There are hotels that impress you with their size, their marble lobbies and their armies of staff. And then there is Passalacqua, which does almost the opposite.

Hidden behind gates in the little village of Moltrasio, on the western shore of Lake Como, Passalacqua has just 24 rooms and suites scattered among an 18th-century villa, its former stables and a romantic house beside the lake. From the road, there is little indication of what lies beyond. Inside, seven acres of terraced gardens tumble towards the water, punctuated by fountains, ancient trees and terraces seemingly designed for doing very little at all.

When I first visited in July 2023, Passalacqua had been open barely a year. It was already one of those addresses being passed quietly among people who travel often and know where to go before everyone else does.

Two months later, the secret was well and truly out: Passalacqua was named The World’s Best Hotel 2023 in the inaugural World’s 50 Best Hotels ranking.

And perhaps the most remarkable thing about it is that it still doesn’t really feel like a hotel.

AN ARISTOCRATIC HOUSE ON LAKE COMO

Passalacqua’s story stretches back much further than its relatively recent life as a hotel.

The villa as it stands today was created at the end of the 18th century for Count Andrea Lucini-Passalacqua by the Milanese architect Carlo Felice Soave, enlarging an earlier property once owned by Pope Innocent XI.

Its history reads rather wonderfully like the cast list of an Italian period drama. Composer Vincenzo Bellini stayed here and, in 1831, composed La Sonnambula at the villa. Over subsequent generations the house passed through a succession of colourful owners, while illustrious visitors reportedly included Winston Churchill.

In 2018, the property was acquired by the De Santis family, the Lake Como hoteliers behind the celebrated Grand Hotel Tremezzo. What followed was a three-year restoration before Passalacqua opened as a hotel in June 2022.

The result isn’t a conventional restoration where everything old has been made suspiciously perfect. Instead, Passalacqua feels layered — as though generations of rather glamorous people have lived here, collected beautiful things, moved furniture around and occasionally decided that another Murano chandelier was exactly what the room needed.

TOTAL MAKEOVER

The transformation must have been extraordinary.

The De Santis family took what had become a fading historic estate and restored it with an almost obsessive attention to detail. Original frescoes and architectural elements coexist with gilded mirrors, antique furniture, patterned fabrics, elaborate headboards, paintings, photographs, porcelain and a glorious abundance of decorative objects.

Minimalism has very clearly not been invited to Lake Como.

And that is precisely the charm.

There is a confidence to the interiors that makes today’s carefully coordinated beige luxury hotels seem rather timid by comparison. Nothing appears chosen because a designer decided it was “on trend.” Rooms feel collected rather than decorated.

Outside, meanwhile, the gardens descend in terraces towards Lake Como and the hotel’s private jetty. There are olive trees, roses, magnolias and fountains, along with a tennis court, bocce, an outdoor gym and a swimming pool surrounded by wonderfully cheerful parasols.

Then there is the hotel’s little orange Fiat 500 Spiaggina, which has become almost as photographed as the villa itself.

WELCOME TO THE CLUB

When I stayed, in July 2023, Passalacqua had not yet received its World’s Best Hotel title. But something was clearly happening. It already had the atmosphere of a private club whose membership consisted of an entertaining mixture of the rich, the famous and the extremely well-dressed.

The influencers were fairly easy to identify. They generally dressed better than everybody else and tended to travel around the property accompanied by selfie sticks.

The genuinely famous were harder to spot.

Most looked as though they were enjoying a holiday from their public lives: linen shirts, cotton sundresses, sandals, sunglasses and plenty of sunscreen. Unlike Lake Como’s larger grand hotels, where arriving guests inevitably pass through conspicuous public spaces, Passalacqua feels remarkably protected from the outside world.

Once the gates close behind you, there is very little reason for anyone else to know you are there.

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE DETAILS

The grand entrance is Passalacqua at its most theatrical: soaring ceilings, an elegant double staircase, flowers and enormous blue-and-white porcelain jars creating something close to the entrance hall of an aristocratic palazzo.

Then the scale changes.

Much of the rest of the hotel consists of relatively intimate rooms leading into one another — sitting rooms, salons and corners in which to disappear for an hour.

This is one of Passalacqua’s cleverest qualities. For all its decorative exuberance, it rarely feels formal.

Windows open towards the gardens. Sofas invite sprawling rather than posing. Books, pictures and objects fill almost every available surface. You can quite easily imagine that the owners have simply gone out for the afternoon and left you the house.

The bar is similarly intimate, occupying two small rooms rather than some cavernous cocktail lounge. One lends itself to afternoon tea or drinks with friends; the other has the comfortable disorder of a bar in someone’s exceptionally nice summer house.

That sense of domesticity extends to the bedrooms.

Passalacqua’s 24 rooms and suites are divided among three very different buildings: 12 in the main Villa, eight in the Palazz, the former stables, and four in Casa al Lago, tucked into the gardens close to the water.

No two are quite alike.

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE DETAILS

Interestingly, the rest of the public areas are mostly one small room after another, each as cozy as the last one. With windows looking out onto the front gardens, they are the perfect — and I must say perfectly decorated to replicate an aristocrat’s tasteful home — shady places to hide from the afternoon sun with a good book, if you are the type to do so.

The main entrance is the brightest part of the hotel. It’s straight out of a royal palace, with two floor high ceilings and a very lovely double staircase lined with flowers and giant blue-and-white porcelain jars.

The bar, too, is made up of two small rooms. In one room, a family can comfortably enjoy afternoon tea or pre-dinner drinks. Meanwhile, the main bar itself is more of a cozy corner with a counter and bar stools, and again art and paraphernalia everywhere to make you feel like you are a guest in someone’s summer home.

SMILES ALL AROUND

And then there are the people.

Aside from its beauty, what stayed with me most about Passalacqua was the staff. Everyone seemed genuinely pleased that you were there. Requests were handled without fuss. There was warmth without overfamiliarity and attentiveness without the uncomfortable sensation of being constantly attended to.

That distinction matters.

The very best luxury hotels understand that service is not about reminding guests how much service they are receiving. It is about making everything feel effortless.

Passalacqua manages this particularly well because the service suits the house. You are treated less like the occupant of Room 12 and more like a guest who happens to be staying for a few days.

My favourite ritual was wonderfully simple: champagne and canapés at sunset, sitting in one of the elegant pergola facing Lake Como. Nothing could possibly be wrong with the world, with a view like this at sunset.

Below, the lake changed colour as the light disappeared behind the mountains. Around us were gardens that had been here in one form or another for centuries. And behind us stood a villa that somehow felt less like one of the world’s great hotels than an extraordinarily beautiful private home.

Which, perhaps, is the greatest luxury of all.

FROM SECRET ADDRESS TO WORLD-BEST HOTEL

When I visited in July 2023, Passalacqua was still something of an insider’s address. By September, that changed dramatically when it became the inaugural World’s Best Hotel.

The accolades have continued. Passalacqua ranked No. 2 in the world in 2024 and No. 4 in 2025, when it was also named The Best Hotel in Europe and received the Best Boutique Hotel Award.

Yet awards only explain part of its appeal.

Lake Como has no shortage of grand hotels, famous villas and extraordinary views. What Passalacqua has managed to create is something rather harder to manufacture: intimacy.

It is grand without being pompous, extravagant without taking itself too seriously, and luxurious without constantly reminding you how much everything costs.

And with only 24 rooms hidden away behind those gates in Moltrasio, it retains the delicious illusion that somehow, for a few days, the whole place belongs to you.

Passalacqua is located in Moltrasio on Lake Como, approximately 15 minutes by car from Como and about an hour from Milan.

There is something especially seductive about hotels that still feel like private houses.

Passalacqua achieves this on Lake Como through intimacy, history and the sense that guests have been invited into a beautiful home rather than checked into a conventional hotel. It is a quality I have come to appreciate even more in places such as La Esperanza Granada, a private hacienda in Andalusia where the experience is similarly built around space, privacy and the luxury of having an entire estate feel almost entirely your own.

The settings could hardly be more different — Lake Como on one hand, the hills outside Granada on the other — but the appeal is surprisingly similar: beautiful architecture, gardens, long lunches, unhurried afternoons and the increasingly rare pleasure of staying somewhere with the soul of a home rather than the machinery of a hotel.

Passalacqua is a member of Preferred Hotels and Resorts. Read more about the best hotels in the world in Travelife Magazine.

The post Inside Passalacqua: one of the world’s best hotels appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

Baan Phraya: Thai Fine Dining at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok

There are hotels one visits, and there are hotels that become part of the mythology of a city. The Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok belongs to that rare category of hotels that are destinations in their own right.

For nearly 150 years, the hotel has occupied one of Bangkok’s most storied positions on the Chao Phraya River. It has welcomed writers, royalty, diplomats and generations of travelers.

Through all this, food has always been part of that history. For decades, one of the quintessential experiences of staying here has involved crossing the river for dinner at Sala Rim Naam, the hotel’s celebrated Thai restaurant.

Now the Mandarin Oriental offers another reason to make that crossing. Baan Phraya, an intimate fine-dining restaurant housed in a century-old riverside residence, presents a distinctly different expression of Thai cuisine. Rather than competing with Sala Rim Naam, the hotel’s longstanding showcase of traditional Thai cuisine, music and dance, Baan Phraya looks to Thailand’s culinary heritage and gives a contemporary chef the freedom to interpret it for today.

We saved Baan Phraya for our final evening, after spending a week at the Mandarin Oriental. It turned out to be one of the most memorable dinners of our stay — and a wonderful way to say goodbye to Bangkok.

One Night in Bangkok

Our evening began before we even crossed the river. The hotel management had invited a small group of guests for cocktails in the historic Authors’ Lounge, one of the Mandarin Oriental’s loveliest spaces. Pale rattan furniture, tropical flowers and the building’s graceful architecture give the room a natural elegance.

It also has a rare authenticity. Walking through the lounge, one feels as though little has changed even as Bangkok has transformed around it.

The kitchen sent out a succession of excellent canapés with the drinks, and they were so generous that I joked we could quite happily have made dinner of them. Fortunately, we didn’t. Baan Phraya awaited across the Chao Phraya.

A House with a History

Baan Phraya occupies a Thai riverside residence dating from 1897, once home to Phraya Mahai Savan and his wife, Khunying Luean Mahai Savan. The couple regularly entertained here, and Khunying Luean was known for her cooking. Almost a century later, in 1986, the Oriental Hotel established its Thai Cooking School in the house. Today, guests have returned to the residence for much the same reason they did more than a century ago: to eat well.

