La Mamounia in Marrakech is more than a luxury hotel. Among its crown jewels is Le Marocain, a restaurant that takes you on a culinary journey through Morocco, blending timeless traditions with impeccable hospitality in a setting that feels straight out of a dream.

Enchanting Old World Ambiance

Le Marocain’s setting is pure magic. Tucked inside a traditional riad, the restaurant enchants with its intricate wooden carvings, glowing Moroccan lanterns, and the faint scent of orange blossoms wafting through the open courtyard. The dining rooms are intimate yet grand, encircling a lush space where musicians play soulful Moroccan melodies. The music creates a serene backdrop, blending effortlessly with the soft laughter of diners and the rhythmic footsteps of waiters carrying platters piled high with exquisite dishes. The glow of lanterns dances on the walls, and the atmosphere feels like stepping into a storybook of Morocco’s rich heritage.

A Culinary Journey Through Morocco

The dining experience at Le Marocain is as unforgettable as its setting. It began with an array of mezze, each dish a perfect introduction to Morocco’s bold and varied flavors. Silky eggplant, spicy zaalouk, and velvety hummus were paired with fresh, warm bread, inviting us to savor every bite.

Then came the star of the evening: the lamb tagine. The lamb, slow-cooked to perfection, fell apart with the slightest touch of the fork. Saffron and cinnamon gave the dish a warming depth, while the sweetness of prunes balanced the tang of preserved lemons. The crunch of toasted almonds provided the final layer of texture, creating a dish that was as complex as it was comforting.

Every bite was complemented by Moroccan wines selected to enhance the meal’s rich spices and subtle flavors. The wines, sourced from local vineyards, mirrored the complexity of the food, offering notes of fruit, spice, and earth that deepened the experience. Just when we thought the evening couldn’t get any better, the waitstaff performed a traditional tea ceremony, pouring steaming mint tea from silver teapots into delicate glasses with dramatic

The Gardens of La Mamounia

We ended our dinner at the Le Marocain with a stroll through the famous La Mamounia gardens. The gardens felt peaceful and inviting, with tall palm trees swaying gently in the evening breeze. Citrus trees filled the air with a fresh, zesty scent, and vibrant bougainvillea climbed gracefully along the walls. We followed winding paths, discovering fountains, hidden benches, and serene corners lit softly by lanterns. The quiet beauty of the gardens gave us a chance to reflect on the wonderful meal we had just enjoyed.

The gardens have a long history, originally created as a royal wedding gift. Walking through them, we could feel their timeless charm. It was easy to see why so many visitors call them one of Marrakech’s treasures. Each step felt like a journey into another world, far removed from the city outside.

Winston Churchill’s Bar

After our walk, we went to La Mamounia’s famous bar, known for its connection to Winston Churchill. The bar had an elegant, old-world atmosphere with polished wood, vintage decor, and soft lighting. It felt like stepping back in time. Churchill often spent evenings here, and we imagined him sitting at the bar, enjoying the same timeless elegance.

Winston Churchill loved La Mamounia and called it “the most lovely spot in the whole world.” He stayed at the hotel many times, enjoying its peaceful gardens, luxurious surroundings, and views of the Atlas Mountains. He spent hours painting in the gardens and relaxing at the historic bar, which still reflects the elegance he admired. Churchill’s visits made La Mamounia a famous destination for travelers seeking beauty, culture, and history in Marrakech.

We ordered cocktails crafted with care and sipped them slowly, soaking in the rich history of the space. The atmosphere was warm and refined, the perfect end to an unforgettable evening. Between the dinner at Le Marocain, the serene gardens, and the historic bar, the night felt like a true celebration of the beauty and culture of Marrakech.

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In the middle of a sweltering August afternoon, I landed in Marrakech and stepped into the cool and dimly-lit lobby of the famous La Mamounia. This hotel has intrigued luxury travelers for decades with its legendary status and famous guests. It exudes history, elegance and yet also a vibrant Moroccan spirit. I’ve stayed at La Mamounia several times before but this was the first since the pandemic. For a few days, I was once again part of its storied legacy.

