Every serious traveler has, at least once, chased a legend — a restaurant whispered about in quiet reverence, a table that seems to exist outside ordinary geography.

We flew into Japan one summer afternoon just to have lunch at a restaurant that had captured the attention of food lovers everywhere. To eat at Yanagiya, we first landed in Nagoya, a vibrant city in central Japan. From there, we stayed overnight and caught a local train the next morning to a tiny station in Gifu Prefecture.

When the train finally slowed to a stop in the quiet town of Mizunami, a waiting van whisked us away. We drove through rice fields shimmering in the heat and winding country roads lined with cedar trees. After half an hour, the van turned up a narrow hill, and there it was — a quiet farmhouse framed by forest, bathed in summer light.

A Hidden Masterpiece in the Countryside

Yanagiya could pass for any rural home in Japan. Its low wooden roof and sliding doors reveal nothing of the reputation it holds. Yet inside this unassuming farmhouse lies one of the most revered dining experiences in the world.

For years, despite its secluded location and its formidable price, Yanagiya has reigned near the top of Tabelog, Japan’s most respected restaurant review site. Among those who follow the culinary world closely, that ranking alone is enough to make it a pilgrimage. Japan’s standards for dining are famously exacting — so when locals agree that something is extraordinary, you listen.

At first glance, Yanagiya’s simplicity is disarming. But the family who runs it understands quiet drama. The meal unfolds not with spectacle, but with devotion.

Around the Irori Fire

In the heart of the room burns the irori, an open-hearth sand pit once found in every farmhouse. Here, eight river fish are staked upright around the glowing charcoal, their salt-crusted skins turning slowly to bronze. The sight is almost ceremonial — part sculpture, part memory of old Japan.

The chef worked in near silence, adjusting each skewer by instinct rather than timing. “My grandfather started the restaurant,” he told us, never pausing. “But it was my father who began cooking with the irori. A customer from the local bank suggested it to him.” His movements were as calm as the firelight that danced on the walls.

The Taste of Summer: Ayu

The first course was ayu, Japan’s beloved river fish. Grilled over the embers, it was delicate and clean, its sweetness deepened by the salt. Ayu is a symbol of summer here — fleeting, refined, and always tied to the season’s flow.

We dipped it into a sharp sauce of herbs and vinegar, then ate it whole, head to tail. The flavor was so subtle it felt almost like an emotion — something sensed rather than tasted. Locals say foreigners often miss its nuance. We didn’t. Every piece was a small revelation, especially the final dish: ayu deep-fried in the thinnest tempura batter, crisp as parchment.

Wild Game, Reimagined

Still, the highlight of the meal came later — the grilled game. Yanagiya is famous for it. The restaurant sources its wild boar and venison from hunters in the surrounding forests, but only accepts animals that have been killed cleanly. The family insists on this. A single misplaced shot, they say, can taint the purity of the meat.

The difference is unmistakable. The venison arrived tender and fragrant, tasting of mountain air and wood smoke. The wild boar was deeper, almost sweet. There was no heaviness, no trace of gaminess — only the pure, clean flavor of the countryside. It was better than beef, and more honest. I could have eaten another plate, but here, extra orders are not part of the ritual.

The Clockwork of a Perfect Meal

Meals at Yanagiya follow a quiet rhythm. There is no menu and no negotiation. Each course flows naturally into the next, ending exactly at three o’clock in the afternoon. When the last bite was served, the family gathered outside the door, bowing gently as each guest left.

Dessert, as always, was a small sweet — delicate, unassuming, and enough. Outside, the air was still thick with the scent of charcoal. We boarded the van back to Mizunami Station in silence, too content for words.

At the station, ritual gave way to reality. We bought ice creams from a tiny kiosk for a single coin — cold, sweet, and perfectly ordinary. It was the ideal ending to an extraordinary meal.

Quick Info: Yanagiya

Restaurant: Yanagiya

Location: Mizunami, Gifu Prefecture, Japan

Cuisine: Traditional Japanese countryside cooking (Irori-grilled fish and wild game)

Price Range: ¥15,000–¥20,000 per person

Reservations: Required, often months in advance

Access: About 20 minutes by taxi or shuttle from Mizunami Station

Tabelog Page: https://s.tabelog.com/en/gifu/A2103/A210301/21000023/

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you book Yanagiya?

Reservations are essential and can be made only by phone or through a Japanese-speaking contact. Bookings open several months ahead and fill quickly.

What is the signature dish at Yanagiya?

The restaurant is best known for irori-grilled ayu (sweetfish) in summer and wild game such as boar and venison in winter.

Does Yanagiya serve dessert?

The meal traditionally ends with a small sweet rather than a Western-style dessert. Diners often stop by the station shop afterward for ice cream.

Is Yanagiya worth the journey?

Completely. The food, setting, and precision of the experience make it one of Japan’s most authentic and unforgettable meals.

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I was intrigued when I first heard about Nagatacho Ohka. This private restaurant in Tokyo has no website and no public phone number. At first, I expected little more than exclusivity. However, I was unprepared to be amazed.

