When I think of Phnom Penh, I remember the Royal Palace and the Raffles Hotel. it is not just another Asian capital on a map for me, but a city etched into my personal history. It is threaded through with family ties, and bound to my memories of youth. My father was the first Philippine ambassador to Cambodia after diplomatic ties were reestablished in the early 1990s. I was still a teenager then, and our days in sleepy Phnom Penh felt like stepping into another time.

Phnom Penh Then and Now

There were scarcely any hotels in Cambodia in those days. Siem Reap was little more than a forgotten outpost, without proper accommodations or even a restaurant to speak of. The Grand Hotel d’Angkor — now the magnificent Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor and sister property to Raffles Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh — still stood under scaffolding, awaiting its rebirth.

In Phnom Penh, however, the newly renovated and reopened Raffles Hotel Le Royal was already welcoming guests. It was the city’s only true luxury hotel, and it quickly became not just our residence, but our refuge and gateway into the heart of Cambodia.

Three decades on, Phnom Penh is almost unrecognizable. The quiet town my family once knew has grown into a crowded, fast-moving capital. Yet amid the city’s transformation, Raffles has not changed. The hotel retains the grace of another era, and its enduring elegance still makes it the city’s defining address — a place that connects past and present without ever feeling dated.

La Esperanza Granada — exclusive-use hacienda wedding venue for intimate celebrations

(The celebration is all yours. The rest of the world stays outside the hacienda gates.)

Returning to the Past

Stepping into Le Royal is like entering a living storybook. Designed in the 1920s by Ernest Hébrard, the visionary French urbanist who helped shape Phnom Penh’s identity, the hotel has welcomed kings, queens, statesmen, and icons. When it opened in 1929, it was the tallest building in Phnom Penh, inaugurated by King Sisowath Monivong himself. The royal link remains today, not just in the crest gifted by the royal family or the art that adorns the ceilings, but in the atmosphere — a gentle reminder that you are a guest in a place steeped in history.

For me, staying here is always a homecoming of sorts. The high-ceilinged suites, the echo of French colonial lines softened by Khmer motifs, the shaded verandas where time seems to pause — all of these evoke memories of my early visits, when Cambodia was only beginning to reopen itself to the world. Yet the hotel is never static. It has grown into its role as the cultural heart of Phnom Penh.

We also loved having Sunday brunch or Sunday dinner at the Raffles Hotel, and it was always the highlight of our week. It was where conversations lingered, time stretched, and family life intersected with the grandeur of the hotel’s history.

Stay in a Suite at the Raffles Hotel in Phnom Penh

Arrive on a Friday evening and check into one of the Personality Suites, named after illustrious former guests like Jacqueline Kennedy, Charles de Gaulle, or Somerset Maugham. These suites are more than rooms — they are portals, lined with antiques and personal artifacts that connect you to the city’s storied past.

What sets them apart is the sense of character each carries: the Jacqueline Kennedy Suite is filled with photographs and mementos from her celebrated 1967 visit, a reminder of Phnom Penh’s brief moment in the international spotlight.

Meanwhile, the Somerset Maugham Suite recalls the writer’s long fascination with Southeast Asia, its desk and library inviting you to linger with a notebook. On the other hand, the Charles de Gaulle Suite pays homage to Cambodia’s deep historical ties with France. High ceilings, vintage furnishings, and polished teak floors add to the atmosphere, creating spaces that feel lived in rather than staged.

For me, the appeal lies in this layering of memory — you aren’t just staying in a hotel, you’re stepping into a chapter of Phnom Penh’s history.

Explore the Royal Palace

The next morning should begin at the Royal Palace of Cambodia, only minutes away. Its gilded spires rise above the city, a reminder of Phnom Penh’s royal heritage. Within the grounds, the Silver Pagoda is striking, with more than 5,000 silver tiles laid across its floor and a collection of treasures that includes a golden Maitreya Buddha studded with diamonds and a small but luminous Emerald Buddha.

The Throne Hall, with its painted ceiling panels and ceremonial throne, conveys the formality of Cambodia’s monarchy, while the surrounding gardens, shaded and meticulously kept, offer a quieter counterpoint to the palace’s grandeur.

