In South Africa recently, we stayed at the 12 Apostles Hotel and Spa in Cape Town. Finding ourselves in a mild state of inebriation after numerous drinks at the Leopard Bar, we were in the mood for anything. Fortunately, the casual mention of a gin-making class prompted us to book a session with Angus van Aarde, the resident mixologist.

It turned out that he was free that afternoon; and this class on the first day of our stay ended up being one of our most enjoyable experiences in South Africa. Moreover, we became gin lovers forever.

FORAGING AT 12 APOSTLES

Angus van Aarde, officially bar manager but in reality part chemist and part entertainer, met us at the bar. We had just enough time to change clothes. So from seasoned flyer wearing yoga pants and a black shirt on an overnight Singapore Airlines flight, I’d metamorphosed into fashionable traveler in a slinky dress. I was ready for sunset cocktails on the terrace of of one of the best bars in Cape Town.

“I hope those shoes are comfortable for walking,” Angus said, by way of greeting, glancing at my sandals. I’d brought these precisely because they seemed perfect for a stylish summer in South Africa.

HOW TO MAKE GIN

“Aren’t we making gin?” I asked, confused. He nodded and said, “But first we must gather the ingredients for the gin, and they’re all on the mountain.”

Backtracking out of the bar, we climbed the walking trail winding around the base of the 12 Apostles mountain range. “We’re going to pick some of these fine bush plants to flavor your gin,” Angus said, identifying the edibles and clipping the branches of random plants as we walked along.

DANCE LIKE NO ONE’S WATCHING IN CAPE TOWN

Foraging is surprisingly satisfying. Yes, paradise can be a rocky terrain of edible foliage. After 30 minutes I was skipping up and down the mountain in my cocktail outfit. There is something about picking one’s own food that fuels creativity because I’d suddenly found my zone.

While we were on the mountain, the Leopard Bar team created a scene out of Architectural Digest for the next part of our private master class.

The center table facing the outdoor terrace featured glasses, bottles of gin, and plates of dried fruits and leaves displayed like art, along with our freshly harvested herbs. To top things off, the sun was setting at exactly that time and a local band was playing feel-good songs; it made me think of the colorful houses of the Bo-Kap neighborhood on a summer weekend.   

Then we were off to botanical nirvana, right there in the Leopard Bar. To start us off, Angus pointed to several ingredients and said: “We usually put these in our gin. But actually you can create new flavors for yourself.” We spent a good hour engrossed in experimenting with flavors; I wanted to capture the feeling of this perfect day in a bottle to take back home.

FLAVORS OF SOUTH AFRICA

Our original gin mixes completed, we headed to the Azure restaurant for a gastronomic dinner cooked by Chef Christo Pretorius and his team. The restaurant is known for its inventive cuisine of local ingredients and stylish plating and we were not disappointed.

We began with a platter of Saldanha Bay oysters and yellowfin tuna tartare. The chef partnered these with intriguing side dishes such as spaghetti of pickled sea lettuce and edamame beans. The Azure sommelier was ready too with glasses of Bouchard Finlayson sauvignon blanc reserve 2018 to wash down our seafood.

Then we had ostrich smoked in rooibos tea and drizzled with buchu herb oil and blackberry vinaigrette. Next came a duck that was served three ways: crispy duck breast, duck leg confit, and roast duck broth accompanied by slow roasted tomatoes and broccoli.

LAMB FROM THE KAROO REGION

The finale was a superb lamb loin inspired by the arid Karoo region, with harissa barbecue glaze and turmeric couscous on the side.

“We had a wonderful dinner,” I said to the maitre’d as we walked out of the restaurant at the end. “This can easily become a hard habit to break.”

The maitre’d smiled and replied: “Well, please make sure to join us for breakfast then. The weekend breakfast at 12 Apostles is a beloved Cape Town tradition.”

WEEKEND BRUNCH AT AZURE RESTAURTANT 

Intrigued, we heeded his suggestion and started our Saturday just like well-heeled locals in the know. When we reached the Azure restaurant, the terrace was already full save for a table in the shade because a local’s life here is meant to be lived under the sun. Fortunately, coming from bright lights and a big city, any table with a view was fine with us.