The restoration respects that history without turning the house into a museum. We walked through a narrow passage lined with beautiful botanical wallpaper before entering the main dining room. In the latter, shades of green and white, handsome ceramics and warm brass details create a sophisticated but restful setting. The room feels contemporary, yet there is no mistaking that you are inside a traditional Thai house.

An open kitchen brings another dimension to the space. From the dining room, we could watch the chefs working beneath handsome brass lamps. This added a sense of intimacy to what might otherwise have been another rather formal tasting-menu experience.

Cocktails on the Terrace

Weather permitting, dinner begins outdoors on the terrace, where guests settle into wicker chairs surrounded by flowers and tropical greenery for the first appetizers and a pre-dinner drink.

The cocktail menu alone is worth studying. Familiar drinks acquire a distinctly regional accent: a Ylang Ylang Gin Tonic with som saa, a Vietnamese Coriander Mojito, a Coconut Prakaan Old Fashioned with Thai whisky, coconut and chocolate bitters, and a Curry Leaf Grasshopper with kaffir lime and fresh coconut milk.

Many of the herbs used by the bar and kitchen come from Baan Phraya’s own organic garden.

I chose the Rose Kombucha, made with umeshu, Amaro Montenegro, rose kombucha and verjus. Deep pink and finished with a tiny rose, it was aromatic and gently tart rather than sweet — an excellent beginning to a long dinner.

The First Bites

The tasting menu began on the terrace with three small bites: a crisp pineapple wafer with peanut and tamarind; a Thai honeycomb biscuit with herbs and an eggplant-custard infusion; and savory ice-vine leaves with roasted rice and coriander.

They were intricate without being fussy. Sweetness, acidity, herbs, heat and texture appeared in carefully judged proportions, and although the forms belonged unmistakably to a contemporary fine-dining kitchen, the flavors remained firmly rooted in Thailand.

With those first tastes behind us, we moved inside for the rest of dinner.

About Chef Pom of Baan Phraya

At the center of Baan Phraya is Chef Phatchara “Pom” Pirapak, who grew up in Yasothon in northeastern Thailand and traces much of her early interest in food to her grandmother’s cooking. She draws on regional traditions, old recipes and traditional techniques, but does not treat them as something that must be preserved unchanged.

The restaurant describes her approach as “refined home cooking,” and as dinner progressed, the phrase began to make sense. There was considerable technique behind the meal, but it rarely overwhelmed the ingredients. Tamarind, chilli, galangal, coconut, jasmine, pandan and an extraordinary variety of fresh herbs remained at the heart of the cooking.

Her menu also reaches well beyond Bangkok. Ours drew ingredients and inspiration from the Gulf of Siam, Isan, Prachuap Khiri Khan, Nakhon Pathom, Surat Thani, Khao Yai and Chainat. Yet the meal never announced itself as a culinary tour of Thailand. The geography emerged naturally through what we ate.

The Ingredients Come First

One of the most interesting aspects of dinner was the way the team introduced many of the courses. Rather than simply placing a finished dish before us and listing its components, they often began with the ingredients.

Fresh herbs, roots, lemongrass and other produce appeared in generous arrangements while the staff explained what we were about to eat. At other moments, we saw the cooking vessel or the main ingredient before the finished dish reached the table.

This added context without turning dinner into a lesson. It also made us look more closely at the building blocks of Thai cooking before seeing how Chef Pom had put them together.

Jewels of the Ocean

Seafood produced some of the most memorable dishes of the evening. A Gulf of Siam banana-prawn tartare came with Isan herbs and roasted rice, followed by squid from Prachuap Khiri Khan in a coconut broth fragrant with galangal, aromatic herbs and pink peppercorns.

Then a coconut shell arrived nestled in a profusion of fresh Thai herbs. The lid lifted to reveal marinated bamboo fish, which had been grilled in the coconut shell itself and was served with house-made pickled papaya. This was one of my favorite presentations of the night.

The coconut did more than provide spectacle. It showed us how the fish had been prepared, while the surrounding herbs added fragrance as the shell opened. The presentation enhanced our understanding of the dish instead of distracting from it.

The Surat Thani River Prawn

By this point in our trip, I had developed a serious fondness for Thai river prawns. We had just spent several days traveling between Bangkok and Ayutthaya aboard Loy Dream, a restored teak rice barge, where enormous river prawns had been among my favorite things to eat.

So I was delighted when another appeared at Baan Phraya. This one came not from Ayutthaya but from Surat Thani in southern Thailand. Chef Pom grilled it and served it with its rich tomalley, young tamarind and chilli paste.

The preparation was more refined than the river prawns we had eaten during our journey, but the kitchen resisted the temptation to do too much. The sweetness of the prawn, the richness of its tomalley and the sharpness of tamarind and chilli carried the dish. It was one of my favorites of the evening.

Rice from the Clay Pot

Amid the intricacy of the tasting menu came one of its simplest pleasures. Rice arrived in a generous earthenware pot and was spooned onto our plates at the table.

I loved this detail. Surrounded by beautiful ceramics, elaborate presentations and precise plating, a clay pot of warm rice brought an appealing note of domesticity to dinner. For a moment, the experience connected with the familiar rhythm of a Thai meal.

Often, these are the details I remember longest. Luxury is at its most convincing when it stops calling attention to itself and simply becomes hospitality.

The Perfect Roast Duck, Thai Style

The main course was refreshingly simple and impeccably executed. Before carving it, the team brought a whole roasted free-range Khao Yai duck to the table, its burnished skin beautifully scored and the bird surrounded by fresh herbs.

It returned as perfectly pink slices of breast accompanied by sour grape and heart of palm, with fragrant green-curry sauce poured at the table. After some of the more elaborate courses that preceded it, I particularly enjoyed the restraint.

The duck was beautifully cooked, the curry had depth without overwhelming the meat, and nothing on the plate felt unnecessary. The kitchen had done the hard work; the finished dish did not need to advertise it.

Sweet Charm of Siam

Dessert remained firmly in Thailand. Mulberry-honey granita from Chainat came with organic jasmine flower, bitter orange and talipot palm, a refreshing combination of floral, citrus and gently bitter notes.

Next came roasted silver banana with pandan ice cream, crispy baby rice and coconut emulsion. The banana arrived deeply caramelized and almost whole, turning one of Southeast Asia’s most familiar fruits into an elegant dessert without losing its essential character. What a delightful twist on some very basic Southeast Asian food and ingredients.

A final selection of petit fours extended dinner for a few delicious minutes longer.

Back Across the Chao Phraya

Bangkok hardly lacks ambitious restaurants, and its contemporary Thai dining scene has become one of the most exciting in Asia. Baan Phraya, however, possesses something no kitchen can create through technique alone: a genuine sense of place.

We had eaten Thai food in a century-old Thai home beside the Chao Phraya, in a house where guests once gathered for meals and where generations later visitors learned to cook Thai food. Today, Chef Pom and her team are writing the next chapter of that story.

After dinner, we stepped back into the warm Bangkok night and boarded the boat for the short journey to the Mandarin Oriental. The hotel lights shimmered across the water ahead of us.

A Fitting Farewell to Bangkok

Only a few hours earlier, our evening had begun with cocktails and canapés in the Authors’ Lounge. It ended across the river in a century-old house, after a dinner that managed to look forward without losing sight of where it came from.

Travel is often remembered through monuments and grand views, but the moments that stay with me tend to be smaller and more sensory: crossing a river for dinner, the scent released when a coconut shell is opened, warm rice spooned from a clay pot, or the sight of a perfectly roasted duck carried through the dining room before it is carved.

After a week at one of Bangkok’s legendary hotels, Baan Phraya gave us one last memory to take home. It was difficult to imagine a more fitting way to say goodbye to the city.

FROM BANGKOK TO GRANADA

If you love places with a story…

Part of the pleasure of dining at Baan Phraya at the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok is the experience beyond the plate. History, architecture and a strong sense of place become part of the evening.

In southern Spain, La Esperanza Granada offers a very different expression of the same idea: a private Andalusian hacienda surrounded by olive and citrus groves, created for destination weddings, private stays and intimate retreats near Granada.

IF YOU GO

Baan Phraya
Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok

Baan Phraya is located in a restored historic Thai residence on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, near The Oriental Thai Cooking School and The Oriental Spa. Guests staying at Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok can reach the restaurant aboard the hotel’s complimentary river boat — a short crossing that is very much part of the experience.

Dinner begins with drinks and appetizers on the terrace, weather permitting, before continuing inside the house with Chef Phatchara “Pom” Pirapak’s contemporary Thai tasting menu. Reservations are essential.

Dinner: Friday to Tuesday, from 6:00 PM
Pre-dinner drinks: From 5:00 PM
Tasting menu: THB 3,800++ per person
Wine pairing: THB 2,800++
Non-alcoholic pairing: THB 1,400++

READ MORE ABOUT THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES IN BANGKOK AND IN THAILAND IN TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE

The post A Good Reason to Cross the Chao Praya in Bangkok appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

We recently embarked on a private voyage aboard the Loy Dream of Anantara Hotels and Loy Pela from Bangkok to Ayutthaya. Over four days, we sailed down the Chao Praya River from a pier in the city center towards the Gulf of Thailand before turning north for Bang Pa-In Palace and Thailand’s ancient capital on a restored century-old Thai rice barge.

Most travelers fly to Thailand for a beach holiday, a cultural excursion in Chiang Mai, or a food trip in Bangkok. We decided to make the trip across Asia to re-discover a very short stretch of Thailand in the most unusual way: by retracing the journey taken by the first foreign dignitaries to set foot in Thailand, sailing from the Gulf of Siam to Ayutthaya to pay respects to the King.

Taking the red-eye from Tokyo to Bangkok, we arrived early enough to beat Bangkok’s infamous traffic and drove directly to Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort. Here, moored at riverside, the Loy Dream, a restored rice barge with two staterooms, making it the perfect private charter for families, was waiting for us.

We were early for our 8 a.m. departure, so tropical fruit and fresh coconut juice appeared while we waited. Before long, two stewards, one dressed in the cruise uniform and the other in more formal Thai dress, approached us.

“Welcome to Bangkok,” one of them said. “We will be taking care of you for your cruise.”