Walking in the Footsteps of Winston Churchill

La Mamounia has been a sanctuary for many notable figures over the years. However, perhaps none has left a more enduring mark than former British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. Known for his love of painting, he often referred to La Mamounia as “the most lovely spot in the whole world.”

Churchill first visited the hotel in the 1930s and returned many times. Often, he brought his easel and paints, eager to capture the beauty of the gardens and the Atlas Mountains beyond. Even now it’s easy to imagine him sitting in the very same gardens I could see from my suite, painting the rows pf flowers and palm trees.

La Mamounia’s gardens have been a central part of its identity since the hotel opened. Spanning nearly 20 acres, it is a lush private world of greenery within the walls of the Marrakech Medina. Orange and olive trees, cacti, roses, and towering palms create a space so serene that it feels miles away from the hustle and bustle.

Somewhere in this garden as well is a small plaque to mark the spot where Churchill used to set up his easel.

The views from the executive suite

My executive suite was a lovely blend of Moroccan craftsmanship and modern elegance. Hand-carved cedarwood screens, intricate zellij tilework in rich shades of cobalt and emerald, and plush velvety furnishings made it feel grand and yet also comforting. Every detail, from the Moroccan silk curtains to the opulent marble bathroom, reflected La Mamounia’s dedication to authentic design. It was a joy to return to this suite every evening.

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Legendary Hospitality at La Mamounia

However the staff’s hospitality was what really made all the difference to my stay. The team was sincere, confident and professional across the board. For instance, a lady serving us lunch in the lobby told us, who said she’d been working at the hotel for many years, gave some pointers for what to see in the medina.

Meanwhile, my spa therapist for the hotel’s signature Obido facial, which was so good that I booked it twice, taught me how to massage my face. As for the wonderful concierge team, they truly tried their best to get me into the most impossible places in Marrakech.

I’ve stayed in the best hotels in the world. Each member of the La Mamounia team was personally invested in making my experience extraordinary.

Farewell to a great hotel

Leaving La Mamounia was a bittersweet experience. Having stayed nearly a week in such splendor, I was reluctant to check out. The past and present coexist harmoniously at La Mamounia and every detail tells a story. And every member of the hotel team is a storyteller, bringing the warmth of Moroccan hospitality to life in every interaction.

This is not simply another luxurious hotel. It is an experience and a journey into Moroccan heritage that lingers long after the stay is over. No wonder Winston Churchill and countless others — myself included — were and continue to be captivated by its charm.

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“Where are you headed next?” Everyone asked me, after a week in Marrakech. I had been staying at the famous La Mamounia which hardly needs an introduction. It is still the perfect base for exploring the city even if newer luxury hotels have appeared. However, finally I reluctantly packed my bags to head for the wilderness.

I replied: “I’m going to the Alone In The World camp of Alcimat.”

Nothing To Google

No matter who I spoke to, they had not heard of this luxury camp in the middle of nowhere. Of course, I became apprehensive. The luxury sector of Morocco is vast and varied but it is nevertheless still a small world. Everyone knows each other or at least has heard of the other.

Upon reaching the Alone In The World camp, which is just under a two-hour drive from Marrakech, I realized why. With a smile and a hint of a giggle, the staff told me that their camp deliberately did not have a website nor any contact details. An online search of Alcimat, the parent company, yielded a handful of lovely photos that hinted at nothing. As for googling “Alone In The World”? All I can say is, “good luck to you.”

The Insiders of Alone In The World

So apparently one was either in the know about this camp or not. Among those in the know were former French President Nicolas Sarkozy and his singer/ model wife Carla Bruni. They had stayed there. The design team of Yves St Laurent were including in this whispering circle as well, along with a group of very fashionable Russian women. And now, happily, so was I.

I had always dreamed of staying in a camp like this because it is luxury at its most unique. It is neither a desert camp nor a safari camp, although the tented accommodations certainly had an Out of Africa theme.

