Long before I ever set foot in the Cederberg Mountains, Bushman’s Kloof had already taken hold of my imagination. I remember seeing a photograph years ago — a dinner table floating in the middle of a still lake, bathed in candlelight, reflections dancing on the water like stars. Since that moment, I promised myself that one day I would go there.

When I finally did, exactly four years to the day I threw that wish out into the Universe, it felt like I had stepped quietly into a dream I had once glimpsed. Perched tall amidst the vast expanse of the scenery of the Cederberg,

Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat is not a place that dazzles all at once. It reveals itself slowly, layer by layer, in gestures of beauty and stillness. Just under five hours by car from Cape Town, we took the coastal road heading west for Namibia and stayed for several nights in a lovely apartment by the sea. Those happy days of walking by the water, picking shellfish for dinner, were the perfect prelude. They slowed our rhythm, prepared our senses, and made the eventual arrival at Bushmans Kloof feel all the more like stepping into another world.

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BUSHMAN’S KLOOF: A BEAUTIFUL WORLD

When you finally arrive at Bushman’s Kloof, the air feels different. Somehow, it’s lighter and the light deepens into a thousand shades of amber. The aesthetic perfection of the gardens and the grounds does wonders for the senses. Moreover, every moment is beautifully curated — as if invisible hands had arranged the details of each day. Whether it was lunch at the main dining room, where the menu brimmed with dishes personally selected by the owners, or an evening at Cederberg House, the villa where we stayed, everything carried the mark of thoughtful design and quiet passion.

Cederberg House itself was more like the country home of a friend with exquisite taste. It was an exquisite Cape Dutch house with contemporary chintz interiors, terraces that opened up to a private swimming pol, and shelves lined with the kind of assortment of books I love.

“The interiors, the art, even many of the books here were chosen by the owners themselves,” said Martin, as he led us through the living room to the private gardens. Indeed, I could sense how every room was thoughtfully arranged just like in one’s home.

The inspiration for La Esperanza Granada in Spain

Bushman’s Kloof is a luxury safari lodge with so much to do. However the first thing on my mind was rest. I settled into my suite, admired the view, and ensconced myself in a lounge chair by my private pool to paint a watercolor scene of our perfect little world. Nothing else mattered in the golden light of that afternoon, with dramatic hills all around that seemed to hum.

It was exactly here at Bushman’s Kloof, too, that I began to think about owning a property amidst incredible nature. The seed and inspiration for what would one day become La Esperanza Granada, my own hacienda in the Andalusian hills, was planted here. The way Bushmans Kloof balanced wild nature with cultivated beauty, and how it made guests feel both part of the landscape and gently removed from the world, left an imprint on me that has never faded. And now it has resulted in a hacienda of my own.

“OUT OF AFRICA,” THE SAFARI LODGE

The lodge offers two restaurants, a bar, and endless ways to dine in quiet extravagance. Truly, every moment was curated so well that I felt I was starring in my own movie.

One night, we drove thirty minutes through complete darkness to a 100-year-old shepherd’s cottage, where dinner was cooked and served entirely by candlelight. “Surprise,” Rory, then the general manager, said, about our little excursion into darkness. But, as with the rythmn of the days, after darkness comes light. Or, in this case, candles placed like a mural all over the ancient cottage. The room flickered and glowed, and the chef’s bread pudding cooked completely over open fire tasted of nostalgia and warmth.

If we were seeking an evening worth 100 candles (we counted) and a thousand Instagram photos, well, this was it.

Another evening, we dined in the walled garden, where tables are set among lantern-lit trees. I was told that on New Year’s Eve, the garden transforms into a glowing corridor of long tables and swaying lights — an atmosphere that feels both celebratory and serene. That night, it was just us and lanterns hanging from the trees.

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FINDING THE PERFECT BALANCE

Bushmans Kloof occupies a delicate space between wilderness and wellness. It’s a place where days unfold gently. Guests return not for grand safaris, but to walk, breathe, and rediscover stillness. One of my favorite activities involved lying on a rock in an outdoor terrace while Stephanie, a yoga instructor and wellness healer, used a Tibetan brass bowl to tune my frequencies.

“We have guests who come back every year, and all they love to do is walk and sit in the gardens,” said Rory, whose calm presence seemed part of the landscape itself. One night, he took us stargazing in a 4×4 to find the Southern Cross. Instead we found a scorpion, made visible via special equipment. It was oddly beautiful — the kind of detail that makes a trip unforgettable.

The wildlife here may not include the Big Five, but it offers a subtler and more personal discovery of animals. The delicate Cape fox, with its silvery coat, is rarely spotted elsewhere. Meanwhile, the Cape mountain zebra, smaller and more compact than others, its stripes drawn as sharply as brushstrokes, can only be seen in these parts.

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TRACES OF TIME IN STONE

The soul of Bushmans Kloof lies in its connection to the ancient past. Scattered across the reserve are rock paintings by the San people, some dating back more than 10,000 years.

One morning, our guide Martin led us into a narrow ravine to see one of the most remarkable sites on the property. We climbed over a hedge and there it was: a wall of paintings that stretched across three vast stone panels.

“This one was created over many centuries,” he told us as we stood before the ochre and red figures that seemed to shimmer in the filtered light. “You can tell the difference between generations by the pigments and by the overlapping of drawings. Each style belongs to a different tribe or a different time.”

