The first thing you notice is the quiet. Not silence — Hanoi doesn’t do silence — but a particular hush that takes hold the moment you step through the entrance of the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi. Ceiling fans turn overhead. The marble stays cool even in the heat. Outside, motorbikes. In here, something that feels borrowed from a different century.
Which is fitting, because a different century is more or less what you’re standing in.

Graham Greene stayed in this building in 1951, working as a correspondent for Paris Match. He wrote The Quiet American here. Somerset Maugham came in 1923 and finished The Gentleman in the Parlour in the parlor — the room, the book title; it was that kind of era.

Charlie Chaplin honeymooned here in 1936 with Paulette Goddard, after they married in Shanghai. The hotel named suites after all three of them. The concierge at the Bamboo Bar will make you a Graham Greene martini, and it’s worth having one just to sit with the absurdity of that for a moment.

From Historic Hotel in Hanoi to

Luxury Hacienda and Wedding Venue in Spain

Inspired by the timeless elegance of Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi? Continue your journey at La Esperanza Granada, an award-winning romantic hacienda surrounded by olive groves and mountain views in southern Spain.

DISCOVER LA ESPERANZA GRANADA PRIVATE ESTATE IN SPAIN

The Sofitel Metropole Hanoi: One of Asia’s Most Historic Hotels

The Metropole opened in 1901, built by two French entrepreneurs — Gustave-Émile Dumoutier and André Ducamp — just as Hanoi was becoming the capital of French Indochina. Six dollars a night got you a room, three meals, and the run of what was immediately the finest hotel in the city.

Within a few years it was also the first place in Indochina to screen motion pictures.

For the next several decades, the hotel served as the social center of colonial Hanoi — the place diplomats ate, writers worked, and anyone passing through with money or influence made a point of stopping. The guest list was not subtle: Ho Chi Minh hosted political meetings here. Fidel Castro stayed. Presidents Bush, Clinton, and Trump all came through at various points in history.

In February 2019, the hotel hosted a two-day nuclear summit between the United States and North Korea; Kim Jong Un took an entire floor.

That breadth — colonial French society to Cold War summits to 21st-century diplomacy — is what makes the Metropole unusual. Most historic hotels claim heritage. This one has receipts.

The Bunker Beneath the Bamboo Bar

The war years left a more physical mark. During the American bombing campaigns of 1972 and 1973, the hotel sheltered journalists, diplomats, Joan Baez, and Jane Fonda in an underground bunker below the building.

When the war ended, the bunker was sealed and eventually forgotten entirely. It was only rediscovered in 2011, when engineers renovating the Bamboo Bar jack-hammered through 280 millimetres of reinforced concrete and found a network of flooded corridors and chambers. Baez apparently sang one night while sheltering down there. The hotel has a partial recording. The bunker is now part of the daily Path of History tour.

From Government Guesthouse to Luxury Landmark

After independence, the hotel was renamed Thong Nhat — “Reunification Hotel” — and operated as a government guesthouse. By the 1980s the building had deteriorated badly. Its revival came through an unlikely figure: a French hotelier named Jacques Herbert, who happened to have married the daughter of Ho Chi Minh’s first finance minister. He negotiated what became Vietnam’s first successful joint venture between a foreign company and a local partner.

The Metropole reopened in 1992 under the Pullman name, later passing to Sofitel. In 2009 it became the world’s first Sofitel Legend property.

Two Wings, Two Eras — Heritage vs. Opera Wing

The hotel now has 358 rooms across two buildings that share a courtyard but not much else in atmosphere.

The Heritage Wing — the 1901 original — has dark hardwood floors, louvred shutters, vintage illustrations on the walls, and art-deco marble bathrooms. Meanwhile, the Opera Wing, added in 1996, is neoclassical and considerably quieter, with higher ceilings and larger rooms. Families and people on work trips tend to end up there. People who want to feel like they’re somewhere specific book the Heritage Wing.

About the Coffee a Bartender Invented During Wartime

Le Spa du Metropole was named Vietnam’s Best Hotel Spa at the 2026 Tatler awards. The signature treatment is a Kansu bowl massage, and French skincare lines SOTHYS and Anne Semonin cover the facial menu. There is a heated outdoor pool in the garden courtyard.

