GREAT EXPECTATIONS

On my way up, I was of course anticipating a beautiful hotel typical of
the Aman group. And perhaps more so in this case, as the bar to impress guests is certainly higher in Tokyo, the city with the most number of “Aman junkies” in the world.

“I was completely unprepared for the cavernous space of light, 30 meters high, that awaited me once the elevator doors opened. Talk about making first impressions count.”

Tokyo is also ground zero for design and technology pushed to the limit. So the pressure was definitely laid thick on Aman to come up with a Tokyo property that would dazzle. Moreover, it had to do so in a most subtle way — if this is even possible. After all, most of its jaded guests have already stayed in amazing hotels all over the world.

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THE LOBBY OF AMAN TOKYO

I was one of these jaded guests and these were my lofty expectations. However, surprise greeted me upon arrival. I’ve stayed everywhere wonderful, but I was completely unprepared for the cavernous space of light, 30 meters high, that awaited me once the elevator doors opened. This was the lobby. Talk about making first impressions count.

Quite unlike any other hotel lobby in Tokyo, this is literally the equivalent of eight floors of space and soft bright light that deliberately extends one’s vision all the way to the top.

WHAT TO DO WITH WASHI PAPER

Then the designers covered the walls of about six of these floors in textured “washi” paper. They stretched these on a wooden shoji frame to resemble a traditional Japanese paper lantern. This gave the lobby an aura of unearthliness appropriate for a hotel so high up.

Meanwhile, at eye level, a calm pool of water lay at the center of attention. This was located somewhere between polished wood, rough grey stone, two Zen rock gardens and a mammoth arrangement of fragile ikebana-inspired greenery.

Then there were the views to take your breath away if you still had any left. I saw the breadth and width of the Tokyo skyline before me. This certainly made for a good combination of earth, sky, and, of course, luxury.

THE PERFECT FIT

Admittedly, this truly 21st century hotel is not for everyone. However minimalists and enthusiasts for Japanese design will immediately appreciate its aesthetics. It is stark, crisp and so seamless. Like a simple but perfectly cut little black designer dress.

READ ABOUT THE AMANEMU IN ISE

At least, this is how I felt, checking in one recent Sunday to happily call Aman Tokyo my home for four days. I was already sufficiently enamored at the outset. Nevertheless, this hotel grows on you and ends up fitting your lifestyle. By the end of my stay, I most definitely would have stayed four months or four years instead of four days — had my credit card allowed this.

Read more about the best hotels and resorts in Japan in Travelife Magazine.

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During this pandemic, not a few people have asked themselves where to get away from it all. With a virus running rampant, many are looking to go on safe holidays away from crowds and cities. Well, the AAA Four Diamond Vista Verde Ranch in Colorado is probably the best place to get away from it all.  

NOTHING ELSE AROUND BUT A LUXURY RANCH

This family run ranch with a million acres is about 25 miles from the nearest traffic light. It has a herd of 100 horses so you might say that it’s a traditional ranch. However, it’s also a luxury resort. There is a staff guest ratio of over 1 to 1, and distinct adult or family times during the year. Vista Verde Ranch is also a great favorite forsolo travelers searching for a wide-open space and an escape to nature.

WHAT TO DO IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS

The ranch has many outstanding riding experiences. Beginners can take a trek through the incredible Rocky Mountains. Meanwhile, the more experienced can participate in the full cattle round up every September. Vista Verde Ranch invites guests to head out and help round up the cattle before the snow arrives. There’s a lot of ground to cover, too. 16,000 acres of forested land in total. This high adrenalin activity is definitely a bucket list activity with a difference. However, it’s not for the faint hearted.

WHAT IS SNOGA

The ranch is also introducing SNOGA this winter. This is really a trek and a yoga session combined. Guests snowshoe out to a rustic cabin for a yoga class by a cozy fire. All levels are welcome and the teacher adjusts the session to the level of the guests. After yoga, the guests snowshoe back to their own private cabins.

