A night at Numazu Club, where one of the country’s most compelling small hotels reveals itself without ever raising its voice

There comes a point in any long love affair with Japan when the itinerary starts to feel less like discovery and more like homework. Another ryokan in Hakone. Another glass-and-lacquer temple to minimalism in Kyoto, its infinity pool angled just so toward a mountain that has appeared in nine hundred other people’s Instagram grids this month. All of it beautiful. None of it surprising anymore. At a certain point, five-star fatigue sets in, and you start hunting for the places social media influencers and travelers seeking the unique haven’t properly ruined yet.

Numazu was not on that list. In fact, even now, it is barely on anyone’s list. It certainly was not on mine. Until I heard of a lovely place to stay with one Michelin key called the Numazu Club.

So, on the basis of curiosity over this property operating out of a 123-year old estate, we drove a little over two hours south from Tokyo, past the Mount Fuji area, towards the luxury travel equivalent of Siberia.

WHERE EXACTLY IS NUMAZU?

Somewhere past the last of the expressway signage, the traffic thinned and the scenery went quiet in the particular way that reveals you’ve left the postcard behind. Instead, we found more factories, billboards and family restaurants lining the streets like a welcoming committee.

Numazu is a working fishing city — sizable, self-sufficient, and entirely unbothered by whether you show up because it already had a life longe before foreigners began getting ten year multiple-entry visas so easily.

It looks like it has never once tried to charm a tourist, which, perversely, is rather charming.

But at this point, we could ignore the elephant in the room any longer. Somewhere along the drive, both of us reached for our phones and Googled the same sheepish question: “What exactly is there to do in Numazu?

The internet’s answer was dutiful rather than seductive. An Imperial villa. A fish market of some renown. Mount Fuji, on the rare day it deigns to appear.

INTRODUCING THE MICHELIN ONE-KEY NUMAZU CLUB

And Numazu Club — eight rooms and next to nothing written about it in English. In the luxury travel business, this just might be the loudest possible endorsement.

On paper, it made no sense. It was a century-old estate at the edge of a city that was the equivalent of nowhere for luxury travel. The overseas tourists who would be Numazu Club’s natural target market — rates begin at around 80,000 yen per person per night — usually speed straight past on their way to Tokyo, Kansai or the Mount Fuji area.

Intriguingly, in spite of the odds, everyone I knew who’d managed to find Numazu Club and book a stay, became enamored with it.

I arrived braced for a handsome contemporary hotel with an old house preserved in for atmosphere, the way a good restaurant sometimes buys a vintage bar and a library of antique books for the walls.

I knew I was wrong as soon as we drove in. From the first impression of the Numazu Club, I knew we had found a unicorn.

THROUGH THE GATE OF SERENITY

Alighting from the car, I spotted a handsomely rustic thatched roof building that I immediately assumed served as the hotel’s gate.

The Nagaya Gate, which was built in 1913 and declared a Tangible Cultural Property by the Japanese government in 2015, is the perfect entrance to an estate once owned by a practitioner of the tea ceremony. It is simple, unassuming and yet impressive. I stopped underneath to admire it. It was in immaculate condition — an omen of what lay ahead.

Most heritage properties I’d seen in Japan so far had obviously been once lovely. However, many of those that have been converted into hotels have found difficulty maintaining their architectural treasures. In fact, many seemed hard pressed to keep up appearances.

“What an entrance,” I sighed, but it was a happy kind. “This gate. And the gardens. This is exactly the kind of place I would have wanted to own if I’d been a countess in the 1920s.”

“Or bought lots of Apple stock in the 1990s,” I added.

“You already have a nice property,” said my husband. “It’s called La Esperanza Granada in Spain.”

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Fair, and also beside the point. My own little hacienda in Andalucia is a beautiful wedding venue ringed in olive and citrus trees — about as far from a mossy Japanese timber estate as real estate can get.

And yet something in the two properties rhymed. Neither had been imposed on its landscape. Both looked as though they’d simply grown out of the ground beneath them, roots first, architecture second.

The Numazu Club is the kind of hotel that is so certain of its DNA that it makes little effort to impress. It understands that it offers a special experience — as did we, even before we’d reached the front desk.

GARDENS FROM CENTURIES PAST

But prior to the front desk in the hotel proper, which is housed in a contemporary building designed by the architect Akira Watanabe, we had to navigate the gardens.

The gardens look inherited and untouched rather than installed — as if they had simply always been there to give pleasure to the lucky few. 81 century-old trees including iconic black pine trees, lean in overhead like old men gossiping. Patches of moss colonize the stone on its own schedule, with no landscape architect’s rendering to answer to. Water from the Kakita River, reportedly among the best sources of water in Japan, finds its own route through the grounds rather than one dictated from above.

Nothing here has been freshly manicured for the cameras, or left to rot for authenticity’s sake either — a balance so difficult that most five-star properties simply give up and hire a design firm from Tokyo to curate the trees and plants instead.

Through the greenery, the original residence eventually came into view. It was lovely, especially when viewed through frames of centuries-old trees.

“That might be one of the most beautiful wooden buildings I’ve seen,” I told my husband. “I feel we’re on a Kurosawa set.”

He considered this for a moment with the seriousness of a man who has learned not to disagree too quickly. Then he said, “Except we’re staying in it tonight. Talk about lucky.”

Delivered with his usual flair for undercutting a moment just enough to keep it honest, his comment brought me back to appreciating the present — to this lovely heritage property that offered guests an authentic Japanese escape for a night or two.

TWO BUILDINGS, ONE CONVERSATION

Eventually we reached the newer building, circa 2008 minimalist villa created by architect Akira Watanabe to house eight equally minimalist guest rooms, the lobby, and the spa facilities.

I expected the usual combination of sculptural modern with a touch of wabi sabi that so many luxury hotels in Japan seem to love creating. Instead it was stark and simple, but also warm and inviting.

Akira Watanabe’s palette was unmistakably Japanese — cedar, clay, materials the color of tea and dusk light. However, the instinct underneath it felt oddly familiar. It took me most of the walk to place it.

“This looks like a Luis Barragan in neutral colors,” I said aloud, touching the walls that had been made using traditional wood-and-clay techniques. “Except it’s combined with wood.”