And as he said this, I began to see it. The evolution of line, colour, and form, each layer whispering across time. Some of the oldest figures were faint, drawn in iron-rich earth. But others more recent, their pigments deeper, more deliberate. It was humbling to think of all the hands that had touched this same rock through the millennia — a silent story told by countless lives long gone.

Time, in that moment, felt almost physical. The wall itself breathed — a living archive of human memory, sunlight, and dust.

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MEMORIES THAT LAST

Just when I thought I’d seen all that Bushmans Kloof had to give, there was one last surprise. Instead of returning to the Makana Restaurant at the lodge for our usual breakfast after an early game drive, Martin led us to a clearing where a champagne breakfast was waiting beside a giant boulder. White linens fluttered in the breeze, and the scent of omelettes cooking over an open flame mingled with wild rosemary, as the head chef stood waiting to welcome us, with a glint in his eye.

“You’re making it very hard for us to leave,” I laughed, though a part of me already knew I didn’t want to.

TEMPORARY TICKET TO BLISS

Even now, whenever life feels too loud, I close my eyes and return to that terrace at Cederberg House. Each night, after dinner, we sat outside with the stars overhead, the silence vast and kind. When I remember my stay here, even for a moment, everything feels perfectly still again.

Bushman’s Kloof is a destination in itself, though this is not always evident at the outset. Some guests check in all set for a typical South Africa luxury safari. But then they realize they’re happy to just do an occasional game drive then laze around and be pampered with unforgettable picnics and candlelight dinners. The Travelife Magazine team stayed here as guests of Bushman’s Kloof prior to the pandemic, and this article has been rewritten as a blog entry. Some of the photos here are credited to the Red Carnation Hotels group.

Read more about articles on luxury safari lodges in Africa in Travelife Magazine

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Discover Zambia’s hidden gem

Zambezi Grande guests can choose from many adventures and experiences. Aside from the usual safari experiences, the lodge offers fishing excursions in the great Zambezi River. Guests have the opportunity to see and catch the Tiger Fish and Vundu.

After the safari expeditions, guests can also unwind on the pool deck. It has a photo-worthy infinity swimming pool that looks out onto the river. They can also enjoy a sundowner river cruise or dinner, under the stars on a private island. It’s also fun to simply pass time watching the wildlife from the lodge’s terrace.

Authentic Zambia design

Previously a Cape Dutch-style homestead on the river banks, Zambezi Grande was meticulously designed to celebrate a bygone safari era. Michele Throssell Interiors recreated a vintage lodge amidst breathtaking natural surroundings. The interiors reflect the warm tones of its verdant setting.

Zambezi Grande sleeps just 20 guests with two room categories: Luxury Rooms and Superior Suites. Each offers unobstructed views of the Zambian wilderness in total privacy.

The five Superior Suites enjoy unique riverfront locations. Meanwhile the Luxury Rooms are perched high up in the wilderness. These rooms boast private verandas and inviting interiors.

Similar to La Esperanza Granada in Spain, local artisans produced much of Zambezi Grande’s furniture. The pillows and other soft furnishings are also made especially for the lodge. All the rooms at Zambezi Grande have a handmade drinks cabinet curated explicitly for each guest. Usually these are stocked with South Africa’s finest wines, local Zambian gin, and homemade fresh juices.

Sustainability in Zambia

Zambezi Grande protects the local community and preserves the natural beauty of the Lower Zambezi Valley. The lodge offers a sustainable income for households in the region and inspires local youth.

Guests can join the lodge’s Chengetai Tree Project. Chengetai, which means “to keep” or “to preserve” in the local Gova language. This epitomises the project’s ethos. To participate, guests can purchase and plant trees in the Muguramano or Chijata villages.. By slowing deforestation and desertification, the Chengetai Tree Project encourages environmental regeneration.

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At 630 AM on our first morning at Bushman’s Kloof, our ranger Martin was waiting at the gate of our villa, the beautiful Cederberg House, with a big smile and two yoga mats in hand.

We’d created a full itinerary for our stay at this wilderness retreat, famous for its impeccably planned experiences and flawless service. So our days were booked from early morning to midnight with the kind of activities that Hollywood movies are made of and that most people only dream about.

In this sense, Martin was part of the seamless scenery at this multi-awarded retreat, considered among the best in South Africa. He always met us on time with a cheerful countenance, unfazed by the Herculean task of executing at least three or four events each day with no-fail precision as we simply basked in the good energy of the Cederberg Mountains and eagerly awaited the next surprise.

YOGA IN AFRICA

“Good morning!” He boomed as we trudged out still half asleep. “Are you ready for yoga?”

Eager to jumpstart our wellness journey, we’d signed up for a series of private yoga and meditation sessions. That day, Martin drove us to the most perfect spot possible. There, on an open-air landing with some shade and a 180 degree view of part of the Cederberg mountain range, we were to practice yoga.

TIBETAN SINGING BOWLS

Here yoga instructor Stephanie guided us through the motions. Then at my request she even performed a quick therapy treatment with her Tibetan singing bowls as I lay on my back. I remember marvelling at the clear blue skies of Africa and the surreal feeling of my morning so far.

