It was early on a hot summer afternoon when we got off the taxi by the gates of Gosho, the old Imperial Palace in Kyoto, to attend a real tea ceremony at The Tea Crane. I do not include the word “real” here lightly.

THE ART OF TEA

Tea ceremonies are conducted almost everywhere in Japan, and the art of tea is a favorite hobby of the cultured and intelligentsia in Japan. In addition, wives and daughters of successful men and prominent families are expected to be able to attend and to participate in a tea ceremony. The most proficient and passionate practitioners diligently study under a master. Eventually, after years of practice, they are able to conduct their own tea ceremony.

So there are many interpretations of the tea ceremony, and there are several schools and styles as well. The largest schools count many famous people among their disciples. Their events are highly anticipated. Not a few ladies long to be invited. And those who are actually spend days thinking about which kimono to wear depending on the season and occasion.

ABOUT THE TEA CRANE

In contrast, the tea ceremony we attended at The Tea Crane in Kyoto that day was one that was almost without ceremony. And this is why I call it the real tea ceremony. It was conducted by tea master Tyas Sosen, whose real name is Tyas Huybrechts. He is not Japanese by birth or lineage. However it is obvious that his heart and soul are, and these are what really matter. He studied tea under the Enshuryu school of tea.

THE JAPANESE SAMURAI & TEA

Tea Master Tyas practices the samurai version of the tea ceremony. This is really how it began, after all, as a pastime of the samurai rather than of the writers and leisure classes. Many people outside the world of tea may not understand the differences between a samurai class tea ceremony and others. The utensils and decor are the same, always chosen by the tea master to reflect his feelings and mood for that day.

One of the main differences is in the language. Archaic Japanese is used in the tea ceremony — mostly phrases of almost exaggerated politeness. However, the samurai tea ceremony uses equally archaic samurai language to convey such simple things as “I’m drinking tea ahead of you, if that’s okay.” This kind of language is learned by practitioners of the samurai school of tea. Almost no one else in the world save perhaps for descendants of samurai still living in the ancient family seat use these words.

THE REAL TEA CEREMONY

The samurai tea ceremony by Tea Master Tyas is also conducted in the same warrior spirit. It is not a fancy or elaborate ceremony but one full of serious intent and heart. Also, it is literally the real experience. A very thick (and expensive) green tea is brewed and served formally.

Tyas said: “The tea ceremony is a microcosm of Japanese culture as a whole. It encompasses the different arts and crafts and synthesizes them into one.”

He continued: “As it takes years to master and understand the tea ceremony, I can’t teach the whole of it in one day. But what I can do is give you an insight into the beauty and value this ritual has to offer.”

SIMPLICITY IN LIFE

Then there was the simple scroll and flower arrangement in the alcove of the tea room. This simple style is favored by most Japanese tea masters unless there is a reason for breaking this unspoken rule.

Tyas explained: “We don’t use foreign flowers in the arrangements in the tea ceremony room. You’ll never see roses here. So the flowers in the vase today are Kyoto flowers. As much as possible, I wish to only use Kyoto flowers.”

NEW BEGINNINGS AT

THE TEA CRANE IN KYOTO

On the other hand, Tea Master Tyas picked the scroll for its meaning. We were the first guests in the tea ceremony room and The Tea Crane was opening the following day. Aside from demonstrations and tastings, he sells his personal selection of Japanese tea. He also carries organic green tea, which is very popular among foreigners.

So he chose the scroll also for its timeliness. It was about new beginnings, and how every day or every experience happens in the time that it is supposed to. No earlier or no later. Tyas explained further: “This can also pertain to the path to enlightenment. Enlightenment cannot be rushed or contrived. It will happen in its own time.”

The warrior style ceremony, which purists consider the authentic experience, was wonderful. It was also an excellent way to spent a hot summer afternoon in Kyoto, living a Travelife. Tyas explains everything so beautifully too, as only someone truly in love with the art of tea can.

Read more about traveling around Kyoto in Travelife Magazine.

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Kyoto is not a city usually associated with afternoon tea. For one thing, this is hardly a Japanese tradition. However, on a recent visit, we discovered a unique version in a most extraordinary hotel. This all came about by accident, too.

After a short walk around Ninenzaka, a famous old street near Gion, we returned to the Park Hyatt Kyoto to take refuge from the summer heat. We’d been too busy to have lunch and it was already mid-afternoon, which is neither here nor there time for a meal.

This was when the hotel concierge suggested: “Why don’t you try our afternoon tea?” I’d been hearing about this unique pairing of sweet and savory treats with assorted fine teas. So this was the perfect thing to do.