It turns out, my guess was not that far off. Watanabe was inspired by the sukiya style of design, which actually has much in common with Barragan’s own architectural philosophy: walled courtyards and shaded enclosures, light as an element rather than as something to be maximized, and discipline in line and shape. The building never tries to separate inside from outside. Even from the entrance, the garden seems to continue straight through the room.

THE LOBBY THAT ISN’T

Then, there’s the lobby — if “lobby” is even the correct word for a room that contains almost nothing.

I don’t believe I have ever stood in a hotel lobby this unabashedly spare. One two-seater sofa, angled at the pond. A single long wooden table lined with a row of straight back chairs. Beyond the glass, the garden simply continues, uninterrupted. As though the room itself were an afterthought to the view rather than the other way around. I suspect this was precisely the intention.

This kind of quiet restraint requires confidence. However, it creates the desired effect among guests. I sat facing the water and let the room do its work on me slowly. Most hotel lobbies are engineered to knock the wind out of you in the first ten seconds. This one waits patiently for the twentieth minute, and then it keeps going way past the fortieth. And still way past the 400th.

I passed this lobby perhaps ten times during my short stay. And each time I stopped to take photos because it changed with every minute, but remained lovely nonetheless. A different kind of perfect each time.

If I had to choose a single image to represent all of Numazu Club, it would be this lobby because it provides guests with the entire concept of the hotel within a few minutes of sitting down.

ROOM TO THINK — AND DREAM

Meanwhile, our room sat at the far end of a long corridor overlooking the pond. On the way there, we passed other rooms with couples or families sitting together also enjoying the views over drinks.

Inside, the room extended the same architectural conversation outward: warm timber, low light, a sitting area, bedroom, dining table, and a bathing room generous enough to make most Manhattan apartments blush.

Everything was simple and restful to the eyes. And each item had a purpose. There was no space here for anything unintentional.

Instinctively, I sat on the edge of one of the double beds and ran a hand across the linen.

“These sheets feel so pure,” I said. “Pure” is an absurd word to describe bed fabrics. However, I can think of no better description.

It was the first sentence I uttered in the room, and, oddly enough, it told me most of what I needed to know about the place. At Numazu Club, luxury is never announced at the door with a fruit basket and a laminated welcome card. It’s discovered — quietly, one detail at a time, usually right when you’ve stopped looking for it.

BLACK COTTON ON MY SHOPPING LIST

Our attendant reappeared with welcome drinks of freshly brewed ice green tea. Placing these on the table, she then gestured towards the open cabinet which held two sets of black cotton clothing.

“For meditation and tea this afternoon,” she said, in the tone of someone announcing something entirely ordinary.

The set was disarmingly simple — just like everything else we had discovered at Numazu Club so far. It consisted of a loose shirt, easy trousers, and a lightweight jacket. As soon as I put mine on, it felt so comfortable that I suddenly imagined a lifetime spent wearing it.

“Are these for sale?” I asked, already doing the math on how many I could plausibly need.

The attendant smiled with the particular patience of someone who has fielded this exact question many, many times before. “I’m afraid not.”

The moment she left, I turned to my husband with an impish look. “Perhaps I could just put these in my suitcase and they can charge it to the credit card later as a lost item.”

“Don’t even think about it,” he said. “Especially if you plan on returning.”

We’d just been at Numazu Club for an hour and already we both knew we were going to return someday soon. It’s the perfect place to forget about the rest of the world, even just for a weekend.

MOMENTS OF STILLNESS

Leaving the room in our requisite black cotton clothes — which, aside from being comfortable, felt so appropriate in this place that whispered welcome — we crossed the garden again towards the heritage building. We walked on moss-lined stone paths and even navigated a crossing over a small river, to reach an undistinguished room at the very end of the complex itself.

In Japan, undistinguished is a compliment. The most important things in this country try their very best to hide behind a veil of discretion, known only to a few.

It was the same with this small room with a view, once occupied by the owner’s mother. These days it serves a smaller, quieter purpose: meditation, tea, a deliberate pause wedged in before the rest of the afternoon is granted permission to happen.

Our attendant gestured towards two low antiques table in front of us which held the tea of our choice and a sweet. The choices were a black soybean came from Tanba, near Kyoto; the green tea from Shizuoka, and a varietal called saemidori, which when brewed at a lower temperature, turns almost sweet, closer to broth than tea.

“Which is healthiest?” I asked, because some habits die hard.

“The black soybean,” she said, without so much as a beat of consideration.

My husband reached for it before I’d finished the sentence. “I’ll have that.”

When the cups were finally set in front of us, I noticed them immediately.

“These are beautiful.”

“An artist in Izu makes them for us,” she said, turning one gently in her hand. “The clay comes from the grounds of Numazu Club.”

I looked down at what I was holding. The tea had been grown nearby. The bowl containing it had been fired from the estate’s own soil. Nobody had made a production of this fact, the way a lesser property might frame it on a laminated card at check-in. It simply *was* the fact — the whole experience quietly, thoroughly rooted in this one particular patch of earth, without a single word wasted advertising it.

A HOUSE OF BEAUTY AND HISTORY

Before heading back to our room to prepare for dinner, the attendant asked: “Would you like a tour of the heritage building?”

Of course we did.

The building, a registered tangible cultural property dates back to 1913. Constructed by Yuzaburo Kashiwagi, a master carpenter to the Tokugawa government. it is exquisite rather than beautiful.

Long hallways of tatami. Aged timber. Paper screens and windows with original glass and beautifully carved corners. Low ceilings. Modest rooms with calming light. Evidence of the original owner’s love for the tea ceremony everywhere. And always views of the garden wherever we looked.

A TALE OF TWO BUILDINGS

Afterward, we walked slowly back through the garden. By then, evening was getting on and dinner preparations were taking place in one wing of the old residence. Across the pond, the modern wing sat mirrored in the still water, its edges dissolving quietly into the dark, as if it, too, understood the assignment.

In my mind, the two buildings were conducting a long-running conversation. The new wing is similar and yet different from its ancestor — paper screens give way to glass, traditional proportions stretch into long horizontal lines — but the restraint carries over identically from one side of the property to the other. Neither building competes for your attention. Everything else is supporting cast.

One holds the estate’s memory. The other looks after its guests. Between them, the balance felt entirely deliberate — the hospitality equivalent of a very good tailor’s shoulder seam: you only notice it by its total absence of fuss. And omotenashi — the Japanese essence of luxury hospitality.