A cool wind blew, trees shuddered with a comforting sound, and chirping birds flew overhead as I advanced towards inner tranquility in 90 minutes. By then I was ready to make peace with myself and with anything that breathed.

When my personal reverie was over, fresh juices and eggs cooked-to-order awaited me. The chefs had arranged breakfast in a garden next to a shallow river bed where monkeys played.

The menu is simply semantics, though, because the chefs at Bushman’s Kloof, a member of the Red Carnation Hotels, are actually willing to create anything guests fancy. Everything here is done on a best effort basis simply because it’s the kind of place that seriously likes to make its guests happy.

ABOUT CEDERBERG HOUSE

After breakfast, I had some time to read a book back at Cederberg House before our scheduled massage. Our villa, set amidst spacious gardens within a fenced enclosure, was straight out of a design magazine.

Decorated in the classic country style with masses of flowers everywhere, it was elegant and inviting, with decorative items and artworks chosen by the owner herself.

The personal touches of Beatrice Tollman, the self-made travel magnate behind Red Carnation Hotels and The Travel Corporation. She reportedly selects presents for every employee in her vast business empire herself at Christmas, are also evident elsewhere on the estate. These include items on the lunch menu, where her favourite lemon pie is offered for dessert.

Because it was so comfortable, Cederberg House was difficult to leave even for a moment. We loved the thoughtfully stacked bar and the sketch books and paintboxes in the bedrooms. I especially liked the most interesting books arranged artfully on every table.

One or two always caught my eye and I instantly felt like sitting down and reading it. I fact, I’d picked up a book on South African writers as soon as I entered. This book almost never left my side.

THE SPA OF BUSHMAN’S KLOOF

Temping as it was to just stay in and enjoy our beautiful villa, however, the spa beckoned. It was recently chosen the best spa in Africa and the Indian Ocean. So how could I miss this?

We booked the Bushman’s Kloof signature massage and requested for these to be done in the spa gazebo. This treatment room opened up to an old river bed of wild grass.

In this pretty cottage, two cheerful therapists kneaded the knots out of our backs. Meanwhile Martin arranged a picnic lunch in a cave ten minutes away by jeep. By the time our treatment was over, it was noon and he was back at the spa. Then he drove us to a lagoon on the game reserve where he’d already set a canoe and two paddle boards on the water.

PADDLING A CANOE IN THE CEDERBERG MOUNTAINS

When he stopped by the shore, we’d looked at him inquiringly as there was no sign of food and it was 1230 PM. “I thought you guys might want to go paddling on our lagoon first,” he said. “If you follow the route to the right, you’ll find lunch waiting for you somewhere along the way.”

I wasn’t convinced this was a good plan but I got in anyway and we paddled along with Martin waving us off encouragingly from the shore. Paddling was surprisingly enjoyable and easy. It was especially so in this lagoon without waves. Then just as we entered a narrow canal and I was preparing myself for an hour of effort with the boat, we saw a beautiful picnic spread on a ledge.

READ ABOUT THE BEST NEW HOTEL IN SPAIN

PICNIC IN AFRICA

A large mat had been laid out with giant pillows. Meanwhile, even from the water I espied a silver bucket brimming with champagne, wines and juices. Upon alighting and making our way up to the spot, we were treated to the wonderful spectacle of a quintessential South African picnic hamper. Everything was all laid out, ready for photographs.

We had roast beef sandwiches, boiled eggs, salads and fruits, and a cheese
plate. We even had a basket of assorted biltong. Not forgetting my sweet tooth, Martin had even included little pudding pots for dessert.

WATCH OUR VIDEO ON WELLNESS AT BUSHMAN’S KLOOF

It’s not everyday one has such a lovely picnic in the great outdoors. So this one truly delighted me. In fact, our entire stay was full of such wondrous experiences. Afterwards, I realized why so many people undertake the trek from all over the world to Bushman’s Kloof. You’re taken out of your own world and suddenly you find yourself in a place where nothing else really matters but your bliss.

Read more about the best safari lodges in the world in Travelife Magazine.

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After three weeks on the road in Ethiopia traveling from north to south, a luxury hotel in Addis Ababa was heaven-sent. We ended up back in the capital for two nights at the end of our trip. By that time, we were long overdue for a splurge – fast WiFi, computerized lighting and other 21^st century comforts — and the Hyatt Regency Addis Ababa was the ideal choice for a pit stop before flying out of Africa.

HOTEL NEAR BOLE AIRPORT

This luxury hotel in Addis Ababa is only a 15-minute drive from Bole International Airport. Yet it exists in a world of its own in Ethiopia’s capital, just next to historic Meskel Square.

We walked into the lobby, white and grey interspersed with colorful modern art and crafts. I saw only smartly attired men and women in elegant dresses everywhere. They were sipping cocktails in the lounge or engaged in animated conversation by the Cascara bar. 

LUXURY HOTEL IN ADDIS ABABA

“So this is where all the beautiful people of Ethiopia hang out,” I said. In particular, I admired the style of a lady with a chiseled profile, sitting across me in a tunic dress the color of copper earth. She wore chunky bangles around her wrists and looked like she’d just stepped out of the pages of Vogue.