After all, I have stayed in some of the best hotels in the world and dined at the finest restaurants. My standards are high. Even so, my interest was piqued.

On a recent stopover in Tokyo, I accepted an invitation to dinner from Christine Cunanan, the director of Nagatacho Ohka. She lives mainly in Tokyo, yet also owns La Esperanza Granada, a luxury hacienda-style hotel in Southern Spain that was recently awarded Best of the Best for 2025 by Trip Advisor, placing it in one of the top 1% of all lodgings worldwide.

READ MORE ABOUT LA ESPERANZA GRANADA, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLA IN ANDALUCIA

A BEAUTIFUL HOUSE IN TOKYO

Nagatacho Ohka sits in a 100-year-old wooden building near the official residence of the Prime Minister of Japan. Previously, it was a famous soba and shabu shabu restaurant owned by the family of Akira Kurosawa, Japan’s most celebrated film director.

The restaurant closed during the pandemic. During that time, Christine Cunanan and her partners took over the space. They renovated the entire building to the highest standards, working with some of the finest craftsmen in Japan. “We didn’t really have a budget in mind when we renovated this,” said Christine. “We just wanted to be the best dining experience in Japan.”

THE BEST OF JAPANESE FOOD

And indeed, the result exceeded my already high expectations. Every design detail felt impeccable. From the start, the long, dark bar — inspired by a Kyoto machiya townhouse — made a statement. 

Meanwhile, the lively open-plan Chef’s Counter seated 15 guests in an atmosphere of energy and warmth.

Upstairs, four private rooms awaited. Each carried a different mood and theme, yet all were beautiful. If you asked mewhich one was best, I would have no answer. It truly depends on who you are with and what kind of mood you are in.

Q&A with Christine Cunanan, Director of Nagatacho Ohka

Q: Is it true that Nagatacho Ohka is the best restaurant in Tokyo?

A: I like to think so. There are very few restaurants in Tokyo — if not in the world — that are private and non-commercial. Without the pressures of a commercial establishment, we are free to offer the best dining experience possible. Many guests afterwards tell me that dinner at our restaurant was one of the best food experiences they’ve had.

Q: If you are the best restaurant in Tokyo, are you also the most expensive?

A: We are definitely not cheap. But price is relative. However I can 100% confirm that most foreign guests feel satisfied with their experience because they oftentimes return on their next visit to Japan, and sometimes even twice or thrice on the same visit. This would not happen so often if guests did not feel we offer value.

No restaurant will be able to please everyone, especially as the value of a dinner depends on the perceptions of each person and his or her personal circumstances. However, most of our guests are very happy with the Nagatacho Ohka experience.

Q: Some people are wondering why they see so few Japanese guests compared to foreigners.

A: First, we tend to put foreigners in our first floor Chef’s Counter because they like sitting around the counter and watching the chefs. Meanwhile, Japanese guests are usually regulars who have their favorite rooms for entertaining on the second floor. They rarely book the chef’s counter because they prefer to dine in privacy. For this reason, a diner eating at our Chef’s Counter will probably see mostly other foreigners dining in the restaurant. The Japanese members are all in the private rooms upstairs.

Second, we are a private restaurant and we have decided to accept only Japanese diners who are friends or associates of our restaurant partners. It is a very strict policy because the owners want to relax only with people they know. Currently, the restaurant caters to only 50 Japanese and their friends and associates.

Meanwhile, foreign guests can eat at Nagatacho Ohka on an introduction basis. For example, if you know me or someone I know, or if you are a guest of one of our luxury travel partners, then you are able to easily book at Nagatacho Ohka as long as we have availability. So the window is larger as many of Tokyo’s top hotels such as the Four Seasons, Bulgari Hotel, Aman Tokyo, Janu Tokyo and the Park Hyatt Tokyo send their guests to us.

THE WORLD’S ONLY JAPANESE LACQUER ROOM

For dinner, we began in the Urushi no Heya, said to be the world’s only Japanese lacquer room. Frankly, it was stunning. A long lacquer dining table dominated the space. The ceiling, also covered in lacquer, glowed with elegance. Most impressive, a golden peacock stretched across the room — etched in delicate detail and mirrored above. You have to see itto truly appreciate its beauty.

Dinner itself was unforgettable. At Nagatacho Ohka, there is no set menu. Instead, chefs — many trained in Michelin-starred restaurants — roll out wagons filled with seafood, vegetables, and the finest beef in Japan. Yes, the finest beef, and not just A5 wagyu.

This beef comes from a farm in Kagoshima, southern Japan, recognized by the Japanese beef industry as producing the nation’s #1 meat. From these ingredients, chefs and guests create a menu together. Diners share their wishes, and the chefs suggest dishes. For my part, I asked for the house specialties, steak, and garlic rice.

WONDERFUL BEGINNINGS AT NAGATACHO OHKA

But first came the appetizers, paired with flutes of sparkling sake. “We also have champagne,” Christine explained, “but really good sparkling sake is rare outside Japan. I always recommend it to foreign guests.”