The six restaurants and bars include Le Beaulieu, which boasts of serious French cooking, and La Terrasse. The latter is a pavement café where the thing to order is Vietnamese egg coffee.

The Vietnamese egg coffee has its own Metropole origin story. In 1946, with milk impossible to find during wartime rationing, a hotel bartender named Mr. Giang started using whipped egg yolk instead. The result — thick, sweet, served over strong Robusta — is now one of Hanoi’s most copied drinks. You can still get it where it was invented.

What the Condé Nast Traveler Triple Crown Actually Means

This year, Condé Nast Traveler gave the Metropole what it calls the “Triple Crown” — a simultaneous listing on the Hot List, the Gold List, and the Readers’ Choice Awards. Only 396 hotels in the world have achieved all three.

Travel + Leisure has had it on the 500 Best Hotels list for six years running. Neither publication gives those distinctions out lightly, and neither readership is easily impressed.

READ MORE ABOUT THE BEST HOTELS IN THE WORLD IN TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE

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I had decided on the spur of the moment to go back to Vietnam to eat my way through Saigon. It was hot and sultry in late August, and I was in a state of constant dripping-dampness. It was a tad bothersome, but what the heck, we eat humidity for breakfast in the Philippines.

The flavours of Vietnam

As humid as Vietnam is at this time of the year, the food and flavors are always fresh everywhere you eat. Vietnam is a great Asian street food country in the vein of Taiwan, Singapore, and Thailand. 

In fact, I think Vietnamese cuisine is all about street food, the only difference being the relative comfort and price of the eating venues you choose.

Where to eat street food in Saigon

You could be in a relatively expensive air-conditioned Brad Pitt-frequented restaurant; or you could be on sidewalks or in markets, standing or seated on low colored plastic chairs or folding metal stools, spending mere shekels for a thoroughly satisfying meal.

Yes, they do have Western restaurants and fast food joints in Saigon, but these would be an absolute waste of calorie-count unless you are in desperate need of a pizza or mediocre French food.

When in Vietnam on a food trip, you must eat as the Vietnamese do. You will not go wrong with the multitude of freshly-cooked seafood, grilled chicken or pork, meat-laced pho, or sun-ripened fruits and farm-fresh
vegetables, all of which are outstanding.

BEST STREET FOOD PLACES IN SAIGON

• Ben Thanh Market
• Binh Tay Market
• Banh Xeo 46A
• Phan Van Han Street
• Vin Khanh Street
• Quan Thuy

Conscious of time but not of our waistlines, we made it a point to stop anywhere the food smelled and looked good: sidewalk vendors with food carts or baskets, any kind of market, and of course, night markets, food streets, and restaurants.

Lucky for us, every place we tasted was worth discovering. Read more about traveling around Vietnam in Travelife Magazine.

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Danang is the largest city in Central Vietnam, located along golden My Khe beach. Most tourists know it only as a gateway to the more famous ancient towns of Hue and Hoi An, so few bother to spend time here except to drive through the city on the way to the international airport.

However, in Danang recently for a few days, we realized that this city is way more than a stopover. In fact, it’s a great destination for a food trip. The large variety of restaurants and markets make this a proper foodie destination.

Moreover, because of its royal heritage, Central Vietnam has a cuisine that’s quite different from both the North or South. So it’s unique even for food-loving travelers who have visited Ho Chi Minh or Hanoi.

THE PROMENADE OF DANANG

So off we went on our first day to do what we have always done best. We went for a long walk to see where Fate would lead us. Strolling at an easy pace along the beach, we saw fishermen sitting by the ocean and surfers out in the water catching the messy waves of the season.

Meanwhile, couples were having drinks on the beach and both old and young were enthusiastically using the public exercise machines set up right by the boardwalk. In other words, the city was alive, and its energy was infectious, giving us a happy buzz. Our three-hour walk allowed us time to breathe in the fresh ocean breeze and to think about our trip. Danang was the tail-end of our holiday, and the best moments were passing by too quickly into memories.