We ordered afternoon tea in the lounge to wind down. After all, we’d just spent a busy day packing and flying out of the south. Just a few hours earlier, we’d been eating breakfast in the garden of our hotel in a city called Hawassa. We’d ordered our favourite avocado shakes and monkeys dangled from the trees as we ate.

This was pretty much the case for every day of that past week. So it was nice to simply bask in the sophisticated vibe of the Hyatt, drinking tea from artisan cups.

ABOUT THE REGENCY EXECUTIVE SUITE

Meanwhile, our spacious Regency Executive suite nicely lived up to my first impressions as well. It certainly was appropriate for a luxury hotel in Ethiopia that everyone has been raving about. Done up all in white, it was modern, minimalist and luxurious all at once. I liked the large living room and adjoining bedroom immediately.

I’d stayed in a variety of lodgings in the Ethiopian countryside. All were charming but none had made me want to stay in and curl up in bed with a room service tray. In this sense, the Hyatt Regency was a world apart. It was pure heaven and calm. 

READ MORE : VISITING AN ANCIENT TRIBE IN ETHIOPIA

ABOUT ADDIS ABABA

Addis Ababa is a real African city of noise, hustle and bustle, so serenity can never be underrated here. Also, there is something about the clean lines of the Hyatt Addis Ababa. It just soothes the soul. In this case, the calm came at just the right time.

And, yes, I did want to prop myself up in bed with fluffy pillows and a pizza. Ethiopia was briefly a colony of Italy so we never met a pizza we didn’t like here. Nevertheless, we couldn’t resist sampling the hotel’s two restaurants. These were supposedly among the city’s very best.

WHERE TO EAT IN ADDIS ABABA

Since the hotel opened, The Oriental very quickly became the dining venue of choice for discerning locals and visitors alike. In particular, Ethiopians like their grilled meat. This restaurant reportedly offers the highest quality available in the city.

It was cool that evening so we got a table on the terrace opposite Meskel Square and lots of thick blankets to wrap up in.

Within 30 seconds of opening the menu, I’d already made up my mind. I wanted a main course consisting of Ethiopian lamb shank. This called out to me at first glance so that I could think of nothing else.

I’d heard about this delicious lamb, you see. However, I’d still had to find a really delicious one in spite of the fact that I’d ordered it in every restaurant.  It was a wonderful evening that was so out of place in the cacophony of sounds and smells that is Addis Ababa. Nevertheless, it felt just right. In fact, it was perfect.

Christine Cunanan is the publisher of Travelife Magazine. Read more stories about Ethiopia in Travelife Magazine.

Some photos courtesy of the Hyatt Regency Addis Ababa

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With 24 hours to spare in Cape Town on my way back to Asia last month, I decided to pamper myself with a stay at one of the city’s most iconic hotels. The Cape Grace sits regally by the waterfront, with its back facing a quiet marina lined with multi-million dollar apartments and the majestic Table Mountain just behind it. This is perhaps one of the most beautiful views of Cape Town.

BEST HOTEL NEAR THE V&A WATERFRONT

For the tourist, it’s an ideal location as you get the views and access to the V&A Waterfront, which is Cape Town’s premiere shopping destination. The latter is just five minutes away on foot, so if you’re short on time and big on luxury, staying here is practically a nobrainer.

This was why I booked the Cape Grace for a night, arriving one early morning straight from a safari experience in the Northern Cape. I’d had a late night and then I’d woken up at 4 AM to catch two flights; so by the time I walked into the hotel, I was wavering uncertainly between climbing into bed as soon as possible to recover some sleep, or hitting the shops for some last-minute purchases.

The beautiful room I was given, on the top floor, with a rooftop terrace facing the waterfront, did not help balance matters out either. The large bed beckoned invitingly, and there were even books and magazines set out on the night table – the kinds I actually wanted to read, including a magazine on interior design and a book about Africa.

Meanwhile, my terrace with a view kept sending me a subliminal message: “Stay in and order room service instead. Imagine having lunch here, enjoying a view no one else has.”

Everywhere else in the hotel tempted me with offers, as well. Passing the elegant library, full of porcelain and antiques, I espied a display of Cape Grace’s famous cakes by the entrance, and saw many guests escaping the noonday sun in plush comfort. The spa, which is on the hotel rooftop along with my room, also offered an irresistible menu of treatments, perfect after two weeks of safari and before the long trip home.

Spa experience in Cape Town

I ended up trying to do a bit of everything . I ordered afternoon tea to enjoy in the hotel library, and then booked a massage at the spa, where I had rooibos tea on the spa terrace with a view. Afterwards, I walked along the waterfront to visit the crafts markets and stores by the water, returning just in time for drinks before dinner.

It was at this point, walking back to the Cape Grace from the waterfront, that I fully appreciated the charms of this convenient and yet luxurious hotel.

SERVICE AT A LUXURY HOTEL

However, the quality of service at Cape Grace impressed me the most. I stay in good hotels all the time precisely because I travel so much and treat each one like a home – so I always need an excellent concierge at the end of the phone and great in-house restaurants within a three-minute walk.

The concierge at the Cape Grace certainly passed my tests with flying colors. Upon arriving at the hotel, for instance, I gave the concierge staff a large box without a cover, with a filigreed brass tree sticking out of it. I’d bought this at a crafts shop in Kimberley, the capital of Northern Cape, and two plastic bags containing an assortment of African wood figurines from Long Street in Cape Town.