We began with caviar tucked inside a cheese-flavored brioche bun. (Who would have guessed this pairing would work so perfectly?) Next, a delicate sandwich of chateaubriand from the Kagoshima farm appeared. After that, I enjoyed slices of tender abalone with thick seaweed sauce and sushi rice.

By then, I was already happy. Every bite felt like a promise of what was still to come.

THE FIRST DREAM MENU

But this was not dinner yet. It was only the beginning. The rest of the meal unfolded like a dream.

We began with two kinds of sashimi, lightly seared over charcoal and seasoned only with salt. There was no need for soy sauce. The fish included black throat (nodoguro) and golden eye (kinmeidai), both delicate and flavorful.

Next came a traditional Japanese clear soup. It featured a perfectly filleted slice of spring fish (amadai) and a crisp tempura of vegetables and swordfish. The swordfish tempura was unforgettable — light, crunchy, and full of flavor.

THE MAIN EVENTS

After that, we tasted buttery Hokkaido scallops, sautéed and topped with rosemary purée. Then came something unexpected: an original pasta made from live French lobster, with noodles shaped like a cone. At first glance, I would never have guessed it was pasta.

Finally, a beautiful steak arrived, paired with fresh wasabi and sea salt from Himeji in Western Japan. A bowl of garlic rice sat on the side. I said “finally” because I thought the meal was over.

To my surprise, Christine handed me another menu. “This is our comfort food menu,” she said. “Japanese love to end a fancy meal with comfort food, so we offer soba and even spaghetti Napolitan. You cannot leave without trying them.”

HOW TO CREATE A DREAM DINNER

We ended up ordering about seven dishes from the comfort food menu, and every single one was delicious. The soba, for example, is prepared by a famous soba master who works full-time onsite. He has been making soba for more than thirty years. His handmade noodles, mixed with 80% buckwheat flour, are so delicate it is hard to believe they are cut by hand.

Other standouts included omelette rice made with egg yolks the color of golden sunshine, a crisp minced meat cutlet, and the signature spaghetti Napolitan. As food lovers know, this dish does not exist in Italy. It was invented in Japan long ago, based on what people imagined Italians ate. In truth, there is no spaghetti Napolitan in Italy, so Japan is the only place you can enjoy it.

At Nagatacho Ohka, the version is addictive. The pasta has just the right touch of spiciness, with thin slices of sausage folded into the sauce. And for those who prefer extra heat, a bottle of Tabasco comes on the side — exactly the way it was served in Japanese coffee shops decades ago, before Tokyo became the cosmopolitan city it is today.

WHERE TO EAT SPAGHETTI NAPOLITAN IN TOKYO

As food lovers know, there is no such thing as spaghetti Napolitan in Italy. This pasta was created in Japan decades ago, inspired by what people imagined Italians ate. In truth, the dish does not exist in Italy, so Japan is the only place where you can enjoy it.

At Nagatacho Ohka, their version is irresistible. The pasta has just the right level of spiciness, with thin slices of sausage mixed into the sauce. For those who like extra heat, a bottle of Tabasco comes on the side. This detail reflects tradition, since spaghetti Napolitan was once served the same way in Japanese coffee shops before Tokyo grew into the cosmopolitan city it is today.

SWEET ENDINGS AT NAGATACHO OHKA

Nagatacho Ohka also offers a long dessert menu. After such a feast, I chose a simple medley of homemade ice cream in original flavors.

First, a refreshing plum and perilla leaf sorbet acted as a palate cleanser. Next, came a creamy kinako ice cream, flavored with roasted soybean flour. After that, a Japanese cinnamon ice cream arrived, with crunchy bits of bark folded in. Finally, the matcha ice cream closed the meal. Matcha is common in Japan and abroad, but this version used the highest grade of green tea. The taste balanced perfectly between subtle sweetness and refined bitterness.

Just like everything else at Nagatacho Ohka, the desserts were better than expected.

(Guests staying at top Tokyo hotels like Aman, Bulgari, Janu, the Grand Hyatt, the New Otani and the Ritz Carlton, among others, can book Nagatacho Ohka through their concierge. Or you can message Christine Cunanan on LinkedIn and tell her you read about the restaurant in my LinkedIn post.)

READ MORE ABOUT THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN TOKYO IN TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE

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Hokkaido is an outdoors destination all year round. Visitors go skiing during the long winter and then hike and bike the rest of the year. As most of the activities are outdoors, many dining options are also outside. Everyone in these parts loves going on picnics or sitting on benches in parks with a snack.

WHERE TO GO FOR BARBECUE IN HOKKAIDO

Meanwhile, families who visit Hokkaido never leave without having at least one barbecue dinner. It’s the quintessential Hokkaido experience, to hold a barbecue under the stars.

Of course, we were part of the majority who were keen to experience a summer evening barbecue dinner at the Kiroro Tribute Portfolio Hotel in Hokkaido. This is quite famous all over Japan because the ingredients from Hokkaido are considered the best quality of food. Then there’s the fact that the weather in the summer is just amazing. You want to sit outdoors all night long.