Amidst vast horizons and endless silence, the heavy duty ensuite tents with vintage interiors and a swimming pool carved from rocks stood as if they had always been there. These blend seamlessly with the surroundings but were as breathtaking as the views,

Initial Impressions

The Alone In The World camp is accessed via a long, winding drive through barren landscapes and stone villages in the Atlas Mountains. Many of the latter were still affected by the last large earthquake.

At the camp, the tents are spread across a rocky ridge, each one positioned with an unobstructed view of the mountain ridge across. The earth here was rugged, a mix of red and rust-colored stones, with only the odd olive tree for a touch of green. Meanwhile, the uneven terrain created a sense of wild, untouched beauty. This was a place shaped by harsh winds and sun, a land etched with history.

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Morocco’s Most Exclusive Camp

The camp is small and understated. Yes, I was literally Alone In The World. Whether you are one guest or twelve, the entire camp and its staff is for you when you book it. As for the camp itself, each tent is simple yet stylish.

The interior accents include Berber rugs, old-fashioned lamps and hanging gas lanterns, and handcrafted cushions with tribal designs. You also find lovely antiques such as old tea pots and useful items from the safari camps of old.

Each tent has a small covered terrace with leather camp chairs for taking in the majesty all around. There is nothing but miles of rocky terrain framed by distant mountains. Nevertheless, you are captivated from the first moment.

I walked to the edge of the swimming pool created with rocks — all mine for my stay — to watch the sunset. There was a slight breeze, carrying the coolness of dusk, and the view before me was staggering. The landscape changed colors as the sun dipped lower. It shifted from amber to deep crimson, then finally to a violet hue that softened the sharp edges of the rocks. I found myself lost in a silence so profound that it felt alive.

Civilization In The Middle of Nowhere

As darkness fell, the rangers beckoned for dinner. The meals are arranged in the main tent, on a large dining table adorned with dripping candelabras. Meanwhile, the menu, which is up to the resident chef, varies according to inspiration, seasonality, and availability. With advance notice, he can whip up practically anything in his small tented kitchen.

The dishes we had were excellent and sophisticated fusion — a marvel, considering our location. None of the usual tagine and couscous unless specifically requested by guests.

That night, the meal ended with the finest desserts in Marrakech. Such civilization in the middle of nowhere and apparently only the best will do for the camp’s guests. In this case, we had French champagne (Ruinart) and fancy desserts. Everything sweet, along with the breads for breakfast, came fresh from the Pierre Herme patisserie at the La Mamounia. The staff purchase these and bring them to the camp on their daily trips.

After dinnerl, I wandered back to my tent to enjoy the depth of the silence around me. I lay on my bed, with just the tent’s opening flap pulled back, letting the cool night air drift in. When I looked outside, the sky was a stunning tapestry of stars. Each one was sharp and bright in the clear desert air. I could see the Milky Way stretching across the sky, a glittering ribbon against the deep darkness. I lay there for what felt like hours, just breathing. My mind was still as my senses became attuned to the quiet rhythm of the night.

Alone In The World But Not Lonely

The next morning, I woke just before dawn to watch the sunrise from the ridge. The air was cool and crisp and there was no one in sight. Not even the staff for breakfast was awake. And as the first light rose over the rocks, I was overwhelmed with emotion. There was beauty all around me and I was Alone In The World. However, I was not at all lonely.

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In the heart of the souk district, the exquisite La Sultana Marrakech is a true testament to Morocco’s rich heritage. It’s the best place to learn how to cook Moroccan food too.

In any country, a culinary experience here is more than just about learning recipes. It’s a journey into the heart of a country’s culture. Morocco is no different and there is a cooking lesson on offer in practically every neighborhood of the Medina of Marrakech.

However, at La Sultana Marrakech, the cooking lesson is an authentic exploration of Morocco’s vibrant flavors. The hotel’s Moroccan chef taught us how to whip up a richly flavored roasted eggplant salad and a chicken tagine accompanied by fluffy couscous in one morning. We ended the experience with an elaborate Moroccan tea ceremony on the rooftop and lunch by the pool.