“I could live here,” I said to my husband.

He didn’t even flinch. “You’ve said that about a lot of hotels before.”

I turned to him.

“Yes,” I replied. “But this time I mean it.”

Tokyo, after all, is just over an hour away by bullet train.

FAST FACTS ABOUT NUMAZU CLUB

Address: 1907-8 Sembongorin, Numazu, Shizukoa, Japan

Driving Distance: Between two and three hours’ drive from Tokyo.

Nearest JR Station: Numazu Station

Nearest Shinkansen Station: Mishima Station

READ MORE ABOUT THE BEST HOTELS AND RYOKAN IN JAPAN IN TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE

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There is a particular kind of prestige that only time can confer.

The Fujiya Hotel understands this instinctively. Nestled in the mountain resort town of Hakone, this storied property has been receiving guests since the late nineteenth century — and it carries that history not as a burden but as a quiet credential, worn with the confidence of something that has never needed to prove itself.

I spent a long weekend in the heritage wing recently, and what struck me most was not the architecture, nor the hot spring waters, nor even the extraordinary dining room — though each deserves its own meditation. It was the atmosphere of unhurried permanence. In an industry increasingly governed by openings, rebrands, and renovations designed to generate coverage, Fujiya simply endures.

A Hotel That Wears Its Age Well

The corridors belong to another century. The woodwork speaks of craftsmanship that contemporary interiors rarely bother attempting. Where a more anxious property might have aggressively modernized, Fujiya has instead exercised the far greater discipline of restraint — refreshing without erasing, maintaining without embalming. The result is a hotel with genuine patina rather than the performative nostalgia that so many new luxury properties spend fortunes trying to simulate.

Those expecting the flawless surfaces of a newly opened resort will need to recalibrate their expectations — and their definition of luxury. The slight softening of edges here is not neglect. It is evidence. Nearly 150 years of guests arriving from Tokyo in search of mountain air and thermal waters have left their mark, and the hotel is better for it.

Dinner: An Occasion Worth Dressing For

The main dining room is the hotel’s undisputed centerpiece. An extraordinary hand-painted ceiling presides over the space, and dinner here quickly becomes something more ceremonial than culinary. The menu is classical and confident — no architectural plating, no twelve-course provocations — just the quiet assurance of a kitchen that knows exactly what it is.

Dress well. Order wine. Resist the impulse to rush.

By the time dessert arrives, you will have remembered something travel can occasionally make you forget: that an evening of simple, well-executed pleasure is among the finest things available to us.

Breakfast at the Imperial Villa: The Quieter Pleasure

The first meal of the day, however, belongs somewhere else entirely.

Across the road from the main building, the former Imperial Villa — managed by the hotel and available exclusively to its guests — offers an experience that serves as perfect counterpoint to the previous evening’s grandeur. This elegant structure once provided summer sanctuary for members of the Imperial Family, and the atmosphere of considered simplicity it cultivated then remains palpable now.

Old photographs and discreet period details tell their stories without demanding attention. A traditional Japanese breakfast taken here, surrounded by manicured gardens and a silence that feels genuinely earned, is one of the more quietly memorable hotel meals I have encountered anywhere in the country.

The Joys of Having a Hot Spring Tap in Your Room

A practical note worth underlining: every guest room draws directly from the hotel’s hot spring source. For international visitors uncertain about communal bathing, this is significant. Privacy and tradition need not be negotiated against each other. Fill the tub, open the window to the cool mountain air, and consider yourself fortunate.

It is a small luxury that proves, by the final morning, surprisingly difficult to leave behind.

A Place That Knows What It Is

The Fujiya Hotel will not suit every traveler. It is not immaculate in the way of a newly minted resort, and it does not aspire to be. Its rhythms are unhurried, its pleasures demand a certain willingness to slow down and meet them where they are.

For those who can, it offers something that money and newness alone cannot manufacture: a sense of genuine continuity with the past, and the rare comfort of a place that has never once lost the thread of what it set out to be.

That is, in the end, a form of luxury all its own.

The Fujiya Hotel: A Brief History

The Fujiya Hotel was founded in 1878 by Sennosuke Yamaguchi, making it one of Japan’s oldest Western-style hotels and among the first to actively court international visitors during the Meiji era — a period of rapid modernization in which Japan was opening itself to the world after centuries of near-total isolation.

Its location in Hakone, a mountainous resort region roughly 80 kilometers southwest of Tokyo, was no accident. The area’s volcanic landscape had long made it a destination for those seeking the therapeutic benefits of its abundant hot springs, and the new railway connections of the era made it newly accessible to both domestic and foreign travelers.

Over the decades, the hotel accumulated a remarkable guest register. Charlie Chaplin stayed here. John Lennon and Yoko Ono were regulars. Several sitting American presidents have been among its visitors, as have members of Japan’s Imperial Family — hence the adjacent Imperial Villa, which the hotel now manages.

The property sustained significant damage during the Second World War and was subsequently requisitioned for use by Allied occupation forces before being returned and restored. A major renovation completed in 2020 addressed structural and cosmetic concerns while deliberately preserving the hotel’s historic character.

Today the Fujiya operates across several wings of varying vintage, with the oldest heritage rooms offering the most direct connection to the hotel’s nineteenth-century origins. It remains privately managed and family-affiliated — a rarity in an industry increasingly dominated by global chains — and continues to occupy a singular place in the story of Japanese hospitality.

READ MORE ABOUT THE MOST UNIQUE PLACES TO STAY IN JAPAN IN TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE

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Every serious traveler has, at least once, chased a legend — a restaurant whispered about in quiet reverence, a table that seems to exist outside ordinary geography.

We flew into Japan one summer afternoon just to have lunch at a restaurant that had captured the attention of food lovers everywhere. To eat at Yanagiya, we first landed in Nagoya, a vibrant city in central Japan. From there, we stayed overnight and caught a local train the next morning to a tiny station in Gifu Prefecture.

When the train finally slowed to a stop in the quiet town of Mizunami, a waiting van whisked us away. We drove through rice fields shimmering in the heat and winding country roads lined with cedar trees. After half an hour, the van turned up a narrow hill, and there it was — a quiet farmhouse framed by forest, bathed in summer light.

