It was the perfect day for biking in Kyoto: sunny and cool, and we were at the Ritz Carlton Kyoto, which is right next to the Kamogawa River. The river has wide bicycle lanes on both sides. One turn into a side road, and then you’re already along the path on the banks of the Kamogawa River.

Moreover, the hotel rents out Panasonic electric bicycles. These are perfect for city biking and these also make any uphill climbs easy. The concierge team organizes two bike experiences every day, weather permitting. So hotel guests who book in advance can go before breakfast at 630 AM or after breakfast at 830 AM. We chose the latter, preferring to enjoy a relaxing meal prior to heading out.

WHERE TO GO BIKING IN KYOTO

“Where would you like to go?” Wakabayashi-san, our bicycle guide from the hotel, asked. She gave us several options including a ride through Gion, the old geisha and entertainment district of Kyoto. However the river called out to us. It’s not often once comes across a lovely river that’s made for biking and walking. So we asked for an itinerary that included a long ride along the river.

“There’s the lovely Shimogamo shrine just off the river,” Wakabayashi-san suggested. “It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and it’s very beautiful. We can bike all the way along the Kamogawa and then get onto the street just very near it.”

BIKING ALONG THE KAMOGAWA

That sounded like the exact tour itinerary we wanted. The trip took about 20 minutes along the Kamogawa from the Ritz Carlton Hotel. Once we got off the river bicycle lane, we entered a neighborhood with large trees and old houses. It was the kind of area I often imagine, whenever I think of Kyoto.

One of the houses in this neighborhood was the villa of the Mitsui family. We just passed by it on our way to the Shimogamo Shrine but it certainly looked impressive estate from the outside. I made a mental note to visit this on another trip.

Then we found ourselves passing through a wide clearing of tall trees that led to the shrine proper. The ride all the way to the spring was just so picturesque.

ABOUT THE SHIMOGAMO SHRINE

“There’s evidence that this shrine is over two thousand years old,” Wakabayashi-san said. Some archeologists scouring the forests around the shrine had apparently unearthed broken pieces of plates and arrowheads that date back to the Yayoi Period of 4 B.C.

The Shimogamo Shrine is also a great favorite of members of the Japanese Imperial Family through the centuries, as well as descendants of several famous Shogun. The Emperor Saga (809 – 823) is one of the Japanese emperors most closely associated with this shrine. It is also mentioned in The Tale of Genji, the famous epic story created by a court lady during the Heian era. This is one of my favorite books, by the way.

AWAY FROM TOURISTS IN KYOTO

For biking in Kyoto, the Shimogamo Shrine is ideal. It’s a famous landmark but it’s also the kind of place that is not quite on the tourist shortlist since Kyoto has so many temples. Nevertheless, it is as important and Instagram-worthy as the better known temples of the city. In fact, in many ways, a visit to Shimogamo Shrine is even more meaningful because it doesn’t feel as commercial or touristy compared to so many others.

So after a morning of exploration here, we biked back to the Ritz Carlton Kyoto along the same river, our hearts and minds full of what we had just seen. We thoroughly enjoyed biking in Kyoto. It’s a great way to explore this ancient city.

Read more about one of the best hotels in Granada and about biking in Kyoto in Travelife Magazine.

READ MORE ABOUT THE BEST HOTELS & RESORTS IN JAPAN

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The Ritz Carlton Kyoto is a sleek modern hotel on the banks of the Kamogawa River. It’s perfectly placed for sightseeing, business or simple leisure, especially with the river banks of Kyoto just in front. At the same time, the commercial heart of Kyoto and the famous Nishiki Market are just a few minutes’ walk away.

The hotel’s wood and concrete minimalist structure is also a wonderful backdrop for its excellent and ecelectic collection of art. Guests will experience a feast for the senses as they walk around the hotel. The art works are well curated so that there is a balance of theme and design. Moreover, none of the works stand out by themselves. Instead, they blend so seamlessly and beautifully with their surroundings that they enhance the atmosphere rather than steal the show.

Here are my favorite pieces from the art collection of the Ritz Carlton Kyoto:

The designers have placed this tile along the walls of the entrance. They also use this same motif, called Shippo, along the doors, bed headboards and carpets in the guest rooms. It’s mean to symbolize harmony in the form of seven treasures and the circle shape.

This glass sculpture actually encases a real wooden Biwa, which is a traditional Japanese musical instrument. This is the brainchild of a creative studio called Sandwich, located near the Uji River in Kyoto and host of various creative disciplines. Sandwich has a studio, offices and multidisciplinary spaces. However, it also has a kitchen and rooms where artists and other creatives can meet to discuss ideas and projects. This studio attracts artists from all over Japan, particularly young people seeking creative inspiration from others.

This is the only part of the original house of Baron Fujita standing in this prime location that has been incorporated into the Ritz Carlton Kyoto. Called Ebisugawa-tei, it’s now part of the Italian restaurant and very popular for private dinners and special intimate functions. The rooms, constructed in 1908, are done in the style that was fashionable during the Meiji era. This style incorporates the best of traditional Japanese design with Western comforts. So one will observe tatami mats, papered sliding doors, and intricately carved wooden beams. There is also a tokonoma with a scroll.