DINNER AT THE KIRORO TRIBUTE PORTFOLIO

The Kiroro Tribute Portfolio offers a summer evening barbecue on the terrace of the hotel. It’s very popular among guests and locals, so bookings are required in advance. The hotel team sets up tables in a circle around the fountain, with a large tent in the middle. Lounge music or live music plays all night and there’s a chill vibe all around.

The team sets up a barbecue station for each group, So on every table there is a table-top barbecue grill that’s fired and ready to cook. It holds just enough cooking bricks for about three hours so guests can relax and cook and eat at leisure.

THE BEST INGREDIENTS IN JAPAN

Several trays of food come with the standard package, and it’s really a lot of food. There are assorted cuts of pork, beef and lamp. Then we also had a lot seafood. We had giant shrimps and scallops, and sliced squid. Plus bread to roast and even onigiri.

Of course, there are also vegetables for grilling like tomatoes and asparagus, and traditional Hokkaido food like corn. Dessert is also roasted on the grill, just like everything else.

DESSERT ON THE BARBECUE

Towards the end of dinner, the waitstaff brings a package wrapped in foil. “Place that on the grill and it’ll be ready to eat in a few minutes,” our waiter told us, with a smile. We did as we were told. The result was a delicious mash of warmed up marshmallows, bananas with brown sugar and some crumbled cookies. It was so good that I wouldn’t have minded getting seconds.

THE BEST GRILLED CHEESE

Aside from the dinner package, there’s also an a la carte menu. We ordered a Hokkaido Camembert cheese for roasting from this menu just to try what it was like. It arrived with slices of bread and toast. Again, we were told to place the Camembert cheese on the grill for a few minutes.

When we finally opened it up, it was warm, soft and gooey. Perfect for spreading on toasts for an appetizer. Who would have thought that grilled Camembert cheese could be so delicious?

READ ABOUT A ROMANTIC NEW HOTEL IN SPAIN

Just as we were enjoying dessert, there was a commotion at the other end of the Kiroro Tribute Portfolio. It turned out that the fireworks were about to start, so many people were on their way to the field to watch. Of course we joined the crowds to watch. So in this sense, we actually had two desserts.

Read more about the best hotels and resorts in Japan in Travelife Magazine.

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Kyoto is a city for the serious gourmet. It has many excellent establishments including some of the finest kaiseki restaurants in Japan. However, few offer the unbeatable combination of great steaks, a stylish atmosphere and one of the best views in Kyoto.

UNIQUE RESTAURANT IN KYOTO

In this sense, the Yasaka restaurant of the Park Hyatt Kyoto is in a category all its own. It offers a contemporary version of teppanyaki to diners sitting around two massive wooden counters, both with 180-degree views of the Yasaka Shrine.

The atmosphere alone is most impressive, as the hotel that houses it. The Park Hyatt Kyoto is a modern structure inspired by traditional Japanese design. It’s all 21st century and at the same time 18th century. Moreover, it stands out for being a design innovator. However it also blends seamlessly into the background of one of Kyoto’s most famous and most picturesque neighborhoods.

AMAZING VIEWS OF YASAKA SHRINE

The Yasaka restaurant has a similar concept. It is disarmingly simple in design. In fact, you will not be aware that it exists unless you have already booked your seats for dinner. Otherwise, you will never see it during your stay. It’s tucked away in one floor of the hotel that you would never go to unless you are dining here or drinking at the bar.

Once you set foot in the restaurant, though, it is quite impossible to forget it. The view of Yasaka Shrine and the city of Kyoto in the background alone is the kind you will remember forever. And moreso because you will have had a perfectly grilled steak to go with it. The chefs here certainly know how to cook meat exactly as each diner wishes.

READ ABOUT A NEW HACIENDA HOTEL IN SPAIN

THE BEST TEPPANYAKI IN KYOTO

Part of the fun of a teppanyaki dinner is being able to sit around a counter and watch the chef cook your meal. The movement, colors and aroma all combine for some great entertainment. Then, of course, the food at a teppanyaki restaurant is served the same minute it is done. So this ensures the best possible conditions for dinner.

Eating at the Yasaka restaurant of the Park Hyatt is food and art and also theater all at once. In fact, it is a most dramatic theater. And arguably the best seat in Kyoto every evening,

Read more about the Park Hyatt Kyoto in Travelife Magazine.

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Most of the 24 suites and four two-bedroom villas have views of the bay and of the pearl farms. These also have hot springs bathtubs carved out of black granite that look out onto greenery.

SIMPLE ELEGANCE AT AMANEMU

Apart from these features, Amanemu is simplicity itself. Inside these stark modern structures, you will find wooden interiors along the same lines of a Japanese shrine. The hue of brown is exactly that of a well-polished chopsticks. Inside, you’ll find more somber pottery and utensils that speak of grace and elegance.

As for the architectural features, these are so restrained that you will immediately notice a cup or a book that is not in its place. Even the three plums in a basket on the table were arranged so artlessly and yet so artistically that I preferred to take photos of them than to eat them.