Vista Verde is quite unlike the usual trekking ranches. They take great pride in helping guests with all levels of riding abilities to improve their skills and enjoy the experience. In fact, Vista Verde’s “horse program” kicks off with an orientation that works from the ground up.

HOW TO DEVELOP A RELATIONSHIP WITH A HORSE

The staff first teach guests how to communicate with their assigned horse and understand the language of equines. The ranch wranglers take time and care to pair each guest with the horse most appropriate for them, and this will be their “own horse” for the week. This allows riders to develop a unique and special relationship with their horse during their stay. And it makes all the difference in the ranch experience.

HORSEBACK RIDING A LA CARTE

After that, each guest can create what they want. They can go on leisurely and scenic trail rides through the Aspens or attend specific clinics in the arena. The ranch also offers small group lessons or instructional trail rides for guests who want to learn specific riding techniques for real time situations. Each rider can choose how much they want to put into or get out of the time they are on horseback. 

For the chillier months there is an indoor heated arena for winter riding. Furthermore, lessons and clinics are available for all riding levels. For those who simply wish to enjoy the mountains, there is something magical about trekking with a blanket of fresh snow under hoof. Then there’s also the opportunity to head out on one of the ranches very own horse sleighs. The latter is a great favorite among guests.

OTHER ACTIVITIES AT VISTA VERDE RANCH

Although the Vista Verde Ranch is famous for all things equine, they also provide diverse activities. Guests can enjoy everything from cross country skiing and sleigh rides to photography and wine tasting courses. The ranch is well known for its wine collection, having received the coveted Award of Excellence by the Wine Spectator.

The ranch has 15 private log cabins with hot tubs on each deck and three lodge rooms. Each of the cabins is named after the local mountains. They are rustic on the outside but cozy and luxurious inside. Most are spacious, with a sitting area for relaxing with a favorite book while keeping warm around the wood-burning stove under the star lit sky.

Read more about the best travel experiences in the world in Travelife Magazine.

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Hokkaido is an outdoors destination all year round. Visitors go skiing during the long winter and then hike and bike the rest of the year. As most of the activities are outdoors, many dining options are also outside. Everyone in these parts loves going on picnics or sitting on benches in parks with a snack.

WHERE TO GO FOR BARBECUE IN HOKKAIDO

Meanwhile, families who visit Hokkaido never leave without having at least one barbecue dinner. It’s the quintessential Hokkaido experience, to hold a barbecue under the stars.

Of course, we were part of the majority who were keen to experience a summer evening barbecue dinner at the Kiroro Tribute Portfolio Hotel in Hokkaido. This is quite famous all over Japan because the ingredients from Hokkaido are considered the best quality of food. Then there’s the fact that the weather in the summer is just amazing. You want to sit outdoors all night long.

DINNER AT THE KIRORO TRIBUTE PORTFOLIO

The Kiroro Tribute Portfolio offers a summer evening barbecue on the terrace of the hotel. It’s very popular among guests and locals, so bookings are required in advance. The hotel team sets up tables in a circle around the fountain, with a large tent in the middle. Lounge music or live music plays all night and there’s a chill vibe all around.

The team sets up a barbecue station for each group, So on every table there is a table-top barbecue grill that’s fired and ready to cook. It holds just enough cooking bricks for about three hours so guests can relax and cook and eat at leisure.

THE BEST INGREDIENTS IN JAPAN

Several trays of food come with the standard package, and it’s really a lot of food. There are assorted cuts of pork, beef and lamp. Then we also had a lot seafood. We had giant shrimps and scallops, and sliced squid. Plus bread to roast and even onigiri.

Of course, there are also vegetables for grilling like tomatoes and asparagus, and traditional Hokkaido food like corn. Dessert is also roasted on the grill, just like everything else.

DESSERT ON THE BARBECUE

Towards the end of dinner, the waitstaff brings a package wrapped in foil. “Place that on the grill and it’ll be ready to eat in a few minutes,” our waiter told us, with a smile. We did as we were told. The result was a delicious mash of warmed up marshmallows, bananas with brown sugar and some crumbled cookies. It was so good that I wouldn’t have minded getting seconds.