LOBBY OF THE PARK HYATT KYOTO

We sat in the corner of the lobby lounge, which is a wood paneled space filled with books and art. It’s a wonderful place to spend some time in, just relaxing over cups of tea. It’s cozy and intimate — perfect to escape the summer heat or to keep warm in the winter.

It turns out, the Park Hyatt Kyoto version of afternoon tea is a five-course event paired with tea. It can really stand in as a late lunch instead. So we were very pleased to have followed the suggestion of the concierge.

FOOD AS AFTERNOON TEA

Every course was a work of art, and the teas were delightful. We began with a plate containing two bite-sized morsels. One was a terrine of foie gras and passion fruit. Meanwhile, the other was a financier topped with fresh mango and ringed with grated coconut.

AFTERNOON TEA AT THE PARK HYATT KYOTO

One piece was savoury and the other was sweet. This turned out to be a very balanced combination of tastes, especially when drunk with a slightly acidic tea. The chef paired this with a rose hip blend from Kyoto, from the Herbalist Club Miyama.

VEGETABLES & SEAFOOD

Following a traditional multi-course meal, we then had the afternoon tea version of salad and seafood. The chef sent out a perfectly formed summer vegetable terrine and a corn waffle topped with scallop and sea urchin. We ate this with green tea wafers and cups of a green tea and ginger blend from Kotoshina in Kyoto.

EGGPLANT AS TONKATSU

The main course followed, and this was probably my favorite. A Kamo eggplant was fashioned into a deep fried cutlet and served with olive green tapenade. This was so similar to the Tonkatsu, which is everyone’s favorite Japanese comfort food.

PEACH PALATE CLEANSER

Prior to the last course, we had the equivalent of a palate cleanser. Slices of fresh peaches were arranged nicely in a basket and sprinkled with sake granite. It was a lovely pairing of sweet fruit and spicy alcohol.

READ ABOUT THE BEST NEW HOTEL IN SPAIN

CHERRY SOUFFLE FOR DESSERT

Finally, the chef sent out dessert. Or at least the equivalent of it in this afternoon tea multi-course pairing. He made a cherry and ricotta cheese soufflé which was warm, sweet and filling all at once. A slice of chocolate covered jelly accompanied the soufflé. Guessing what to do with this, we dipped the chocolate sticks into the soufflé’ and this turned out wonderfully.

The tartness of the cherry in the soufflé also complimented our last tea. We happily drank cups of tea in a beautiful red color, a blend of hibiscus and Shiso. Everything was fruity and tart and yet also sweet and comforting.

We were full after that. But what a delicious and relaxing way to spend Saturday afternoon in Kyoto.

Read more about the Park Hyatt Kyoto in Travelife Magazine.

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• Two nights of accommodation in a Deluxe-with-Balcony Room or Executive Suite
• Daily breakfast at guests’ choice of Grand Kitchen or In-Room Dining
• Choice of one of the following 90-minute experiences at Japan’s only evian SPA:

Vitalizing Signature, a body treatment incorporating traditional Japanese seitai acupressure work with deep-tissue-style massage to improve energy flow,

Celestial Therapy, a massage to improve the immune system and boost metabolism, or 

Mineral Therapy, a massage to ease tension and relax muscles

From there, guests have the flexibility to add their choice of physical or meditative pursuits (at additional charge) from an array of bespoke activities, including:

• A private two-hour swimming session with former Japanese Olympic swimmer and Asian Games medalist Hanae Ito in the hotel’s indoor pool.
• A private three-hour biking excursion led by Tokyo Great Cycling Tour, with the option to request a custom route based on neighborhoods of interest and desired endurance level.
• A private three-hour jog around the city guided by Tokyo Great Running Tour which can be personalized based on areas of interest and preferred fitness level.
• A private two-hour kayaking outing hosted by Tokyo Great Kayaking Tour and tailored based on experience level and which parts of the city guests would like to explore by water.
• A private 60-minute Aqua Relaxation Experience in the hotel’s pool, a therapy which uses water for resistance for a workout that combines gentle stretching with more active movements, helping to improve strength and flexibility while also achieving deep relaxation.

And for those interested in more contemplative yet complementary conditioning, Palace Hotel Tokyo is also offering, in collaboration with TOKI, these one-of-a-kind experiences to relish:

• Two hours of private zen meditation with the head monk of a 400-year-old Buddhist temple.
• A private two-hour Japanese tea ceremony experience at a heritage home conducted by one of Japan’s legendary tea house masters – who is now over 90 years old.
• A private two-hour introduction to shodō, the art of Japanese calligraphy, by a highly decorated shodō artist.

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