The enchanting homes of Geoffrey Bawa and his brother Bevis Bawa in Sri Lanka belong on the bucket list of every lover of architecture, design, and tropical modernism. Over the course of several journeys through Sri Lanka, I became increasingly captivated by Geoffrey Bawa’s world — a visionary whose influence shaped the very identity of South Asian architecture.
For an entire generation, he has stood as the region’s most revered creative force, and even today, no younger talent has emerged to challenge the extraordinary legacy or quiet genius he left behind.
As a lifelong lover of the arts and all things beautiful, I make it a point to revisit Geoffrey Bawa’s masterpieces every time I travel to Sri Lanka. My personal “Ground Zero” is always his former office and design studio — now the iconic Paradise Road The Gallery Café — a place that still hums with the quiet artistry of Bawa’s vision.
Today, it has become one of Colombo’s most fashionable cafés and design boutiques, drawing expatriates, stylish locals, and curious travelers. The food is consistently delightful, but it’s the contemporary art, homeware, and Sri Lankan crafts on display — all exquisitely curated — that make it one of the most inspiring places to shop and linger in the city.
HOTELS DESIGNED BY GEOFFREY BAWA
Geoffrey Bawa’s hotels and private residences remain some of the most timeless works of tropical modernism in the world. Even decades after they were built, his properties continue to set the benchmark for Sri Lankan architecture — effortless, intimate, and seamlessly connected to nature.
The Heritance Kandalama in Dambulla, located just a few kilometers from the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sigiriya, is widely considered his masterpiece. I’ve stayed here so many times that I’ve long lost count. Yes, the hotel has aged. However, its design still feels astonishingly fresh — a linear sculpture carved into the cliffside, wrapped in vines, and overlooking sweeping reservoirs and jungle plains. It remains, without question, one of my favorite places in Sri Lanka simply for its views and its ingenious sense of place.
But Bawa’s artistry stretches across the island. In Galle, the iconic Jetwing Lighthouse sits dramatically above a wild, wave-lashed coastline — a bold interplay of stone, sea, and sky. Further south along the coast, the Heritance Ahungalla showcases Bawa’s serene beachfront vision. Think clean lines, open courtyards, and breezy spaces that catch the salt air and golden light of the Indian Ocean.
ABOUT LUNUGANGA
The hotels shaped by Geoffrey Bawa remain some of the most beautiful design retreats of their era, and many continue to operate today as impeccably maintained luxury escapes. Heritance Kandalama may be the most celebrated of the “Geoffrey Bawa hotels,” but it is Lunuganga, in my opinion, that offers the most intimate window into the architect’s mind.
Lunuganga was Bawa’s cherished private estate—a living sketchbook where he experimented, revised, and reimagined right up until his passing in 1998. What began as a simple plantation property evolved over decades into a sprawling meditation on landscape, form, and light, and today it stands as one of Sri Lanka’s most important sources of architectural inspiration.
Reaching Lunuganga requires a journey through quiet countryside between Colombo and Galle. In earlier years, visiting was something of an adventure in itself. The estate functioned loosely as a hotel but with unpredictable hours. Sometimes the staff would be present, and at other times the grounds seemed to slip into a dreamy stillness. Despite this lack of structure, Lunuganga was unmissable even then. After all, this was Geoffrey Bawa’s masterpiece for himself—his personal sanctuary.
On several trips to Sri Lanka, I found myself driving from Galle to Lunungaga. I went through narrow rural roads, past rice paddies and drifting water buffalo, only to arrive at Lunuganga and discover the gates closed with a padlock. The website might have listed it as open, but the estate often followed its own rhythm, welcoming visitors when it pleased. Yet even these unpredictable encounters became part of its allure. This was an estate that felt alive, moody, and wonderfully human, just like the man who created it.