They led us down to the river, where we saw Loy Dream for the first time. I’d seen photos of it when booking. However, meeting it in person for the first time gave it depth and life.

Meet the Loy Dream, a Century-Old Thai Rice Barge

I had wanted to charter a boat somewhere in Asia this summer, but I had been quite specific about what I did not want. Modern yachts, however luxurious, were out. There are plenty of them in Asia and the Mediterranean, and after a while — like many cruise ships in a certain category — they begin to look the same. It’s just the wallpaper and the color scheme that differs.

I wanted something that spoke to me specifically of Thailand.

The Loy Dream was exactly what I had hoped for. At 18 metres, she was long and low on the water. She still had the broad wooden hull of the rice barge she once was and a covered upper deck that looked almost as though a small Thai house had been placed on top. Round portholes punctuated the hull; dark timber, carved panels and ornate railings replaced the chrome and glass of a modern yacht.

Approximately a century old and restored for private luxury cruising, Loy Dream has just two staterooms and accommodates a maximum of four passengers. Against the high-rises of Bangkok, she looked wonderfully out of place. For the next four days, the entire boat belonged to us.

Within minutes of boarding, I knew I had made the right decision. In my mind at least, Bangkok had become Old Siam.

Inside Loy Dream

Within minutes of going onboard, I was already taking photos of everything. The main deck, with its traditional Thai accents, was so picturesque, and the observation deck was especially inviting.

I was about to sit down and relax when our steward invited me to further explore the boat.

“Perhaps you would like to see your stateroom first and prepare for the voyage?” our steward suggested. It was true. I was still wearing my sleeping travel wear from Tokyo, which was not quite vacation mode, and I needed to unpack to get the frenetic Tokyo vibe out of my system.

I followed him down a staircase and through a narrow hallway to a room at the end. This was to be my room, and I immediately liked it.

It was unconventional and slightly challenging considering the number of steps to navigate in one room. However, Anantara Hotels and Loy Pela had done what they could with the basic boat, since it had after all began life as a workhorse of a boat rather than a floating hotel.

The stateroom was deep rather than conventionally wide and arranged over several levels to fit the proportions of the original barge.

The walls were washed in pale celadon green, with polished timber underfoot, carved Thai screens, and a round porthole looking directly onto the river. Several steps above the entrance, the bed occupied its own raised wooden platform, almost like a room within the room, dressed in white linen and Thai textiles.

Down a few steps was a dressing area with an elaborate mirror. Beyond it came the surprise: a generously sized bathroom with a proper glass-enclosed shower and plenty of room to move around.

Loy Dream may have begun life carrying rice, but nobody was asking us to live like cargo. This is a luxury barge for travelers seeking a different way to travel. I had imagined spending hours on this raised bed with a book, watching the river through the porthole. In fact, I think I sat there exactly once.

Almost all our waking hours were spent upstairs because it was truly special.

Life Aboard Loy Dream

The covered upper deck ran almost the length of the boat, with polished floorboards, black woven chairs, Thai furniture, flowers, a dining table and broad openings on either side. At the bow, ornate railings framed the river ahead.

My favorite place was a green daybed piled with Thai silk cushions. From there, I could put my feet up and watch live alone the river. Perfect, especially with some fresh coconut juice.

We had barely unpacked when the first activities began. The Anantara Hotels and Loy Pela Voyages do not just offer you a boat. When you book with them, you get an entire experience curated just for you.

My daughter had a yoga session, while a practitioner from Anantara’s spa turned part of the upper deck into a treatment room for my gua sha facial, using a jade scraper and roller. My husband had a traditional Thai massage nearby.

Meanwhile, Bangkok continued as usual outside.

Lunch on the Chao Phraya

By noon, our private chef had made an appearance and discussed with us the extensive line-up of food he had in mind for our journey. Prior, I had sent over dietary preferences and requests (pad Thai!), which were duly noted.

“You wanted fresh coconut juice with every meal,” he said. “Just to let you know that we have thirty coconuts onboard.”

Meals aboard were generally served as multi-course menus rather than family-style spreads, and the table was set with the most beautiful Benjarong tableware.

Having dined in the best restaurants in the world, there was nothing to fault — especially when one realizes the tiny kitchen the chef has to work with on an 18-meter boat, and the high standards guests expect the team onboard to uphold. This is not the world’s most expensive four-day cruise; but neither was it the cheapest in the luxury category.

Our first lunch began with a composed salad, followed by prawns and crisp pastry, and finished with ripe mango, purple sticky rice and coconut cream. The dishes were extremely good.

“This is much better than I expected,” I said to my husband, who had always been skeptical of any kind of cruise from the start. But this one one him over from the start.

From the River to Muay Thai

The voyage was to be four days of learning about the traditions and culture of Thailand in a most personal way. That afternoon we began our discovery with a destination hardly on the bucket list of most travelers to Bangkok: the great green expanse contained within a bend of the Chao Phraya and commonly known as Bangkok’s “green lung.”

Our guide was waiting with bicycles and tricycles. Our first stop was a Muay Thai school set among greenery and ponds, run by a former boxing champion who had retired from competition and was now teaching local children.

“Muay Thai is tough on the body,” he told us. “I spent my life hitting my body intentionally to make it tougher in every way. Even my bones are larger due to trauma.”

Today he passes on his same winning technique to school children who come to practice after school.

FROM THE CHAO PHRAYA TO GRANADA

From a private teak barge on Thailand’s Chao Phraya to a one of the most romantic hacienda in southern Spain, some of the best journeys are about having an extraordinary place almost entirely to yourself.

Discover La Esperanza Granada — a private luxury villa near Granada for exclusive stays, weddings and celebrations in Andalusia.

Only a few hours earlier, I had been lying on the upper deck having my face worked over with a gua sha stone. Now I was standing beside a rice field watching children learn how to box.

We ended the excursion at a Hindu temple, where there were few foreign visitors and plenty of local worshippers going about their devotions. These were relatively simple stops, but that was part of their appeal. They offered glimpses of life beyond the Bangkok most visitors encounter.

After this visit, we returned to Loy Dream and continued south.

Cocktails on the Gulf of Siam

By early evening, cocktails appeared on the bow.

Flowers had been tied to Loy Dream’s ornate railings, and cocktails and a tray of Thai appetizers were set out as the light began to fade. Beyond our glasses were freighters, working ships and the lights of the industrial waterfront.

It was an unusual setting for welcome cocktails on a cruise in Thailand, and far more interesting than the conventional sunset panorama I had expected.

“Would you like another drink?” our steward asked. Of course we did. Every reasonable wish was possible on this boat.

Dinner for Three

Dinner was served beneath the curved wooden roof of the upper deck, where the table had been laid with flowers, wine glasses and exquisite Benjarong tableware.

Our chef had planned the welcome dinner as a Thai interpretation of surf and turf. A procession of small appetizers was followed by an impressive lobster served on a plate with garnishing.

“I thought we were having a pomelo salad,” I remarked to the butler, scrutinizing that evening’s menu.

“That is our chef’s version of pomelo salad, Madame,” he replied, with a smile.

I looked more closely at my food. Indeed, the garnish next to the lobster was a ball of pomelo and pickles that were to be eaten with the lobster.

“This is the most decadent pomelo salad I’ve ever had,” I said. It was also among the most delicious too.

We ended our first day with drinks on deck overlooking the ships, docks and factories of the Gulf. It had been a remarkably full day—yoga, spa treatments, lunch, cycling, Muay Thai, a temple visit, cocktails and dinner—but it had never felt as though we were being marched through a programme.

From Bangkok to Ayutthaya by River

The following morning, Loy Dream turned around and began travelling north.

We passed through Bangkok again, watching the city assemble itself from the river: luxury hotels and residential towers, old palaces, Buddhist temples, working piers and riverside houses, with boats continually cutting between them.

Then Bangkok began to fall away.

The buildings became fewer and lower. The factories disappeared. Concrete gave way to vegetation, and traditional Thai river houses began appearing along the banks. Some were modest; others were substantial wooden homes that made us wonder who had once lived there—perhaps an aristocratic family or a prosperous merchant.

Eventually even the houses too became scarce.

Into the Greenery of the Chao Phraya

There were stretches of river where almost nothing appeared to be happening at all. Ahead was broad water; along the banks were dense vegetation and great patches of aquatic plants. Occasionally another boat appeared, or a temple, or a wooden house. Then there would be nothing again for quite a while.

This was where the bow came into its own. Two woven chairs faced forward on the polished wooden deck, with nothing between us and the view except Loy Dream’s ornate railing.

This part of the voyage was particularly enjoyable because there was nothing specific we were supposed to be looking at. We could read, listen to music, have a massage or simply sit at the bow and see what appeared around the next bend.

Sometimes nothing did, and that was perfectly fine.

Arriving in Ayutthaya by River

Founded in 1350, Ayutthaya served as the capital of Siam for more than four centuries, until its destruction by a Burmese army in 1767. At its height it was one of Asia’s great centres of commerce and diplomacy, with connections extending to China, Japan, India, Persia and Europe.

Its geography explains much of its success. Ayutthaya developed on an island surrounded by three rivers connected to the sea. Foreign merchants established communities there, while the Siamese court conducted diplomacy with governments thousands of miles away.

Arriving by river put that history into context. Instead of appearing as an isolated collection of ruins reached after a drive from Bangkok, Ayutthaya became the destination of the waterways that had helped create its wealth and importance.

The boat charter included a private guide for the duration of the cruise, as well as local guides where needed. With our guide, we spent several hours exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park and other temples, walking among red-brick monasteries, weathered prangs, large Buddha images and enormous old trees that had grown around the remains.

Afterwards, it was back to the Loy Dream for a light lunch of salads and sandwiches.

At Your Service

The rest of our days followed a similar pattern, expertly arranged by Loy Pela and Anantara Hotels, but with enough flexibility to ensure that the itinerary never became an obligation.

We learned to make traditional Thai sweets from mung beans, visited temples and historical sites, and also enjoyed long periods for reading, listening to music or simply doing very little on deck.

At one point in Ayutthaya, after walking around in the heat, we decided we wanted another Thai massage.

“Can we have another Thai massage?” I asked.

A few telephone calls later, it was arranged.

The Famous River Prawns of Ayutthaya

The chef outdid himself on this cruise, and every meal was wonderful. This was definitely not the usual catered food on a cruise. However, the highlight was the Ayutthaya river prawn, which is enormous and so tender when caught fresh.

