This is a story about my many holidays in the beautiful city of Istanbul, capital of Turkey. In particular, it’s about my  many visits to the grand Topkapi Palace over the years, and my memories associated with it.

There are some places you just never tire of. For me, the 15th century Topkapi Palace perched on a look-out, on top of a hill in the Old Town of Istanbul, is one of these. It’s a place I have visited more times than I can count. But I still remember the first time I visited Istanbul, even if this was over 20 years ago.

At that time, Istanbul was a beautiful city of ancient markets, palaces, and mosques caught in an amazing time warp. And everyday images were like scenes from the pages of the Bible. I too was a very different person then; young and hungry for adventure.

SWEET RETURN TO ISTANBUL

Ten years later, I found myself back again, in this grand home of the Ottoman sultans; this time with a group of Travelife Magazine readers who had joined our tour of Turkey. Of course, the Topkapi Palace was one of our stops.

Since I’d seen the buildings and the displays before, I spent the morning in the open-air coffee shop overlooking the Bosphorus. From here, I could see the Princes’ Islands in the distance. I remember thinking then about how life must be savored with relish and without hesitation because none of us really know what the future holds.

ABOUT THE TOPKAPI PALACE AND THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE

The Ottoman empire is the perfect example of how neither the past nor the present is a guarantee for the future. Over a cup of Turkish coffee, I sat in the autumn sunshine feeling joyously alive in this historic palace that had witnessed the rise and fall of great civilizations.

More recently, two memorable occasions brought me back to the Topkapi Palace, making me feel like this palace has accompanied me along the chapters of my own life. Each time I pass through its threshold, following in the footsteps of the sultans and his learned men, I have been a little older and wiser; and more grateful for the lucky cards that Life has handed me. I have also been more accepting of the inevitable twists and turns that have accompanied these.

CELEBRATING LIFE IN TURKEY

Two years ago, I spent a milestone birthday in Istanbul, gathering loved ones to stay nearby at the Four Seasons Sultanahmet which, incidentally, is one of my favorite hotels in the world.

For one happy week in Istanbul, we sailed around the Bosphorus on a private yacht, walked the streets of Sultanahmet, and of course revisited the Topkapi Palace. The allure of the Topkapi Palace truly never fades.

LONG WEEKEND IN TURKEY

Then, just the other month, I was back in my beloved Istanbul for a weekend in the Old Town. For three magical days, we revisited and rediscovered all the places that I had already seen perhaps two dozen times before. 

The Topkapi Palace was its usual 500-year-old self: stately, elegant, and graceful. But this time, it was I who had changed. Between these two visits, my life had turned upside down and I now saw everything and everyone with new eyes and fresh perspectives.

EXPERIENCING MINDFULNESS

Suddenly, everything was precious, including a glimpse of the sun shining ever so perfectly on the intricate roof of the sultan’s pleasure pavilion. I also remember clearly the moment I observed the majestic way an ancient tree by the entrance to the harem spread its branches protectively over it.

Of course, I tried to remember the colorful details of the tiles in the grand rooms, the designs of the sultan’s porcelain collection, and the effortless symmetry of every room and building. This is what all visitors to the Topkapi Palace do. But on this most recent trip, what I wanted most was to cherish the moment itself.

THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE

You see, I happily realized that the Topkapi Palace will always be there, serving as a reminder of the greatness of Istanbul and the Ottoman civilization.

But in the future, perhaps I would not be walking its courtyards in the same frame of mind or even with the same companions. I am sure this palace and I will meet again many more times; but the next time I cross its threshold, the world will have changed, as it continuously does, and I along with it. 

And these changes will make all the difference to me. Read more articles about Istanbul in Travelife Magazine.

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For the past few mornings I’ve been enjoying a leisurely breakfast right by the sea at the Four Seasons Bosphorus in Istanbul.

Having been to Istanbul many times, I am doing very little tourist sightseeing on this trip. All I really want to do this time around is to take it easy and to check out the cool new shops, coffee places and restaurants that have sprouted up since I was last here about two years ago.

And to catch up with some friends in Turkey. I’m having dinner with some of them at one of my favourite restaurants in Istanbul tonight.

WHAT TO DO IN ISTANBUL

I just love being in Istanbul. Sometimes I come over, all the way from Asia, just for a weekend of walks, sitting by the Bosphorus and a couple of good meals. The weather is perfect and everywhere is a feast for the senses. It’s a great way to rejuvenate and revitalise one’s self.

This time too, I really intended for a very relaxed pace of a trip with enough time to catch up on emails and to actually read the newspapers over breakfast. Of course, I am trying to fit in as many spa treatments as possible.