THE BEST GRILLED CHEESE

Aside from the dinner package, there’s also an a la carte menu. We ordered a Hokkaido Camembert cheese for roasting from this menu just to try what it was like. It arrived with slices of bread and toast. Again, we were told to place the Camembert cheese on the grill for a few minutes.

When we finally opened it up, it was warm, soft and gooey. Perfect for spreading on toasts for an appetizer. Who would have thought that grilled Camembert cheese could be so delicious?

READ ABOUT A ROMANTIC NEW HOTEL IN SPAIN

Just as we were enjoying dessert, there was a commotion at the other end of the Kiroro Tribute Portfolio. It turned out that the fireworks were about to start, so many people were on their way to the field to watch. Of course we joined the crowds to watch. So in this sense, we actually had two desserts.

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Kyoto is not a city usually associated with afternoon tea. For one thing, this is hardly a Japanese tradition. However, on a recent visit, we discovered a unique version in a most extraordinary hotel. This all came about by accident, too.

After a short walk around Ninenzaka, a famous old street near Gion, we returned to the Park Hyatt Kyoto to take refuge from the summer heat. We’d been too busy to have lunch and it was already mid-afternoon, which is neither here nor there time for a meal.

This was when the hotel concierge suggested: “Why don’t you try our afternoon tea?” I’d been hearing about this unique pairing of sweet and savory treats with assorted fine teas. So this was the perfect thing to do.

LOBBY OF THE PARK HYATT KYOTO

We sat in the corner of the lobby lounge, which is a wood paneled space filled with books and art. It’s a wonderful place to spend some time in, just relaxing over cups of tea. It’s cozy and intimate — perfect to escape the summer heat or to keep warm in the winter.

It turns out, the Park Hyatt Kyoto version of afternoon tea is a five-course event paired with tea. It can really stand in as a late lunch instead. So we were very pleased to have followed the suggestion of the concierge.

FOOD AS AFTERNOON TEA

Every course was a work of art, and the teas were delightful. We began with a plate containing two bite-sized morsels. One was a terrine of foie gras and passion fruit. Meanwhile, the other was a financier topped with fresh mango and ringed with grated coconut.

AFTERNOON TEA AT THE PARK HYATT KYOTO

One piece was savoury and the other was sweet. This turned out to be a very balanced combination of tastes, especially when drunk with a slightly acidic tea. The chef paired this with a rose hip blend from Kyoto, from the Herbalist Club Miyama.

VEGETABLES & SEAFOOD

Following a traditional multi-course meal, we then had the afternoon tea version of salad and seafood. The chef sent out a perfectly formed summer vegetable terrine and a corn waffle topped with scallop and sea urchin. We ate this with green tea wafers and cups of a green tea and ginger blend from Kotoshina in Kyoto.

EGGPLANT AS TONKATSU

The main course followed, and this was probably my favorite. A Kamo eggplant was fashioned into a deep fried cutlet and served with olive green tapenade. This was so similar to the Tonkatsu, which is everyone’s favorite Japanese comfort food.

PEACH PALATE CLEANSER

Prior to the last course, we had the equivalent of a palate cleanser. Slices of fresh peaches were arranged nicely in a basket and sprinkled with sake granite. It was a lovely pairing of sweet fruit and spicy alcohol.

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CHERRY SOUFFLE FOR DESSERT

Finally, the chef sent out dessert. Or at least the equivalent of it in this afternoon tea multi-course pairing. He made a cherry and ricotta cheese soufflé which was warm, sweet and filling all at once. A slice of chocolate covered jelly accompanied the soufflé. Guessing what to do with this, we dipped the chocolate sticks into the soufflé’ and this turned out wonderfully.

The tartness of the cherry in the soufflé also complimented our last tea. We happily drank cups of tea in a beautiful red color, a blend of hibiscus and Shiso. Everything was fruity and tart and yet also sweet and comforting.