HOW TO FIND PEACE

At Amanemu, you will definitely find your peace. That is, if you don’t carry it within you yet. After entering its premises, almost everything mundane will cease to matter when confronted with the seamless serenity wherever you will look. In fact, this serenity is similar to what pilgrims must experience upon reaching the famous Ise Shrine, which is just a few minutes away.

Trust me. Amanemu is sublime at its best. It will overcome you even before you realize it. By the second day, you will be experiencing joy just by sitting on the sofa on the terrace, gazing at trees and the sea.

ABOUT AMANEMU

Amanemu is quiet and serene so it’s the perfect place to get away from it all. Most of the Amanemu villas have a view of the sea and the pearl farms of Ise, except for the entry-level villas which have views of greenery.

Otherwise, the layouts of the villas at Amanemu are the same. There is the one-bedroom Amanemu villa, which is basically half of a duplex, and they are all of the same size and layout, including a hot springs bathtub. The only difference is the view.

Then you have the two-bedroom Amanemu villas which are two bedrooms joined by a living room and a common bath, although each villa is ensuite anyway. The common bath is a hot springs bath while the ensuite baths are not.

THE LARGEST HOT SPRINGS POOL IN JAPAN

In contrast to the simplicity of the villas, the spa complex is a wondrous maze of water and wellness. It’s located at the end of the estate. The design is beautiful and it has a carefully planned bathing area with a simple wooden tub as focal point.

Meanwhile, the largest outdoor hot springs pool I have ever seen in Japan is just outside. It’s not even a pool, really. Rather, it’s a collection of large and small pools that flow into each other. The pools are surrounded by stylish cabanas, lounging areas and treatment rooms. Here, in one of the treatment rooms looking out onto a rock garden, I had an excellent 90-minute shiatsu massage designed to revitalize and invigorate.

BREAKFAST AT AMANEMU

The next morning, we decided to have breakfast in our room. Meals are also served at the main restaurant. However, we could not tear ourselves away from the serenity we’d so easily become accustomed to overnight. A smiling lady delivered our Japanese breakfast to us in unvarnished wooden boxes.

Each small dish was again placed so picturesquely within its assigned space. So breakfast looked more like an artwork than food. We lingered over our meal, comforted by the understanding that life is best savoured in small but delightful doses at Amanemu. Just like our Japanese bento box breakfast.

Read more about the best hotels and resorts in Japan in Travelife Magazine.

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The joys of renting a holiday villa with a housekeeper and a caterer should never be underestimated. It’s nice to go to somewhere new for an adventure, while basing yourself in a lovely house. However, having meals prepared every day by a professional team, who will also clean up afterwards, enables everyone to truly relax.

RENTING A VILLA IN HOKKAIDO

We booked the Chalet Mizunara of Elite Havens Luxury Villa Rentals and Management at the end of our two-week stay in Hokkaido amidst the COVID-19 pandemic. It’s a lovely four-bedroom house in the area of Hirafu, which is popular among tourists.

The villa comes with housekeeping services and prepared meals are offered as an option, which we gladly took. So every day, we had the delicious task of choosing what we wanted for breakfast and dinner from a wide variety offered by the Niseko Gourmet Catering company.

WHERE TO EAT HOKKAIDO CRAB

Upon arrival, for instance, we suddenly were inspired to eat crab. Hokkaido is famous for its crab, after all. So I messaged the Elite Havens team: “Can we hire a chef to prepare Hokkaido crab for us for dinner on our first night?”

As it was short notice, the chefs of Niseko Gourmet were already all booked for catering jobs at other villas. However, Therese of the Elite Havens team replied: “We can’t send any of our chefs as they’ve all got other jobs that night. But we can send over Hokkaido crab and seafood for shabu shabu. We’ll bring it over and set everything up. How does that sound?”

It sounded perfect. So we arrived at the villa mid-afternoon and at 6 PM, the Niseko Gourmet team was at the Mizunara Chalet to set the table and prepare the food. All we had to do was sit and eat. And, of course, it was delicious.

READ ABOUT THE VILLA WITH A VIEW IN NISEKO

CHICKEN RICE FOR BREAKFAST

That same night, before leaving us, Annie from Niseko Gourmet asked me: “What would you like for breakfast?”

I replied, on a sudden inspiration: “Chicken rice, please!”

This is one of the choices on offer for breakfast and it happens to be one of my favorite foods in the world.

Well, when we woke up the next day, Annie was already busy in the kitchen preparing our chicken rice breakfast. She brought all the ingredients in a large box and made our food from scratch.

READ ABOUT THE BEST NEW HOTEL IN SPAIN

WHAT’S COOKING IN THE KITCHEN

Before going out on a short walk around Hirafu, I peeked at what she was cooking. Chicken was boiling in a large pot and fragrant rice was already in the rice cooker. There was even roast pork in the oven as an extra dish.

