine as for the snow.

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Fine Dining in Niseko

Our meal began with an array of artful appetizers, each plate crafted to delight both the eye and palate. The presentation was so striking that for a moment, no one at the table wanted to disturb it.

Then came the first showstopper: an entire shellfish cloaked in a crust of black squid, its dramatic appearance matched by its rich, oceanic flavors. Conversation stopped as we took the first bite, each of us immersed in the sheer brilliance of the dish.

Next, Nakamichi sent out a plate that embodies his style: grilled pork on the bone, served on a bed of fresh tree branches. The smoky aroma of pine mingled with the tender meat, creating a dish that was not only delicious but evocative of Hokkaido’s forests.

Every course balanced precision with imagination. Western in technique yet Japanese in sensibility, Nakamichi’s cooking transcends categories, making Molière Montagne unlike any other restaurant in Niseko.

About Chef Nakamichi of Hokkaido

The food was excellent as it has always been. Chef Nakamichi is known for using the best ingredients from around Hokkaido, but in a most original way. His cooking is neither quite Western nor Japanese, although the original Moliere in Sapporo is known as a French restaurant. After receiving three Michelin stars, I believe Chef Nakamichi’s cooking evolved superbly.

We began with an assortment of Instagram-worthy appetisers and then went on to two main courses — both so good that all conversation stopped at the table. To start we each had an entire shellfish covered in a crust of black squid.

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Signature Dishes of Moliere

The chef then sent us a dish charateristic of Nakamichi: grilled meat — this time juicy pork on bone — arrived, arranged tantalizingly on a bed of fresh tree branches.

He also made the famous cheese with berries dessert of Chef Nakamichi at the end of the evening. I’ve eaten this dessert at the Sapporo restaurant so many times. Seeing this again felt like a sign that normal times are not too far off.

Dining at Molière Montagne at the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono is more than a luxurious meal. It is a seamless blend of artistry, atmosphere, and terroir, shaped by Chef Hiroshi Nakamichi’s singular vision. Every dish tells the story of Hokkaido — its seas, its mountains, its seasons — yet carries the refinement of global haute cuisine.

Few restaurants manage to capture both place and perfection with such ease. That is why Molière is not just a dining option in Niseko; it is the best restaurant in Niseko, and one of the most memorable fine dining experiences in all of Japan.

Read more about the best hotels in Hokkaido in Travelife Magazine

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