We were fortunate enough to have these twice.

Our chef simply grilled them, leaving the flesh firm without becoming tough and allowing their natural sweetness to come through. The Thai seasoning he used paired perfectly.

One Last Temple

Before our first meal on our last day, we went ashore to a local temple to give thanks for our safe and happy journey. The crew had purchased baskets of food for each of us in advance to present as offerings.

We joined local worshippers, conspicuous as the foreigners in the group, presented our baskets and received a blessing from a monk, accompanied by a sprinkling of holy water from a ceremonial brush.

Then we returned to the boat for the chef’s version of a farewell brunch.

Caviar on a Century-Old Rice Barge

Calling it brunch hardly did it justice.

A large seafood platter occupied the centre of the table, piled with crab legs, prawns and mussels. Beside it sat a large tin of caviar with blinis and the usual accompaniments, along with salads and several other dishes that might reasonably have constituted lunch on their own.

Caviar had not been on my list of things I expected to eat aboard a converted Thai rice barge.

Halfway through the meal, our steward approached.

“Are you still hungry?”

“Not really,” I said. “But it will be a crime to say no to more of his delicious food.”

“Our chef would be delighted to prepare his specialties for you.”

Since this was our final meal aboard, refusing seemed unnecessarily sensible.

There were eggs Benedict and other Western breakfast dishes. I asked for Thai noodle soup and pad Thai.

Naturally, we ordered them.

Back to Bangkok

And so our final approach to Bangkok was made over an increasingly improbable brunch of seafood, caviar and blinis, followed by eggs Benedict, noodle soup and pad Thai.

It was far too much.

We ate it anyway.

Outside, Bangkok gradually returned. The banks became more densely built, and houses were followed by temples, hotels and high-rises.

Four days earlier, we had left the same city aboard an old wooden rice barge, travelling south through factories and freighters towards the Gulf of Siam. Then we had made a U-turn and travelled north through a completely different landscape of traditional river houses, vegetation, temples, royal palaces and the ruins of Ayutthaya.

That, ultimately, was what made the voyage interesting. We had seen the Chao Phraya not simply as a backdrop to Bangkok but as a working river, a transportation route, a link to Thailand’s history and, for four days, the view from our own front deck.

Driving from Bangkok to Ayutthaya would have been considerably faster. Three hours to be exact. But this was precisely the point. We were not seeking to check attractions off a sightseeing list, but to experience a part of Thailand in the most unusual way.

The Loy Dream antique rice barge had been on my bucket list and now I was happy to cross it off. For travelers seeking authenticity, this cruise falls into the same category as the Orient Express train journeys although it is not as seamlessly luxurious.

The price points are also different. Chartering this boat may not be cheap, but it is also not expensive for travelers seeking the unique.

My four days onboard were relaxing and happy. Although I did disembark the Loy Dream with one very specific problem: I had developed a taste for freshly caught Ayutthaya river prawns, and I was going home to Tokyo.

FACTS ABOUT VOYAGES WITH LOY PELA / ANANTARA

What is Loy Dream?
Loy Dream is an 18-metre restored Thai rice barge operated by Loy Pela Voyages by Anantara. The private vessel has two air-conditioned ensuite staterooms and accommodates up to four guests.

What is the itinerary?
Our four-day, three-night private voyage departed from Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort and travelled south along the Chao Phraya towards the Gulf of Thailand, historically known as the Gulf of Siam. Loy Dream then turned north, travelling through Bangkok towards Bang Pa-In Palace and Ayutthaya before returning to the city.

What is life aboard like?
Most of the day is spent on the large covered upper deck, which contains the dining area, seating and daybeds, with open views of the river. The two split-level staterooms below have air-conditioning and ensuite bathrooms.

What about food?
A private chef prepares meals aboard. Our menus included multi-course Thai lunches and dinners, lobster, Ayutthaya river prawns and a final seafood-and-caviar brunch. Meals were served on Benjarong tableware.

What can you do along the way?
Excursions vary with the itinerary and can include temples, Bang Pa-In Palace, Ayutthaya Historical Park and local experiences. Our voyage also included yoga, spa treatments, Muay Thai, a Thai dessert-making lesson and additional massages arranged along the way.

How flexible is it?
Because Loy Dream is privately chartered, there is considerably more flexibility than on a conventional cruise. Activities can be adjusted and additional experiences arranged where possible.

Who is it best for?
Couples, families or two couples looking for a private alternative to a conventional river cruise or modern yacht charter, particularly travellers interested in Thai history, food and life along the Chao Phraya.

Information and reservations:
Loy Pela Voyages by Anantara. Current itineraries, prices, inclusions and availability should be confirmed directly at the time of booking.

READ MORE ABOUT THE BEST CRUISES IN THE WORLD IN TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE

The post The Long Way to Ayutthaya appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

Tokyo has a way of pulling you forward. Days fill quickly. Trains arrive on time. Even moments meant for rest tend to be scheduled and efficient. One day, I felt the urge to step outside that rhythm. I wasn’t trying to escape the city. Instead, I wanted to experience it differently.

A PRIVATE TEA CEREMONY AT CHINZANSO TOKYO

That search ultimately led me to arrange a private tea ceremony at Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo, one of the city’s most historic and quietly refined properties. I did not choose it for novelty. Instead, I chose it deliberately. I wanted an afternoon shaped by stillness rather than movement, and I wanted to slow down with intention.

Although the Japanese tea ceremony is often described as a social ritual, the experience feels surprisingly inward. Each movement requires focus. Each pause matters. Silence does not need to be filled. Instead, it creates space. In a city defined by momentum, that restraint felt rare and quietly luxurious.

EXPERIENCING A JAPANESE TEA CEREMONY IN A HISTORIC SETTING

Tokyo offers several places where visitors can experience a traditional tea ceremony. At Chinzanso, the ceremony takes place inside one of several historic tea houses scattered across the estate. Meanwhile, the surrounding gardens have evolved quietly over centuries.

As a result, the setting feels rooted rather than curated. The ritual appears to belong exactly where it should be.

THE LEGACY OF SEN NO RIKYU AND THE ORIGINS OF TEA CEREMONY

I chose a tea house designated as a cultural heritage property. It was modeled after the tea house once used by Sen no Rikyu, the master credited with shaping the philosophy of the Japanese tea ceremony.

Rikyu’s influence remains visible in every detail. The proportions of the space and the decor remain restrained in a style described as wabi sabi. Because of this, the emphasis stays on presence rather than display. Everything associated with Rikyu is treated as continuity, not relic.

PREPARING TO ENTER A TRADITIONAL TEA HOUSE

Before entering the tea house, the ceremony begins with preparation. Just outside, at a stone basin, I washed my hands and paused. The action marked a clear boundary. What happened before stayed outside.

Then, I removed my shoes and lowered myself through the narrow entrance, moving on my knees as tradition requires. The low doorway leaves no room for haste. Instead, it dictates the pace. Movements slow. The room grows quieter. Attention narrows to what comes next.

THE MEANING OF ICHI-GO, ICHI-E

Inside, the tea mistress had prepared a single scroll and a simple flower arrangement. Both had been chosen for the day.

I asked what the scroll said.

“Ichi-go ichi-e,” she said. “The rough translation is, “One meeting. One moment”.”

She adjusted the scroll slightly, then looked at the tea bowls lined up beside her.

“These are for this season,” she said. “They wouldn’t be used in winter.”

The bowls were different in shape and texture. One was slightly rough at the rim. Another caught the light more softly. Nothing else was added.

THE OMOTESENKE STYLE OF JAPANESE TEA CEREMONY

At Chinzanso, the ceremony is performed in the Omotesenke style, one of the most traditional schools of Japanese tea. The practitioners here have trained for more than a decade, and their movements reflect that discipline.

As the tea mistress prepared the bowl, I asked how long she had studied.

“More than twelve years,” she said. “And I am still learning.”

I asked what mattered most in the ceremony. She thought for a moment, and then replied: “Doing what comes naturally, and doing what feels right.”

Each gesture existed only because it needed to. Because of this restraint, participating felt less like attending an event. Instead, it felt like entering a lineage.

CHINZANSO GARDENS THROUGH THE SEASONS

Chinzanso changes with the seasons, and each one brings a distinct rhythm to the estate.

In spring, cherry blossoms and azaleas spread across the gardens. By autumn, the hillsides shift into deep shades of red and gold. Even winter feels intentional, with bare branches and quieter paths shaping a different kind of beauty.

During summer, glass wind chimes hang along the garden walkways. Their soft sound cuts through the heat and suggests coolness where there is none. Meanwhile, water runs continuously through the grounds, tracing the same paths it has followed for centuries.

Because of this constant presence of water and greenery, the estate encourages unhurried movement. It offers a reminder that calm can exist even within a city built on motion.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What is a Japanese tea ceremony?

A Japanese tea ceremony is a traditional ritual centered on the preparation and sharing of matcha. It is rooted in Zen philosophy and emphasizes mindfulness, simplicity, and presence.

Can foreigners participate in a tea ceremony in Tokyo?

Yes. Several venues welcome international guests. However, historic settings like Chinzanso offer experiences that remain closely tied to tradition.

Why is Chinzanso special for a tea ceremony?

Chinzanso hosts ceremonies inside authentic tea houses set within a former aristocratic estate. This combination creates an unusually immersive experience.

Who was Sen no Rikyu?

Sen no Rikyu was a sixteenth-century tea master who shaped the philosophy and aesthetics of the Japanese tea ceremony. His influence continues today.

Some of the photos used in this article are the properties of Chinzanso Tokyo

A TRAVELIFE RECOMMENDATION

For readers drawn to places that encourage reflection and calm, La Esperanza Granada offers a similarly grounding experience in southern Spain.

Recommended based on guest profiles and Travelife reviews, this private hacienda in Andalusia is known for its privacy, human-scale luxury, and sense of quiet. Solo travelers are warmly welcomed. Many arrive looking not for an itinerary, but for space to slow down.

Surrounded by gardens and mountain views, La Esperanza Granada is often chosen by guests searching for their next meaningful destination. Discover more at La Esperanza Granada. https://www.la-esperanzahotel.com

GUIDE TO THE BEST HOTELS IN TOKYO

Read more about the best luxury hotels in Tokyo in Travelife Magazine

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Every serious traveler has, at least once, chased a legend — a restaurant whispered about in quiet reverence, a table that seems to exist outside ordinary geography.