GEOFFREY BAWA’S HOME IN SRI LANKA
Fortunately, those difficult days are over. Lunuganga is now managed by Teardrop Hotels, a well-known luxury group in Sri Lanka. The estate finally has the consistent care and attention it always needed. Guests can now stay in Geoffrey Bawa’s country home and enjoy its art, antiques, and peaceful views without worrying about erratic schedules or sudden closures.
The property feels refreshed but still true to Bawa’s spirit. It is cleaner, better maintained, and easier to visit. For me, this change is wonderful. Lunuganga has always been one of the most beautiful places in Sri Lanka, and it deserved proper management. I am very happy that it now has a team that understands its value. I look forward to returning soon and seeing how the estate has improved under Teardrop Hotels.
Some say the gardens at Lunuganga began with a touch of sibling rivalry. Geoffrey Bawa’s brother, Bevis, had already been shaping the landscape of his own estate since 1929, giving him a significant head start. By the 1940s, Geoffrey decided to create something of his own. Therefore, he purchased a larger property along the Bentota River to design a garden that reflected his vision.
The two estates sit not far from each other, and visiting both offers a fascinating look at how differently the brothers expressed their talents. Their contrasting styles create one of the most rewarding day trips from either Colombo or Galle. I highly recommend this, especially for travelers interested in architecture, garden design, and Sri Lanka’s cultural heritage.
HISTORY OF LUNUGANGA AND THE BRIEF
Sri Lankans who follow the country’s cultural and artistic circles are well aware of the long-running creative rivalry between Geoffrey Bawa and his brother Bevis. Their friendly competition lives on today through the homes they left behind. Lunuganga, Geoffrey’s beloved estate, is now famous as the ultimate expression of his vision. But Bevis Bawa’s home, The Brief, is just as captivating in its own way.
Bevis, a gifted landscape architect, shaped The Brief into a lush, intimate world of paths, sculptures, and tropical greenery. Its atmosphere and aesthetics contrast sharply with Lunuganga’s grander, more architectural approach. Yet both estates remain essential pilgrimages for design lovers. These are very different interpretations of beauty, created by two remarkable brothers.
THE BRIEF IN SRI LANKA
Bevis Bawa named his estate The Brief in honor of their father’s triumphant legal victory that financed the land purchase. It is a vivid reflection of Bevis’s own temperament. The property feels untamed and instinctive. You’ll find lush pathways threading through thick jungle greenery. Then, unexpected bursts of tropical color. Finally, quiet corners where the garden seems to breathe on its own.
Bevis was not only a landscape architect but also an irrepressible creative soul. He collected art with gusto, filling his home with an eclectic mix of paintings, sculptures, and curiosities. His most distinctive pieces—homoerotic sculptures crafted by artist friends and admirers—still stand throughout the estate and gardens today. They give The Brief an unmistakable personality: bold, unapologetic, and wonderfully alive.
Whenever I visit The Brief, I find myself drawn to a quiet corner of the garden. I imagined the extraordinary house parties that once unfolded here—gatherings full of artists, writers, travelers, and wandering free spirits from around the world. The estate feels steeped in stories, as if fragments of laughter and conversation still echo through the foliage.
And, truly, the more you see of both estates, the clearer it becomes that Lunuganga and The Brief never needed to compete. Each expresses a different creative heartbeat. On one hand, Geoffrey Bawa’s disciplined architectural poetry. On the other hand, Bevis Bawa’s wild, instinctive artistry.
If your travels allow, visit both. Together, they form one of Sri Lanka’s most inspiring journeys into design, culture, and imagination.
Exploring Lunuganga and The Brief is one of the most rewarding design experiences in Sri Lanka. Each estate offers a different vision and lesson in creativity. For travelers planning a cultural or architectural itinerary through Sri Lanka, visiting both homes provides a deeper appreciation of the country’s artistic heritage. And, of course, of the remarkable brothers who shaped it.
Read more stories about the best places for design lovers in Sri Lanka and also about one of the most unique places to stay in Spain in Travelife Magazine.
Some photos of Lununganga are from the Teardrop Hotels collection