A Hidden Masterpiece in the Countryside

Yanagiya could pass for any rural home in Japan. Its low wooden roof and sliding doors reveal nothing of the reputation it holds. Yet inside this unassuming farmhouse lies one of the most revered dining experiences in the world.

For years, despite its secluded location and its formidable price, Yanagiya has reigned near the top of Tabelog, Japan’s most respected restaurant review site. Among those who follow the culinary world closely, that ranking alone is enough to make it a pilgrimage. Japan’s standards for dining are famously exacting — so when locals agree that something is extraordinary, you listen.

At first glance, Yanagiya’s simplicity is disarming. But the family who runs it understands quiet drama. The meal unfolds not with spectacle, but with devotion.

Around the Irori Fire

In the heart of the room burns the irori, an open-hearth sand pit once found in every farmhouse. Here, eight river fish are staked upright around the glowing charcoal, their salt-crusted skins turning slowly to bronze. The sight is almost ceremonial — part sculpture, part memory of old Japan.

The chef worked in near silence, adjusting each skewer by instinct rather than timing. “My grandfather started the restaurant,” he told us, never pausing. “But it was my father who began cooking with the irori. A customer from the local bank suggested it to him.” His movements were as calm as the firelight that danced on the walls.

The Taste of Summer: Ayu

The first course was ayu, Japan’s beloved river fish. Grilled over the embers, it was delicate and clean, its sweetness deepened by the salt. Ayu is a symbol of summer here — fleeting, refined, and always tied to the season’s flow.

We dipped it into a sharp sauce of herbs and vinegar, then ate it whole, head to tail. The flavor was so subtle it felt almost like an emotion — something sensed rather than tasted. Locals say foreigners often miss its nuance. We didn’t. Every piece was a small revelation, especially the final dish: ayu deep-fried in the thinnest tempura batter, crisp as parchment.

Wild Game, Reimagined

Still, the highlight of the meal came later — the grilled game. Yanagiya is famous for it. The restaurant sources its wild boar and venison from hunters in the surrounding forests, but only accepts animals that have been killed cleanly. The family insists on this. A single misplaced shot, they say, can taint the purity of the meat.

The difference is unmistakable. The venison arrived tender and fragrant, tasting of mountain air and wood smoke. The wild boar was deeper, almost sweet. There was no heaviness, no trace of gaminess — only the pure, clean flavor of the countryside. It was better than beef, and more honest. I could have eaten another plate, but here, extra orders are not part of the ritual.

The Clockwork of a Perfect Meal

Meals at Yanagiya follow a quiet rhythm. There is no menu and no negotiation. Each course flows naturally into the next, ending exactly at three o’clock in the afternoon. When the last bite was served, the family gathered outside the door, bowing gently as each guest left.

Dessert, as always, was a small sweet — delicate, unassuming, and enough. Outside, the air was still thick with the scent of charcoal. We boarded the van back to Mizunami Station in silence, too content for words.

At the station, ritual gave way to reality. We bought ice creams from a tiny kiosk for a single coin — cold, sweet, and perfectly ordinary. It was the ideal ending to an extraordinary meal.

Quick Info: Yanagiya

Restaurant: Yanagiya

Location: Mizunami, Gifu Prefecture, Japan

Cuisine: Traditional Japanese countryside cooking (Irori-grilled fish and wild game)

Price Range: ¥15,000–¥20,000 per person

Reservations: Required, often months in advance

Access: About 20 minutes by taxi or shuttle from Mizunami Station

Tabelog Page: https://s.tabelog.com/en/gifu/A2103/A210301/21000023/

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you book Yanagiya?

Reservations are essential and can be made only by phone or through a Japanese-speaking contact. Bookings open several months ahead and fill quickly.

What is the signature dish at Yanagiya?

The restaurant is best known for irori-grilled ayu (sweetfish) in summer and wild game such as boar and venison in winter.

Does Yanagiya serve dessert?

The meal traditionally ends with a small sweet rather than a Western-style dessert. Diners often stop by the station shop afterward for ice cream.

Is Yanagiya worth the journey?

Completely. The food, setting, and precision of the experience make it one of Japan’s most authentic and unforgettable meals.

Ready for an Andalusian Foodtrip?

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I was intrigued when I first heard about Nagatacho Ohka. This private restaurant in Tokyo has no website and no public phone number. At first, I expected little more than exclusivity. However, I was unprepared to be amazed.

After all, I have stayed in some of the best hotels in the world and dined at the finest restaurants. My standards are high. Even so, my interest was piqued.

On a recent stopover in Tokyo, I accepted an invitation to dinner from Christine Cunanan, the director of Nagatacho Ohka. She lives mainly in Tokyo, yet also owns La Esperanza Granada, a luxury hacienda-style hotel in Southern Spain that was recently awarded Best of the Best for 2025 by Trip Advisor, placing it in one of the top 1% of all lodgings worldwide.

READ MORE ABOUT LA ESPERANZA GRANADA, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLA IN ANDALUCIA

A BEAUTIFUL HOUSE IN TOKYO

Nagatacho Ohka sits in a 100-year-old wooden building near the official residence of the Prime Minister of Japan. Previously, it was a famous soba and shabu shabu restaurant owned by the family of Akira Kurosawa, Japan’s most celebrated film director.

The restaurant closed during the pandemic. During that time, Christine Cunanan and her partners took over the space. They renovated the entire building to the highest standards, working with some of the finest craftsmen in Japan. “We didn’t really have a budget in mind when we renovated this,” said Christine. “We just wanted to be the best dining experience in Japan.”

THE BEST OF JAPANESE FOOD

And indeed, the result exceeded my already high expectations. Every design detail felt impeccable. From the start, the long, dark bar — inspired by a Kyoto machiya townhouse — made a statement. 

Meanwhile, the lively open-plan Chef’s Counter seated 15 guests in an atmosphere of energy and warmth.

Upstairs, four private rooms awaited. Each carried a different mood and theme, yet all were beautiful. If you asked mewhich one was best, I would have no answer. It truly depends on who you are with and what kind of mood you are in.

Q&A with Christine Cunanan, Director of Nagatacho Ohka

Q: Is it true that Nagatacho Ohka is the best restaurant in Tokyo?

A: I like to think so. There are very few restaurants in Tokyo — if not in the world — that are private and non-commercial. Without the pressures of a commercial establishment, we are free to offer the best dining experience possible. Many guests afterwards tell me that dinner at our restaurant was one of the best food experiences they’ve had.