We were full after that. But what a delicious and relaxing way to spend Saturday afternoon in Kyoto.

Read more about the Park Hyatt Kyoto in Travelife Magazine.

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Chinzanso in the residential neighborhood of Meijiro in Tokyo is a grand hotel well loved by the old families of Tokyo. It’s luxurious, beautiful and full of Old World charm. It’s the best of traditional Japanese hospitality and Western comfort put together.

If you’ve been to Tokyo many times and wish to see a less touristy side of this city, this is the perfect hotel to stay in. It has a hot springs on-site, so many excellent restaurants, and a beautiful garden. So once you check-in, you’ll probably not want to leave.

DREAM WEDDING VENUE IN TOKYO

In fact, the garden of Chinzanso is very famous in Tokyo. Many Tokyo residents book staycations and meals at the restaurants just to enjoy the garden. Many couples also regard Chinzanso as their dream wedding venue in Japan. So it is extremely popular to hold an exclusive wedding reception here, in the adjacent banquet hall.

This is probably the most beautiful garden in Tokyo that is privately owned but accessible to the public. Guests can view the gardens from the premium rooms, the best tables in the restaurants and banquet halls.

HISTORY OF CHINZANSO

The history of Chinzanso’s land goes back to the 15th century, when it was already famous for camellias blooming on-site. However, the gardens itself really began in 1878. This was when Aritomo Yamagata, a former prime minister of Japan, bought the property from the aristocratic Kuroda family.

Yamagata-san then hired Katsugoro Iwatamo, who was then known as the best gardener in Tokyo, to work for him. The gardener created a series of pocket gardens and hills, plus a pond. These all remain to these day.

Actually, Yamagata-san was a great connoisseur of art and culture. So Chinzanso is just one of three gardens he commissioned. However it is his only beautiful garden in Tokyo and it is also the most famous one.

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ABOUT THIS BEAUTIFUL GARDEN IN TOKYO

In 1918, Yamagata-san sold his estate and in 1948 it eventually became the property of Fujita Kogyo, the company that still owns Chinzanso. The founder of Fujita Kogyo also loved gardens. So he planted 10,000 trees to recreate the glory of Chinzanso, as it had been damaged during World War II.

Today, Chinzanso is synonymous with the grand life of pre-war Japan. It’s especially refreshing to see, amidst all the sleek high-rise new hotels made of glass and steel. One only has to walk through the garden, a beautiful oasis amidst a cityscape of Tokyo apartments and office buildings, to transport one’s self to another world and another era.

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Most of the 24 suites and four two-bedroom villas have views of the bay and of the pearl farms. These also have hot springs bathtubs carved out of black granite that look out onto greenery.

SIMPLE ELEGANCE AT AMANEMU

Apart from these features, Amanemu is simplicity itself. Inside these stark modern structures, you will find wooden interiors along the same lines of a Japanese shrine. The hue of brown is exactly that of a well-polished chopsticks. Inside, you’ll find more somber pottery and utensils that speak of grace and elegance.

As for the architectural features, these are so restrained that you will immediately notice a cup or a book that is not in its place. Even the three plums in a basket on the table were arranged so artlessly and yet so artistically that I preferred to take photos of them than to eat them.

HOW TO FIND PEACE

At Amanemu, you will definitely find your peace. That is, if you don’t carry it within you yet. After entering its premises, almost everything mundane will cease to matter when confronted with the seamless serenity wherever you will look. In fact, this serenity is similar to what pilgrims must experience upon reaching the famous Ise Shrine, which is just a few minutes away.

Trust me. Amanemu is sublime at its best. It will overcome you even before you realize it. By the second day, you will be experiencing joy just by sitting on the sofa on the terrace, gazing at trees and the sea.

ABOUT AMANEMU

Amanemu is quiet and serene so it’s the perfect place to get away from it all. Most of the Amanemu villas have a view of the sea and the pearl farms of Ise, except for the entry-level villas which have views of greenery.