I needed a way to transport the results of my haphazard shopping back to Asia, and I’d run out of luggage space. Unfazed, the concierge took everything off my hands and delivered back to me a new and neat box with a handle on it, and “fragile” stickers all over. They’d even written my name on the box so that I didn’t have to do this myself

HOW TO SOLVE A PROBLEM

Then, somewhere in this short and busy day, my laptop computer became infected with a virus that wiped out all my communication lines. I couldn’t even go online, just when I had so many emails to send out before the long flight back to Asia.

Distraught and helpless, I took my computer down to the reception and handed it to them. I knew my laptop inside out, but even I could not get it back to normal. It was really wishful thinking to believe that a good hotel can fix everything, but there I was, standing in front of the hotel staff with my broken computer, hoping for some magic.

Without even flinching, the ladies at reception said: “We’ll see what we can do.” So, off I went to look at tanzanite rings and then to enjoy dinner by the marina. Meanwhile, without my knowledge, the hotel’s IT manager, who had already finished work by then, had returned to the hotel just to see what he could do with my computer.

HAPPY ENDINGS IN AFRICA

By the time I finished my meal – it was about 11 PM by then – the hotel concierge was ready to deliver my computer back to me with the happy news that they got my computer to partially work. They brought an extra computer for me to work on as well, in case my computer still gave me trouble.

Needless to say, between these two computers, I fixed the problem from here, and everything went back to normal by the time I turned in for the night. In the grand scheme of things, the 17-year-old Cape Grace is relatively new; and yet, in this short span of time, it has earned a reputation especially for its good service. I now understood why.

TALE OF TWO FLAVORS

That evening, I planned to try Signal, which is Cape Grace’s award-winning fine dining restaurant. Unfortunately, the restaurant was booked for a private function, so we reserved a table in the hotel’s library instead, which has an enclosed terrace with large windows offering sparkling eye-level views of the marina and Table Mountain in the distance.

RESTAURANT WITH CAPE MALAY INFLUENCES

Malika van Reenen oversees the kitchens at Cape Grace; and this young and talented chef has a knack for infusing continental cuisine with Cape Malay influences. Some of her signature dishes include a bobotie-spiced springbok loin with spiced mango pickle and rooibos-scented lentil jus, and a grilled prawn with green risotto and spiced mango foam.

Dinner was wonderful; I stayed longer than planned, enjoying the best of Cape Town’s wines and food, along with this view unique to the Cape Grace.

\This was my last night in beautiful South Africa, and it was most befitting to spend it in this special hotel, reigning supreme between the mountains and the sea

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In South Africa recently, we stayed at the 12 Apostles Hotel and Spa in Cape Town. Finding ourselves in a mild state of inebriation after numerous drinks at the Leopard Bar, we were in the mood for anything. Fortunately, the casual mention of a gin-making class prompted us to book a session with Angus van Aarde, the resident mixologist.

It turned out that he was free that afternoon; and this class on the first day of our stay ended up being one of our most enjoyable experiences in South Africa. Moreover, we became gin lovers forever.

FORAGING AT 12 APOSTLES

Angus van Aarde, officially bar manager but in reality part chemist and part entertainer, met us at the bar. We had just enough time to change clothes. So from seasoned flyer wearing yoga pants and a black shirt on an overnight Singapore Airlines flight, I’d metamorphosed into fashionable traveler in a slinky dress. I was ready for sunset cocktails on the terrace of of one of the best bars in Cape Town.

“I hope those shoes are comfortable for walking,” Angus said, by way of greeting, glancing at my sandals. I’d brought these precisely because they seemed perfect for a stylish summer in South Africa.

HOW TO MAKE GIN

“Aren’t we making gin?” I asked, confused. He nodded and said, “But first we must gather the ingredients for the gin, and they’re all on the mountain.”

Backtracking out of the bar, we climbed the walking trail winding around the base of the 12 Apostles mountain range. “We’re going to pick some of these fine bush plants to flavor your gin,” Angus said, identifying the edibles and clipping the branches of random plants as we walked along.

DANCE LIKE NO ONE’S WATCHING IN CAPE TOWN

Foraging is surprisingly satisfying. Yes, paradise can be a rocky terrain of edible foliage. After 30 minutes I was skipping up and down the mountain in my cocktail outfit. There is something about picking one’s own food that fuels creativity because I’d suddenly found my zone.

While we were on the mountain, the Leopard Bar team created a scene out of Architectural Digest for the next part of our private master class.

The center table facing the outdoor terrace featured glasses, bottles of gin, and plates of dried fruits and leaves displayed like art, along with our freshly harvested herbs. To top things off, the sun was setting at exactly that time and a local band was playing feel-good songs; it made me think of the colorful houses of the Bo-Kap neighborhood on a summer weekend.   

Then we were off to botanical nirvana, right there in the Leopard Bar. To start us off, Angus pointed to several ingredients and said: “We usually put these in our gin. But actually you can create new flavors for yourself.” We spent a good hour engrossed in experimenting with flavors; I wanted to capture the feeling of this perfect day in a bottle to take back home.