Visit the National Museum of Cambodia

Nearby is the National Museum of Cambodia, a must for any Phnom Penh itinerary. Its deep red terracotta pavilions and quiet courtyards shelter one of the world’s greatest collections of Khmer art, spanning nine centuries of sculpture, bronzes, and ceramics.

What draws me back most are the pieces that seem to carry entire worlds within them: the serene sandstone statue of Jayavarman VII, seated in meditation with eyes lowered, radiates a stillness that feels almost timeless; the monumental bronze Vishnu dredged from the Mekong has a presence so powerful you sense the river still clings to it.

I love pausing in the Angkor galleries, where apsaras carved in delicate relief dance across lintels and door frames, each curve of stone holding centuries of devotion. And yet, beyond the masterpieces, I’m just as fond of the museum’s open-air courtyards shaded by frangipani, where the perfume of fallen blossoms mingles with the sense of history all around. For me, this is where Phnom Penh’s noise falls away, and you can feel Cambodia’s past breathing quietly in the present.

Afternoon Tea and Royal Connections

Back at Raffles, guests booking certain VIP stays may even have the privilege of sharing afternoon tea with Her Highness Princess Chansita Norodom, daughter of the legendary prima ballerina Princess Buppha Devi, who championed the Apsara dance and secured its place on UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage.

I never had tea with her myself, but I recall how my father counted Prince Norodom Ranariddh as a good friend, while my mother often lunched with Queen Monique. These were everyday realities of our diplomatic life — a reminder that in Cambodia, the royal family brought a sense of mystique, glamour, and elegance that infused every aspect of diplomatic life.

A Culinary Journey with Chef Nak

On Sunday, dedicate a day to Cambodian cuisine. Join Chef Nak, one of Cambodia’s leading culinary voices, for a market visit and private cooking session in a traditional wooden house by the Mekong. Her book Saoy – Royal Cambodian Home Cuisine has been recognized as one of the best in the world, and her cooking links you directly to the heart of Cambodian tradition.

Phnom Penh Then and Now

Phnom Penh offers countless layers to explore. I often went to the Central Market in the 1990s, drawn as much by its Art Deco dome as by the treasures hidden within its stalls. In those early years, the market was full of exquisitely carved silverware, and I brought home silver bags, trays, and even a little silver elephant or two. The prices were astonishingly different then. Today the market has changed, but it remains equally fascinating, blending history with modern-day commerce.

Alongside the market, Wat Phnom, colonial boulevards, and a new wave of trendy cafés give Phnom Penh its evolving rhythm. Yet at night, I still feel the pull of Raffles Hotel Le Royal — timeless, elegant, and irreplaceable.

Dining the Raffles Hotel in Phnom Penh

The weekend culminates with a five-course dinner at Restaurant Le Royal, the hotel’s jewel. Beneath a painted ceiling, each course is a dialogue between Khmer royal cuisine and modern culinary artistry, paired with wines selected by your butler.

Beyond the hotel, Phnom Penh’s culinary life is equally memorable. I recall the Foreign Correspondents’ Club, which in the 1990s was the gathering point of expatriates and served some of the best food in the city. Across the river were humble local restaurants — far from glamorous, but unforgettable. One dish in particular stays with me: beef in a local sauce. I never discovered exactly what went into it, but it was the kind of dish you could not stop eating, as vivid in memory as any palace or museum.

Why Raffles Is Still the Only Place to Stay

As I step out into the warm Phnom Penh evening, I realize that one thing has never changed: to experience Cambodia’s capital in its fullest grace and dignity, you must begin — and end — at Raffles Hotel Le Royal Phnom Penh.

Phnom Penh: The Pearl of Asia

Often called the “Pearl of Asia,” Phnom Penh is Cambodia’s capital and cultural heart. Founded in the 14th century and restored as the royal capital in 1865, the city lies where the Tonlé Sap and Mekong rivers meet. It blends French colonial boulevards, Art Deco landmarks, and New Khmer architecture with a dynamic modern energy.