At the same time, the room has carpets and Western-style tables and chairs. This may sound like a strange mix to some until you actually set foot here and realize that everything works beautifully together in an elegant and yet comfortable way.

Read more about the Ritz-Carlton Kyoto in Travelife Magazine.

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When traveling with family, trying to balance key activities such as sightseeing and cultural experiences with more interactive work and fun is always a situation parents grapple with. Fortunately, some luxury hotels are so forward thinking about the challenges of family travel, especially in the pandemic and post-pandemic world, that they’ve done their homework for their guests.

EVERYTHING IS NEARBY IN KYOTO

The Ritz Carlton Kyoto is perfectly located for family holidays. Right on the banks of the Kamogawa River, it’s a short walk to the shopping areas and the historic sights. At the same time, the wonderful biking lane of Kyoto is literally under its nose, with a little path down. Guests can borrow a bicycle from the concierge team and head down a little path to enjoy one of the most pleasant biking experiences in Kyoto.

At the same time, the hotel management has brought in for guests some of the best guardians of Kyoto culture for some real hands-on immersive experiences. I can’t even begin to over-emphasize how enjoyable these are, even for adults, and how nicely they round out a family holiday in one of the most cultured cities of the world.

LEARNING THE CRAFTS OF JAPAN

During our stay at the Ritz Carlton Kyoto, we created rock gardens under the tutelage of a master traditional gardener. Then we learned how to make the famous Kyogashi sweets of Kyoto from a fifth generation sweets maker.

This set-up was especially appreciated during our visit, which was during the pandemic, and I suspect it will be a safe and preferred option of many families for some time to come. It allows you to have the best of all worlds. You can learn an ancient craft with a real professional without leaving the safety of the Ritz Carlton Kyoto.

HOW TO MAKE JAPANESE SWEETS

For our lesson, we headed to the basement where one of the smaller function rooms had been turned into a classroom for us. All the ingredients we needed for making Kyogashi were laid out prettily on the table, and our teacher, whose family runs a historic sweets shop patronized by tea ceremony practitioners, was well prepared to teach a foreign family the secrets of his family trade.

In all, we made four sweets each. Of course, as Japanese sweets are diametrically different from Western sweets, we needed a change of mindset to appreciate the nuances of these small but exquisitely made edible works of art made only with bean paste, sugar and flour. Where were the cream and butter we had grown so used to in the Western world? This new perspective was good not only for the children, but also for the adults.

SWEET ENDINGS TO LESSONS IN KYOTO

The Ritz Carlton Kyoto team thought of everything. At the end of the session, we each had beautiful boxes to place our creations in, so that we all felt we’d really made Kyogashi. There are many cultural experiences organized by luxury hotels around the world. However the ones that leave you with a feeling of cultural authenticity at the end are the ones worth booking. And worth traveling to Kyoto for.

READ MORE ABOUT THE CULTURAL EXPERIENCES AT THE RITZ CARLTON KYOTO

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Kyoto is for foodies. This city is awash with excellent traditional Japanese restaurants so standard are very high regarding cuisine. Among these, the Mizuki tempura restaurant of the Ritz Carlton Kyoto stands out for its unique ingredients, the lightness of its batter, and the fact that most of its tempura is better eaten plainly with salt.

HOW TO EAT TEMPURA

Most foreigners have this impression that all tempura should be eaten with tempura sauce, which is basically created with the liquid stock dash as a base. This is true for the average tempura restaurant in Japan and abroad. However, in reality, the best tempura are eaten with a touch of salt.

No sauce is needed because the good chefs believe that their tempura should be able to stand proudly based on the quality of ingredients and the method of frying alone. It’s true. The lighter the batter and the less oil in the tempura, the less you need any other condiment with it.

ABOUT THE MIZUKI RESTAURANT OF THE RITZ CARLTON KYOTO

This is the basis for the Michelin star that Mizuki received for its tempura. So during a stay at the Ritz Carlton Kyoto over the winter, we booked a table to try this world-class tempura, of course. As COVID-19 was and still is raging as I write, the restaurant was observing social distancing. Mizuki is a cozy eight-seater counter restaurant that is definitely on the fancy side, as far as tempura establishments. It’s all polished dark granite with an elegant industrial feel. The chef works just behind so that your meal is part entertainment, part gourmet delight.

THE BEST INGREDIENTS FOR TEMPURA

The experience starts off with the chef selecting the ingredients for your meal based on the menu you have chosen. Everything is laid out so perfectly on a wooden cutting board, ready for Instagram photos. Depending on when you go, there will be one or two ingredients that are not your usual tempura fare. But then again, this is no ordinary tempura restaurant either.

Nevertheless, fresh shrimps hold pride of place and the best is reserved for the beginning of the meal. The chef deftly cuts the heads off the shrimps and these heads are made into crunchy tempura. Again, not all tempura restaurants serve shrimp heads, but the best ones usually do. These are eaten with a little salt and nothing else — especially not tempura sauce which will quickly reduce the crunch factor, so purists regard anything but salt as sacrosanct.