Otherwise, the layouts of the villas at Amanemu are the same. There is the one-bedroom Amanemu villa, which is basically half of a duplex, and they are all of the same size and layout, including a hot springs bathtub. The only difference is the view.

Then you have the two-bedroom Amanemu villas which are two bedrooms joined by a living room and a common bath, although each villa is ensuite anyway. The common bath is a hot springs bath while the ensuite baths are not.

THE LARGEST HOT SPRINGS POOL IN JAPAN

In contrast to the simplicity of the villas, the spa complex is a wondrous maze of water and wellness. It’s located at the end of the estate. The design is beautiful and it has a carefully planned bathing area with a simple wooden tub as focal point.

Meanwhile, the largest outdoor hot springs pool I have ever seen in Japan is just outside. It’s not even a pool, really. Rather, it’s a collection of large and small pools that flow into each other. The pools are surrounded by stylish cabanas, lounging areas and treatment rooms. Here, in one of the treatment rooms looking out onto a rock garden, I had an excellent 90-minute shiatsu massage designed to revitalize and invigorate.

BREAKFAST AT AMANEMU

The next morning, we decided to have breakfast in our room. Meals are also served at the main restaurant. However, we could not tear ourselves away from the serenity we’d so easily become accustomed to overnight. A smiling lady delivered our Japanese breakfast to us in unvarnished wooden boxes.

Each small dish was again placed so picturesquely within its assigned space. So breakfast looked more like an artwork than food. We lingered over our meal, comforted by the understanding that life is best savoured in small but delightful doses at Amanemu. Just like our Japanese bento box breakfast.

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On holiday for two weeks in beautiful Hokkaido, we ended our stay with several days at the Chalet Mizunara of Elite Havens Luxury Villa Rentals and Management. Located in a quiet street of vacation homes in Lower Hirafu, it’s a lovely four bedroom house that’s ever so relaxing.

ABOUT CHALET MIZUNARA IN NISEKO OF ELITE HAVENS

Meanwhile, the Chalet Mizunara is an attractive contemporary house. It’s all concrete, polished wood and steel so it has an industrial but warm feel. Most guests reportedly like it immediately. We certainly did.

In the summer, guests can enjoy views of greenery from the terraces and big picture windows. Meanwhile, in the winter, when the big tree behind the house sheds its leaves, guests are treated to a majestic view of Mount Yotei. As far as residents in Niseko are concerned, this is the million yen view that separates premium properties from ordinary ones.

A HOUSE DESIGNED FOR SNOW

From the outside, the villa looks like a simple box-like structure. The kind you’d expect to see in Niseko. Because of its extreme winter climate, the walls are thick for heat insulation and these have the added bonus of being cool in the summer. Meanwhile, the overall shape of the house is functional for heavy snowfall.

LAYOUT OF CHALET MIZUNARA

However, when you enter, it is anything but simple. For one thing, every living space is on a different level. There are two bedrooms and utility rooms on the ground floor, and guests usually enter from a double door entrance on the first floor.

From the entrance foyer, it’s a flight of stairs up to the living room and the first terrace. Then there’s a sitting area with book shelves and a fireplace two steps up. Meanwhile, the kitchen and the long dining table are on another level.

HOUSE WITH A VIEW OF MOUNT YOTEI

Two ensuite master bedrooms occupy the top floor and share a massive terrace with the best views of Mount Yotei in the winter. Each has a spacious bathroom with a deep built-in bathtub that’s a cross between a Japanese-style soaking tub and an oversized Western-style bathtub.

The design throughout Chalet Mizunara is stylish and yet practical. Everything has muted colors and clean lines so the effect is quite relaxing.

THESE CATERERS WILL COOK FOR YOU IN NISEKO

WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN RENTING A VILLA IN HOKKAIDO

It’s also constructed to house large families comfortably. For one thing, there are enough bathrooms for everyone. This feature should not be underestimated by holiday makers when choosing the best villa to book in Niseko. In general, bathrooms are always in short supply when everyone is in a rush to head for the ski slopes at the same time.