NGON VILLA IN DANANG

For dinner, delicious local food is available at a variety of cafes and street stalls. We reserved one evening for a meal at Ngon Villa, which is supposed to be the best restaurant in Danang. It’s currently the #1 restaurant in Danang, in terms of popularity, according to TripAdvisor.com. Of course, we had to try it out.

This restaurant is located in a large house in a trendy neighbourhood in Danang. It looks graceful and elegant from the outside, but inside the restaurant is very lively. It has an open kitchen and two floors for diners. Apparently it’s full every night.

ORDER ALL YOU CAN AT NGON VILLA IN DANANG

The food here is really of good quality for the price charged. Ngon Villa offers a unique order-all-you-can dining menu for a set price, and the range of dishes covers delicacies from all over Vietnam. With a nice bottle of wine and musicians playing on a terrace covered in lanterns, we ended our day on a high note with a delicious meal here. It was really a nice way of trying a wide variety of Vietnamese dishes for a fixed price.

A DIFFERENT KIND OF DELICIOUS

The next day, we were up for more food adventure. However, this time, we made up our minds to eagerly explore the street food scene in Danang. For this, we headed downtown where every street has at least one busy food stall. These stalls are easily recognizable by the open space before them, set up with small plastic tables and stools.

With a nice bottle of wine and musicians playing on a terrace covered in lanterns, we ended our day on a high note with a delicious meal here. It was really a nice way of trying a wide variety of Vietnamese dishes for a fixed price.

You’ll find typical street food everywhere, just by walking around. The vendors are all offering one of these three options: the ubiquitous pho noodle soup, chicken rice or bahn mi, which is the Vietnamese version of a sandwich. Spoiled for choice, we headed for a street food set-up that received rave reviews online.

We chose a casual restaurant that operated out of a garage. It had simple tables and a bright color scheme. So it might be considered the Michelin three-star equivalent of a street food stall. We were even given disposable wet towels, after all.

Here, in the luxury version of a street food stall, we decided to get a little bit of everything. We particularly relished the tasty pho noodle soup. It’s so interesting how we never got tired of having pho twice a day on each day of our trip.

COFFEE CULTURE IN VIETNAM

At the end of the evening we stopped at a pretty cafe along a quiet street. Cafes are part of Danang’s culture and we’d seen so many attractive cafes as we rode in cars and taxis through the city. However, we hadn’t actually set foot in one yet. So we thought that our last evening would be most appropriate time to finally drink a proper Vietnamese coffee in one of them.

MORE ON VIETNAM : Take this sunset cruise in Hoi An

Every Vietnamese cafe has its own charm so it’s hard to decide on where to go. We actually ended up in our choice quite spontaneously by liking the look of the gardens from outside. This was the first café with a proper garden that we had seen so far.

Then we noticed how groups of people were happily sitting around, giving it a nice vibe. We found a table under a parasol in front of a pond with koi fish, surrounded by plants. Here we sat for the rest of the evening, discussing all the wonderful things we had seen so far in Danang

Read more about the best restaurants in Vietnam in Travelife Magazine.

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We reached the UNESCO World Heritage town of Hoi An just in time for dinner by the river at the Anantara Hoi An. We’d booked a stay here as it is one of the best hotels within the Old Town. It’s near enough for walking in and out and yet secluded enough for a holiday.

ABOUT THE BEST HOTEL IN HOI AN

To truly experience Hoi An at close range, the Anantara Hoi An is the perfect choice. It’s a combination of home-grown hospitality, comfortable rooms, and a unique location. We could reach everywhere on foot and also enjoy some tranquility when needed. The latter is especially nice as the hotel offers early morning yoga lessons; so travelers can combine culture and history with wellness and relaxation.

THE ROOMS AT THE ANANTARA HOI AN

The hotel is compact by international resort standards but it’s amazingly spacious for central Hoi An. We had a river view room with an outdoor terrace. We had an indoor living room and a bathroom as well that felt positively luxurious. All of 40 square meters right next to the river, the room offered simple and refined contemporary interiors.

The Anantara Hoi An is a combination of home-grown hospitality, comfortable rooms, and a unique location. We could reach everywhere on foot and also enjoy some tranquility when needed.