We flew into Japan one summer afternoon just to have lunch at a restaurant that had captured the attention of food lovers everywhere. To eat at Yanagiya, we first landed in Nagoya, a vibrant city in central Japan. From there, we stayed overnight and caught a local train the next morning to a tiny station in Gifu Prefecture.

When the train finally slowed to a stop in the quiet town of Mizunami, a waiting van whisked us away. We drove through rice fields shimmering in the heat and winding country roads lined with cedar trees. After half an hour, the van turned up a narrow hill, and there it was — a quiet farmhouse framed by forest, bathed in summer light.

A Hidden Masterpiece in the Countryside

Yanagiya could pass for any rural home in Japan. Its low wooden roof and sliding doors reveal nothing of the reputation it holds. Yet inside this unassuming farmhouse lies one of the most revered dining experiences in the world.

For years, despite its secluded location and its formidable price, Yanagiya has reigned near the top of Tabelog, Japan’s most respected restaurant review site. Among those who follow the culinary world closely, that ranking alone is enough to make it a pilgrimage. Japan’s standards for dining are famously exacting — so when locals agree that something is extraordinary, you listen.

At first glance, Yanagiya’s simplicity is disarming. But the family who runs it understands quiet drama. The meal unfolds not with spectacle, but with devotion.

Around the Irori Fire

In the heart of the room burns the irori, an open-hearth sand pit once found in every farmhouse. Here, eight river fish are staked upright around the glowing charcoal, their salt-crusted skins turning slowly to bronze. The sight is almost ceremonial — part sculpture, part memory of old Japan.

The chef worked in near silence, adjusting each skewer by instinct rather than timing. “My grandfather started the restaurant,” he told us, never pausing. “But it was my father who began cooking with the irori. A customer from the local bank suggested it to him.” His movements were as calm as the firelight that danced on the walls.

The Taste of Summer: Ayu

The first course was ayu, Japan’s beloved river fish. Grilled over the embers, it was delicate and clean, its sweetness deepened by the salt. Ayu is a symbol of summer here — fleeting, refined, and always tied to the season’s flow.

We dipped it into a sharp sauce of herbs and vinegar, then ate it whole, head to tail. The flavor was so subtle it felt almost like an emotion — something sensed rather than tasted. Locals say foreigners often miss its nuance. We didn’t. Every piece was a small revelation, especially the final dish: ayu deep-fried in the thinnest tempura batter, crisp as parchment.

Wild Game, Reimagined

Still, the highlight of the meal came later — the grilled game. Yanagiya is famous for it. The restaurant sources its wild boar and venison from hunters in the surrounding forests, but only accepts animals that have been killed cleanly. The family insists on this. A single misplaced shot, they say, can taint the purity of the meat.

The difference is unmistakable. The venison arrived tender and fragrant, tasting of mountain air and wood smoke. The wild boar was deeper, almost sweet. There was no heaviness, no trace of gaminess — only the pure, clean flavor of the countryside. It was better than beef, and more honest. I could have eaten another plate, but here, extra orders are not part of the ritual.

The Clockwork of a Perfect Meal

Meals at Yanagiya follow a quiet rhythm. There is no menu and no negotiation. Each course flows naturally into the next, ending exactly at three o’clock in the afternoon. When the last bite was served, the family gathered outside the door, bowing gently as each guest left.

Dessert, as always, was a small sweet — delicate, unassuming, and enough. Outside, the air was still thick with the scent of charcoal. We boarded the van back to Mizunami Station in silence, too content for words.

At the station, ritual gave way to reality. We bought ice creams from a tiny kiosk for a single coin — cold, sweet, and perfectly ordinary. It was the ideal ending to an extraordinary meal.

Quick Info: Yanagiya

Restaurant: Yanagiya

Location: Mizunami, Gifu Prefecture, Japan

Cuisine: Traditional Japanese countryside cooking (Irori-grilled fish and wild game)

Price Range: ¥15,000–¥20,000 per person

Reservations: Required, often months in advance

Access: About 20 minutes by taxi or shuttle from Mizunami Station

Tabelog Page: https://s.tabelog.com/en/gifu/A2103/A210301/21000023/

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you book Yanagiya?

Reservations are essential and can be made only by phone or through a Japanese-speaking contact. Bookings open several months ahead and fill quickly.

What is the signature dish at Yanagiya?

The restaurant is best known for irori-grilled ayu (sweetfish) in summer and wild game such as boar and venison in winter.

Does Yanagiya serve dessert?

The meal traditionally ends with a small sweet rather than a Western-style dessert. Diners often stop by the station shop afterward for ice cream.

Is Yanagiya worth the journey?

Completely. The food, setting, and precision of the experience make it one of Japan’s most authentic and unforgettable meals.

Ready for an Andalusian Foodtrip?

Discover local restaurants serving dishes based on heirloom recipes amidst the timeless landscapes surrounding La Esperanza Granada — a place where every stay becomes a story.
Learn more about La Esperanza Granada

Read more about the best restaurants in the world in Travelife Magazine.

The post Lunch at Yanagiya: A Journey Worth Every Mile appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

Tokyo, December 5, 2025

Last night, I stepped once again into my corner of the sky.

Park Hyatt Tokyo hosted its reopening party — the first time for guests to enter since the hotel closed in May 2024. The hotel officially reopens on December 9, but last night a small circle of longtime guests and friends were invited for an early preview of the newly refreshed public spaces.

I’ve stayed here countless times over the years. Moreover, the Park Hyatt Tokyo has been the setting for so many milestones in my life, including birthdays, weddings and anniversaries. I even celebrated the historic end of the 20th century here, at the hotel’s Y2K party on December 31, 1999.

So, last night, walking through those glass doors again felt like returning to a familiar dream — one that had quietly been polished while I was away.

Familiar Elegance, Perfectly Preserved

The most striking thing about the “new” Park Hyatt Tokyo is how unchanged it felt. Everything looked refreshed — brighter, crisper, more refined — and yet I couldn’t find a single thing that looked truly different.

The driveway lobby appeared exactly as I remembered it from day one, more than twenty-five years ago. The same benches around a sculpture in the middle, with the pastry boutique on one side. Even the whimsical bronze sculptures lining the elevator walls were still there, as though waiting for our return.

Upstairs, the Peak Lounge awaited, only slightly changed. The bamboo garden at the center was smaller, leaving space for further growth.

Someone near me smiled and whispered, “Of course, they’ll grow taller.”

That moment captured the spirit of the evening. The same hotel, renewed. Familiar, yet newly alive. Under the steady leadership of General Manager Fredrik Harfors and Director of Rooms Anna Shirshova, Park Hyatt Tokyo has not reinvented itself — it has deepened its identity.

Meanwhile, the long corridor leading toward the main check-in area held its quiet rhythm. The floor-to-ceiling bookshelves from the old version of the Park Hyatt Tokyo were intact, their curated coffee-table collections still perfectly arranged.

Girandole by Alain Ducasse

At Girandole, the hotel’s all-day dining restaurant, the giant black-and-white photo murals remained untouched — like anchors of memory in a hotel built on subtle continuity. I had dinner here on the historic New Year’s Eve 1999; and the narrow hall to the right, with booth tables for two that always remind me of a luxury train dining car, is my favorite place to dine.

Girandole has now officially joined the world of Alain Ducasse. It has always carried a faintly French accent — from its menu to its mood — but now it’s a full-fledged French bistro.

Alain Ducasse himself was reportedly at the party last night, mingling quietly among Tokyo’s society and longtime guests. Unfortunately, I never got to meet him. Still, it felt fitting that one of France’s greatest chefs is now guiding the restaurant that, for many of us, has marked so many milestones and memories.

Girandole under Ducasse’s stewardship feels like closing a circle — a classic renewed with the confidence of experience.

Designed for Timelessness

The full renovation was led by Jouin Manku, the Paris-based design studio behind Hôtel Plaza Athénée and Mandarin Oriental Munich. Their vision was to honor the late John Morford’s original interiors — his poetic restraint and cinematic serenity — while subtly modernizing textures, lighting, and flow for a new generation.

They succeeded. The palette feels warmer. The materials, softer. Every transition feels deliberate, every light quietly considered. Nothing has been broken or forced. Instead, Park Hyatt Tokyo breathes more deeply — the same hotel, but sharper in definition and lighter in mood.

A Quiet Return to the Clouds

Quite perfectly, the party wound down at the New York Grill & Bar, where a live band was playing Motown hits. Everyone sat back to enjoy old favorites over drinks in this new space that still felt exactly like the old space — and thankfully so.

In a case of déjà vu — seeing the new but remembering only the old — I bumped into the hotel’s original Assistant General Manager, Ernesto de Lima. At the very outset, during the construction of the hotel, he had once taken me up to the yet-unfinished New York Grill in a construction elevator. We wore hard hats and rubber boots, walking through what was then just an empty space with a view.

He gestured around enthusiastically and said, “This is going to be the most talked-about restaurant in the world one day.” And indeed, it was, for a very long time.

Last night, I saw him there again, this time as a guest, clearly pleased with how the renovations had turned out. “Everything is wonderful,” he said. “And you must see the rooms. The team has done an amazing job keeping the spirit of the old Park Hyatt Tokyo while bringing in the new.”

More on the rooms sometime soon — when I check in for my stay. Sooner rather than later, I hope.

Official Reopening: December 9, 2025

Reservations: www.hyatt.com/parkhyatttokyo

Location: Shinjuku Park Tower, 3-7-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Tokyo 160-0023

Phone: +81 3 5322 1234

Plan Your Next Escape. This time to Andalusia, Spain.

After Tokyo’s skyline calm, head to Spain and unwind at La Esperanza Granada — Andalusia’s most romantic private villa and luxury retreat, near the Alhambra Palace. Elegant suites, lush gardens, and unforgettable sunsets await.

Book direct: www.la-esperanzahotel.com

The post The Park Hyatt Tokyo Reopens — Same Soul, New Light appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

Long before I ever set foot in the Cederberg Mountains, Bushman’s Kloof had already taken hold of my imagination. I remember seeing a photograph years ago — a dinner table floating in the middle of a still lake, bathed in candlelight, reflections dancing on the water like stars. Since that moment, I promised myself that one day I would go there.