Q: If you are the best restaurant in Tokyo, are you also the most expensive?

A: We are definitely not cheap. But price is relative. However I can 100% confirm that most foreign guests feel satisfied with their experience because they oftentimes return on their next visit to Japan, and sometimes even twice or thrice on the same visit. This would not happen so often if guests did not feel we offer value.

No restaurant will be able to please everyone, especially as the value of a dinner depends on the perceptions of each person and his or her personal circumstances. However, most of our guests are very happy with the Nagatacho Ohka experience.

Q: Some people are wondering why they see so few Japanese guests compared to foreigners.

A: First, we tend to put foreigners in our first floor Chef’s Counter because they like sitting around the counter and watching the chefs. Meanwhile, Japanese guests are usually regulars who have their favorite rooms for entertaining on the second floor. They rarely book the chef’s counter because they prefer to dine in privacy. For this reason, a diner eating at our Chef’s Counter will probably see mostly other foreigners dining in the restaurant. The Japanese members are all in the private rooms upstairs.

Second, we are a private restaurant and we have decided to accept only Japanese diners who are friends or associates of our restaurant partners. It is a very strict policy because the owners want to relax only with people they know. Currently, the restaurant caters to only 50 Japanese and their friends and associates.

Meanwhile, foreign guests can eat at Nagatacho Ohka on an introduction basis. For example, if you know me or someone I know, or if you are a guest of one of our luxury travel partners, then you are able to easily book at Nagatacho Ohka as long as we have availability. So the window is larger as many of Tokyo’s top hotels such as the Four Seasons, Bulgari Hotel, Aman Tokyo, Janu Tokyo and the Park Hyatt Tokyo send their guests to us.

THE WORLD’S ONLY JAPANESE LACQUER ROOM

For dinner, we began in the Urushi no Heya, said to be the world’s only Japanese lacquer room. Frankly, it was stunning. A long lacquer dining table dominated the space. The ceiling, also covered in lacquer, glowed with elegance. Most impressive, a golden peacock stretched across the room — etched in delicate detail and mirrored above. You have to see itto truly appreciate its beauty.

Dinner itself was unforgettable. At Nagatacho Ohka, there is no set menu. Instead, chefs — many trained in Michelin-starred restaurants — roll out wagons filled with seafood, vegetables, and the finest beef in Japan. Yes, the finest beef, and not just A5 wagyu.

This beef comes from a farm in Kagoshima, southern Japan, recognized by the Japanese beef industry as producing the nation’s #1 meat. From these ingredients, chefs and guests create a menu together. Diners share their wishes, and the chefs suggest dishes. For my part, I asked for the house specialties, steak, and garlic rice.

WONDERFUL BEGINNINGS AT NAGATACHO OHKA

But first came the appetizers, paired with flutes of sparkling sake. “We also have champagne,” Christine explained, “but really good sparkling sake is rare outside Japan. I always recommend it to foreign guests.”

We began with caviar tucked inside a cheese-flavored brioche bun. (Who would have guessed this pairing would work so perfectly?) Next, a delicate sandwich of chateaubriand from the Kagoshima farm appeared. After that, I enjoyed slices of tender abalone with thick seaweed sauce and sushi rice.

By then, I was already happy. Every bite felt like a promise of what was still to come.

THE FIRST DREAM MENU

But this was not dinner yet. It was only the beginning. The rest of the meal unfolded like a dream.

We began with two kinds of sashimi, lightly seared over charcoal and seasoned only with salt. There was no need for soy sauce. The fish included black throat (nodoguro) and golden eye (kinmeidai), both delicate and flavorful.

Next came a traditional Japanese clear soup. It featured a perfectly filleted slice of spring fish (amadai) and a crisp tempura of vegetables and swordfish. The swordfish tempura was unforgettable — light, crunchy, and full of flavor.

THE MAIN EVENTS

After that, we tasted buttery Hokkaido scallops, sautéed and topped with rosemary purée. Then came something unexpected: an original pasta made from live French lobster, with noodles shaped like a cone. At first glance, I would never have guessed it was pasta.

Finally, a beautiful steak arrived, paired with fresh wasabi and sea salt from Himeji in Western Japan. A bowl of garlic rice sat on the side. I said “finally” because I thought the meal was over.

To my surprise, Christine handed me another menu. “This is our comfort food menu,” she said. “Japanese love to end a fancy meal with comfort food, so we offer soba and even spaghetti Napolitan. You cannot leave without trying them.”

HOW TO CREATE A DREAM DINNER

We ended up ordering about seven dishes from the comfort food menu, and every single one was delicious. The soba, for example, is prepared by a famous soba master who works full-time onsite. He has been making soba for more than thirty years. His handmade noodles, mixed with 80% buckwheat flour, are so delicate it is hard to believe they are cut by hand.

Other standouts included omelette rice made with egg yolks the color of golden sunshine, a crisp minced meat cutlet, and the signature spaghetti Napolitan. As food lovers know, this dish does not exist in Italy. It was invented in Japan long ago, based on what people imagined Italians ate. In truth, there is no spaghetti Napolitan in Italy, so Japan is the only place you can enjoy it.

At Nagatacho Ohka, the version is addictive. The pasta has just the right touch of spiciness, with thin slices of sausage folded into the sauce. And for those who prefer extra heat, a bottle of Tabasco comes on the side — exactly the way it was served in Japanese coffee shops decades ago, before Tokyo became the cosmopolitan city it is today.

WHERE TO EAT SPAGHETTI NAPOLITAN IN TOKYO

As food lovers know, there is no such thing as spaghetti Napolitan in Italy. This pasta was created in Japan decades ago, inspired by what people imagined Italians ate. In truth, the dish does not exist in Italy, so Japan is the only place where you can enjoy it.

At Nagatacho Ohka, their version is irresistible. The pasta has just the right level of spiciness, with thin slices of sausage mixed into the sauce. For those who like extra heat, a bottle of Tabasco comes on the side. This detail reflects tradition, since spaghetti Napolitan was once served the same way in Japanese coffee shops before Tokyo grew into the cosmopolitan city it is today.

SWEET ENDINGS AT NAGATACHO OHKA

Nagatacho Ohka also offers a long dessert menu. After such a feast, I chose a simple medley of homemade ice cream in original flavors.