YOGA SESSIONS IN VIETNAM

Every day, our favorite ritual was to cross the garden and attend the 7 AM yoga session. Then we always headed on to Lanterns, the hotel’s colonial-style venue, for a buffet breakfast with wholesome offerings. We always spent hours just enjoying breakfast on the terrace, with a view of the river.

Perhaps the managers are enthusiasts for good eating, because the cereal and yoghurt topping assortment was a health buff’s dream. The fresh juices, too, were what we needed for a morning detox. And if we felt like it, there were also local Vietnamese delicacies as well.

Consequently, we often lingered at breakfast far longer than expected. And we always saved the traditional Vietnamese pho noodle soup for last, which was interesting as this was also often the first course of our lunch. 

Yes, in spite of our long breakfasts, we never missed lunch. Central Vietnam is a foodie destination so we always looked forward to each meal. So after a walk around town, we always wander back to Hoi An Riverside for spring rolls and bahn mi.

ELEGANT DINING VENUE IN HOI AN

The riverside restaurant of the Anantara Hoi An was also our venue for a relaxing dinner. At night, the terrace becomes an elegant space. The menu changes too, so we were always happy to eat here every evening and savor grilled seafood an local dishes over a bottle of wine.  

So this was where we inevitably ended up on our last evening in Hoi An, having grown accustomed to discussing the events of each day over a delicious meal at this restaurant that was so conducive for talking and plain enjoyment.

SUNSET CRUISE IN HOI AN

“What did you like best so far?” My companion asked me one day over a meal. The answer was easy. I replied: “I really liked the sunset cruise down the river.”

Just before dinner on one evening, you see, we‘d booked the hotel boat for a sail. There are many cruise options in Hoi An, but we liked the hotel’s long tail boat and the privacy at sunset.

LUXURY RIVER BOAT

Happily, the concierge suggested ordering appetizers for our sail as well. Of course, we were only too happy to comply with any ideas for food. What a surprise awaited us too. When we reached the boat, which is usually docked just in front of the hotel, a veritable feast awaited. Our attendant had laid out a spread of savory and sweet delicacies for the Vietnamese afternoon tea onboard.

So we’d rearranged the giant cushions at the front and poured ourselves some champagne while setting the tray of goodies between us, to experience Hoi An at sunset in truly unforgettable style.

Read more about traveling to Hoi An in Travelife Magazine.

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Cycling legend enjoys Vietnam

The two-day race featured contrasting compelling elements. On the first day, cyclists pedalled in the Bach Ma Laguna Challenge, which took place in Bach Ma National Park.

The next day riders vied for supremacy by the Gran Fondo Hue route. After passing through some of Vietnam’s most beautiful scenery, the race concluded in Hue, in front of the city’s citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

That was Evans’ first visit to Vietnam. Then he left the country, entranced by his experiences.

“I had been looking forward to riding in Vietnam. And I have to say I was blown away by the experience,” he said. “From a rider’s perspective it is totally unique. One minute you are cycling on flat roads past rice paddies and water buffalo; the next you are climbing up mountains covered in pristine jungle. It was really exhilarating.”

What’s great about Laguna Lang Co

The cycling wasn’t the only thing Evans loves about Vietnam. Along with other competitors, he bedded down at Laguna Lang Co, a main sponsor of the Coupe De Hue. During his stay, Evans gained an appreciation for another of Vietnam’s most potent drawcards: its legendary hospitality.

“The people in Vietnam are second to none,” he said. “For anyone looking for a unique destination for a cycling holiday, I can’t recommend the place highly enough.”

Active adventure in Vietnam

Evans’ endorsement is a boost for Laguna Lang Co; as well as Coupe de Hue supporter, leading inbound adventure travel operator Indotrek as they help Central Vietnam become a mecca for active adventure in Asia.

In addition to its support to Coupe De Hue, Laguna Lang Co developed other experiences for cyclists and other adventure seekers.