When I finally did, exactly four years to the day I threw that wish out into the Universe, it felt like I had stepped quietly into a dream I had once glimpsed. Perched tall amidst the vast expanse of the scenery of the Cederberg,

Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat is not a place that dazzles all at once. It reveals itself slowly, layer by layer, in gestures of beauty and stillness. Just under five hours by car from Cape Town, we took the coastal road heading west for Namibia and stayed for several nights in a lovely apartment by the sea. Those happy days of walking by the water, picking shellfish for dinner, were the perfect prelude. They slowed our rhythm, prepared our senses, and made the eventual arrival at Bushmans Kloof feel all the more like stepping into another world.

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BUSHMAN’S KLOOF: A BEAUTIFUL WORLD

When you finally arrive at Bushman’s Kloof, the air feels different. Somehow, it’s lighter and the light deepens into a thousand shades of amber. The aesthetic perfection of the gardens and the grounds does wonders for the senses. Moreover, every moment is beautifully curated — as if invisible hands had arranged the details of each day. Whether it was lunch at the main dining room, where the menu brimmed with dishes personally selected by the owners, or an evening at Cederberg House, the villa where we stayed, everything carried the mark of thoughtful design and quiet passion.

Cederberg House itself was more like the country home of a friend with exquisite taste. It was an exquisite Cape Dutch house with contemporary chintz interiors, terraces that opened up to a private swimming pol, and shelves lined with the kind of assortment of books I love.

“The interiors, the art, even many of the books here were chosen by the owners themselves,” said Martin, as he led us through the living room to the private gardens. Indeed, I could sense how every room was thoughtfully arranged just like in one’s home.

The inspiration for La Esperanza Granada in Spain

Bushman’s Kloof is a luxury safari lodge with so much to do. However the first thing on my mind was rest. I settled into my suite, admired the view, and ensconced myself in a lounge chair by my private pool to paint a watercolor scene of our perfect little world. Nothing else mattered in the golden light of that afternoon, with dramatic hills all around that seemed to hum.

It was exactly here at Bushman’s Kloof, too, that I began to think about owning a property amidst incredible nature. The seed and inspiration for what would one day become La Esperanza Granada, my own hacienda in the Andalusian hills, was planted here. The way Bushmans Kloof balanced wild nature with cultivated beauty, and how it made guests feel both part of the landscape and gently removed from the world, left an imprint on me that has never faded. And now it has resulted in a hacienda of my own.

“OUT OF AFRICA,” THE SAFARI LODGE

The lodge offers two restaurants, a bar, and endless ways to dine in quiet extravagance. Truly, every moment was curated so well that I felt I was starring in my own movie.

One night, we drove thirty minutes through complete darkness to a 100-year-old shepherd’s cottage, where dinner was cooked and served entirely by candlelight. “Surprise,” Rory, then the general manager, said, about our little excursion into darkness. But, as with the rythmn of the days, after darkness comes light. Or, in this case, candles placed like a mural all over the ancient cottage. The room flickered and glowed, and the chef’s bread pudding cooked completely over open fire tasted of nostalgia and warmth.

If we were seeking an evening worth 100 candles (we counted) and a thousand Instagram photos, well, this was it.

Another evening, we dined in the walled garden, where tables are set among lantern-lit trees. I was told that on New Year’s Eve, the garden transforms into a glowing corridor of long tables and swaying lights — an atmosphere that feels both celebratory and serene. That night, it was just us and lanterns hanging from the trees.

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FINDING THE PERFECT BALANCE

Bushmans Kloof occupies a delicate space between wilderness and wellness. It’s a place where days unfold gently. Guests return not for grand safaris, but to walk, breathe, and rediscover stillness. One of my favorite activities involved lying on a rock in an outdoor terrace while Stephanie, a yoga instructor and wellness healer, used a Tibetan brass bowl to tune my frequencies.

“We have guests who come back every year, and all they love to do is walk and sit in the gardens,” said Rory, whose calm presence seemed part of the landscape itself. One night, he took us stargazing in a 4×4 to find the Southern Cross. Instead we found a scorpion, made visible via special equipment. It was oddly beautiful — the kind of detail that makes a trip unforgettable.

The wildlife here may not include the Big Five, but it offers a subtler and more personal discovery of animals. The delicate Cape fox, with its silvery coat, is rarely spotted elsewhere. Meanwhile, the Cape mountain zebra, smaller and more compact than others, its stripes drawn as sharply as brushstrokes, can only be seen in these parts.

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TRACES OF TIME IN STONE

The soul of Bushmans Kloof lies in its connection to the ancient past. Scattered across the reserve are rock paintings by the San people, some dating back more than 10,000 years.

One morning, our guide Martin led us into a narrow ravine to see one of the most remarkable sites on the property. We climbed over a hedge and there it was: a wall of paintings that stretched across three vast stone panels.

“This one was created over many centuries,” he told us as we stood before the ochre and red figures that seemed to shimmer in the filtered light. “You can tell the difference between generations by the pigments and by the overlapping of drawings. Each style belongs to a different tribe or a different time.”

And as he said this, I began to see it. The evolution of line, colour, and form, each layer whispering across time. Some of the oldest figures were faint, drawn in iron-rich earth. But others more recent, their pigments deeper, more deliberate. It was humbling to think of all the hands that had touched this same rock through the millennia — a silent story told by countless lives long gone.

Time, in that moment, felt almost physical. The wall itself breathed — a living archive of human memory, sunlight, and dust.

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MEMORIES THAT LAST

Just when I thought I’d seen all that Bushmans Kloof had to give, there was one last surprise. Instead of returning to the Makana Restaurant at the lodge for our usual breakfast after an early game drive, Martin led us to a clearing where a champagne breakfast was waiting beside a giant boulder. White linens fluttered in the breeze, and the scent of omelettes cooking over an open flame mingled with wild rosemary, as the head chef stood waiting to welcome us, with a glint in his eye.

“You’re making it very hard for us to leave,” I laughed, though a part of me already knew I didn’t want to.

TEMPORARY TICKET TO BLISS

Even now, whenever life feels too loud, I close my eyes and return to that terrace at Cederberg House. Each night, after dinner, we sat outside with the stars overhead, the silence vast and kind. When I remember my stay here, even for a moment, everything feels perfectly still again.

Bushman’s Kloof is a destination in itself, though this is not always evident at the outset. Some guests check in all set for a typical South Africa luxury safari. But then they realize they’re happy to just do an occasional game drive then laze around and be pampered with unforgettable picnics and candlelight dinners. The Travelife Magazine team stayed here as guests of Bushman’s Kloof prior to the pandemic, and this article has been rewritten as a blog entry. Some of the photos here are credited to the Red Carnation Hotels group.

Read more about articles on luxury safari lodges in Africa in Travelife Magazine

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We first visited Puglia years ago, when it was still the forgotten part of Italy and not the chic destination it has now become. It drew us in because we were chasing sunlight — the kind that gilds olive groves and dances across the Adriatic.

We had two weeks and our plans were vague by design: long, unhurried days by the sea, a slow rhythm of discovery. The Old Town of Gallipoli wasn’t even on the map at first. Yet one spontaneous morning, we followed the coastal road west and found ourselves stepping into its ancient heart — a maze of stone lanes and sea breezes that felt instantly timeless.

This is how it began. For two weeks, we stayed across the peninsula, where the horizon glowed blue and the days unfolded like watercolor. Mornings began with fresh orange juice and warm bread from the village bakery. After breakfast, we’d drive without a plan — guided by wind, whim, and the occasional church bell in the distance. It was in this spirit of wandering that Gallipoli revealed itself, not as a destination but as a quiet revelation: a place that seemed to breathe with history and salt air.

SANTA CESAREA TERME : FORGOTTEN BY TIME

Our base was Santa Cesarea Terme, a faded beauty along the southern coast of Puglia and a long way from Gallipoli. Here, grand but shuttered 19th-century villas gazed toward the sea and sad-looking souvenir shops lined the promenade.

At first glance, the town seemed to have dozed off — a single winding road, boarded up buildings, and echoes of a more glamorous past when visitors came here for the healing thermal springs. Yet even in its stillness, Santa Cesarea Terme possessed an undeniable grace: Moorish-inspired domes glowed in the afternoon sun, balconies framed with bougainvillea, and the slow hum of waves against the cliffs below.

We quickly grew fond of its quiet rhythm. Our apartment overlooked the sea, and each evening we walked along the wide promenade that curved above the water. There was a small pizzeria with only four tables and five kinds of pizza — simple, perfect, and always served with a smile. A pizza cost five euros, a bottle of local wine about the same. Sitting outdoors in the golden light, listening to the hush of the sea, we couldn’t have asked for more.

La Esperanza Granada — a luxury villa and private hacienda in Spain surrounded by olive groves

After a few days in Puglia, I found myself wishing I could slow time itself — to linger a little longer under southern skies where beauty feels effortless and days unfold gently by the sea. It reminded me of another place where the Mediterranean spirit lives on, just across the water in Spain.

For travelers who love authentic design, slow living, and sun-drenched landscapes, consider continuing your journey west to La Esperanza Granada — an award-winning hacienda in the hills of Andalusia, Spain. Surrounded by olive groves and mountains, this luxury private villa offers everything from farm-to-table meals to unforgettable destination weddings.

 Experience the art of Mediterranean living at its most beautiful.

 Discover La Esperanza Granada here.

WHERE TO GO FOR A WEEKEND IN PUGLIA

One morning, after another slow breakfast overlooking the turquoise sea, we decided to drive west until we found something interesting. The roads wound through olive groves and sleepy villages, each with a bar, a church, and a single piazza where life unfolded unhurriedly. Somewhere between the fields and the horizon, Gallipoli appeared, shimmering across the Ionian, its old town rising from the water like a mirage of limestone and sun.

WALKING ACROSS TIME

Crossing the bridge into Gallipoli’s Old Town felt like stepping into another century. The air grew saltier, the light more golden. Narrow lanes curled past faded palazzi, laundry fluttered from iron balconies, and cats slept in doorways carved from coral-colored stone. Every turn revealed a glimpse of the sea, a reminder that this island town has always lived by and for it.

There was no plan, only discovery. We followed the scent of coffee into quiet courtyards, paused at small churches with open doors. Then, we listened to the bells echo across the rooftops. Gallipoli was not merely beautiful; it was alive with layers of memory, still breathing through its cobblestones and sunlit walls.