Exotic Moroccan Spices and Ingredients

The experience began with an introduction to Morocco’s most iconic ingredients in La Sultana’s rooftop kitchen. This kitchen, created just for cooking classes, offered views of the Medina of Marrakech and the ancient Sadian tombs next door. Truly lovely options for a wandering eye in case you’re tired of watching your tagine cook.

Meanwhile, the lady chef, a master of Moroccan cuisine, introduced me to the Moroccan pantry. Aside from fresh herbs, on the counter were cinnamon, saffron, and Morocco’s signature ras el hanout, a spice blend that harmonizes over 30 spices.

Roasted Eggplant Salad: A Moroccan Mezze Classic

To start, the chef guided us through the preparation of zaalouk, a traditional Moroccan roasted eggplant salad. This dish, like many Moroccan mezze dishes, embodies simplicity and depth in equal measure. We began by roasting the eggplants until their skins charred and the flesh turned tender and smoky.

Once roasted, we peeled and mashed the eggplant, blending it with fresh tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, cumin, and paprika. Each ingredient enhanced the eggplant’s smoky depth, creating a velvety texture. Garnished with fresh herbs, the salad was both humble and elegant, showing us how Moroccan cuisine celebrates vegetables with care and creativity.

Traditional Moroccan Tagine

Then we proceeded to the ubiquitous Moroccan tagine. This is a slow-cooked dish that is as beautiful to look at as it is flavorful. We first layered sliced onions and a selection of vegetables to form a colorful, balanced foundation. Our chef demonstrated the art of arranging each ingredient with purpose, explaining how the tagine is not just a meal but a visual composition.

Then we added the chicken along with a mixture of spices and a handful of dried lemons and olives. Each chef — as well as each Moroccan family — has his or her own tagine recipe, usually passed down through generations. So no matter how many times you eat a tagine in Morocco, each one is different in some way.

The cooking process is slow and intentional, allowing the spices to infuse deeply into the meat. This creates a harmony of flavors that slowly unfold while simmering on a low flame.

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The Art of Couscous:

Next, we turned our attention to couscous, an art that requires both precision and patience. Unlike ordinary grains, couscous is steamed multiple times, with a ritualistic fluffing between each steaming. Yes, it’s way harder to make than it looks; although not impossible. Our chef said she makes it for her family twice a day, after all.

We carefully rolled the grains with olive oil, allowing each grain to steam separately. This is the secret to achieving the light, airy texture.

Between steamings, we added an array of seasonal vegetables, which we arranged to cook over the couscous, infusing the grains further with their flavors. Each step was taken with care and reverence. By the final steaming, the couscous was tender and fragrant, each grain soft yet distinct, ready to accompany the tagine. We were ready too — to eat, that is.

The Moroccan Tea Tradition

With our dishes nearly complete, we gathered around a low table to experience one of Morocco’s most cherished traditions. The Moroccan tea ceremony is more than just a simple refreshment. It is a ritual of hospitality, a gesture of welcome and warmth. Our chef placed an exquisite Moroccan tea set on the table, complete with a silver teapot and glasses decorated in intricate patterns.

Then she expertly brewed the tea with fresh mint, green tea leaves, and a generous amount of sugar. Then it was time for some magic. She poured the tea from high above each glass, creating a gentle foam that signifies skill and respect for the craft. Watching this ritual unfold, I understood that tea in Morocco is not only enjoyed as a beverage. It is revered as a symbol of friendship and hospitality.

Sipping the sweet, aromatic tea as our poolside table was set for lunch, I felt completely immersed in the Moroccan spirit of graciousness and community. The tea ceremony allowed me to reflect on the morning’s culinary lessons, and to savor the ambiance of La Sultana’s rooftop, with its unparalled views of the ancient medina.