THE VEGETABLES OF KYOTO

A succession of vegetables and seafood follows. Aside from shrimps, the scallops are especially delicious. As are the vegetables. Kyoto is famous for its good quality vegetables. In fact, they’re called “Kyo-yasai,” which literally means “Kyoto vegetables.” Japanese come from all over the country just to see the vegetables at the famous Nishiki Market of Kyoto, and many fine restaurants pride themselves in serving Kyoto vegetables. Mizuki’s chef too has made sure that diners experience the wow factor of this bounty for themselves.

Tempura meals are usually not long drawn out affairs because the frying time itself is quick and painless. But at Mizuki, the Michelin-starred chef takes his time. As a result, diners are able to truly appreciate the experience.

READ MORE ABOUT THE RITZ CARLTON KYOTO

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Children too are in for a treat when the family books the staycation package between December 18 and January 6. They’ll be receiving a special Christmas gift with a letter from Santa himself. To receive the Christmas gift from Santa, contact Ritz Carlton room reservations and mention Travelife. 

Room Reservation

Phone: +81 75 746 5511

Email: rc.ukyrz.reservation@ritzcarlton.com

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When the world outside is spinning uncontrollably in unfavorable directions, Eastern philosophers say the trick is to go inside yourself and create your own parallel universe. Here, in a little world of your making, you can edit and arrange everything as you wish so that your world will be perfect. Having your own universe of happiness will enable you to tackle the trials and tribulations of real life.

At no time has this life philosophy or coping strategy been more necessary than now. Most of the world continues to grapple with the coronavirus pandemic and the future remains uncertain. It is in times exactly like these that you must have a retreat you can always escape to. It is a haven when reality becomes too unbearable.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN ZEN ROCK GARDEN

It is was this spirit of creating a perfect world that we signed up for a private session with Suzuki-san, the master gardener of the Ritz Carlton Kyoto. Within the safety of the hotel, and yet with views of Kyoto all around, we learned to make our own Zen garden.

This hands-on tutorial is just one of the many unique guest experiences this hotel offers to guests wishing to experience Japan from another dimension. Of course, it’s always nice to sightsee and to learn about Kyoto from a visual viewpoint. But it definitely goes one dimension deeper, to sit with a master and create an artwork next to him.

ABOUT THE ZEN GARDENS OF KYOTO

Kyoto, too, is known around the world for its Zen gardens. The most beautiful Zen gardens in the world are minutes away from the Ritz Carlton Kyoto. These include the rock garden of the Ryoanji Temple, the Shogun garden of the Ginkakuji Temple, and the moss garden of the Saihoji Temple. The rock garden of the Tenryuji Temple is also considered one of the best in Japan.

At the same time, the hotel even has its own Zen garden on the ground floor for inspiration. Suzuki-san, the master gardener, maintains this Zen garden by redrawing the lines in the sand every ten days.

CULTURAL ACTIVITIES FOR HOTEL GUESTS OF THE RITZ CARLTON KYOTO

So Kyoto is the perfect venue to learn the art of making a Zen garden, and the Ritz Carlton Kyoto is the best luxury venue for a session with instant impact, learning from the best.

At the start, Suzuki-san said: “A Japanese garden is a combination of moss, rocks and white stones. The creator uses these in a balance to recreate the beauty of Japan’s natural world while creating a tranquil retreat for the mind.”

Finally it was time to start. In front of me was a wide ceramic dish and within reaching distance were bags of soil, a table of rocks, a tray of moss and bags of white sand. I asked Suzuki-san: “Where do I begin?”

HOW TO CREATE YOUR OWN WORLD

“After looking at some examples, please create something with your free thought,” Suzuki-san replied. “There is no correct or wrong way. Follow your inspiration to create your own world with mountains out of rocks, earth out of moss, and terrain out of white sand.”

Suzuki-san showed me the rock garden he had made, with rocks as mountains placed to one side. It was very beautiful. However, I decided to do something different. I placed a large mound of soil in the center of the plate and placed a nice grouping of rocks on top of it.

“That looks more like an American mountain scene,” everyone around me commented. To which I replied: “Actually, I was thinking of the hills of China.”

ELEMENTS OF A TRADITIONAL JAPANESE ROCK GARDEN

Meanwhile, the workshop itself was so enjoyable. Midway, I was already in my zone and considering a serious career change from magazine editor to Zen landscape gardener. Creating something with one’s hands is always deeply satisfying, after all. Furthermore, the interaction with nature and the embodiment of the principles of Zen in this case, as I advanced into the creative stage further enhanced the experience on a spiritual level.

Making my own Zen rock garden proved very therapeutic. It was indeed a way to escape the reality of the large world, and to create a much bigger world from inside my mind via a blue dish in front of me. This represented my universe at that very moment, and it was perfect. As was my Kyoto holiday at the Ritz Carlton Kyoto.

Read more about the best hotels and resorts in Japan in Travelife Magazine.

THESE HOTELS ARE OPEN IN SPITE OF COVID-19

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