When we returned to Mizunara Chalet, our breakfast was ready. It was brunch, really. And it was among the best chicken rice I’ve ever tasted. As for renting a holiday villa with delicious food prepared for you every day, well, that is true luxury as far as I’m concerned.

Read more about the best hotels and resorts in Japan in Travelife Magazine.

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Niseko is world-famous for its powder snow and luxury ski resorts, but when it comes to dining, one name rises above them all: Molière Montagne at the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono. Widely regarded as the best restaurant in Niseko, it brings the prestige of French haute cuisine to the snowy mountains of Hokkaido.

Created by the team behind Sapporo’s legendary three-Michelin-starred Molière, this outpost combines world-class technique with the seasonal bounty of Hokkaido — seafood from icy northern waters, mountain vegetables, and pristine dairy from local farms. The result is more than a meal: it’s a culinary performance that has redefined what fine dining in Niseko can be.

Molière Montaigne : Fine Dining in Niseko

The stage for this gastronomic experience could not be more spectacular. Nestled in the snow-covered mountains of Niseko, the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono exudes understated luxury. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame views of white slopes and pine forests, while the interiors balance sleek, modern lines with natural textures that reflect Hokkaido’s landscape.

It’s the kind of backdrop that elevates every course, where fine dining becomes inseparable from place. At Molière Montagne, the restaurant feels both cosmopolitan and deeply rooted in its alpine surroundings.

Chef Hiroshi Nakamichi’s Restaurant at the Park Hyatt Niseko

We dined at Molière Montagne, the newest venture of Michelin three-star chef Hiroshi Nakamichi, one of Japan’s most respected culinary figures. Known for elevating Hokkaido’s local ingredients to international acclaim, Nakamichi has created a restaurant in Niseko that mirrors his philosophy: refined, original, and deeply tied to the land.

This sister restaurant to Sapporo’s iconic Molière brings his artistry into the heart of Niseko’s luxury resort scene. Under his vision, the Niseko outpost has already become a destination in itself, attracting food lovers who travel as much for the cuisine as for the snow.

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Fine Dining in Niseko

Our meal began with an array of artful appetizers, each plate crafted to delight both the eye and palate. The presentation was so striking that for a moment, no one at the table wanted to disturb it.

Then came the first showstopper: an entire shellfish cloaked in a crust of black squid, its dramatic appearance matched by its rich, oceanic flavors. Conversation stopped as we took the first bite, each of us immersed in the sheer brilliance of the dish.

Next, Nakamichi sent out a plate that embodies his style: grilled pork on the bone, served on a bed of fresh tree branches. The smoky aroma of pine mingled with the tender meat, creating a dish that was not only delicious but evocative of Hokkaido’s forests.

Every course balanced precision with imagination. Western in technique yet Japanese in sensibility, Nakamichi’s cooking transcends categories, making Molière Montagne unlike any other restaurant in Niseko.

About Chef Nakamichi of Hokkaido

The food was excellent as it has always been. Chef Nakamichi is known for using the best ingredients from around Hokkaido, but in a most original way. His cooking is neither quite Western nor Japanese, although the original Moliere in Sapporo is known as a French restaurant. After receiving three Michelin stars, I believe Chef Nakamichi’s cooking evolved superbly.

We began with an assortment of Instagram-worthy appetisers and then went on to two main courses — both so good that all conversation stopped at the table. To start we each had an entire shellfish covered in a crust of black squid.

Discover Nagatacho Ohka: Tokyo’s Most Exclusive Culinary Experience

Signature Dishes of Moliere

The chef then sent us a dish charateristic of Nakamichi: grilled meat — this time juicy pork on bone — arrived, arranged tantalizingly on a bed of fresh tree branches.

He also made the famous cheese with berries dessert of Chef Nakamichi at the end of the evening. I’ve eaten this dessert at the Sapporo restaurant so many times. Seeing this again felt like a sign that normal times are not too far off.

Dining at Molière Montagne at the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono is more than a luxurious meal. It is a seamless blend of artistry, atmosphere, and terroir, shaped by Chef Hiroshi Nakamichi’s singular vision. Every dish tells the story of Hokkaido — its seas, its mountains, its seasons — yet carries the refinement of global haute cuisine.

Few restaurants manage to capture both place and perfection with such ease. That is why Molière is not just a dining option in Niseko; it is the best restaurant in Niseko, and one of the most memorable fine dining experiences in all of Japan.

Read more about the best hotels in Hokkaido in Travelife Magazine

The post Good food in Hokkaido appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

What fun we had with Chef Matsuhisa Nobu at his own restaurant Nobu at the Nobu Hotel in the City of Dreams last week. Chef Nobu visited Manila and I was invited to an exclusive Japanese lunch with him.

The lunch featured some of the Nobu specialties, including the black cod miso. This also happens to be my favourite Nobu specially dish.

COOKING LESSON WITH NOBU

I’d met him several times before. In fact, we have common friends in Tokyo. But this time I just could not pass up the chance to have a delicious lunch as well as to actually watch him in action.

Yes, the famous Chef Nobu Matsuhisa was going to demonstrate how to create some of the iconic dishes served at his Nobu restaurants around the world.

