One early winter morning, we headed out of the lovely city of Cuenca for a day in the remote countryside. We drove for over two hours along winding country roads to have lunch with truffle hunters in a small hamlet in the interior of Spain. I wanted to find out how Spanish truffle hunters live and what they eat.

Casa Chon is located in one of the most remote areas of Europe with the lowest population density. Here, it’s not unusual to drive for miles without seeing anyone at all.

THE NATIONAL PARKS OF SPAIN

However, the nature here is simply majestic. All around us were beautiful lakes, mountains and forests. The soil is red earth and the waters are a deep hue of blue. Part of the way was completely covered in snow, and this was pretty too.

Fortunately, the temperature heated up slightly from below zero to two degrees by the time we reached our destination. There was no snow in the hamlet and it was surrounded by autumn colors.

HOW TO BUILD A HOME BY HAND

“The truffle hunter and his wife built their home entirely by hand,” my friend Jorge explained about Casa Chon, as we walked around the property, looking at everything. He added: “In fact, they didn’t use a forklift or any kind of building equipment for this.”

I looked at the truffle hunter who stood there in his jogging outfit, smiling proudly about his handmade home. He said: “I lifted everything myself. I did not even use a forklift.” The homes were made from nearby stones, logs and cement.

Then I looked at the structure they had built, wondering how they had done everything by hand. It was two stories tall, and it consisted of several apartments. They use one apartment for themselves and rent out the others to vacationers wishing to enjoy simple country life at Casa Chon.

A TRUFFLE LUNCH AT CASA CHON

The wife prepared lunch for us. It was a six-course meal with truffles used in various ways. Everything was simple and natural but delicious. The table decor too was colourful — perfect for an Instagram photo. In fact, with its effortless styling, it would have put many a smart restaurant in Spain to shame.

Jorge said to me: “It’s very hard to get things here. The nearest supermarket is around 38 kilometres away. So they must learn to make do with what they have.”

Fortunately, the truffle hunters had no shortage of truffles. So we had simple food, but every dish had a mound of truffles on it. In addition, the wife placed a heap of sliced truffles into a bowl of olive oil.

Then she also placed on the table homemade truffle butter and truffle mayonnaise. For the round of next courses, she made an entire plate deviled eggs topped with truffles. She also made thick pumpkin soup flavoured with truffles.

Everything was absolutely delicious. For example, I am not particularly fond of deviled eggs but I found myself eating most of what was on this large blue plate.

I so enjoyed this day out in the countryside of Spain, so far from civilization and yet in the heart of truffle hunting country. I also got to meet real locals who literally live by the toil of their own hands — whether it is building their home or hunting for their food. They forage and plant or harvest everyday, and nature is their life.

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We were walking around a tiny hamlet of Mora de Rubielos in the interior of beautiful Spain one late afternoon last month. This is supposed to be one of the prettiest little towns in the country, or what the Spaniards describe as “los bonitos pueblos del interior de España,” so I was eager to see the town squares and the buildings.

It really is a lovely little town few foreigners have heard of. It’s also the epicentre for the truffle industry of Spain, which experts say is the biggest in the world. Just after we’d passed the church square, my companion said on the spur of the moment: “Let’s climb to the top of that mountain for an amazing view. It’ll be fun.”

ARAGON: THE REAL SPAIN

There is a mountain right next to the town and locals climb this for exercise. The 14 Stations of the Cross are also installed along the ridge, so many people from around the region come here during Holy Week to complete their prayers.

The view from the top, where there is an ancient look-out tower, is supposed to be breathtaking. There are few foreign tourists in the regions of Castilla-La Mancha and Aragon, by the way. Most travelers bypass these places to head to the major cities outside Madrid like Barcelona, Seville or Toledo.

This is probably why Castilla-La Mancha and Aragon are often referred to by locals as the “real Spain.” They are way off the grid in every sense, so the town are all about real life. Tourists are few and far between. 

I stayed in a lovely suite in the best hotel in Mora de Rubielos, for instance, with an impressive spa and a great truffle restaurant; and the receptionist said to me: “I think we had an Asian tourist once, a few years ago.”

THE MOUNTAINS OF SPAIN. AND OF LIFE.

Anyhow, back to the mountain next to Mora de Rubielos. This mountain was quite symbolic, as all of that day I was thinking of metaphorical mountains to climb in my life.

Then, so very suddenly, I was ending the day with a real mammoth of a mountain in front of me. There truly are no accidents in life. This was certainly the push I needed to tackle this mountain, along with the symbolic mountains of my life.

