When I think of Phnom Penh, I remember the Royal Palace and the Raffles Hotel. it is not just another Asian capital on a map for me, but a city etched into my personal history. It is threaded through with family ties, and bound to my memories of youth. My father was the first Philippine ambassador to Cambodia after diplomatic ties were reestablished in the early 1990s. I was still a teenager then, and our days in sleepy Phnom Penh felt like stepping into another time.

Phnom Penh Then and Now

There were scarcely any hotels in Cambodia in those days. Siem Reap was little more than a forgotten outpost, without proper accommodations or even a restaurant to speak of. The Grand Hotel d’Angkor — now the magnificent Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor and sister property to Raffles Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh — still stood under scaffolding, awaiting its rebirth.

In Phnom Penh, however, the newly renovated and reopened Raffles Hotel Le Royal was already welcoming guests. It was the city’s only true luxury hotel, and it quickly became not just our residence, but our refuge and gateway into the heart of Cambodia.

Three decades on, Phnom Penh is almost unrecognizable. The quiet town my family once knew has grown into a crowded, fast-moving capital. Yet amid the city’s transformation, Raffles has not changed. The hotel retains the grace of another era, and its enduring elegance still makes it the city’s defining address — a place that connects past and present without ever feeling dated.

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Returning to the Past

Stepping into Le Royal is like entering a living storybook. Designed in the 1920s by Ernest Hébrard, the visionary French urbanist who helped shape Phnom Penh’s identity, the hotel has welcomed kings, queens, statesmen, and icons. When it opened in 1929, it was the tallest building in Phnom Penh, inaugurated by King Sisowath Monivong himself. The royal link remains today, not just in the crest gifted by the royal family or the art that adorns the ceilings, but in the atmosphere — a gentle reminder that you are a guest in a place steeped in history.

For me, staying here is always a homecoming of sorts. The high-ceilinged suites, the echo of French colonial lines softened by Khmer motifs, the shaded verandas where time seems to pause — all of these evoke memories of my early visits, when Cambodia was only beginning to reopen itself to the world. Yet the hotel is never static. It has grown into its role as the cultural heart of Phnom Penh.

We also loved having Sunday brunch or Sunday dinner at the Raffles Hotel, and it was always the highlight of our week. It was where conversations lingered, time stretched, and family life intersected with the grandeur of the hotel’s history.

Stay in a Suite at the Raffles Hotel in Phnom Penh

Arrive on a Friday evening and check into one of the Personality Suites, named after illustrious former guests like Jacqueline Kennedy, Charles de Gaulle, or Somerset Maugham. These suites are more than rooms — they are portals, lined with antiques and personal artifacts that connect you to the city’s storied past.

What sets them apart is the sense of character each carries: the Jacqueline Kennedy Suite is filled with photographs and mementos from her celebrated 1967 visit, a reminder of Phnom Penh’s brief moment in the international spotlight.

Meanwhile, the Somerset Maugham Suite recalls the writer’s long fascination with Southeast Asia, its desk and library inviting you to linger with a notebook. On the other hand, the Charles de Gaulle Suite pays homage to Cambodia’s deep historical ties with France. High ceilings, vintage furnishings, and polished teak floors add to the atmosphere, creating spaces that feel lived in rather than staged.

For me, the appeal lies in this layering of memory — you aren’t just staying in a hotel, you’re stepping into a chapter of Phnom Penh’s history.

Explore the Royal Palace

The next morning should begin at the Royal Palace of Cambodia, only minutes away. Its gilded spires rise above the city, a reminder of Phnom Penh’s royal heritage. Within the grounds, the Silver Pagoda is striking, with more than 5,000 silver tiles laid across its floor and a collection of treasures that includes a golden Maitreya Buddha studded with diamonds and a small but luminous Emerald Buddha.

The Throne Hall, with its painted ceiling panels and ceremonial throne, conveys the formality of Cambodia’s monarchy, while the surrounding gardens, shaded and meticulously kept, offer a quieter counterpoint to the palace’s grandeur.

Visit the National Museum of Cambodia

Nearby is the National Museum of Cambodia, a must for any Phnom Penh itinerary. Its deep red terracotta pavilions and quiet courtyards shelter one of the world’s greatest collections of Khmer art, spanning nine centuries of sculpture, bronzes, and ceramics.

What draws me back most are the pieces that seem to carry entire worlds within them: the serene sandstone statue of Jayavarman VII, seated in meditation with eyes lowered, radiates a stillness that feels almost timeless; the monumental bronze Vishnu dredged from the Mekong has a presence so powerful you sense the river still clings to it.