EXPLORING THE OLD TOWN OF GALLIPOLI

The heart of Gallipoli’s Old Town unfolds in a maze of narrow streets that seem to twist and turn toward the light. It is a place where time feels suspended, where the rhythm of the sea dictates the pace of life. Fishermen mend their nets on the stone piers, women chat in shaded doorways, and the scent of salt and grilled seafood lingers in the air.

At midday, when the sun turns every wall into gold, the town glows. You can wander aimlessly and still feel as though you are part of something timeless. Small artisan shops line the cobbled lanes, selling hand-painted ceramics, coral jewelry, and bottles of olive oil pressed from groves that have stood for centuries. Every corner invites you to pause — for an espresso, for a photograph, or simply to breathe in the sea breeze.

THE SECRETS OF THE OLD TOWN

Beyond the streets, Gallipoli’s seafront offers another kind of beauty. The ramparts that once protected the town now make the perfect promenade for sunset walks. Locals gather to watch the horizon burn with color before the night begins. The air fills with the sound of laughter, church bells, and the clinking of glasses from rooftop terraces.

Gallipoli is not a grand city. It is something rarer — an intimate world of light and shadow, of salt and stone, of stories whispered by the sea.

COFFEE WITH A VIEW OF THE IONIAN SEA

As the afternoon softened into gold, we followed the sea walls until we reached a tiny café perched above the water. The sound of waves echoed against the stones below, and the breeze carried the scent of salt and espresso.

“Let’s stay here a while,” I said, as we found two bar stools overlooking the Ionian. Before us, the whitewashed houses of Gallipoli shimmered in the fading light. The sun sank slowly behind their rooftops, turning the sky into a painting of amber and rose. Beneath our feet, the sea crashed and foamed, catching the last light of day. That evening, the coffee tasted richer than ever — the kind you remember not for its flavor but for the moment itself.

READ ABOUT THE MOST ROMANTIC WEDDING VENUE IN SPAIN

THE BEST HOTEL IN GALLIPOLI

The light faded, and we lingered until the café owner began stacking chairs. That golden evening sealed my affection for Gallipoli. So when it came time to choose where to stay, I knew I wanted to remain close to the old town’s rhythm. The sea, the sunsets, and that sense of timeless ease were intoxicating.

We booked rooms at the Hotel Palazzo del Corso. This stately residence, just off the road leading to the Old Town, is as the finest hotel in Gallipoli. Officially, it carried five stars. However it felt more like a luxury boutique property. It was intimate, elegant, and gracefully designed. This jewel of a hotel became our home during those sunlit days on the Ionian coast.

PAINTED CEILINGS OF BEAUTY

Each morning, I awoke beneath a ceiling painted with frescoes. I observed with wonder the soft clouds, cherubs, and endless blue. To open my eyes to such beauty felt like a daily benediction, and I never failed to whisper a quiet thank you for the gift of this life.

Breakfast was served on the rooftop terrace, a civilized affair of fresh fruit, pastries, and espresso strong enough to rival the sea breeze. Often, I lingered there with my laptop for an hour or two. It was wonderful to work here while gazing at the marina below, where fishing boats shimmered like small jewels in the sun.

WHERE TO HAVE LUNCH IN GALLIPOLI

By midday, the streets shimmered in the sun, and we wandered toward the Old Town in search of a small, inviting trattoria. The plan was simple: a long, lazy, and liquid lunch. After all, it feels almost criminal to rush a meal in Italy — especially by the sea. Diets are forgotten here, replaced by the joy of slow living and good wine.

We found a restaurant tucked beneath flowering vines. Here, time seemed to pause between courses. A plate of handmade pasta, a carafe of local white wine, and the hum of conversation from nearby tables. It was enough to make the whole afternoon disappear.

ROOFTOP TERRACE WITH A VIEW IN GALLIPOLI

Back at the Hotel Palazzo del Corso, the rhythm of the day unfolded like a ritual. First, a dip in the rooftop seawater jacuzzi, followed by sunset cocktails overlooking the Ionian Sea. And then finally, dinner beneath a sky filled with stars. Each day felt perfect in its simplicity — radiant, restorative, unforgettable.

TOP THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN GALLIPOLI – A QUICK GUIDE

What makes Gallipoli’s Old Town so special?

Gallipoli’s Old Town sits on a small island connected to the mainland by a bridge. Its maze of narrow streets, whitewashed houses, and dazzling sea views give it an unmistakable charm. It’s the perfect place to wander slowly, discovering hidden courtyards and centuries-old churches.

Is Gallipoli Castle worth visiting?

Yes. The Castello di Gallipoli guards the entrance to the Old Town and offers panoramic views of the harbor. Inside, rotating exhibitions and ancient walls tell stories of defense, trade, and the city’s maritime legacy.

What can I see at the Cathedral of Saint Agatha?

This baroque masterpiece stands in the heart of the Old Town. It has frescoed ceilings, ornate altars, and golden light filtering through tall windows. Moreover, it’s considered one of southern Italy’s most beautiful churches and a must for architecture lovers.

Where is the best beach in Gallipoli?

Purità Beach is the local favorite — just steps from the Old Town. Its calm turquoise waters and golden sand make it ideal for a swim or a lazy afternoon under the sun.

What’s the best way to experience Gallipoli at sunset?

Stroll along the seafront promenade as the sky turns gold and pink. Locals and travelers mingle at cafés and bars facing the sea, and the entire city glows with evening light — a fitting finale to any day in Puglia.

Your Questions About Gallipoli, Answered

Is Gallipoli worth visiting?

Absolutely. Gallipoli Old Town combines history, beauty, and authenticity in one unforgettable coastal destination.

What is Gallipoli known for?

For its baroque churches, sun-drenched architecture, whitewashed lanes, and vibrant seafood culture. It’s also one of the best spots in Puglia for sunsets.

Where to eat in Gallipoli Old Town?

Seek out family-run trattorias with sea views — try grilled seafood, fresh pasta, and local wine for a true taste of southern Italy.

Where to stay in Gallipoli?

Luxury travelers love Hotel Palazzo del Corso, an elegant boutique hotel just across the Old Town of Gallipoli that captures the essence of Gallipoli with its frescoed ceilings, rooftop jacuzzi, and marina views.

Some photos courtesy of the Hotel Palazzo del Corso

Read more about traveling around Italy in Travelife Magazine.

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I’ve taken The Blue Train across South Africa twice, once in each direction, and each trip felt different. My first journey began in Pretoria. I still remember walking into the city’s historic railway station as the morning light touched its old-world arches. Soon after, the train carried me toward Cape Town and through some of the most beautiful landscapes in the country.

What I loved most were the small luxuries of each day: the beautifully plated brunches, the pleasure of dressing for dinner as the sky turned gold, and the quiet time spent in the viewing carriage at the back of the train. From that calm space, South Africa opened up in wide plains, distant mountains, and a sense of peace that seemed to travel with us all the way to the coast.

TAKING THE BLUE TRAIN FROM PRETORIA TO CAPETOWN

On the morning of our departure, we left our Johannesburg hotel before sunrise and drove toward Pretoria, where The Blue Train would begin its journey to Cape Town. Pretoria Station, with its nostalgic architecture and sense of quiet ceremony, felt like the perfect place to begin an iconic rail adventure.

Though Johannesburg and Cape Town are separated by nearly 1,600 kilometers—a distance easily crossed in under two hours by air—the train offers something entirely different. Instead of rushing between cities, you surrender to a slower rhythm, watching the landscape shift hour by hour. Thus, we let the journey itself become the destination.

ALL ABOUT THE BLUE TRAIN JOURNEY

The journey on The Blue Train takes a little over 30 hours. It follows a remarkable route from Pretoria to Cape Town, crossing the wide, untouched landscapes of the Northern Cape. This is slow travel at its best—unhurried, rich in detail, and made to be savored.

In a world where everything moves quickly, the train invites you to slow down. Days unfold gently. You chat with other passengers in the lounge, meet people you wouldn’t have met otherwise, and spend long stretches simply watching South Africa pass by your window. The rhythm feels almost nostalgic, like stepping into an older and more graceful way of traveling.

As the hours go by, the country reveals itself in open plains, small koppies, and scenes you don’t forget. It became one of the most enjoyable ways I’ve seen South Africa, and a journey I still think about often.

I’ve taken several luxury trains over the years, so I know the charm—and the limits—of vintage rail travel. These carriages will never feel as large as a hotel suite. But the best ones still create a sense of comfort and ease.

The Blue Train is one of those rare examples. The compartments feel warm and refined, with classic details and gentle modern touches. Soft lighting, polished wood, and well-chosen accents make the space instantly welcoming. And everything is placed with care. It remains one of the most comfortable luxury trains I’ve ever experienced.

RIDING THE BLUE TRAIN

The cabins are surprisingly generous in size. The beds feel almost cloudlike after a day spent watching the scenery roll by. The ensuite bathrooms are also large for a train—impressively so—and the layout feels indulgent. For anyone used to the tight quarters of traditional rail travel, the space can seem almost decadent.

Another pleasure of The Blue Train is the company you meet along the way. Many guests are seasoned travelers who have crossed continents and collected stories. They choose this train because they still value the romance of the journey. Conversations flow easily over tea, in the lounge, or while admiring the changing landscape. And the mix of personalities becomes part of the adventure.

We met so many wonderful people on this journey. On our very first evening, we were seated next to a British couple entirely by chance. Within minutes, conversation flowed as if we’d known each other for years. We enjoyed their company so much that, without even discussing it, we began arranging to share every meal together. It became one of those effortless travel friendships that feel like part of the magic of the trip.

WHERE TO GO NEXT: The beautiful Hacienda La Esperanza Granada in Spain

Extend your love of meaningful travel with a stay at our boutique luxury hacienda in Andalusia. With seven suites, panoramic gardens, and authentic Andalusian design, La Esperanza Granada is one of Spain’s most breathtaking private villa experiences.

BRUNCH ONBOARD THE BLUE TRAIN

Brunch on that first day set the tone for the journey. As the train glided out of Pretoria and curved past Johannesburg, the landscape slowly opening into the spacious light of the Northern Cape, we settled into our seats for a leisurely meal.

The staff began by pouring a chilled glass of pink champagne, a small but sparkling reminder that life aboard The Blue Train moves to its own luxurious rhythm. It felt like the perfect way to ease into the day—and into another chapter of living a #Travelife.