First, a refreshing plum and perilla leaf sorbet acted as a palate cleanser. Next, came a creamy kinako ice cream, flavored with roasted soybean flour. After that, a Japanese cinnamon ice cream arrived, with crunchy bits of bark folded in. Finally, the matcha ice cream closed the meal. Matcha is common in Japan and abroad, but this version used the highest grade of green tea. The taste balanced perfectly between subtle sweetness and refined bitterness.

Just like everything else at Nagatacho Ohka, the desserts were better than expected.

(Guests staying at top Tokyo hotels like Aman, Bulgari, Janu, the Grand Hyatt, the New Otani and the Ritz Carlton, among others, can book Nagatacho Ohka through their concierge. Or you can message Christine Cunanan on LinkedIn and tell her you read about the restaurant in my LinkedIn post.)

READ MORE ABOUT THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN TOKYO IN TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE

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Kenninji Temple was founded in 1202 and is said to be where Zen (which originated from China) was first taught in Japan. Inside the temple grounds, there are several shrines and sub-temples, and is the perfect shortcut for guests staying at the hotel to walk to the main shopping street (Shijo-dori (四条通).

Entry to Kenninji Temple grounds is free, and it actually feels like a private extension of the hote due to its proximity from the hotel main entrance. The ambiance of the neighbourhood’s peacefulness is great for anyone keen to escape the adjoining crowded Hanamikoji street, known for its well-restored traditional wooden merchant houses and tea houses where Geishas perform.

Attention to detail

The hotel rooms are cleverly designed to create a meditative setting and the first thing one will see upon entering the room is the teapot set. The rooms are spacious, and the wet and dry areas of the bathroom are separate,

Around the hotel, tea is a central theme – and there are two guest rooms named “Tea Room” that can be booked for a stay –  whereby guests will enjoy a private matcha experience by Ippodo, Kyoto’s most known Japanese tea specialty store.

AFTERNOON TEA IN KYOTO

The Celestine has a gallery-like guest lounge – an afternoon tea room which transforms into a bar at night from 7pm onwards. In the day, hotel guests can enjoy complimentary refreshments like coffee and tea, along with some Japanese snacks, while enjoying a quiet break in between sightseeing. I noticed the curated collection of Kyoto books and magazines, and enjoyed browsing them one of the afternoons when we came back early.

I stayed at the hotel with my mom in July (during the Gion Matsuri Festival, also known as the midsummer festival. Again, the tiny touch to include information in the lobby about the festival for guests was something i appreciated.

I also loved how easy it was to walk over to the main shrine of the festival – Yasaka Shrine

Dining at Yasaka Endo

We enjoyed our breakfast at the hotel which probably serves the best Tempura for breakfast in Kyoto, mainly because they use a traditional copper hooded fryer. The breakfast area is connected to the world reknowned Yasaka Endo restaurant that seats only 16 guests in the main dining area and we found out the traditional sukiya-style wooden building was once an ochaya (teahouse) for geisha parties,

Of course we had to try lunch and we were seated at the counter and had a choice of one of two set menus. which either a 6-course or 8-course menu. With a history of over 100 years,- it was founded in Gion in 1885, and as I watched the chefs delicately preparing each dish, I came to appreciate the success and longevity of the restraunt.

Each dish was so beautiful, it was almost like I was eating an artwork!

Spatial Healing

Mom and I found our hideaway space in the public bath of The Celestine hotel. Open from 15:00 to 10:00 the next day, we were able to find some time where we had the place all to ourselves. The peacefulness from spending time in the public bath was such a pleasure that we found ourselves waking up early one morning, so we could enjoy more of the private time.

I like that the hotel’s design cleverly ensures that there are pockets of spaces that ensure that not one place feels crowded.

I’m definitely looking forward to my next trip back to Kyoto, and for anyone looking to spend time with their parent, the intimacy of the hotel helps foster closer bonds.

For easy accesibiliy, the hotel arranges shuttle tranfers to and from Kyoto station. I definitely recommend a stay at The Celestine Kyoto Gion because they have thought of everything a hotel guest would need, and devliered above and beyond.

Read more about the best hotels in Japan in Travelife Magazine

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GREAT EXPECTATIONS

On my way up, I was of course anticipating a beautiful hotel typical of
the Aman group. And perhaps more so in this case, as the bar to impress guests is certainly higher in Tokyo, the city with the most number of “Aman junkies” in the world.

“I was completely unprepared for the cavernous space of light, 30 meters high, that awaited me once the elevator doors opened. Talk about making first impressions count.”

Tokyo is also ground zero for design and technology pushed to the limit. So the pressure was definitely laid thick on Aman to come up with a Tokyo property that would dazzle. Moreover, it had to do so in a most subtle way — if this is even possible. After all, most of its jaded guests have already stayed in amazing hotels all over the world.

READ ABOUT THE BEST NEW HOTEL IN SPAIN

THE LOBBY OF AMAN TOKYO

I was one of these jaded guests and these were my lofty expectations. However, surprise greeted me upon arrival. I’ve stayed everywhere wonderful, but I was completely unprepared for the cavernous space of light, 30 meters high, that awaited me once the elevator doors opened. This was the lobby. Talk about making first impressions count.

Quite unlike any other hotel lobby in Tokyo, this is literally the equivalent of eight floors of space and soft bright light that deliberately extends one’s vision all the way to the top.

WHAT TO DO WITH WASHI PAPER

Then the designers covered the walls of about six of these floors in textured “washi” paper. They stretched these on a wooden shoji frame to resemble a traditional Japanese paper lantern. This gave the lobby an aura of unearthliness appropriate for a hotel so high up.

Meanwhile, at eye level, a calm pool of water lay at the center of attention. This was located somewhere between polished wood, rough grey stone, two Zen rock gardens and a mammoth arrangement of fragile ikebana-inspired greenery.

Then there were the views to take your breath away if you still had any left. I saw the breadth and width of the Tokyo skyline before me. This certainly made for a good combination of earth, sky, and, of course, luxury.

THE PERFECT FIT

Admittedly, this truly 21st century hotel is not for everyone. However minimalists and enthusiasts for Japanese design will immediately appreciate its aesthetics. It is stark, crisp and so seamless. Like a simple but perfectly cut little black designer dress.