It was just at that border between autumn and winter when I visited, and that particular day brought freezing temperatures but clear skies. And just as my companion proposed a climb, we were quickly heading into night and the strong winds easily brought everything down by five degrees or more in three seconds flat.

If you’ve already been to the major cities of Spain, perhaps it’s time to explore “los bonitos pueblos del interior de España.” And to climb that mountain in your life.

CARPE DIEM IN MORA DE RUBIELOS

But my companion was insistent. She said: “We must do it. When else will you have the chance? Carpe Diem.”

So we climbed the mountain in freezing winter weather. It was tough but obviously not impossible. Some of the locals were climbing this same mountain every day, in fact.

So we hiked up slowly, pausing to take photos every so often. And at the top, we were rewarded with views of this extraordinary hamlet, with its charming streets, exquisite original wooden architecture, and this massive medieval castle. And, of course, it’s famous truffles industry.

RELATED CONTENT: Hunting truffles with the King of Truffles in Spain

If you’ve already been to the major cities of Spain, perhaps it’s time to explore “los bonitos pueblos del interior de España.” And to climb that mountain in your life.

Read more about traveling in Spain in Travelife Magazine.

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What an experience it was, to go hunting with the man regarded as the King of Black Truffles of Spain. It was a beautiful but freezing day and we went out into the mountains outside a tiny hamlet called Mora de Rubielos where the best black truffles in the world are to be found.

Mora de Rubielos, by the way, is one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. Only 1000 people live in this village. However, it is the centre for black truffles in Spain and it has a lovely castle and town square. It also has a good four-star hotel called the Hotel Trufa Negra. Here you’ll find very comfortable rooms, a good chef and friendly staff. If you stay here, get room #402 which is a suite with a terrace overlooking the castle.

PRICE OF BLACK TRUFFLES IN SPAIN

As for the truffles, the price of good fresh black truffles is quite high. It typically hovers around 3000 euros a kilo in high season in the major capitals of the world. Truffles are especially popular in cities like Tokyo, London, New York or Hong Kong. That is, if fresh black truffles are available at all. Here in Mora de Rubielos, the going price for retail depends on the date. The price rises for truffles dug up later into winter. For the 4th week of November, it’s about 500 euros a kilo.

THE BEST TRUFFLES IN THE WORLD

From Mora de Rubielos, traders fly the truffles out to the best restaurants of the world. They also deliver to select truffle retailers. Even the French truffle traders come here to buy black truffles. They bring these to the famous Carpentras truffle market and to the top chefs of France.

Yesterday, we drove deep into the mountains in a special truffle vehicle made by a company called Polaris. The King of Truffles in Spain first took me around his property in Mora de Rubielos in this Polaris 4×4. And then we parked the 4×4 in a clearing and walked amongst trees on hard-scrabble land, following our dog.

THE TRUFFLE DOG

Our dog Nora found a lot of truffle sites that morning. Then, once the dog determined a site, I got down on my knees to dig with my hands and a small shovel. It’s a tedious process as you must take great care not to break the truffle while digging.

THE SMELL OF SUCCESS

Interestingly, the smell of the truffles is so strong. The aroma is in the air as soon as you break ground. So you literally need to follow your nose. And my entire hotel room at the Hotel Trufa Negra smelled of the truffles I’d picked. I was really surprised as the truffles were already safely packed away for flying.

I must’ve passed the truffle hunting test, too. After I’d successfully dug up a few pieces of truffles, the King of Truffles said to me in Spanish: “So. When are you coming back to work for us?” Actually, I’d love to return to Mora de Ribielos and hunt for truffles again. It was really fun.

COOKING WITH TRUFFLES AND BRANDY

Yesterday, too, I bought a bottle of good Spanish brandy. Then I dropped a few of the truffles I picked inside. I need six months to infuse the brandy properly with truffles. But when it’s done, I’ll host a six-course dinner using this brandy infused with truffles I have picked myself. Truffle lovers can also drink the brandy, of course.

MAKING TRUFFLE PASTA

Incidentally, truffle brandy can be used for any kind of cooking. It’s delicious with everything from scrambled eggs to roast lamb to ice cream. And, of course, I am saving a few precious fresh truffles for a pasta dinner with friends back home. “Six months is too long to wait for the brandy,” my friends said. So when I return home in a few days, I’m going to make my pasta with truffles. I’m sure these will be some of the freshest truffles in Asia.

Read more stories about traveling around Spain in Travelife Magazine.

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