Because it was brunch, guests were invited to enjoy pastries and fresh fruit before the main courses began. Within the compact space of the dining carriage, the staff had created a beautifully arranged buffet along one side of the train—a thoughtful spread of flaky croissants, seasonal fruit, and small indulgences that felt wonderfully civilized.

BRUNCH BEGINS WITH CHAMPAGNE

After a glass of pink champagne, passengers drifted over to help themselves, taking what they liked as the scenery slipped quietly past the windows.

For the appetizer, several dishes were on offer, but almost everyone at our table gravitated toward the smoked salmon. It was light, beautifully prepared, and the perfect beginning to a long, leisurely brunch—almost a promise that the rest of the meal would be just as good.

When the main course arrived, most passengers chose the heartier options: a tender rack of lamb or even grilled springbok, which added a touch of South African flair to the menu. I went in a different direction.

After days of wonderfully heavy meals in Johannesburg, I asked the chef for a generous salad with extra smoked salmon on the side. It was exactly what I needed—fresh, simple, and satisfying without being overwhelming.

Dessert was just as lovely. It always amazes me how a full multi-course meal, plated so beautifully, can come out of a kitchen no larger than a restaurant’s storage cabinet—especially while the train is in motion. Yet everything arrived on fine porcelain, with polished silverware laid out as if we were dining in a grand hotel rather than rolling through the Northern Cape.

It spoke volumes about the chef’s skill and precision. Watching the plates appear, one by one, it was easy to forget how limited the space was behind the scenes.

MEALS ONBOARD A LUXURY TRAIN

We enjoyed our conversations with the British couple so much that meals naturally stretched into long, unhurried affairs. While other tables finished and drifted back to their cabins, we stayed on, savoring each course and the easy rhythm of good company. Every meal lasted for hours, and none of us minded in the least. It felt like part of the pleasure of being on The Blue Train—nowhere to rush to, nothing to interrupt the moment.

We often spent almost three hours in the restaurant car, three times a day. There was simply a lot to enjoy—good food, thoughtful service, and excellent South African wines. All of it made even better by the scenery slowly changing outside the windows as we crossed the country.

By the time we reached Cape Town, I understood why The Blue Train is so loved. It moves slowly, but that pace is part of its charm. You’re not just getting from one city to another—you’re watching South Africa unfold in real time.

The cabins are comfortable, the service is warm, and the meals turn into long conversations with people you’ve only just met. And somewhere along the way, the train becomes more than a journey. It becomes a memory you know you’ll keep.

If you want to see South Africa without rushing, The Blue Train is one of the most enjoyable ways to do it. You simply sit back, look out the window, and let the country reveal itself.

Read more articles about traveling by luxury train in Travelife Magazine

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The enchanting homes of Geoffrey Bawa and his brother Bevis Bawa in Sri Lanka belong on the bucket list of every lover of architecture, design, and tropical modernism. Over the course of several journeys through Sri Lanka, I became increasingly captivated by Geoffrey Bawa’s world — a visionary whose influence shaped the very identity of South Asian architecture.

For an entire generation, he has stood as the region’s most revered creative force, and even today, no younger talent has emerged to challenge the extraordinary legacy or quiet genius he left behind.

As a lifelong lover of the arts and all things beautiful, I make it a point to revisit Geoffrey Bawa’s masterpieces every time I travel to Sri Lanka. My personal “Ground Zero” is always his former office and design studio — now the iconic Paradise Road The Gallery Café — a place that still hums with the quiet artistry of Bawa’s vision.

Today, it has become one of Colombo’s most fashionable cafés and design boutiques, drawing expatriates, stylish locals, and curious travelers. The food is consistently delightful, but it’s the contemporary art, homeware, and Sri Lankan crafts on display — all exquisitely curated — that make it one of the most inspiring places to shop and linger in the city.

HOTELS DESIGNED BY GEOFFREY BAWA

Geoffrey Bawa’s hotels and private residences remain some of the most timeless works of tropical modernism in the world. Even decades after they were built, his properties continue to set the benchmark for Sri Lankan architecture — effortless, intimate, and seamlessly connected to nature.

The Heritance Kandalama in Dambulla, located just a few kilometers from the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sigiriya, is widely considered his masterpiece. I’ve stayed here so many times that I’ve long lost count. Yes, the hotel has aged. However, its design still feels astonishingly fresh — a linear sculpture carved into the cliffside, wrapped in vines, and overlooking sweeping reservoirs and jungle plains. It remains, without question, one of my favorite places in Sri Lanka simply for its views and its ingenious sense of place.

But Bawa’s artistry stretches across the island. In Galle, the iconic Jetwing Lighthouse sits dramatically above a wild, wave-lashed coastline — a bold interplay of stone, sea, and sky. Further south along the coast, the Heritance Ahungalla showcases Bawa’s serene beachfront vision. Think clean lines, open courtyards, and breezy spaces that catch the salt air and golden light of the Indian Ocean.

ABOUT LUNUGANGA

The hotels shaped by Geoffrey Bawa remain some of the most beautiful design retreats of their era, and many continue to operate today as impeccably maintained luxury escapes. Heritance Kandalama may be the most celebrated of the “Geoffrey Bawa hotels,” but it is Lunuganga, in my opinion, that offers the most intimate window into the architect’s mind.

Lunuganga was Bawa’s cherished private estate—a living sketchbook where he experimented, revised, and reimagined right up until his passing in 1998. What began as a simple plantation property evolved over decades into a sprawling meditation on landscape, form, and light, and today it stands as one of Sri Lanka’s most important sources of architectural inspiration.

Reaching Lunuganga requires a journey through quiet countryside between Colombo and Galle. In earlier years, visiting was something of an adventure in itself. The estate functioned loosely as a hotel but with unpredictable hours. Sometimes the staff would be present, and at other times the grounds seemed to slip into a dreamy stillness. Despite this lack of structure, Lunuganga was unmissable even then. After all, this was Geoffrey Bawa’s masterpiece for himself—his personal sanctuary.

On several trips to Sri Lanka, I found myself driving from Galle to Lunungaga. I went through narrow rural roads, past rice paddies and drifting water buffalo, only to arrive at Lunuganga and discover the gates closed with a padlock. The website might have listed it as open, but the estate often followed its own rhythm, welcoming visitors when it pleased. Yet even these unpredictable encounters became part of its allure. This was an estate that felt alive, moody, and wonderfully human, just like the man who created it.

GEOFFREY BAWA’S HOME IN SRI LANKA

Fortunately, those difficult days are over. Lunuganga is now managed by Teardrop Hotels, a well-known luxury group in Sri Lanka. The estate finally has the consistent care and attention it always needed. Guests can now stay in Geoffrey Bawa’s country home and enjoy its art, antiques, and peaceful views without worrying about erratic schedules or sudden closures.

The property feels refreshed but still true to Bawa’s spirit. It is cleaner, better maintained, and easier to visit. For me, this change is wonderful. Lunuganga has always been one of the most beautiful places in Sri Lanka, and it deserved proper management. I am very happy that it now has a team that understands its value. I look forward to returning soon and seeing how the estate has improved under Teardrop Hotels.

Some say the gardens at Lunuganga began with a touch of sibling rivalry. Geoffrey Bawa’s brother, Bevis, had already been shaping the landscape of his own estate since 1929, giving him a significant head start. By the 1940s, Geoffrey decided to create something of his own. Therefore, he purchased a larger property along the Bentota River to design a garden that reflected his vision.

The two estates sit not far from each other, and visiting both offers a fascinating look at how differently the brothers expressed their talents. Their contrasting styles create one of the most rewarding day trips from either Colombo or Galle. I highly recommend this, especially for travelers interested in architecture, garden design, and Sri Lanka’s cultural heritage.

HISTORY OF LUNUGANGA AND THE BRIEF

Sri Lankans who follow the country’s cultural and artistic circles are well aware of the long-running creative rivalry between Geoffrey Bawa and his brother Bevis. Their friendly competition lives on today through the homes they left behind. Lunuganga, Geoffrey’s beloved estate, is now famous as the ultimate expression of his vision. But Bevis Bawa’s home, The Brief, is just as captivating in its own way.

Bevis, a gifted landscape architect, shaped The Brief into a lush, intimate world of paths, sculptures, and tropical greenery. Its atmosphere and aesthetics contrast sharply with Lunuganga’s grander, more architectural approach. Yet both estates remain essential pilgrimages for design lovers. These are very different interpretations of beauty, created by two remarkable brothers.

THE BRIEF IN SRI LANKA

Bevis Bawa named his estate The Brief in honor of their father’s triumphant legal victory that financed the land purchase. It is a vivid reflection of Bevis’s own temperament. The property feels untamed and instinctive. You’ll find lush pathways threading through thick jungle greenery. Then, unexpected bursts of tropical color. Finally, quiet corners where the garden seems to breathe on its own.

Bevis was not only a landscape architect but also an irrepressible creative soul. He collected art with gusto, filling his home with an eclectic mix of paintings, sculptures, and curiosities. His most distinctive pieces—homoerotic sculptures crafted by artist friends and admirers—still stand throughout the estate and gardens today. They give The Brief an unmistakable personality: bold, unapologetic, and wonderfully alive.

Whenever I visit The Brief, I find myself drawn to a quiet corner of the garden. I imagined the extraordinary house parties that once unfolded here—gatherings full of artists, writers, travelers, and wandering free spirits from around the world. The estate feels steeped in stories, as if fragments of laughter and conversation still echo through the foliage.

And, truly, the more you see of both estates, the clearer it becomes that Lunuganga and The Brief never needed to compete. Each expresses a different creative heartbeat. On one hand, Geoffrey Bawa’s disciplined architectural poetry. On the other hand, Bevis Bawa’s wild, instinctive artistry.

If your travels allow, visit both. Together, they form one of Sri Lanka’s most inspiring journeys into design, culture, and imagination.

Exploring Lunuganga and The Brief is one of the most rewarding design experiences in Sri Lanka. Each estate offers a different vision and lesson in creativity. For travelers planning a cultural or architectural itinerary through Sri Lanka, visiting both homes provides a deeper appreciation of the country’s artistic heritage. And, of course, of the remarkable brothers who shaped it.

Read more stories about the best places for design lovers in Sri Lanka and also about one of the most unique places to stay in Spain in Travelife Magazine.

Some photos of Lununganga are from the Teardrop Hotels collection

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