Today, Phnom Penh is home to more than two million people and is the country’s political, cultural, and economic center. Its riverside neighborhoods mix cafés and street markets with gilded pagodas and historic palaces. From the hilltop serenity of Wat Phnom to the grandeur of the Royal Palace, Phnom Penh remains both a living museum of Cambodia’s past and a vibrant gateway to its future.

About the Writer

Christine Cunanan is the publisher of Travelife Magazine, now a digital publication curating extraordinary trips and experiences for discerning readers worldwide. She is also the director of Nagatacho Ohka in Tokyo, a private fine-dining restaurant often described as one of Japan’s most exclusive culinary experiences.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, she purchased a property in Spain sight unseen and transformed it into La Esperanza Granada, a luxury hacienda in Andalusia that now hosts destination weddings, milestone celebrations, and family retreats. In 2025, La Esperanza Granada was honored with the Tripadvisor Best of the Best award, placing it among the top 1% of lodgings worldwide.

The post Where to go and what to do in Phnom Penh appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

During my last trip, I stayed at La Esperanza Granada, a boutique estate renowned for its elegance and intimate atmosphere. My junior suite featured a spacious terrace, charming blue and white interiors, and breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains—an unforgettable experience for any traveler seeking luxury in the heart of Andalusia.

In the Heart of the Lecrin Valley

Entering through the gates of the estate felt like stepping into a dream. Surrounded by verdant hills and ancient olive trees, the setting is nothing short of enchanting. Known as the “Valley of Happiness,” the Lecrin Valley is celebrated for its lush landscapes, mild climate, and vibrant wildflowers, making it a serene yet dynamic destination.

The estate’s prime location offers easy access to the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains, the cultural treasures of Granada, and the stunning Costa Tropical. Whether you’re seeking adventure or tranquility, this picturesque region has something for everyone.

La Esperanza Granada is a stunning example of Andalusian architecture, featuring whitewashed walls, terracotta tiles, and elegant arched windows framed by vibrant bougainvillea. Upon arrival, General Manager Napo and his attentive team welcomed me with a chilled glass of lemonade made from fresh lemons picked right in the courtyard—an unforgettable touch of hospitality.

Napo, who has been with La Esperanza Granada since its inception, shared fascinating stories about the hacienda’s creation. These insights added depth to my stay, enhancing my appreciation for its seamless blend of tradition and modern comfort.

La Esperanza Granada: A Luxury Hacienda with a View

I completely fell in love with my junior suite, which exuded authentic Andalusian charm. With tall wooden beams, hand-painted tiles, and thoughtfully designed interiors, it was a perfect blend of elegance and tradition.

Each morning, I sipped coffee on my private terrace, overlooking the valley’s picturesque olive groves. This terrace became my favorite retreat, offering tranquility and stunning views in complete privacy. The suite’s spacious bathroom, featuring a tiled shower and a walk-in closet, added to its luxurious appeal. It truly felt like a retreat within a retreat, with every detail thoughtfully crafted for ultimate comfort and relaxation.

The Natural Beauty of the Lecrin Valley

After breakfast, I explored the hacienda grounds. La Esperanza Granada offers beautifully landscaped gardens, lavender-lined pathways, and a private farm where guests can wander and explore.

Outside the hacienda, the valley’s charm continued. I visited the nearby villages of Saleres, Albunuelas and Melegis. Each one has its own charm, but all had cobbled streets, whitewashed buildings, and tapas bars that offered a taste of local life. In the bars, I met some locals and also some expatriates who had relocated here. They shared stories of their families and traditions, and I began to understand why the Lecrin Valley inspires such love from those who live here.

Pool with a View in Granada

Afternoons at La Esperanza Granada’s infinity pool offered a perfect way to relax. Set against the mountains, the pool overlooked the valley, and I often found myself mesmerized by the scenery. The fragrant air, alive with citrus and lavender, added to the experience. I savored each moment as the warm sun and tranquil surroundings washed over me.

Eating Well in Andalucia

La Esperanza’s dining experience became another highlight of my stay. Each meal felt like a celebration of Andalusian flavors and traditions. One evening, I enjoyed dinner on the terrace, cooked by the private chef and served to me exactly as the sun was setting over the valley.