THE RESTAURANTS UNDER GALATA BRIDGE

I’m doing a bit of the tourist stuff that I like as well. The other day my friends and I had lunch under Galata Bridge. This is a big tourist activity, and almost all the fish restaurants here cater to foreigners.

However, I just love sitting right by the sea under the bridge and watching the boats go by. You see all of this amidst the gorgeous views of the oldest neighbourhoods of Istanbul. This is such a unique experience — something you won’t find even from the top luxury hotels.

BREAKFAST AT THE FOUR SEASONS BOSPHORUS

Breakfast at the Four Seasons Bosphorus is certainly a great way to start each day of a holiday in Istanbul.

They have a really interesting selection of food for breakfast at the Aqua Restaurant. This includes Turkish bean soup and all kinds of fish done in a variety of ways.

The fish dishes at breakfast are really delicious. In fact, I haven’t seen such a comprehensive array of fish dishes at breakfast at other luxury hotels in Istanbul.

Two fish dishes stand out at the Four Seasons Bosphorus. One is a shredded salmon dish which is delicious beyond words. The other is marinated freshly-caught anchovies that is always so prettily arranged; it looks like a modern artwork.

I usually eat these with a big plate of buttered Turkish fried rice that the chef kindly makes for me when it wasn’t available in the buffet spread.

TRADITIONAL TURKISH PANCAKES

Then there’s the freshly made traditional Turkish pancakes that are made to order right on the terrace. This is perhaps the highlight of breakfast. It’s a joy to watch the Turkish ladies make this pancake. And the pancakes themselves are incredibly delicious. Sometimes the pancakes are filled with cheese, and sometimes meat is added into the pancake.

Of course, I always end breakfast with a plate of traditional Turkish sweets.

VISITING ISTANBUL’S TOP MUSEUMS

Speaking of art, that’s the other thing on my agenda. One of my favourite museums in Istanbul is of course the Istanbul Modern, so that’s where I’m headed today.

And then I’m checking out an away-from-the-tourist-track neighbourhood full of cool new designer shops and chic boutiques with one-of-a-kind items for sale. My kind of favourite places.

What a wonderful, relaxing week in Turkey, living a never-endingly eventful #Travelife.

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At the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul

The Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus sits regally like a beautiful lady of the Ottoman Empire, practically a destination in itself, especially for frequent travelers to Istanbul like myself who wish to revisit the city in relaxed style.

I’d been to Turkey many times before; so on this particular trip, all I wanted to do was walk around the old neighborhoods of Galata and Karakoy discovering quirky shops and cool cafes, visit the Istanbul Modern, and then spend the rest of the time on R&R right by one of the most strategic waterways in the world.

At the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul

The convenient location of Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus, near  historic sights of Bosphorus and also comfortably away from the hustle and bustle, is most ideal for a relaxing holiday in Istanbul.

At the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul

For my stay at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus, I chose a second floor Palace Bosphorus room which is one of the most attractive rooms in the hotel. Located in the historic main building, a 19th century former Ottoman palace, it still had remnants of its grand old self, with unusually high ceilings and old-fashioned windows facing the Bosphorus so that I could see the Asian side of Istanbul and the Maiden tower in the distance.

Meanwhile the interiors were classic Turkish turn-of-the-century in feel – dark furniture and plush fabrics – although with all the magical gadgets of modern technology.

Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Bosphorus

Within this oasis, one of my favorite rituals was eating at the delicious breakfast buffet at Aqua, the contemporary Italian restaurant of Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Bosphorus. 

It has a wonderful breakfast buffet, all kinds of fresh juices including my all-time favorite fresh pomegranate juice, full of anti-oxidants, and there’s a lovely Turkish lady who makes a Turkish specialty of beef and flour pancake nearby. I always order this Turkish pancake and ask her to put a little chili in.

Breakfast at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Bosphorus

I began my days in a wonderfully languid fashion at this sleek but cheerful venue, with freshly pressed pomegranate juice and a typical Turkish breakfast of assorted cheeses, clotted cream, olives, honey and breads.

Baklava at the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul

The spa had a wide range of treatments but I just had to book the Turkish hammam experience on one of these spa days, of course. 

This Turkish hammam experience began with a short steam treatment followed by a body scrub, foaming wash and massage that ended just in time for afternoon tea in the hotel gardens where tables are set up right next to the sea so that on a beautifully sunny afternoon this was just about the best place to be in Istanbul.

At the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul

Then, just like the pace of everything else in Istanbul, a city full of moments worth savoring slowly that slip by all too quickly, we were soon reluctantly calling it a day. All the while sitting at the same spot outdoors, afternoon tea seamlessly turned into sunset cocktails; and then darkness crept in and we walked back to Aqua for an authentic Italian dinner of pasta, steaks and gelato cooked by Istanbul’s best Italian chef.