About the Bach Ma Laguna Challenge

Guests can ride climbs such as the famed Hai Van Pass or enter the next Bach Ma Laguna Challenge. Alternatively there is the flat fast circuit around picturesque Lap An Lagoon Lang Co. Many non-cycling activities also also include hiking, sea kayaking, and ATV and PWC safaris.

“We were delighted by the success of this year’s Coupe de Hue,” said Les Walters, Director of Activities at Laguna Lang Co. “The fact that it went so smoothly and was such a hit with riders — including with a racing legend like Cadel Evans who knows a great cycling destination when he sees one — really helps us to promote the area and showcase its natural beauty and incredible potential for active tourism.”

“As the Coupe de Hue showcased, Central Vietnam is a real hotspot for cycling and adventure travel,” said Adam de Lancey, Brand Manager at Indotrek, which played a leading role in organizing this year’s Coupe de Hue. With tougher rides complimented by simpler rides around destinations like Hoi An and Hue, there’s something for every ability.”

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On a recent stay at the Pullman Danang Beach Resort in Vietnam, we signed up for cocktail making classes. Of course the resort has so many other interesting activities such as tai chi classes and energy classes, as well as cooking lessons. It also has a beautiful spa with a steam bath, sauna and jacuzzi.

Then there was our gorgeous beachside villa. Just staying in the villa was enough of a relaxing holiday since we had an open-air living room that looked out directly to the sea. It was so nice just to sit here and feel the breeze.

MAKING COCKTAILS AT THE PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT IN VIETNAM

But neither of us had ever made cocktails before so we thought making cocktails would be lots of fun. We were not disappointed. The class was fun. And it was even more enjoyable that we ended our class with delicious cocktails.

We met our “teacher” at the lobby bar at 3 PM. When we arrived, we found a very interesting “classroom.” There was a counter nicely laid out with different kinds of liquor, glasses and equipment. I saw a cocktail shaker and different martini glasses.

We made beautiful cocktails with the theme of Danang. This was most appropriate as we had just enjoyed a wonderful holiday in Danang, and it was our last day.

FLIGHTS FROM HONG KONG TO DANANG ON CATHAY DRAGON

The next morning, we were flying to Hong Kong on Cathay Dragon, the regional airline of Cathay Pacific. Cathay Dragon operates flights directly between Danang and Hong Kong in approximately 90 minutes.

After the class, we took our cocktails out to the beach. Relaxing on lounge chairs and looking out onto the sea, we toasted to a truly enjoyable holiday in Vietnam that officially ended that same day with a stay at the Pullman Danang Beach Resort.

The Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an AccorHotels property. Read more about luxury hotels in Vietnam in Travelife Magazine.

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We had just arrived at the resort when we found out that it was the night for the full moon festival of Loi Krathong. Of course, we decided to have delicious Thai food instead of Vietnamese food. It was important to celebrate this annual Siamese festival.

ABOUT THE THAI FESTIVAL OF LOI KRATHONG

Thai people observe the festival of Loi Krathong to release the bad things of the year and to bring in more good luck for the next twelve months. Oftentimes, it involves discarding old clothes and other items that are not useful anymore. This is to symbolise the act of throwing out all negativity as well as releasing the things and memories that do not serve us anymore.

In hindsight, I wish I had known more about Loi Krathong before our dinner at Saffron. It was a good opportunity to think about things and situations I wished to forget. We all keep some of these things and situations in our minds, and there really is no use for these anymore.

DELICIOUS THAI FOOD AT SAFFRON AT THE BANYAN TREE LANG CO

However, the meal itself was so wonderful. So maybe this is why I completely forgot to think about the significance of Loi Krathong. Saffron is the signature restaurant of the Banyan Tree Resorts and it is famous for its delicious Thai food.

When we arrived at Saffron, a lady in a Thai dress welcomed us with wreaths of flowers for Loi Krathong. We were asked to light the candles on these wreaths.

Then we set these afloat on the pond next to the restaurant. Fortunately, at this time, I remembered to make an intention to forget the past and to make a wish for the future.

A GASTRONOMIC MEAL IN VIETNAM

Having observed Loi Krathong in our own way, we sat down for a wonderful eight-course meal of delicious Thai food. The dishes prepared by the lady chef of Saffron were the kinds not usually seen in typical Thai restaurants. Everything was special and ever so beautifully plated.

