In the middle of a sweltering August afternoon, I landed in Marrakech and stepped into the cool and dimly-lit lobby of the famous La Mamounia. This hotel has intrigued luxury travelers for decades with its legendary status and famous guests. It exudes history, elegance and yet also a vibrant Moroccan spirit. I’ve stayed at La Mamounia several times before but this was the first since the pandemic. For a few days, I was once again part of its storied legacy.

Walking in the Footsteps of Winston Churchill

La Mamounia has been a sanctuary for many notable figures over the years. However, perhaps none has left a more enduring mark than former British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. Known for his love of painting, he often referred to La Mamounia as “the most lovely spot in the whole world.”

Churchill first visited the hotel in the 1930s and returned many times. Often, he brought his easel and paints, eager to capture the beauty of the gardens and the Atlas Mountains beyond. Even now it’s easy to imagine him sitting in the very same gardens I could see from my suite, painting the rows pf flowers and palm trees.

La Mamounia’s gardens have been a central part of its identity since the hotel opened. Spanning nearly 20 acres, it is a lush private world of greenery within the walls of the Marrakech Medina. Orange and olive trees, cacti, roses, and towering palms create a space so serene that it feels miles away from the hustle and bustle.

Somewhere in this garden as well is a small plaque to mark the spot where Churchill used to set up his easel.

The views from the executive suite

My executive suite was a lovely blend of Moroccan craftsmanship and modern elegance. Hand-carved cedarwood screens, intricate zellij tilework in rich shades of cobalt and emerald, and plush velvety furnishings made it feel grand and yet also comforting. Every detail, from the Moroccan silk curtains to the opulent marble bathroom, reflected La Mamounia’s dedication to authentic design. It was a joy to return to this suite every evening.

READ ABOUT ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL HACIENDA HOTELS IN SPAIN

Legendary Hospitality at La Mamounia

However the staff’s hospitality was what really made all the difference to my stay. The team was sincere, confident and professional across the board. For instance, a lady serving us lunch in the lobby told us, who said she’d been working at the hotel for many years, gave some pointers for what to see in the medina.

Meanwhile, my spa therapist for the hotel’s signature Obido facial, which was so good that I booked it twice, taught me how to massage my face. As for the wonderful concierge team, they truly tried their best to get me into the most impossible places in Marrakech.

I’ve stayed in the best hotels in the world. Each member of the La Mamounia team was personally invested in making my experience extraordinary.

Farewell to a great hotel

Leaving La Mamounia was a bittersweet experience. Having stayed nearly a week in such splendor, I was reluctant to check out. The past and present coexist harmoniously at La Mamounia and every detail tells a story. And every member of the hotel team is a storyteller, bringing the warmth of Moroccan hospitality to life in every interaction.

This is not simply another luxurious hotel. It is an experience and a journey into Moroccan heritage that lingers long after the stay is over. No wonder Winston Churchill and countless others — myself included — were and continue to be captivated by its charm.

Read more about Luxury Travel in Morocco in Travelife Magazine

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“This is a local favorite,” the waitress said, setting an elaborate stand of afternoon tea treats in front of us as we sat under the sun with a view of the Atlantic Ocean. She added: “Our chefs created originals — you won’t find these elsewhere.”

We had just landed in Cape Town that morning and from the airport we’d driven straight to the 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa for an early afternoon tea on the outdoor terrace without bothering to check in first.

SUMMER IN CAPE TOWN

The day was so fine and the ocean was calling out to us so we set aside the formalities for later. Also, we were eager to sit by the sea and to start our wonderful holiday at the edge of the world with a proper toast.

This was South Africa, after all, land of amazing nature and excellent wine, so drinks should always be within reach. Luckily a table was available; and soon flutes of sparkling wine and an ornate tray of treats arrived, just too beautiful to eat.

This experience, aptly named “Tea by the Sea” by the 12 Apostles came highly recommended and we were grateful we heeded someone’s advice.

AFTERNOON TEA AT THE 12 APOSTLES HOTEL & SPA

Even now, it gives me an adrenaline shot to write about this moment full of expectations at the very start of three amazing weeks in Africa. Everything was just perfect. The skies were clear and the sea was an intoxicating cerulean hue, and all around us were happy people celebrating something on a Friday at noon.