THE IMPORTANCE OF BATHROOMS

The situation is especially acute in Japanese-style homes. The idea of ensuite bathrooms plus extra bathrooms for the common areas is very much a Western concept so please make sure to ask about the number of bathrooms when renting.

There are also enough nooks and crannies at Chalet Mizunara so that every guest can find some peace and quiet without others getting in the way. I suppose this is the beauty of the multi-level construction.

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Again, this feature is especially vital for villa rentals in Hokkaido in the winter. You see, amidst the extreme cold of Hokkaido, you’re basically confined to your villa unless you are out skiing or doing adventure sports.

Meanwhile, the Chalet Mizunara is perfect in the summer. You can open all the windows and terrace doors to allow in the breeze, and everywhere you look is a fresh green. The birds are chirping, the flowers are blooming and every day is just wonderful.

Read more about the best places to stay in Hokkaido in Travelife Magazine.

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There are ski towns, and then there is Niseko. Tucked into the mountains of Hokkaido, it is famous for powder snow so deep it draws skiers from across the globe. But I wasn’t here to ski. I came for something else: the promise of luxury at the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono, a hotel whispered about as one of Japan’s most refined retreats.

The drive up was all silence and snow, the kind of hush that makes you feel as if you’ve left the world behind. And then, suddenly, the Park Hyatt appeared — all sharp lines, warm light, and glass walls that framed the winter outside like paintings. Inside, wood and stone glowed with understated elegance. It wasn’t showy, but it was grand all the same. I knew I’d arrived somewhere I wouldn’t want to leave.

Corner Suite at Park Hyatt Niseko:

My room was a corner suite, the kind of place that makes you pause before dropping your bag. Two walls of glass brought Niseko’s landscape into every corner. On one side, the slopes rolled down in soft curves; on the other, the majestic cone of Mount Yotei stood against the sky.

The suite had space to breathe — a proper living room, a dedicated dining area, and the kind of silence you don’t find in cities. Breakfast arrived each morning like a still life: pastries so crisp they shattered, bowls of fruit glowing with color, coffee that filled the room with warmth. To eat it at my own table, sunlight spilling across the snow, felt more indulgent than any buffet.

La Esperanza Granada: Luxury Villa and Event Venue in Spain

Afternoons had their own ritual. The hotel arranged for Pierre Hermé sundaes to be delivered to my suite. Imagine layers of ice cream, fruit, and chocolate by one of the world’s greatest patissiers, served while snowflakes drift past your window. It was indulgence and simplicity at once — a quiet luxury that felt almost too good to share.

And then, of course, the hot spring soaking tub. Every evening I would sink into its warmth, the steam rising against the glass, Mount Yotei beyond. Watching the light fade over the mountain from the comfort of an onsen became my private ceremony.

Fine Dining in Niseko

The Park Hyatt Niseko has eleven restaurants, but one of them steals the spotlight. Molière Montagne is the mountain outpost of Chef Hiroshi Nakamichi, Hokkaido’s only three-Michelin-starred chef.

Dining here is theater. The courses arrive in sequence, precise and surprising, each plate a story of Hokkaido told through Nakamichi’s imagination. There was shellfish encased in a black squid crust — dramatic, almost sculptural — that broke open to reveal the sea itself. There was grilled pork, juicy and fragrant, laid over fresh tree branches that carried the scent of the forest right to the table. And finally, Nakamichi’s famous cheese with berries, a dish I first tasted in Sapporo but which felt even more poetic here in Niseko.

It wasn’t French. It wasn’t Japanese. It was something in between — or beyond — and it reminded me that the very best chefs don’t cook in categories, they cook in voices. Nakamichi’s is unmistakable.

Read about Nagatacho Ohka: Tokyo’s Best Restaurant

Spaces at Park Hyatt Niseko

What struck me most about the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono wasn’t only the food or the architecture. It was the sense of space. Lounges opened into wide views of the mountains. Fireplaces crackled softly as guests sank into armchairs. Service appeared before you asked, and vanished just as quickly.