Table secured, we inspected the buffet, impressed by the feast that awaited us, including oysters in champagne buckets, plates of fresh berries, and sparkling wine to start. We had triples of everything and then we ordered Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon — our own beloved tradition for breakfast in every city we visit.

“We could make a tradition out of this, you know,” I said to my companion, without going into details because all at once I meant everything and anything, including the wonderful breakfasts, the movie nights at the hotel’s cozy theatre room, floating in the salt bath of the spa, and afternoons spent reading books by the pool. And until our next visit, we have our bottles of gin to remind us of this hotel by the sea in Cape Town.

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“This is a local favorite,” the waitress said, setting an elaborate stand of afternoon tea treats in front of us as we sat under the sun with a view of the Atlantic Ocean. She added: “Our chefs created originals — you won’t find these elsewhere.”

We had just landed in Cape Town that morning and from the airport we’d driven straight to the 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa for an early afternoon tea on the outdoor terrace without bothering to check in first.

SUMMER IN CAPE TOWN

The day was so fine and the ocean was calling out to us so we set aside the formalities for later. Also, we were eager to sit by the sea and to start our wonderful holiday at the edge of the world with a proper toast.

This was South Africa, after all, land of amazing nature and excellent wine, so drinks should always be within reach. Luckily a table was available; and soon flutes of sparkling wine and an ornate tray of treats arrived, just too beautiful to eat.

This experience, aptly named “Tea by the Sea” by the 12 Apostles came highly recommended and we were grateful we heeded someone’s advice.

AFTERNOON TEA AT THE 12 APOSTLES HOTEL & SPA

Even now, it gives me an adrenaline shot to write about this moment full of expectations at the very start of three amazing weeks in Africa. Everything was just perfect. The skies were clear and the sea was an intoxicating cerulean hue, and all around us were happy people celebrating something on a Friday at noon.

Perhaps they all had birthdays or anniversaries; or maybe Cape Townians do this all the time and need no excuses for a mid-day party ahead of the weekend. In any case, their joy was infectious, so by the time we’d put away our mobile phones, made the exuberant toasts and were ready to eat, I felt on top of the world in spite of the fact that I was geographically at the bottom of it.

AVOCADO SANDWICHES AT THE 12 APOSTLES

To break the ice between us and our elegant afternoon tea tray, from the tantalizing selections we chose the avocado sandwiches covered in crushed almonds. Perfectly formed, the initial mouthfuls of goodness left us wide-eyed with wonder.

The taste is simply impossible to describe; but we were in heaven and I’m sure the location had something to do with our elation as well.

We savored these rich finger sandwiches — crunchy on the outside and all mushy with avocado inside — as slowly as we could manage between sips of bubbly; and then we quickly ordered another round.

“Life is short and when else will we ever have these again?” My companion said, in the form of a rhetorical question. We both knew that I felt exactly the same way, and this is how we threw our calorie counts to the wind that afternoon at the 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa.

CLASSIC HOTEL BY THE SEA IN CAPE TOWN

There are many lovely places to stay in Cape Town, but the 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa is one of a handful that directly take you not only to a hotel of luxury, but also to a time of genteel and unrushed travel for a proper holiday. It’s a destination hotel full of quirks and personal touches; including winding corridors and narrow stairs that lead to picture-pretty landings.

Meanwhile, the interiors are about classic furniture, memorable art, stripes and flowery prints that create a country house atmosphere. Everything slowly grows on you so that eventually you feel like calling this hotel a home. Not a few guests return every year for this familiar and wonderful holiday.

DRIVING ALONG CHAPMAN’S PEAK

The main attractions are the ocean views, the famous 12 Apostles mountain range, and the nearby Chapman’s Peak Drive, one of the loveliest road trips in the world. These alone, along with the hotel’s wild garden of botanical, offer the perfect combination for down-time in Cape Town.

Here, you will wish for a book or sketchpad; or at least a playlist of your favorite music; once you sit down, you won’t want to get up, let alone go to the V&A Waterfront.

The need to have a busy sightseeing list will turn into a distant memory. Most guests at 12 Apostles purposely want to leave the world behind. So they end up enjoying what is in front of them instead of following the tourist trails around the city.

Read more about luxury hotels in South Africa in Travelife Magazine.

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