Dinner began with Spanish tapas: olives, cheeses, and cured meats. This was followed by a savory mille-feuile of cheese, liver pate and figs drizzled with honey. The main course, a black squid ink paella made right in front of me, tasted exquisite. A rich red wine from a nearby winery perfectly complemented the meal.

Reflections on a Luxury Hacienda

Before I realized it, it was time to go. Time had indeed flew by — to use a cliche. As I packed my bags, I felt a deep gratitude for my time at La Esperanza Granada. This estate offers far more than luxurious accommodations; it gives guests a chance to experience Andalusia’s beauty in a most authentic and serene way.

La Esperanza Granada, in the heart of the Lecrin Valley, redefines what it means to escape. I found a true retreat here, where each day offered beauty, tranquility, and inspiration. For those seeking a luxurious, unforgettable experience in Andalusia, La Esperanza Granada opens the door to an experience that stays with you long after you leave. A piece of the Valley of Happiness — which is the meaning of Lecrin in Arabic — lingers, calling you to return.

Read more about the best hotels in Spain

The post A beautiful hacienda in Andalucia appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

The idea to purchase a property in Spain came out the blue. It was the height of the COVID pandemic and I was onboard a Japan Airlines flight about to land at Narita Airport in 20 minutes. The virus was ravaging much of Europe and there was no vaccine in sight.

As soon as I reached my home in Tokyo, I went online even before unpacking my bags. I googled “properties for sale in Spain” and made a shortlist of the estates I fancied. I wanted either a beautiful country house or a unique hotel. Luckily, I found a property in the pristine Lecrin Valley in Southern Spain, just 30 minutes from Granada and 90 minutes from Malaga. This easily met these two criteria.

ABOUT THE LECRIN VALLEY

The Lecrin Valley lies amidst some of the most protected lands in the country. It has a strict plot-to-building ratio regulation. However, the former owners somehow received permission to build what is now the largest structure in the entire area.

It sits on a hill amidst five hectares of organic land with the “most beautiful view of Lecrin.” They built a small hotel with a lovely main residence for themselves.

LEAP OF FAITH

Instinctively, I knew that I would never find a similar property elsewhere. My next step then became something of a legend in the luxury hotel industry. Since borders were closed, I bought the property sight unseen. Then, in the first months I renovated most of it remotely via several thousand Whatsapp messages. Today we are a proud member of the L.V.X. Collection of Preferred Hotels and Resorts. We are also now considered one of the best hotels in Granada.

OF LUCK AND MADNESS

But let me backtrack to that fateful day in August 2020 when I purchased the property. I entrusted the transaction to a Granada lawyer I had never met and the official turnover of the keys to Pablo, a Spaniard I’d spoken three sentences to at a cocktail party in Manila a year before.

Pablo came from the region of Asturias, which is 882 kilometers away from Granada at the exact other end of Spain. He made the nine-hour drive on my behalf. which was incredibly lucky for me, as I knew no one else in Granada, or in the entire region of Andalucia for that matter. In purchasing this property on whim, you see, I’d basically thrown a dart on the map of Spain and this was where Fate led me.

This is a crazy story especially with COVID-19 thrown in, but it is exactly what happened. In fact, a journalist from the National Geographic Traveler stayed with us recently and listened wide-eyed to my narrative. She then wrote a glowing review with the title: “A hotel born out of madness.”

HOW TO OPEN A HOTEL

The property itself has good bones and the views and experience of nature here can never be understated. However, the process of transforming a country house starting to show its age into a luxury retreat worthy of belonging to one of the most prestigious hotel groups in the world amidst the pandemic required a succession of miracles. Fortunately, these were never in short supply.

It also needed a huge appetite for risk and the kind of positive mindset that’s practically set in stone – two things deeply embedded in my DNA. As my close friends will confirm, when I set out to do something, I have always jumped right in with gusto, eyes on the goal and with little thought for the downside. The word “impossible” does not exist in my vocabulary.

So one door after another simply opened with ease. My acquaintance Pablo coaxed his best friend Napo to also travel from Asturias to join him, and Napo has not left the property since Day 1. He is now the general manger of La Esperanza Granada.

To be continued.

Read more about the best hotels and resorts in the world in Travelife Magazine

The post The most romantic villa in Granada appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.