I love pausing in the Angkor galleries, where apsaras carved in delicate relief dance across lintels and door frames, each curve of stone holding centuries of devotion. And yet, beyond the masterpieces, I’m just as fond of the museum’s open-air courtyards shaded by frangipani, where the perfume of fallen blossoms mingles with the sense of history all around. For me, this is where Phnom Penh’s noise falls away, and you can feel Cambodia’s past breathing quietly in the present.

Afternoon Tea and Royal Connections

Back at Raffles, guests booking certain VIP stays may even have the privilege of sharing afternoon tea with Her Highness Princess Chansita Norodom, daughter of the legendary prima ballerina Princess Buppha Devi, who championed the Apsara dance and secured its place on UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage.

I never had tea with her myself, but I recall how my father counted Prince Norodom Ranariddh as a good friend, while my mother often lunched with Queen Monique. These were everyday realities of our diplomatic life — a reminder that in Cambodia, the royal family brought a sense of mystique, glamour, and elegance that infused every aspect of diplomatic life.

A Culinary Journey with Chef Nak

On Sunday, dedicate a day to Cambodian cuisine. Join Chef Nak, one of Cambodia’s leading culinary voices, for a market visit and private cooking session in a traditional wooden house by the Mekong. Her book Saoy – Royal Cambodian Home Cuisine has been recognized as one of the best in the world, and her cooking links you directly to the heart of Cambodian tradition.

Phnom Penh Then and Now

Phnom Penh offers countless layers to explore. I often went to the Central Market in the 1990s, drawn as much by its Art Deco dome as by the treasures hidden within its stalls. In those early years, the market was full of exquisitely carved silverware, and I brought home silver bags, trays, and even a little silver elephant or two. The prices were astonishingly different then. Today the market has changed, but it remains equally fascinating, blending history with modern-day commerce.

Alongside the market, Wat Phnom, colonial boulevards, and a new wave of trendy cafés give Phnom Penh its evolving rhythm. Yet at night, I still feel the pull of Raffles Hotel Le Royal — timeless, elegant, and irreplaceable.

Dining the Raffles Hotel in Phnom Penh

The weekend culminates with a five-course dinner at Restaurant Le Royal, the hotel’s jewel. Beneath a painted ceiling, each course is a dialogue between Khmer royal cuisine and modern culinary artistry, paired with wines selected by your butler.

Beyond the hotel, Phnom Penh’s culinary life is equally memorable. I recall the Foreign Correspondents’ Club, which in the 1990s was the gathering point of expatriates and served some of the best food in the city. Across the river were humble local restaurants — far from glamorous, but unforgettable. One dish in particular stays with me: beef in a local sauce. I never discovered exactly what went into it, but it was the kind of dish you could not stop eating, as vivid in memory as any palace or museum.

Why Raffles Is Still the Only Place to Stay

As I step out into the warm Phnom Penh evening, I realize that one thing has never changed: to experience Cambodia’s capital in its fullest grace and dignity, you must begin — and end — at Raffles Hotel Le Royal Phnom Penh.

Phnom Penh: The Pearl of Asia

Often called the “Pearl of Asia,” Phnom Penh is Cambodia’s capital and cultural heart. Founded in the 14th century and restored as the royal capital in 1865, the city lies where the Tonlé Sap and Mekong rivers meet. It blends French colonial boulevards, Art Deco landmarks, and New Khmer architecture with a dynamic modern energy.

Today, Phnom Penh is home to more than two million people and is the country’s political, cultural, and economic center. Its riverside neighborhoods mix cafés and street markets with gilded pagodas and historic palaces. From the hilltop serenity of Wat Phnom to the grandeur of the Royal Palace, Phnom Penh remains both a living museum of Cambodia’s past and a vibrant gateway to its future.

About the Writer

Christine Cunanan is the publisher of Travelife Magazine, now a digital publication curating extraordinary trips and experiences for discerning readers worldwide. She is also the director of Nagatacho Ohka in Tokyo, a private fine-dining restaurant often described as one of Japan’s most exclusive culinary experiences.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, she purchased a property in Spain sight unseen and transformed it into La Esperanza Granada, a luxury hacienda in Andalusia that now hosts destination weddings, milestone celebrations, and family retreats. In 2025, La Esperanza Granada was honored with the Tripadvisor Best of the Best award, placing it among the top 1% of lodgings worldwide.

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