READ ABOUT THE AMANEMU IN ISE

At least, this is how I felt, checking in one recent Sunday to happily call Aman Tokyo my home for four days. I was already sufficiently enamored at the outset. Nevertheless, this hotel grows on you and ends up fitting your lifestyle. By the end of my stay, I most definitely would have stayed four months or four years instead of four days — had my credit card allowed this.

Read more about the best hotels and resorts in Japan in Travelife Magazine.

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Our individual approach means no two private tours of Japan are alike and we do design the best Japan tours.

HOW WE WORK

We create a trip for you alone. The ideal time frame for creating the perfect trip is six months. However, we can work on your schedule and can quickly come up with itineraries for you to review and choose from. If you’re in a hurry, we can assist you in creating the best Japan tour in just one week.

CONTACT US TO BEGIN PLANNING YOUR TRIP

HOW TO START

Contact us here with your details. It’s best if you already have a firm arrival and departure date in mind because we only plan hotels or book restaurants and experiences based on firm flight details.

Let us know your wishlist too. Where you would like to go, what you want to do and eat, and even your bucket-list ideas. The more specific you are, the better. This will enable us to zoom in quickly on the perfect tour of Japan for you. Not just for anyone, but for you.

Some of the most popular destinations include Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Hakone and Hokkaido. However there are so many other wonderful places to visit in Japan such as Nara, Kanazawa, Hiroshima and Nagasaki. This is where our expertise will come in handy. We can advise you on the best combinations to save you time, effort and money.

TRAVEL STYLE

Tell us too about your travel style so we can adjust our planning. These are some choices to think about:

SKY’S THE LIMIT: Your wish is our command. Whatever you want, we’ll find it for you — whether it’s the best place to eat wagyu, the fanciest suite, the most exclusive experiences that tourists ordinarily cannot book on their own. This is the bucket-list trip with sightseeing tailored to your interests.

LUXURY: Top five-star hotels and Michelin-star restaurants, private guides and exclusive experiences tailored to your interests.

UPMARKET: Five-star or four-star hotels, great local restaurants, interesting experiences tailored to your interests.

VALUE: Comfortable three-star hotels as near to the city center as possible, casual restaurants, minimal private guides accompanying you for sightseeing tailored to your interests.

CONTACT US TO BEGIN PLANNING YOUR TRIP

TRAVEL PACE

RELAXED: Departures at 10 AM, nice long lunches, one or two sightseeing and experiences on a half-day basis, with the rest of the day free for shopping or just relaxing.

STANDARD: Departures at 930 AM, sightseeing or experiences in the mornings and afternoon, nice long lunch.

BUSY: Departures at 9 AM and then you’re off on a packed schedule of sightseeing and experiences. Lunch is delicious but it’s usually for an hour as this pace is for guests who wish to see as much as possible during their stay.

LOGISTICS

Prices depend on the number of guests and how many rooms you plan to take on a single or double/ twin occupancy basis. The more specific you are, the easier it will be for us to generate an accurate estimate of your tour expenses.

CLICK HERE TO READ MORE ABOUT JAPAN

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During my week-long stay at the Peninsula Tokyo, breakfast became the highlight of each day. I had ordered it through room service, and it always arrived perfectly presented, tray by tray, as though each morning were its own private ceremony. What made it truly extraordinary, however, was the setting.

From the windows of my corner suite, I enjoyed sweeping 180-degree views over the Imperial Palace gardens and Hibiya Park. In Tokyo, where few hotels can offer such uninterrupted panoramas, this felt like a privilege. Morning light poured across the treetops, the palace moat shimmered below, and the city seemed to open itself just for me. To savor breakfast against this backdrop was to experience one of the most exquisite luxuries Tokyo has to offer.

A Japanese Breakfast by a Michelin-Starred Chef

Then, of course, there was the breakfast itself. I chose the traditional Japanese breakfast, and it rivaled the meals served at the finest ryokan in Japan. Yet here, at the Peninsula Tokyo, it came with a unique distinction.

The menu had been created by Kazuo Takagi, the acclaimed two-Michelin-star chef behind Takagi in Kobe. His restaurant is a landmark in Ashiya, one of Japan’s most refined and desirable districts, known for its quiet wealth and impeccable taste. To find his culinary philosophy translated into a hotel breakfast in Tokyo was both unexpected and unforgettable. Each dish reflected balance, seasonality, and the understated elegance that defines true Japanese cuisine.

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What’s in a Japanese Breakfast?

The Japanese breakfast at The Peninsula Tokyo arrived in a lacquered box, each compartment holding something delicate and precise. There were both cooked and cold dishes, including a silken piece of steamed eggplant, seasonal vegetables, and small bites designed to awaken the palate.

At the center of the tray was the star: a piece of perfectly grilled salmon, its skin crisp, its flesh tender and glistening. Alongside came the staples of every Japanese morning — a bowl of fluffy white rice and a steaming cup of miso soup. Simple, yes, but elevated in every detail.

Everything about the presentation reflected the philosophy of Chef Kazuo Takagi: balance, restraint, and respect for the ingredients. This was not just hotel dining. It was a breakfast that rivaled what you might be served in a traditional ryokan— yet here, framed by views of the Imperial Palace gardens, it felt utterly unique.

Western Breakfast at the Peninsula Tokyo

Although I ordered the Japanese breakfast most mornings, I occasionally switched to the Western menu. The Peninsula Tokyo breakfast offers several tempting choices, each prepared with the same attention to detail.

My favorite quickly became the eggs benedict, which I would argue is among the very best in Tokyo. Instead of the usual thin slice of ham, it came with thick, juicy bacon — perfectly seared and full of flavor. The poached eggs were set on a sourdough bun with just the right chew, its crust crisp and its center soft. The hollandaise sauce tied it all together with a rich, silky finish. It was indulgent yet balanced, the kind of breakfast you look forward to from the moment you wake up.

What’s a Chinese Breakfast Like?

The Peninsula Tokyo honors its Hong Kong heritage with a Chinese breakfast option. The meal begins with a warm, fragrant bowl of congee, paired with traditional condiments. Servers bring a bamboo basket filled with dim sum — delicate siomai and pillowy siopao — steamed to perfection.

During my week-long stay, I alternated between all three breakfast styles: the elegance of the Japanese set, the indulgence of the Western menu, and the comforting flavors of the Chinese offering. Each morning unfolded as a new journey, showing that at the Peninsula Tokyo, breakfast celebrates the world on a single table.