SIMPLE & EASY JAPANESE FOOD

Many great chefs create truly delicious Japanese food. But personally, I believe that the genius of Nobu lies in the fact that he makes everything so simply, and yet also so simply delicious.

For example, he began the demonstration with a dry miso salad. This dish consists basically of five or six ingredients including a lettuce green found in almost every country. So it can be replicated anywhere.

He was so relaxed while demonstrating this dish. But within minutes, we had a perfectly plated dry miso salad in front of us.

CHEF NOBU GIVES ME A SUSHI MAKING LESSON

Then he created a set of sushi. Everyone loves sushi, of course, and it looks deceptively simple to make. After all, sushi is really just sliced fish, with rice, a little vinegar, and some soy sauce. Or so I thought.

Our famous chef certainly made it seem that way.

CHEF NOBU TEACHES ME HOW TO MAKE SUSHI

But then he called out for a participant to help him make sushi. I immediately raised my hand. Of course I wanted to try making sushi with the famous Chef Nobu. In fact, I would be able to learn how to make sushi from the great master himself. Who wouldn’t to do so?

This was when I realised how much harder it is to make sushi than to eat it. Chef Nobu made it seem so easy, but my sushi certainly did not turn out the same way as his.

HOW TO MAKE GOOD SUSHI

In fact, Chef Nobu teased me afterwards: “I think I’ll give you my sushi to eat. But I don’t think I want to eat yours.”

He was right. I was holding a lopsided sushi in my hand. Even I did not want to eat my own sushi.

But guess what? In the end, I decided to eat it anyway. It was delicious. I may not have created a proper sushi in visual terms, but the fish and rice combination were perfect. In fact, it had just the right amount of wasabi and soy sauce. I was really pleased.

So I just may have a sushi career in the future, after all. When I’m done with living a Travelife, that is.

The post Lunch with Nobu in Manila appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

MY ADVANCE BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION

“Consider this an advanced birthday treat,” my friend said. I haven’t quite begun thinking of birthday celebrations yet. But if you must know, instead of doing the usual dinners in Tokyo and Manila, I thought I’d go to Tibet this year to take a course on Tibetan singing bowl therapies. Just an idea. And I also have a time constraint, as I must be in Macao for business soon after.

IT’S THE THOUGHT THAT COUNTS

Well, even if it was way in advance, this dinner did really a birthday treat, as well. I didn’t see the bill, but I have a feeling we could have flown to Europe for the weekend on the price of that very exclusive meal.

This restaurant is not on any of the international foodie lists. So it’s really just on this secret list of the best restaurants in Tokyo. In fact, it’s so under the radar that I’d never even heard of it before. However, one day, this friend, who is one of the biggest big-time foodies in Japan, finally took me. This is when I immediately understood what the fuss was all about.

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NO SIGNS, NO PUBLICITY AT THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN TOKYO

Actually, there is no fuss, except if you know of it and want to get in. First, it doesn’t have a sign. Those who are on the secret list of the best restaurants in Tokyo definitely want to remain there, so they avoid fanfare.

It has a very small logo somewhere in its very unobtrusive entrance. So someone who doesn’t have any idea of what he or she is looking for will miss it by a mile. And this is exactly what the owner/ chef wants.

Basically, his philosophy is: if you don’t know about this place, you don’t need to be here.

Just a handful of serious foodies keep him in business and he’s perfectly happy with this. He hates publicity so I actually had to leave my phones in my coat pocket at the entrance.

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A VERY EXCLUSIVE CLUB THAT ISN’T RECRUITING NEW MEMBERS

Second, the restaurants on this secret list of the best restaurants in Tokyo are all like little clubs.

Everyone knows everyone and everyone’s in business with each other because Tokyo is a actually a very small world within a very big city.

Being the outsider and a semi-foreigner in Japan, I actually didn’t know anyone when we walked in, although I knew of some of them. It’s a small place so you can scout out the territory in one glance.

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ONLY REGULARS ALLOWED

Third, most are regulars who keep the chef in business so he doesn’t need new customers. 

In fact, when we walked in, the chef was at the counter and he didn’t even look up from slicing some sashimi to greet us. That’s how much regulars regard this place as their “kitchen.”

A CONVERSATION MIDWAY

Then, still without looking up, the chef said to my friend: “So, did you get it?”

My friend didn’t miss a beat. He replied: “Nope. I just realised I don’t even have time to use the others.”

Of course I had no idea what they were discussing as it was probably part two, part three or part four of an ongoing conversation between them.

But later I found out that my friend had been thinking of ordering a custom-made Aston Martin to complement his garage of equally expensive toys, and this was what the conversation was about.

AT LAST, SOMEONE I KNOW

A little later, one of Japan’s richest men walks in. 

Aha. Finally I knew someone personally. And it’s interesting how I could instantly feel my stock rise in the eyes of the chef.

This latest guest, a very learned and courteous old gentleman, was once at the top of Japan’s rich list for something like 10 years, until the IT guys started to muscle their way into the list.