DIFFERENT KINDS OF RICE

My favourite was the main course of delicately seasoned fish. The fish was served with rice that came in clay pots in a wagon. I was at first surprised when I saw the wagon of clay pots being wheeled to our table.

Then the wait staff said: “We have six different kinds of rice for you. Please choose which ones you would like to try.” Of course, we tried everything, including a healthy rice, rice flavoured with saffron and another kind of rice flavoured with herbs.

HAPPY ENDINGS AT THE BANYAN TREE

To end the meal, we had a medley of desserts. Here, the traditional Thai dessert of mango with sticky rice was served. It was lovely, and this meal at Saffron at the Banyan Tree Lang Co was certainly a wonderful way to celebrate Loi Krathong and to bring in more good luck into my Travelife.

Read more about our adventures in central Vietnam in an upcoming issue of Travelife Magazine.

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NGON VILLA: THE BEST RESTAURANT IN DANANG

THE BEST VALUE RESTAURANT IN DANANG

ORIGINAL COCKTAILS IN VIETNAM

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I’ve stayed in some of the world’s loveliest luxury hotels. But nothing so far prepared me for the explosion of color, design and inspirations of the six-star The Reverie Saigon. 

ABOUT THE REVERIE SAIGON

The Reverie Saigon took seven years to create. For a long time it was Vietnam’s most talked about hotel. Simply put, it is over the top in an indescribable way that will almost certainly disorient you at the outset.

This hotel has such an incredible variety of decor and accent pieces that you do not know where to look first. A multicolored artsy chandelier of glass flowers and crystal covered pendant lights is literally sprawled on the ceiling of the ground floor lobby. Incidentally, this lobby is decked out in blue and white Italian marble, and it has inlaid walls.

GLAMOROUS INTERIORS

Then, just off the lobby are the elevators. The elevators of The Reverie Saigon are covered floor-to-ceiling in amber. These take you up to the reception floor where antique clocks, two-storey high mosaic masterpieces, and the largest sofa seat I have ever seen – ornately carved, gilded in gold and upholstered in purple velvet – await.

This is just the tip of the iceberg, too – to use a cliché. There are modern art pieces, classical antiques, Chinese furniture, whimsical sculptures, ornate décor, contemporary objets d’art, and even a touch of Islamic influence all in one place. Oh yes, and wherever I looked, I saw gold in all forms, surfaces and textures.

A PALACE IN VIETNAM

This is Vietnam’s version of a 21st century Versailles. Except it’s open to discerning travelers willing to pay for the experience.

INSPIRATION FROM EVERYWHERE

“This must be the work of a designer gone mad,” I told myself. I was literally unable to keep my jaw from dropping as I walked to the counter at one end of the cavernous hall to check in.

I added to myself: “Or, actually, it’s probably the work of a dozen designers gone mad.”

BEAUTY IN DISUNITY IN THE BEST HOTEL IN HO CHI MINH

Disunity figured everywhere I looked. There were influences from every period and school of design. Much of it was from Italy, although in different styles. So initially it really did look like a collaboration between designers who did not actually work together.

Later on, I realized that I was not too far from the truth. The hotel is also a showcase for the works of 13 Italian design firms including Giorgetti, B&B Italia, Baldi, Cassina, Grifoni, Visionnaire, and Colombostile.

THE MAGIC FORMULA

Of course, this visual feast was quite disconcerting when I first walked into The Reverie Saigon. Especially as I am more used to hotels and resorts with sleek and seamless designs that are ever so easy on the eyes.

Interestingly, this seeming lack of a concept was actually a concept in the end. And it worked like a magic potion. It took me several hours to get used to the deliberate haphazardness of design. 

A REAL LUXURY HOLIDAY

But once my eyes grew accustomed to the blaze of styles and colors, I ended up loving it. I don’t think I’m ever going to redecorate my home as a result of these influences. but for a few wonderful days staying in the hotel’s club floor, I was pampered beyond imagination, and I enjoyed an amazing multi-sensory experience unlike any other.

And isn’t that really what a holiday should sometimes be about?

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