A Taste of Morocco

Finally, it was time to enjoy the meal we had cooked. Sitting at a beautifully arranged table by the swimming pool, I took my first bite of the tagine. It was tender and flavorful. The chicken, spices, dried lemons, and olives came together in a beautiful balance of flavors. T

Meanwhile, the couscous, fluffy and aromatic, was the perfect accompaniment. Each grain soft yet structured. The roasted eggplant salad added a contrasting depth, its smoky flavors complementing the sweetness of the tagine.

Every bite transported me deeper into the rich culinary traditions of Morocco. As I enjoyed the fruits of our labor, the chef shared stories of Moroccan cooking as a way to connect with family, community, and heritage. This experience went beyond recipes—it was an invitation to experience Morocco’s soul.

A Lasting Memory at La Sultana Marrakech

The tagine and couscous cooking lesson at La Sultana Marrakech left me with more than culinary skills. It offered a glimpse of the Moroccan way of life, where food is prepared with reverence and shared with love.

From the intricate techniques of crafting couscous to the ritual of the tea ceremony, every moment at La Sultana was crafted with sophistication and care. This experience was a reminder that food is more than sustenance. It’s a way to connect, share, and celebrate culture. Leaving La Sultana, I carried with me the warmth of the people who bring Morocco’s culture to life with every meal.

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Just 30 kilometers from Marrakech, the Agafay Desert provides a convenient and thrilling opportunity to experience Morocco’s stunning desert landscapes. For those seeking a luxurious retreat, Inara Camp offers the ideal base for an evening or a short stay of one or two days.

Although the Agafay Desert lacks the vast dunes of the Sahara, its rolling stone plains, golden hills, and rugged trails deliver a strikingly beautiful backdrop for an exhilarating 4WD adventure. The area surrounding Inara Camp is rich with attractions and activities to enjoy.

Here are some of the most captivating destinations to discover by 4WD near Inara Camp.

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The Lalla Takerkoust Lake

Just a short drive from Inara Camp, the Lalla Takerkoust Lake is a serene oasis amid the arid desert landscape. This large man-made lake with clear water offers a refreshing contrast to the the surrounding dry hills. The lake offers breathtaking views of the High Atlas Mountains in the distance, especially at sunrise and sunset.

Arriving at Lalla Takerkoust is a reward after a challenging drive among the desert dunes. The lake is also home to a few local cafes, where you can sip Moroccan mint tea while soaking in the peaceful views.

Traditional Berber Villages

Guests at Inara Camp in the Agafay Desert can also visit the traditional Berber villages of Amizmis and Imlik. These villages. home to the indigenous Berber people who have lived here for centuries, are basically clusters of adobe huts and farmhouses.

As you drive from one village to another, you may encounter local artisans selling their handmade Berber crafts by the road. Or perhaps even enjoy traditional Moroccan hospitality with a cup of tea. It is not unusual for a Berber family to spontaneously invite a visitor to their home for tea. The Berber communities are known for their warmth and generosity, and visiting their villages is an essential part of the authentic desert experience.

The Kik Plateau

This large, elevated area offers stunning vistas over the Agafay Desert. It is accessible via 4WD on rugged paths that wind through the foothills.

Once you reach the plateau, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views. The plateau is a perfect spot for a photo break, as the views are particularly striking during sunset when the sky fills with hues of pink, orange, and purple.

Sunset Viewpoints in the Desert

One of the most magical moments in the Agafay Desert is watching the sunset over the sand-colored hills. By 4WD adventure, you can discover secluded viewpoints that offer unobstructed views of the horizon. The desert transforms as the sun dips lower, with the colors of the landscape shifting from golden yellows to deep oranges and purples.

The guides at Inara Camp are familiar with the best sunset spots. They can take you to locations that offer panoramic views. As you watch the sun set, you can enjoy the peaceful ambiance of the desert and the incredible beauty of this unique Moroccan landscape.