FLAVORS OF SOUTH AFRICA

Our original gin mixes completed, we headed to the Azure restaurant for a gastronomic dinner cooked by Chef Christo Pretorius and his team. The restaurant is known for its inventive cuisine of local ingredients and stylish plating and we were not disappointed.

We began with a platter of Saldanha Bay oysters and yellowfin tuna tartare. The chef partnered these with intriguing side dishes such as spaghetti of pickled sea lettuce and edamame beans. The Azure sommelier was ready too with glasses of Bouchard Finlayson sauvignon blanc reserve 2018 to wash down our seafood.

Then we had ostrich smoked in rooibos tea and drizzled with buchu herb oil and blackberry vinaigrette. Next came a duck that was served three ways: crispy duck breast, duck leg confit, and roast duck broth accompanied by slow roasted tomatoes and broccoli.

LAMB FROM THE KAROO REGION

The finale was a superb lamb loin inspired by the arid Karoo region, with harissa barbecue glaze and turmeric couscous on the side.

“We had a wonderful dinner,” I said to the maitre’d as we walked out of the restaurant at the end. “This can easily become a hard habit to break.”

The maitre’d smiled and replied: “Well, please make sure to join us for breakfast then. The weekend breakfast at 12 Apostles is a beloved Cape Town tradition.”

WEEKEND BRUNCH AT AZURE RESTAURTANT 

Intrigued, we heeded his suggestion and started our Saturday just like well-heeled locals in the know. When we reached the Azure restaurant, the terrace was already full save for a table in the shade because a local’s life here is meant to be lived under the sun. Fortunately, coming from bright lights and a big city, any table with a view was fine with us.

Table secured, we inspected the buffet, impressed by the feast that awaited us, including oysters in champagne buckets, plates of fresh berries, and sparkling wine to start. We had triples of everything and then we ordered Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon — our own beloved tradition for breakfast in every city we visit.

“We could make a tradition out of this, you know,” I said to my companion, without going into details because all at once I meant everything and anything, including the wonderful breakfasts, the movie nights at the hotel’s cozy theatre room, floating in the salt bath of the spa, and afternoons spent reading books by the pool. And until our next visit, we have our bottles of gin to remind us of this hotel by the sea in Cape Town.

Read more articles about traveling around Cape Town in Travelife Magazine.

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“This is a local favorite,” the waitress said, setting an elaborate stand of afternoon tea treats in front of us as we sat under the sun with a view of the Atlantic Ocean. She added: “Our chefs created originals — you won’t find these elsewhere.”

We had just landed in Cape Town that morning and from the airport we’d driven straight to the 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa for an early afternoon tea on the outdoor terrace without bothering to check in first.

SUMMER IN CAPE TOWN

The day was so fine and the ocean was calling out to us so we set aside the formalities for later. Also, we were eager to sit by the sea and to start our wonderful holiday at the edge of the world with a proper toast.

This was South Africa, after all, land of amazing nature and excellent wine, so drinks should always be within reach. Luckily a table was available; and soon flutes of sparkling wine and an ornate tray of treats arrived, just too beautiful to eat.

This experience, aptly named “Tea by the Sea” by the 12 Apostles came highly recommended and we were grateful we heeded someone’s advice.

AFTERNOON TEA AT THE 12 APOSTLES HOTEL & SPA

Even now, it gives me an adrenaline shot to write about this moment full of expectations at the very start of three amazing weeks in Africa. Everything was just perfect. The skies were clear and the sea was an intoxicating cerulean hue, and all around us were happy people celebrating something on a Friday at noon.

Perhaps they all had birthdays or anniversaries; or maybe Cape Townians do this all the time and need no excuses for a mid-day party ahead of the weekend. In any case, their joy was infectious, so by the time we’d put away our mobile phones, made the exuberant toasts and were ready to eat, I felt on top of the world in spite of the fact that I was geographically at the bottom of it.

AVOCADO SANDWICHES AT THE 12 APOSTLES

To break the ice between us and our elegant afternoon tea tray, from the tantalizing selections we chose the avocado sandwiches covered in crushed almonds. Perfectly formed, the initial mouthfuls of goodness left us wide-eyed with wonder.

The taste is simply impossible to describe; but we were in heaven and I’m sure the location had something to do with our elation as well.

We savored these rich finger sandwiches — crunchy on the outside and all mushy with avocado inside — as slowly as we could manage between sips of bubbly; and then we quickly ordered another round.

“Life is short and when else will we ever have these again?” My companion said, in the form of a rhetorical question. We both knew that I felt exactly the same way, and this is how we threw our calorie counts to the wind that afternoon at the 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa.

CLASSIC HOTEL BY THE SEA IN CAPE TOWN

There are many lovely places to stay in Cape Town, but the 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa is one of a handful that directly take you not only to a hotel of luxury, but also to a time of genteel and unrushed travel for a proper holiday. It’s a destination hotel full of quirks and personal touches; including winding corridors and narrow stairs that lead to picture-pretty landings.

Meanwhile, the interiors are about classic furniture, memorable art, stripes and flowery prints that create a country house atmosphere. Everything slowly grows on you so that eventually you feel like calling this hotel a home. Not a few guests return every year for this familiar and wonderful holiday.