Perhaps they all had birthdays or anniversaries; or maybe Cape Townians do this all the time and need no excuses for a mid-day party ahead of the weekend. In any case, their joy was infectious, so by the time we’d put away our mobile phones, made the exuberant toasts and were ready to eat, I felt on top of the world in spite of the fact that I was geographically at the bottom of it.

AVOCADO SANDWICHES AT THE 12 APOSTLES

To break the ice between us and our elegant afternoon tea tray, from the tantalizing selections we chose the avocado sandwiches covered in crushed almonds. Perfectly formed, the initial mouthfuls of goodness left us wide-eyed with wonder.

The taste is simply impossible to describe; but we were in heaven and I’m sure the location had something to do with our elation as well.

We savored these rich finger sandwiches — crunchy on the outside and all mushy with avocado inside — as slowly as we could manage between sips of bubbly; and then we quickly ordered another round.

“Life is short and when else will we ever have these again?” My companion said, in the form of a rhetorical question. We both knew that I felt exactly the same way, and this is how we threw our calorie counts to the wind that afternoon at the 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa.

CLASSIC HOTEL BY THE SEA IN CAPE TOWN

There are many lovely places to stay in Cape Town, but the 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa is one of a handful that directly take you not only to a hotel of luxury, but also to a time of genteel and unrushed travel for a proper holiday. It’s a destination hotel full of quirks and personal touches; including winding corridors and narrow stairs that lead to picture-pretty landings.

Meanwhile, the interiors are about classic furniture, memorable art, stripes and flowery prints that create a country house atmosphere. Everything slowly grows on you so that eventually you feel like calling this hotel a home. Not a few guests return every year for this familiar and wonderful holiday.

DRIVING ALONG CHAPMAN’S PEAK

The main attractions are the ocean views, the famous 12 Apostles mountain range, and the nearby Chapman’s Peak Drive, one of the loveliest road trips in the world. These alone, along with the hotel’s wild garden of botanical, offer the perfect combination for down-time in Cape Town.

Here, you will wish for a book or sketchpad; or at least a playlist of your favorite music; once you sit down, you won’t want to get up, let alone go to the V&A Waterfront.

The need to have a busy sightseeing list will turn into a distant memory. Most guests at 12 Apostles purposely want to leave the world behind. So they end up enjoying what is in front of them instead of following the tourist trails around the city.

Read more about luxury hotels in South Africa in Travelife Magazine.

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Today we had a tempura lunch at Tatsumi at the Palace Hotel Tokyo, a member of The Leading Hotels of the World. This is one of the top restaurants in Japan, and I consider it one of the best restaurants for Japanese food in Tokyo.

Tatsumi is a small restaurant with excellent Japanese food and flawless service.

THIRD TIME LUCKY AT TATSUMI AT THE PALACE HOTEL IN TOKYO

I stayed at the Palace Hotel Tokyo for three nights last winter. On this visit, I really wanted to eat at Tatsumi. Unfortunately it was actually full for all three days except for a very late lunch. So on this trip to Tokyo, I made sure to book early.

The ingredients for tempura at Tatsumi are all from the best food sources in Japan. Everything is local. Furthermore, the chef prepares everything in front of you so you are guaranteed the freshness of your meal.

I also like the style of frying here. The batter is very light and so every piece is perfectly crisp. Furthermore, the restaurant serves six kinds of salt and two kinds of garnish.

SHRIMP FROM OKINAWA AND SALT FROM THE ANDES

Today we began with shrimp from Okinawa. The chef fried the shrimp heads first and then the body of the shrimp. He advised us to eat these with Okinawa salt. He also had pink salt from the Andes on hand. I really liked this tasty salt with the shrimp as well.

INGREDIENTS FOR TEMPURA

A Japanese fish called aji is a mainstay in any tempura restaurant. But at Tatsumi at the Palace Hotel Tokyo, the aji is just perfectly done. Another memorable tempura was the eggplant from Gunma Prefecture.

Usually, deep-fried eggplant is quite crisp outside and inside. But the eggplant today was crisp on the outside and perfectly soft inside. We were asked to eat this with some dashi sauce and grated daikon.

At the end of the meal, the chef asked us if we wanted to order pickled plum tempura. Pickled plums? This is the only restaurant that has ever offered us this unique Japanese food so of course we said yes right away.

This is not an in-your-face kind of meal. It whispers rather than shouts. And today’s lunch was a most delicious meal in a very subtle way.

Read more about articles about the best restaurants of Tokyo in Travelife Magazine.

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