At the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul

We’d been so mesmerized by our VIP seat on the grand show that is life on the Bosphorus – one of the greatest attractions of Istanbul – that, ironically, the hours had ever so wonderfully slipped by unnoticed. And this is how it was everyday for the rest of our stay as well, until it was time to say goodbye to Istanbul and to the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus.

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Cicek Pasaji in Istanbul

THE PERA DISTRICT OF ISTANBUL

THE STREETS OF ISTANBUL

BUYING ART IN ISTANBUL

And, oh yes, I also buy a luggage fulll of artisan-quality Iznik tiles for my home, so that my beloved Istanbul is always with me. On this trip, I bought four works of art to remind me of those four wonderful days — and I plan to hang them in my bedroom this weekend,

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Business Class breakfast on Turkish Airlines

Driving to Ataturk Airport in Turkey in the Park Hyatt Istanbul limousine

The Park Hyatt Istanbul

Baklava for dessert via room service at the Park Hyatt Istanbul

THE BEST KEBABS IN ISTANBUL

This has always been a great favorite of mine and it has the best kebabs in Istanbul, being the sister restaurant of the Kosebasi chain, where I once took over 70 Travelife Magazine readers and friends for a kebab dinner I’m sure they still remember.

THE BEST ROOM SERVICE BREAKFAST IN ISTANBUL

Breakfast via room service at the Park Hyatt Istanbul

I took this selfie sitting on the steps of a 12th century mosque in Nisantasi while my companion went inside for a look as it was prayer time. This is a wash & wear hairstyle, by the way, straight from the hammam in my Park Hyatt Istanbul spa suite, simply because I forgot to bring my hairbrush to Istanbul.

SHOPPING FOR FOOD IN ISTANBUL

And then we went to the food hall to stock up on white asparagus, leafy herbs and greens, pistachio and the sweetest blackberries I’ve ever tasted — all to bring back home and keep the feeling of this wonderful long weekend in Istanbul a little longer with me, living a #Travelife.

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In Istanbul, onboard the most perfect yacht for 2 (or 20 or 30!) chartered from LuxuryIstanbul.com

THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN ISTANBUL INCLUDE

ASITANE 

AND MEZE BY LEMON TREE

WHERE TO CHARTER A YACHT IN ISTANBUL

SAILING AROUND THE GOLDEN HORN

DISCOVERING A COLLECTION OF

VINTAGE CARS AND VINTAGE BOATS

IN ISTANBUL

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I’ve been to Istanbul countless times over the past 20 years. On one of those trips, I took 70 readers of Travelife Magazine on a great adventure to Turkey.

Many of them have joined us again for other trips to other parts of the world.

Scroll down to read more…

TURKEY 20 YEARS AGO

For visits to Istanbul, I usually like staying in hotels that are out of the tourist route but at the same time convenient for it. 


I’d stayed in all the grand hotels, including the most luxurious one (Ciragan Palace) and the most historic one way before it was renovated and re-opened (Pera Palas).

I’ve also stayed in the newest super luxury hotel along the Bosphorus (Shangri-la Bosphorus).

All of these stays have been memorable.

But, yes, on my very first visit to Turkey almost 20 years ago, I stayed at the historic and amazing — the truly unforgettable — Pera Palas Hotel.

STRAIGHT OUT OF THE BIBLE

I can’t ever forget that stay.

There were so few foreigners in Istanbul then, and it was far from a modern city.

In fact, arriving in Istanbul then was like opening a page of the Bible and walking straight into it.

That trip blew my mind away in a manner I can’t even begin to describe.

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THE HOTEL WHERE AGATHA CHRISTIE STAYED

And I still remember how we took a car from the airport and rode up to the Pera Palas, just as a wedding party in all sorts of amazing dress was coming out.

The scene was just like something from an Agatha Christie novel.

And incidentally, Agatha Christie stayed at the Pera Palas and wrote part of her thrillers here.

Unfortunately, Agatha Christie’s room was turned into a museum so guests could not book this room.

So instead we were given Zsa Zsa Gabor’s favorite suite, which was rather nice as well.

THE FANCIEST DINING ROOM IN ISTANBUL

The very fancy dining room of the Pera Palas was then the place to be in, for local Istanbul society.

I still remember how it had a two-storey high room, glittering chandeliers, masses of flowers everywhere, and very old-fashioned service.

There was also an antique elevator which actually worked, and it had an attendant inside and chairs for guests to sit as they were ferried up to their rooms.

It was all quite amazing.

And, in that beautiful dining room, my friend and I were forever the topics of discussion among the other diners, as there were no other Asians around but us.

Yes, even way back then, I was already living a never-ending, and never-endingly eventful Travelife.

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