DRIVING ALONG CHAPMAN’S PEAK

The main attractions are the ocean views, the famous 12 Apostles mountain range, and the nearby Chapman’s Peak Drive, one of the loveliest road trips in the world. These alone, along with the hotel’s wild garden of botanical, offer the perfect combination for down-time in Cape Town.

Here, you will wish for a book or sketchpad; or at least a playlist of your favorite music; once you sit down, you won’t want to get up, let alone go to the V&A Waterfront.

The need to have a busy sightseeing list will turn into a distant memory. Most guests at 12 Apostles purposely want to leave the world behind. So they end up enjoying what is in front of them instead of following the tourist trails around the city.

Read more about luxury hotels in South Africa in Travelife Magazine.

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On a recent visit to Bushman’s Kloof in the Cederberg Mountains of South Africa, we booked an afternoon of wellness treatments at their spa, recently chosen the best spa in Africa. Temping as it was to stay in and enjoy our beautiful private villa, the newly opened Cederberg House, the spa beckoned.

The spa of Bushman’s Kloof was recently chosen the best spa in Africa and the Indian Ocean — so how could I miss this? We booked the Bushman’s Kloof signature massage in the spa gazebo, which opened up to an old river bed of wild grass.

THE BEST SPA IN AFRICA

In this pretty cottage, two cheerful therapists performed the Bushman’s Kloof signature massage and successfully kneaded the knots out of our backs. We actually fell asleep because it was so relaxing.

After the massage was over, they gave us cups of Rooibos tea and left us to relax in the open-air terrace. It was surreal to be having wonderful spa treatments in the middle of the wilderness.

PICNIC LUNCH AT BUSHMAN’S KLOOF

Meanwhile Martin, our ranger, arranged a picnic lunch in a cave that was ten minutes away by jeep. By the time our treatment was over, it was noon and he was back at the spa, ready to drive us to a lagoon on the game reserve.

While we were having our spa treatments, he’d been busy setting up a canoe and two paddle boards on the water.

CANOEING IN AFRICA

When he stopped by the shore, we looked at him inquiringly; although it was already 1230 PM, we did not see any food.

“I thought you guys might want to go paddling on our lagoon first,” he said.

Read about a journey across South Africa on The Blue Train

Then he added: “If you follow the route to the right, you’ll find lunch waiting for you somewhere along the way.” 

I wasn’t convinced this was a good plan but I got in anyway. We paddled along with Martin waving us off encouragingly from the shore.

SURPRISE PICNIC ON SAFARI

I actually enjoyed paddling as it was easy in this lagoon without waves. Then, just as we entered a narrow canal and I was preparing myself for an hour of effort with the boat, we saw a beautiful picnic spread on a ledge. 

DELICIOUS FOOD AT BUSHMAN’S KLOOF

A large mat had been laid out with giant pillows. Also, from the water, I espied a silver bucket brimming with champagne, wines and juices. Upon making our way up to the spot, we enjoyed the wonderful spectacle of a quintessential South African picnic hamper, ready for photographs. 

We ate roast beef sandwiches, boiled eggs, salads and fruits, and a cheese plate. We even had a basket of assorted biltong. Not forgetting that I had a sweet tooth, Martin also included little pudding pots for dessert. This lovely picnic in the great outdoors truly delighted me.

In fact, we had so many wonderful travel experiences here. I guess this is why so many people from all over the world travel to the Cederberg Mountains, to stay at Bushman’s Kloof.

Bushman’s Kloof is a member of the Red Carnation Hotels and the Relais & Chateaux group. It’s considered one of the top wilderness retreats in Africa. You’re taken out of your own world. Then suddenly you find yourself in a place where nothing else really matters but your bliss.

Read more stories about spa treatments and outdoor adventures in South Africa in Travelife Magazine.

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On a #Travelife to Morocco, I went shopping in souks and climbed hills in the middle of the desert outside of Ouarzazate. I also bought a Moroccan Berber carpet and learned how to make a chicken tagine at the Palais Amani in Fes. On this trip, one of my best memories was a stay at the Palais Amani.

HOW TO GET TO THE PALAIS AMANI IN FES

To say that the Palais Amani underwhelms at the outset is an understatement. I still remember with not a little trepidation our arrival on the first of my two visits to Morocco last year. We’d driven from Rabat, the capital of Morocco, to the edge of the ancient town of Fez. 

We passed by the palace of the King and skirted the walls of the medina before alighting in a parking lot full of wheelbarrows of food and dry goods. There were also vehicles in various states of disrepair, and masses of people – from rambunctious teenagers playing ball games to old ladies hawking homemade sweets.

And then we had to trudge up a narrow alleyway used by donkeys and pockmarked with stones, entering this via a steep staircase sandwiched by a budget hostel with a television blaring on the top floor and an equally cheap-looking café serving the ubiquitous chicken tagine. This was the way to the Palais Amani.

A BEAUTIFUL RIAD IN FES

It wasn’t quite the setting I’d imagined for a stylish boutique hotel in exotic Fez. In fact, my companion had very clearly asked me with unhappy undertones, as we navigated an unpicturesque passageway and walked along an equally spartan corridor towards our destination: “What kind of hotel have you booked?”

WHAT LIES BEHIND

Fortunately, I chose to ignore this rhetorical question and to simply let the hotel I’d booked eventually speak for itself.