Every detail was considered — the hush of the snow outside, the warmth of the interiors, the ease of knowing everything was quietly in place.

The Best Hotel in Niseko

When I left Niseko, I didn’t carry shopping bags or souvenirs. I carried moments. Breakfast at my own table while Mount Yotei glowed in the morning sun. A spoonful of Pierre Hermé ice cream as snow thickened outside. A final evening in the onsen, steam rising as the mountain faded into twilight.

The Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono is not just another five-star hotel. It is a destination in itself, where Japan’s northern landscapes and world-class hospitality meet. For travelers seeking the finest experience in Niseko — whether they ski or not — this is the address.

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It is often said that the true beauty of picturesque Kyoto lies in the minute details that are often unnoticed by eyes that are untrained to appreciate modest aesthetics. Nowhere is this more evident than at Tawaraya, Japan’s most famous ryokan (traditional inn), right in the heart of the city and one that has been welcoming travelers for over three hundred years

STAYING IN A JAPANESE RYOKAN

As with everything at the Tawaraya, there is nothing so obvious or uncouth as a registration procedure upon arrival. There are 19 rooms here but somehow the 77-plus staff – yes, that’s a ratio of almost 4 staff members per room – knew who we were and which room we had booked. At the main entrance, before heading for our room, we took off our shoes and promptly forgot about them for the next 15 hours.

Kyoto itself is very richly steeped in the past, and it has one of the most closed and conservative societies in Japan. But a stay at the Tawaraya is like a temporary gate pass into this society, and entering the inn is literally akin to completely leaving today’s world behind.

From the brightness of the afternoon – most guests at Japanese inns do arrive before sunset to relax and have a bath before dinner – you suddenly find yourself in a dark maze of corridors and rooms, with a glimpse of greenery or of a pocket garden every now and then.

So we passed through tatami mat rooms and carpeted corridors adorned with antique cabinets and tables on our way to our room on the first floor. This room – it had a foyer, a small outer room with a study table and a main room that functioned as living room, dining room and bedroom – looked out onto a small walled garden with maple trees and grounds carpeted in moss.

WHERE TO GO IN KYOTO

Tawaraya is about a 15-minute taxi ride from Kyoto Station. We chose to stay here, amidst a myriad of options in one of Japan’s most-visited cities, partly because of its proximity to Kyoto’s historic Nishiki market and the enclaves of culture around it, where artists, art dealers and food enthusiasts congregate. It’s the perfect spot for discovering the soul of Kyoto on foot.

“This street is home to three famous ryokan,” our taxi driver told us, as we passed Nishiki market and entered a narrow one-way street lined with a combination of old shop houses and modern buildings converted into art galleries, chic stores and trendy cafes. And soon we stopped in front of a wooden compound of structures with a simple entrance that first curved right before making a sharp left into the entrance proper, raised one step above the ground.

From the outside, it looked more like the well-appointed home of a samurai family in the olden days than a famous inn in 2012. However, a simple and unobtrusive sign confirmed we had reached our destination. Then, like clockwork, as soon as we got out of our taxi, a team of two men and a lady in a kimono appeared to welcome us to our “home” in Kyoto

FAMOUS GUESTS OF TAWARAYA

This was not luxury as we knew it. The room was adequate but in no language could this ever be called large. It was barely furnished and practically unadorned, save for a simple vase of flowers and an old screen on a faded wall. In fact, with a quick glance, I could immediately discern corners and surfaces that were slightly fraying at the edges.

But it is precisely this feeling of old fashioned Japan – a patina that just cannot be created or faked – that has prompted connoisseurs of Japanese culture to place Tawaraya at the very top of their destination lists for centuries. Japanese aristocrats, relatives of the imperial family, and even the heroes of the 19th century Meiji Restoration all used the Tawaraya as their base when visiting Kyoto from Tokyo.