From Breakfast to Lunch at The Peninsula Tokyo

We savored breakfast at the Peninsula Tokyo for hours, enjoying every bite and every view. By the time we finished, lunchtime had arrived — the perfect moment to continue indulging inside one of the best hotels in Tokyo.

The dim sum at Hei Fung Terrace delivers another highlight. The hotel’s signature Cantonese restaurant pairs refined interiors with exquisite food. Chefs craft each basket of dim sum with precision, creating bites that are delicate, flavorful, and beautifully presented. The meal carries you smoothly from breakfast into lunch, turning an ordinary day into a celebration of taste.

Read more about the best hotels in Japan in Travelife Magazine.

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What began as the thought of a simple snack soon turned into one of the most elegant surprises of our trip — a full afternoon tea in Hakone’s mountains. At the Hyatt Regency Hakone Resort and Spa, a modern retreat with hot springs and pet-friendly rooms, the lounge was anything but quiet. On the ground floor, the glow of a giant fireplace lit up a crowd of cheerful guests, all gathered for a ritual of tea, champagne, and conversation.

A Warm Welcome at the Hyatt Regency in Hakone

“What’s happening over there?” I asked the bell boy, who was carefully handling our luggage. The welcoming team immediately set the tone for our stay, their cheerful smiles and crisp blue-and-white uniforms radiating warmth and polish.

“As you’ll be here for several days, you simply must try our afternoon tea,” he replied with a knowing grin. “It’s one of our most popular experiences. Many of our returning guests make sure to reserve it as soon as they book their rooms.”

That was all the encouragement we needed.

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Afternoon Tea in Hakone

Drawn by the promise of tiers of delicate savories, jewel-like pastries, and pots of fragrant tea, we joined the lively crowd in the lounge. The Hyatt Regency Hakone’s afternoon tea is more than a meal—it is a ritual in itself. Guests settle into deep chairs, conversation flows as smoothly as the champagne, and every plate seems touched with artistry.

Set against the serene backdrop of Hakone’s mountains, the experience feels both indulgent and restorative. Time slows here. Between each sip and bite, you feel the world recede just a little further away.

Starting with Ruinart Champagne

Considering we were high in the mountains of Hakone, the afternoon tea felt especially indulgent. We began with flutes of Ruinart champagne, one of France’s finest, and the crisp bubbles set the tone for everything that followed. It was an unexpected touch of Parisian elegance in a Japanese mountain retreat — the perfect prelude to towers of savory bites, delicate pastries, and steaming pots of tea.

First came the scones, still warm from the oven. They arrived with clotted cream, golden butter, and a trio of jams — the essentials of any proper afternoon tea. Breaking one open and watching the steam curl into the air felt like the most comforting luxury.

Then the waitstaff presented multi-tiered trays, each one carefully arranged with a mix of savory bites and jewel-like pastries. It was as much an aesthetic feast as a culinary one. For a moment, no one moved; the trays looked too perfect to disturb, as though each piece had been placed to be admired before tasted.

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Western elegance, Japanese hospitality

As the afternoon lingered on, I realized that this was more than just tea and pastries. It was a ritual of comfort, crafted high in the mountains of Japan. Afternoon tea at the Hyatt Regency Hakone blends Western elegance with Japanese hospitality, turning a simple pause in the day into something memorable. Surrounded by views of Hakone’s green hills, the scent of wood smoke, and the gentle hum of conversation around the fireplace, I felt time slow down.

In that moment, afternoon tea became what it should always be — not just food, but a way to savor place, season, and company. And in Hakone, that ritual felt especially luxurious.

Read more about the best hotels and resorts in Japan in Travelife Magazine.

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The Park Hyatt Kyoto is a wonderful blend of modern and traditional. It’s located in one of the loveliest neighborhoods of Kyoto, near the Kiyomizudera and the Yasaka Shrine. It is also at the doorstep of the old entertainment district of Gion, home to the geisha and maiko. There are not a few famous restaurants and tea houses in this area too. Because of this, it’s a joy to walk around even late at night.

The hotel also has amazing provenance because of its relationship with the legendary Kyoyamato Restaurant of Kyoto. This is a traditional kaiseki restaurant that has been serving fine Japanese food since 1877. The current owners belong to the sixth generation of the original family.

This association with Kyoyamato has also provided many benefits to the Park Hyatt Kyoto. For one thing, the hotel has access to some of the best artisans of Kyoto, many of whom already have some relationship with the Kyoyamato.

THE BEST ARTISANS OF KYOTO

The Park Hyatt Kyoto uses these traditional Kyoto crafts throughout the hotel. For example, the Kyoto Bistro is the hotel’s casual cafe with an entrance right along the Ninenzaka Street. It’s known for comfort food which can be enjoyed in the restaurant or ordered as take-out.

This cafe uses tea cups and bowls called Asahiyaki. Asahiyaki dates back 400 years. It’s currently produced at a pottery kiln in a city called Uji, which is near Kyoto.

WHERE TO FIND YOHEN TENMOKU TEA BOWLS IN KYOTO

The hotel also uses Tenmoku tea bowls. These are beautiful pottery with incandescent colors that change hues depending on the light reflected on it. The highest quality Tenmoku tea bowls are the Yohen Tenmoku, and Takeshi Furukawa is one of the rising potters in this field.

These much admired bowls have an 800-year history, and these have been created amidst much secrecy. Only the potters themselves know the exact formula for creating the beautiful glaze of the Yohen Tenmoku. However, it is common knowledge that Yohen Tenmoku bowls are made with natural soil rich in iron and then glazed with oxidized metals.

KANAYA COPPER CRAFTS IN KYOTO

Meanwhile, many of the copper items used by the Park Hyatt Kyoto have been created by Kanaya Gorosaburo XVI. Kanaya-san is heir to a long and revered tradition of copper making. His family has been involved in this craft for over 400 years.

Kyoto is a conservative city that does not easily welcome newcomers. So most new hotels — especially foreign ones — may find it hard to become involved in its old traditions. However, because of its association with the Kyoyamato, the hotel enjoys the equivalent of a hotline to some of the best artisans of Kyoto.

Read more about the best hotels in Japan in Travelife Magazine.

Photos credit : Park Hyatt Kyoto

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