Like many of the best experiences of Morocco, the beauty of Palais Amani lies hidden behind its heavy wooden doors. A dozen steps past these doors inside was a lovely 600-square meter garden. 

This was palatial, considering we were inside the medina of Fez. It’s a setting of greenery, dancing fountains and intricately tiled walls. In fact, the entire riad spoke  of a graceful past as the well-loved home of a prosperous family.

Palais Amani is the biggest authentic riad in Fez. But it’s also charming in an intimate way. I was instantly enchanted by the low-key and easy elegance of this hotel.

UNIQUE HOTEL ROOM IN FEZ

Our room was very interesting, as well. I’m sure it was the best suite in the riad because it occupied one whole wing of the second floor. We entered via a living room into a bedroom.

The bedroom had two separate dressing rooms and five large floor-to-ceiling windows with French-style balustrades that overlooked the garden. The bathroom was in a lovely room that was as large as a home in Fez itself.

LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT IN MOROCCO

It was definitely love at first sight, for me and this suite. We spent many happy days here at Palais Amani, discovering the best attractions in Fez. This is the kind of city one either loves or hates, and I loved it.

A major UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s a busy jumble of dark corners and nearly 10,000 alleyways. Most of the alleys are chaotic by day, and almost deathly quiet at night. There are  no in-betweens. But if you are charmed by this city of contrasts that is still stuck in time somewhere between the 13th and 15th centuries, this feeling about Fez will stay with you forever like an image from a fairytale.

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Read about the new MGallery in Kyoto

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Of the four lodges, Bush Lodge is the one most suitable for family safari experiences.

GETTING TO SABI SABI

The Pilatus jet flew from Johannesburg to the air strip of the private game reserve. In a little over an hour, we’d landed and our ranger Michael was driving us to Bush Lodge.

I knew this routine quite well as I’d already been at Sabi Sabi two years ago. I still remember how we’d seen giraffe and zebra from the airstrip. And from that instant, I’d become enamored with the safari experience.

Sabi Sabi Game Reserve

SEEING THE BIG 5 IN SOUTH AFRICA

This time, we were even luckier. Within the first 15 minutes, we’d seen the Big 5. And this was such a shock to us that even Michael could not contain his surprise. “We can go home now,” I’d teased him; for spotting the Big 5 is the ultimate objective of most safari goers.

But, of course, we were here to stay. A group of us had flown to Africa to bring our children on their first safari; and for this special trip, I’d chosen two famous game reserves within the world-famous Kruger National Park because they offered excellent programs for children.

THE SABI SABI SAFARI EXPERIENCE

The Sabi Sabi Game Reserve is considered one of the best safari experiences in the world. Among its four lodgings, Bush Lodge is the only one that accepts young visitors.

Bush Lodge is a sprawling contemporary camp with spacious and well-designed public facilities. It also includes a 1920s-inspired living room and a covered terrace where you can watch animals approach a watering hole.

There’s also a child-friendly dining restaurant that serves buffet meals. If the weather is fine, dinner is outdoors in an enclosed area with a big bonfire in the middle.

As with Sabi Sabi’s more intimate adults-only camps, service is conducted flawlessly. Additionally, you can always expect that friendly South African vibe.

FAMILY SAFARI EXPERIENCES AT SABI SABI

However, for families on safari, the piece de resistance of Bush Lodge is a large compound named the Elefun Center. This is probably the most well-equipped and best-maintained children’s center in a safari camp.

Complete with coloring books and personalized materials, it functions as a school, a daycare, and a creative place for young travelers. And it definitely offers parents significant and much-needed “me” time.

It also has its own dedicated “school” building, a secure outdoor play area and a large playground. And its walls are filled with the happy scribbles and colorful hand prints of the young travelers from all over the world.

CHILDREN ON SAFARI IN AFRICA

There is also a Junior Tracker program for children from ages 4 to 8, and the Junior Ranger program for ages 9 to 12. Bushveld-themed educational and entertainment activities can include specially-planned children’s game drives, games, contests, and walks and talks on animals, bugs and birds, tracking, and map-reading.

Children can be dropped off after breakfast for a morning session, and then again after lunch for an afternoon session, to be picked up just in time for the late afternoon game drives.

WONDER WOMAN AT WORK

When we were there, the Elefun Center was manned by an energetic young lady who taught the children to swing on a zipline, decorate bags, make animals out of paper cups, and even how to spell correctly.

Single-handedly, she ticked off everything on the wish list of the kids and their parents, with a good balance of age-appropriate children’s games, outdoor fun, crafts and school lessons.

Wild animals at the game reserve

The Elefun Center enables an excellent balance of activities for families, including enough time for mom and dad to relax, enjoy a leisurely afternoon tea or a morning of spa treatments between meals and drives.

This is exactly what I did, taking advantage of several free mornings to sample the offerings at the spa of Bush Lodge just before sitting down to a long lunch of salads and kebabs with everyone.

It’s a testament to the game reserve’s success that everyone in our group wanted to do a re-run next year – including the parents.

With the Elefun Center as an anchor – or more accurately, as a lifeline – we all realized that a safari with children need not be stressful after all. There were long faces everywhere as we reluctantly said “See you again soon” – not goodbye – to our new friends at the wonderful Sabi Sabi Game Reserve.

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