He’s still in the top 10, I think. But if you’ve been # 1 for a long time, I don’t think it’s a nice feeling to suddenly go down a couple of notches.

MY NEIGHBOR WHO JUST BOUGHT VIBER TOOK HIS PLACE

And now one of the top IT guys on the list — #3 or #4 perhaps — is my neighbour and I once could see his living room from mine. He bought the app Viber sometime back as a hobby, I think, and he’s eclipsed my old friend in terms of wealth.

Anyway, I know this guy who walked in because we share a fence with him in a summer holiday area of Japan where lots of people from Tokyo have weekend houses.

It’s not as posh as Karuizawa, for instance, which is where the Emperor and Empress met each other while playing tennis. Karuizawa is ground zero for the very social in the summer here in Tokyo.

It’s the kind of place where you have to wear casual designer wear just to go to the supermarket to buy stuff for breakfast, lest you feel out of place.

A MORE RELAXED SORT OF PLACE

Our area, which is thankfully much nearer Tokyo than Karuizawa, is much more relaxed but it has a very nice community that includes this gentleman.

He said to me: “I haven’t seen you for awhile.”

Yes, I haven’t been to my summer house in a very long time, since I’ve been busy with a Travelife. But many years back, he and his wife would just knock on my door on summer weekends when they knew I was around and drop off organic vegetables from the garden of their summer house.

They have a pretty amazing house with a sauna that has a perfect view of Mount Fuji.

A TRULY MIND-BLOWING MEAL

Anyway, we all had fun last Thursday night, in Tokyo, living a Travelife.

And the 12-course kaiseki dinner that was served was truly mind-blowing in taste and refinement. It was not overly dramatic way the way many of the three-star Michelin kaiseki places make such a production of a meal, so that you can’t decide whether you’re at a restaurant or at an art exhibit. But it was spectacular.

(Mind you. I happen to like the art exhibit-type of presentation too. But last Thursday’s meal was not that way, but simply beautiful too.)

This was one of the many courses at lunch last Wednesday at a Michelin two-star Japanese restaurant

ONE OF MY BEST JAPANESE MEALS

This was truly one of the best Japanese meals I’ve had, in my never-ending, and never-endingly eventful Travelife, full of good food and meals at some of the best restaurants in the world.

And what a pity I can’t write about this place lest I get blacklisted from this group and I never get to eat here again. So, unfortunately, no details and no photos.

Click here to read about

this ultra-secret list of

Tokyo’s best restaurants

The post The secret list of the best restaurants in Tokyo appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.

Food is an essential part of travel. If you are traveling to Western Japan, the Kansai region of Japan offers delicious Japanese food. Travelife Magazine shortlists some of the best restaurants in Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe.

THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN KOBE

KOMAGO

This three-star Michelin restaurant is a hidden gem. Locals consider it one of the best restaurants in Kobe for Japanese food. It offers an intimate setting for serving exquisite Japanese dishes in traditional lacquer boxes.

LA MAISON DE GRACIANI

For travelers craving French food, this fine-dining Michelin-starred restaurant offers refined cooking and an extensive wine list.

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THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN KYOTO

KIKUNOI HONTEN

Kikunoi changes its flavorful menus of Japanese food. Even its flower arrangements and displayed artworks vary to suit the seasons.

KITCHO

Kitcho is rumoured to be the favorite restaurant of legendary former Japanese Prime Minister Yashuhiro Nakasone. He reportedly took many world leaders for a meal here. This reclusive establishment on the banks of the Arashiyama River serves the finest Japanese cuisine at correspondingly fine prices.

HYOTEI

Diners at this 400-year-old former Japanese tea house can enjoy delicate and elegantly presented dishes inspired by the sophisticated spirit of the tea ceremony.

KYO-RYORI NAKAMURA

This restaurant serves only the highest standard of Kyoto cuisine. It has long been considered one of the best restaurants in Kyoto. One of their specialties is the shiro-miso zoni, which is Japanese rice dumpling soup seasoned with white miso.

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THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN OSAKA

FUJIYA 1935

Owned by 4th generation chef Tetsuya Fujiwara, this is considered one of the best restaurants in Osaka. This Michelin three-star restaurant consistently serves contemporary Spanish dishes using fresh Japanese ingredients such as Spanish mackerel in chrysanthemum sauce.

KORYU

Small and intimate, Koryu seats 10 to 12 people. It serves varied delicious Japanese food based on seasonal ingredients.

KASHIWAYA

This Relais & Châteaux establishment is always on the gourmet list of the best restaurants in Osaka. Kashiwaya serves authentic Japanese cuisine in a traditional but modernized “sukiya” dining room, with fusumasliding doors, shoji paper screens, and tatamimats. One of the must-try specialties of Chef Hideaki Matsuo is the amadai. This is a grilled tile fish marinated in a flavorful salt shrimp “shiokara” dip.

Read more articles about the best restaurants in Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe in Travelife Magazine.

The post Where to eat in Kyoto and Osaka appeared first on TRAVELIFE Magazine.