Japanese aristocrats, relatives of the imperial family, and even the heroes of the 19th century Meiji Restoration all used the Tawaraya as their base when visiting Kyoto from Tokyo.

Ordinary Japanese who understand the value of the highly prized Japanese sense of wabi sabi (roughly translated as an appreciation of faded simplicity), too, choose a stay at Tawaraya as one of the experiences of a lifetime.

Tawaraya is well known the world over as well, for its hospitality and cuisine. Its roster of guests reads like a lesson in history, and it includes the French philosopher Jean Paul Sartre, the British suspense novelist Alfred Hitchcock, composer Leonard Bernstein and actor Marlon Brando.

Meanwhile, Apple founder Steve Jobs reportedly loved the Tawaraya experience so much that he stayed here several times. On his last visit, just several months before his death, he took his son to the Tawaraya for a final family-bonding trip to Japan.

Apple founder Steve Jobs reportedly loved the Tawaraya experience so much that he stayed here several times. On his last visit, just several months before his death, he took his son to the Tawaraya for a final family-bonding trip to Japan.

REAL KYOTO FOOD

Many ryokan in Kyoto offer the Japan experience, but few can truly offer both a pedigreed experience and an exceptional Kyoto dinner in the way that Tawaraya can. This inn has been in the same family for over 300 years, and its mistress is the 11th generation innkeeper.

Meanwhile, in true Kyoto fashion, the multi-course kaiseki dinner consists of dish after dish of local vegetables and tofu, supplemented by seasonal fish from western Japan. It ends with a plate of the choicest of seasonal fruit. For this stay, for example, we were each served one large and juicy fig that had been lightly stewed in sugar and spices.

After dinner, it was time to turn the dining room into a bedroom, and this just could not happen with two attendants and two guests in the room at the same time. We were therefore encouraged to explore the public spaces of the ryokan while the attendants undertook the mundane task of preparing the beds.

AFTER DINNER ENTERTAINMENT

For this “escape” we had three modest options: a small rooftop terrace for moon-viewing, with comfortable chairs and pots of tea; a tiny library on the second floor with several corners to park one’s self momentarily; or an even tinier reading space on the ground floor that offered a sliver of a view of an indoor garden.

We visited all three in search of trivia and clues about the people who had spent their nights in this historical house, and were rewarded with an autobiography of the actress Lauren Bacall that she had dedicated and signed during her stay.

We returned to our room after about half an hour to find everything laid out for us. There were two Japanese-style beddings on the floor – Tawaraya is famous for its mattress, made from the floss of 10,000 silk cocoons, and its comforters, which are reportedly made from feathers plucked from the breasts of live geese – and enough hot tea and cold water to last the night. Again, everything was comfortable but nothing was superfluous.

A JAPANESE BREAKFAST

In the morning, our room attendant knocked on the door exactly at 730 AM, as agreed upon, to begin the preparations for breakfast. The breakfast at the Tawaraya is something of a conversation topic among lovers of the good life in Japan because the rice and the boiled tofu they serve to “nudge the stomach awake” are supposed to be among the best in Japan.

The rice served at Tawaraya is from this year’s harvest, straight from the fields of Kyoto itself, while the tofu is reportedly delivered early every morning by a dedicated supplier who has been doing so for centuries.

We were at the center of old Kyoto but, ironically, we’d hardly known it. At the end of our stay, we realized that our expectations of luxury and space had been drastically scaled down even if, unfortunately, the room rates did not exactly follow suit.

By then, we’d spent over fifteen hours in a rather confined space, during which time – in a cramped city of over 1.5 million people – we’d heard almost nothing but the chirping of the crickets, the graceful shuffling of feet, and, yes, one ambulance passing nearby.

This was the center of old Kyoto but, ironically, we’d hardly known it, even if we’d not been unaware of it even for a minute. At the end of our stay, we realized that our expectations of luxury and space had been drastically scaled down even if, unfortunately, the room rates did not exactly follow suit. But once we had adjusted to the hefty bill coupled with the minuteness of everything, we were completely enchanted by the Tawaraya experience.

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