Tips for Your 4WD Adventure

• Stay Hydrated: Bring plenty of water as the desert heat can be intense, especially during the summer months.
• Sun Protection: Wear sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat.
• Local Guide: Consider hiring a local guide who knows the best routes and can share fascinating insights about the Agafay Desert.
• Timing: Plan your 4WD adventure in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat and enjoy the most beautiful lighting.

Wildlife Spotting

The Agafay Desert is a rocky, arid region, but it’s home to a surprising variety of wildlife. Keep an eye out for fennec foxes, hares, and various types of birds, including eagles and falcons. The Inara Camp guides can help you spot some of these elusive animals.

A Memorable Adventure Awaits at Inara Camp

Exploring the Agafay Desert by 4WD offers a unique way to connect with Morocco’s ancient culture, and wild nature. Each stop adds to the adventure. A 4WD trip around Inara Camp is an adrenaline-fueled experience amidst stunning desert landscape.

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We set out from Marrakech late afternoon and within an hour we were at Inara Camp, one of the best places to experience the desert culture within driving distance of the city.

Set in the breathtaking Agafay Desert, the 21-hectare Inara Camp is a luxurious escape for dining or an overnight stay. in one of its 19 ensuite tents However, dinner at Inara Camp isn’t simply a meal—it’s a full-on experience of the Moroccan nomadic spirit.

The camp won us over immediately. It was beautiful to look at, captivating to walk around in, and simply enjoyable for a unique evening in Marrakech.

The 4WD Desert Adventure

“Welcome, welcome,” the camp manager said, as musicians welcomed us with songs and drum beats.

He then led us to a flat plateau where two 4WD buggies had been prepared for our adventure through the Agafay Desert. With an experienced guide, we drove over rugged dunes and rocky trails while enjoying the endless desert landscape.

As we stopped in small and sleepy villages, our guide talked about the history and geology of the desert. Then he took us to scenic viewpoints where we drew breaths while admiring the stunning terrain bathed in the warm glow of the late afternoon sun.

Henna Painting: A Traditional Art

Upon returning to Inara Camp, a Bedouin lady was ready with her henna painting tools. Henna has been used for centuries in Moroccan culture, and it symbolizes joy, celebration, and beauty. She created intricate designs on the backs of our hands with traditional patterns. Then, while waiting for the henna to dry, we sipped Moroccan mint tea and admired the peaceful desert atmosphere.

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Authentic Bedouin Dinner

While we were having our hands painted, our private butler busied himself with dinner. He set a beautiful table lit with candles inside our luxurious safari tent. The tent had an indoor living room area and dining area, decorated with cushions, books and Moroccan lanterns.

Then he served us a selection of mezze, including smoky zaalouk, creamy hummus, and spicy harissa, served with fresh bread. The flavors were bold and aromatic — a preview of what else awaited. For the main course, we ordered a classic Moroccan lamb tagine with apricots and almonds and a vegetable couscous. Each bite was a celebration of African spices.

Tribal Musicians and Traditional Rhythms

After dinner, tribal musicians dressed in traditional Berber attire arrived to serenade us. They begin with the rhythmic beat of the drums, a powerful sound that echoed across the desert. Accompanied by hand-clapping, chants, and traditional instruments like the oud and qraqeb (Moroccan castanets), the musicians’ performance was lively and soulful, evoking a sense of connection to the land and people who call this desert home.

We were invited to join in by clapping along or learning the simple steps to a traditional dance, making the evening a truly interactive experience.

Fire Show in the Agafay Desert

Then our focus shifted outside our tent.

“Come, come,” our butler said, with a sense of urgency. Little did we know what awaited us in the darkness: a fire show that proved a mesmerizing finale to an extraordinary evening. The fire performer stepped into the glow of the fire pit and began to twirl flaming batons with skill and speed as the flames danced before us. Each movement was carefully choreographed to create suspense and awe. The performer’s graceful maneuvers and daring stunts against the backdrop of the starry desert sky were hypnotic, lighting up the night in a display of artistry.

This captivating fire performance was the final unforgettable moment in an evening full of magic in the Agafay Desert.

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